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JoshTheStampede posted:Scale75 by a country mile. Vallejo Model Air makes great silvers but trash golds. I hate, hate, hate the PP silvers and steel I've been using. They are lumpy and have garbage coverage. How noticeable is the difference between them and VMA? And are Scale75 silvers even better than VMA silvers? Edit: They also seem harder on my brushes than normal paints. KPC_Mammon fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Apr 13, 2016 |
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Apr 13, 2016 20:07
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Quick question, I want to try an aged terra cotta warrior look on some those AoS Stormcast Eternals to see if that and a little scalpel work can improve the models a bit. Would it make sense to use Agrellan Earthshade or Devlan Mud with a little color to get that aged and cracked clay look?
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Apr 13, 2016 20:15
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Macdeo Lurjtux posted:Quick question, I want to try an aged terra cotta warrior look on some those AoS Stormcast Eternals to see if that and a little scalpel work can improve the models a bit. Would it make sense to use Agrellan Earthshade or Devlan Mud with a little color to get that aged and cracked clay look? You could paint them in a terracotta orangey-brown mix then do a few single direction very light drybrushes of a pale grey/white mix to give them a faded dusty look, by very light I mean an almost empty brush and just dust the model in the same direction a few times. If it looks bad hit the whole thing with a glaze of the original colour.
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Apr 13, 2016 20:18
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Do Scale75 paints only come in sets or am I just looking in the wrong places?
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Apr 13, 2016 20:28
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sassassin posted:Do Scale75 paints only come in sets or am I just looking in the wrong places? Wrong places. But it does seem harder to find them individually outside of Europe. And even in Europe a lot of stores only sell a limited range. Even the official store sells a limited range compared to third parties... kind of weird. e. TTerrible posted:Quoting myself now that compressor chat is happening. I have that exact compressor heading my way, good tip. Mango Polo fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Apr 13, 2016 |
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Apr 13, 2016 20:39
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sassassin posted:Do Scale75 paints only come in sets or am I just looking in the wrong places? I've bought them individually in the UK from element games. All the US sites I've looked on seem to carry either the sets or none at all 
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Apr 13, 2016 21:46
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richyp posted:I've bought them individually in the UK from element games. Cool. If my old washes have dried out I'll be fuming.
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Apr 13, 2016 21:53
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KPC_Mammon posted:I hate, hate, hate the PP silvers and steel I've been using. They are lumpy and have garbage coverage. How noticeable is the difference between them and VMA?
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Apr 13, 2016 22:54
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Mango Polo posted:I have that exact compressor heading my way, good tip. It is really good. My next thing is to cut bitumen sound deadening sheet to match the shape of the metal casing and stick it on the inside.
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Apr 14, 2016 00:46
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Hey everyone. Haven't posted here in a while due to life getting in the way of hobby. I recently bought into Malifaux and decided to try my hand at doing flames; something I have never really done before.. Sorry for the links instead of imbedded images as my computer isn't working so I have go through the imgur app on my phone. As always comments and criticism is welcome http://i.imgur.com/UqGwM8D.jpg http://i.imgur.com/63gxRKr.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FGcwovP.jpg Next guy on the chopping block http://i.imgur.com/6QmQiPj.jpg
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Apr 14, 2016 04:52
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This one of yours is my favorite, just because of the hero pose: Your painting has really come a long way since you started to focus on it. Fire is hard to do right, but those flames look just great. I think you can push the highlights more if you want on the other model, but this one has the sweet spot IMO.
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Apr 14, 2016 06:27
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krushgroove posted:Any 80's kids here? I'm on the waiting list for the restock.
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Apr 14, 2016 15:37
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How would you guys do something like this? I want to challenge myself and make something neat like this, but have never had the patience for tedious line work before. Would you just start with a black base and then sketch the lines with a dark grey and work up from that? I know there was a rather famous version of this done many years ago for an Eldar transport that just had an amazing Giger style all over it.
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Apr 14, 2016 17:55
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Chill la Chill posted:How would you guys do something like this? I want to challenge myself and make something neat like this, but have never had the patience for tedious line work before. Would you just start with a black base and then sketch the lines with a dark grey and work up from that? I know there was a rather famous version of this done many years ago for an Eldar transport that just had an amazing Giger style all over it. I haven't got the skill or patience to try something like that but if I did I'd be tempted to start with grey primer, ink in the outlines then wash the model with Dark Blue/Black depending how dark you want the base then use the now barely visible outlines to paint in the details. Build up the bone colour from dark to light and then touch up errors and paint in the darker areas with a really dark grey or black.
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Apr 14, 2016 17:59
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My guess would be to paint it like the bone lines on Tyranid plates, start black and then build up thin layers of color blending darker and darker and receding each time you do so it builds up a gradient, then finally go over it with bright white on a very fine detail brush and use thin fast flicking strokes along the edges to give it those fringes. I'm still learning to paint 'nids though 
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Apr 14, 2016 18:03
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Is there a conversion chart out there for Citadel and Team Yankee paints?
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Apr 14, 2016 19:18
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Really new to this so any advice is welcome. Working my way through Misaki's crew. Shang  Ototo  Torakage   
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Apr 14, 2016 20:37
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Any recommendations for stripping primer off of Privateer Press's "restic" models? Edit: Found the answer. Simple Green or Purple Power. Floppychop fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Apr 15, 2016 |
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Apr 15, 2016 00:18
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My Iron Warriors got featured on GW's official flickr feed today: https://www.flickr.com/groups/gamesworkshop/pool/ Not really painting news, but it still made me feel good
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Apr 15, 2016 02:27
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Those shields are pretty awesome.
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Apr 15, 2016 02:49
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BULBASAUR posted:My Iron Warriors got featured on GW's official flickr feed today: I was gonna ask which ones were yours because I don't know what Iron Warriors look like but goddamn is that weathering a dead giveaway
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Apr 15, 2016 03:06
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lemonadesweetheart posted:Really new to this so any advice is welcome. Working my way through Misaki's crew. Your Shang and Tokarage look pretty rad. I might have picked out the buttons/rivets (I had no clue what they were either) on Ototo's helm.
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Apr 15, 2016 03:59
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Floppychop posted:Edit: Found the answer. Simple Green or Purple Power.
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Apr 15, 2016 13:32
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Cross post from the oath thread:Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete! The marble looks pretty good, if I do say so myself, but mostly if you're 5cm away. At normal viewing distance it becomes a muddy blur, so I guess I'll save it for display pieces if I ever do something like that.
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Apr 15, 2016 15:08
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There's a video on warhamTV that has a really cool marble effect, pretty different approach from yours it looks like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0pGumGvczc That terrain looks pretty good though.
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Apr 15, 2016 16:04
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I was trying to make scale appropriate marble, since I usually think that the pattern in the kind of marble that that guy is painting is too big for the scale. But I'll say that the more 'coarse' pattern works better, simply because you can see what it's supposed to be at a glance. I guess I'll try to find a happy medium between the two. Edit: The way he makes it is the same way I've done it when restoring really old stuff, right down to the brush and pattern size. That's probably why I consider it too big for 28mm models; It's real human sized. Electric Hobo fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Apr 15, 2016 |
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Apr 15, 2016 16:19
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Need some advice and hard criticism on this guy:   
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Apr 16, 2016 01:27
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Phi230 posted:Need some advice and hard criticism on this guy: Okay, what is your plan for a paint scheme and do you have any metallics, washes, or weathering effects to use? In all but that last photo it looks like the entire was painted with 2-3 colors, tops. You need to make the details pop using highlighting and different colors for different components. The venting mesh, for instance, could pretty easily be made a metallic silver and maybe dirty it for an exhaust effect. A solid wash and then re-highlight would do this some good. Get the edges lined with a slightly brighter green, as well as differentiating various parts with other colors. Items like the spotlight should be gone over with a solid color and the edges highlighted. It depends on how much work you want to do, but there's honestly a lot of room for additions/improvements. The overall paint thickness/color looks good, you just need to work on details to keep it from looking too "samey."
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Apr 16, 2016 01:49
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I do have some metallics and washes, yes. This end result was after 2 washes and drybrushing edges to try and make a weathering effect. I'm sure I need to highlight, I did have concerns about the sameyness even after I did the washes/drybrushing. Before the thing looked like a plastic army man piece or something. Problem with getting different colors is that green I used is actually a mix of white and light green so I'll experiment with that. I was gonna paint the gun a dark grey too maybe that would do some good.
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Apr 16, 2016 01:58
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Phi230 posted:I do have some metallics and washes, yes. This end result was after 2 washes and drybrushing edges to try and make a weathering effect. I'm sure I need to highlight, I did have concerns about the sameyness even after I did the washes/drybrushing. Before the thing looked like a plastic army man piece or something. Problem with getting different colors is that green I used is actually a mix of white and light green so I'll experiment with that. I was gonna paint the gun a dark grey too maybe that would do some good. Are you watering down the washes? It may be the lighting but it looks very light, even in corners and details where a wash should define edges and textures. As for the paint, just get your proper mix for your standard green color and then add a bit more white for a highlight color--shouldn't be too bad if you've mixed it to match a few times already.
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Apr 16, 2016 02:01
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PierreTheMime posted:Are you watering down the washes? It may be the lighting but it looks very light, even in corners and details where a wash should define edges and textures. As for the paint, just get your proper mix for your standard green color and then add a bit more white for a highlight color--shouldn't be too bad if you've mixed it to match a few times already. Ill retouch the basecoat and add new color to some details, wash and highlight and see how that turns out. How do you suggest I weather it? Ive just been drybrushing edges with a dusty color
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Apr 16, 2016 02:11
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Phi230 posted:Ill retouch the basecoat and add new color to some details, wash and highlight and see how that turns out. That depends on how you plan to base it. Personally I'm not a huge fan of powders and other special effects but I know a lot of people like them. The most I typically go for is a mud effect if I do a murky base design by adding some water effect into the colors I used for the mud and working in some debris material. It really depends on how complicated you want to make it. For a lot of my models, especially when I'm painting 30+ of them, I just saw base them plainly to make the models speak for themselves. Edit: Totally not a tank but the best example I have at the moment:  I did the feet and other lower bits with some of the Martian effect in a 50/50 water mix to give it a dusty look and I think it turned out okay. Not powdered good, but good enough for my low standards. PierreTheMime fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Apr 16, 2016 |
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Apr 16, 2016 02:16
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Oh im not gonna base the tanks just my infantrt
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Apr 16, 2016 02:34
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Chill la Chill posted:How would you guys do something like this? I want to challenge myself and make something neat like this, but have never had the patience for tedious line work before. Would you just start with a black base and then sketch the lines with a dark grey and work up from that? I know there was a rather famous version of this done many years ago for an Eldar transport that just had an amazing Giger style all over it. Sketch with a pencil then just paint the details on. Just be aware that pulling this sort of thing involves a more diverse set of skills compared to 'regular' miniature painting. Can you paint on canvas/paper? If you can then this is merely translating those skills and using the miniature as your canvas. If you've only ever known miniature painting I would suggest you practice a bit on paper first - the linework will be the easiest. Freehanding the skull on if you don't have any experience painting 2D will be difficult - try and get a reference image and copy that.
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Apr 16, 2016 14:01
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Z the IVth posted:Sketch with a pencil then just paint the details on. I used to do watercolor and pencil sketching regularly but haven't enjoyed freehanding on minis that often because of the curved areas. Thanks for the pro-tip about sketching with a pencil though. Never thought of that. I just used a permanent marker to outline my graffiti-laden space truck before:  
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Apr 16, 2016 18:03
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Welp I think that's officially the best XWangs model I've seen. Got a fleet of slam sector renegades or just the one?
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Apr 16, 2016 18:17
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Chill la Chill posted:I used to do watercolor and pencil sketching regularly but haven't enjoyed freehanding on minis that often because of the curved areas. Thanks for the pro-tip about sketching with a pencil though. Never thought of that. I just used a permanent marker to outline my graffiti-laden space truck before: Is that Bossk's ship? I didn't expect him to get big into spice, but it wouldn't surprise me what with the crowd he hangs out with.
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Apr 16, 2016 18:32
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It's Bossk's hound's tooth and it's the only one of its kind. I'm doing a basic magma pattern on a U-boat (with future plans on making the cylindrical portion a dragon and the flat areas a rocky countryside) as well as different schemes on others but I wouldn't call any of them as part of a "scrunt fleet" per say. 
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Apr 16, 2016 20:04
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I've been scooping up models on ebay I intend to paint and rebase. The OP has good information on stripping paint, but some of these resin and metal models are glued to the base. Is there a magic chemical I can use to separate them, or do I need to destroy the base? Worst case is a Deathripper which has been detached from the base in shipping, except for a single toe.
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Apr 16, 2016 20:28
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Serenade posted:I've been scooping up models on ebay I intend to paint and rebase. The OP has good information on stripping paint, but some of these resin and metal models are glued to the base. Is there a magic chemical I can use to separate them, or do I need to destroy the base? Worst case is a Deathripper which has been detached from the base in shipping, except for a single toe. Metal/Resin means they were superglued. I've heard success stories of people leaving superglued models in the freezer overnight which causes the bond to go brittle making it possible to pull them apart.
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Apr 16, 2016 20:30
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