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Anyone else listen to 360 Woodworking podcast and having trouble with it? Suddenly won't play on my phone, just a loading error message. I checked, it's still free.
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Apr 16, 2016 18:10
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New jointer day It's ridiculously large, and while parallelogram bed machines are great, holy hell they take even longer to set up the first time. Also I still haven't bought a bandsaw.
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Apr 16, 2016 21:25
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Drying wood/sticker question. I was digging through the scrap wood at Lowes and found several scrap sheets of exterior grade 3/4" plywood, all about 40" x 4'. Naturally I took them. There's a warning stamped on it for the State of California, blah blah blah titanium dioxide and wood dust may cause cancer. My question is, can I rip these into 1" strips and use them as stickers or do I risk staining or damaging my slabs?
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Apr 16, 2016 22:26
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MetaJew posted:
I think that's very likely what would happen, and the stain isn't skin deep. Talk about sticker shock, you don't want it. If you have some scraps of the same lumber you had milled, (surely you do), use that.
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Apr 16, 2016 22:29
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I don't. The tree was cut down and hauled away several weeks ago, save for the 8' log that I had milled. Can I go buy and rip some 1x4 pine furring strips or do something else?
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Apr 16, 2016 22:44
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MetaJew posted:I don't. The tree was cut down and hauled away several weeks ago, save for the 8' log that I had milled. Can I go buy and rip some 1x4 pine furring strips or do something else? Pine is pretty neutral, but maybe do some research.
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Apr 16, 2016 22:53
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MetaJew posted:I don't. The tree was cut down and hauled away several weeks ago, save for the 8' log that I had milled. Can I go buy and rip some 1x4 pine furring strips or do something else? Your slabs were cedar, right? Kiln dried Doug Fir would be fine, and if you're storing the wood indoors and it's not literally soaking wet, most wood won't cause sticker stain under normal circumstances (excepting oak, and anything else with high tannin content). Using the same species is definitely good practice if you can, but the stickers need to be dry. The cause is high moisture for long periods of time/slow drying in warm temperatures. Wet stickers can cause it too, much to the dismay of bandsaw mill owners who think they're immune to sticker stain when they rip stickers from their own offcuts and still have problems. The best practice is to sticker the pile, and after about a week, scoot the stickers an inch or so away from their original spot. If it's really wet and you have the space, its best to let the slabs sit on edge or on end for a few days to let the surface moisture dry up a little before stacking. I personally use 3/4" PVC pipe ripped in half, or decent construction grade KD fir.
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Apr 16, 2016 23:33
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It's a species of elm known as "cedar elm". I'll see about buying some kiln dried fur or something similar. They're currently stacked in my shed, so they're out of the weather but since that also means they're not exposed to wind or a fan I might be doomed.
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Apr 16, 2016 23:53
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I need to build some outdoor planter boxes that'll contain herbs. It'll be torn down after 2 years, max. Untreated pine with an outdoor finish should suffice, right?
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Apr 17, 2016 05:36
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Are local companies better for sourcing not hosed up wood and plywood than the chain stores? It's past absurd here lately, even some of the supposedly kiln dried lumber at lowes is warped as gently caress.
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Apr 17, 2016 05:40
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Parts Kit posted:Are local companies better for sourcing not hosed up wood and plywood than the chain stores? It's past absurd here lately, even some of the supposedly kiln dried lumber at lowes is warped as gently caress. Absolutely. Find an actual lumber yard. Chain stores are literally the worst place to buy wood. I would rather shop online.
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Apr 17, 2016 06:40
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Onion Knight posted:I need to build some outdoor planter boxes that'll contain herbs. It'll be torn down after 2 years, max. Or cedar fence pickets with some 2x2s or 2x4s for the corners. I built some for herb boxes and they are going on their 4th year now.
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Apr 17, 2016 06:49
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I would second the cedar fence pickets. I get the 1x6ish dog eared ones and slice the dog-ear part off - one key thing there is to make sure that you pick out ones that don't have any splits on that end. They don't exactly make those out of the highest quality lumber.
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Apr 17, 2016 13:39
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I'm building a cupboard for a friend of mine. Due to budget constraints, I'm building it out of 18mm particle board. Judging by what the internet says, we've either thrown out 14,50 for a sheet of particle board, or we should just dowel it together, or just glue'n'screw. In the end the finished cupboard will be anchored to the wall. Now I am wondering is it really better to dowel instead of screw? I just want the stronger solution. Looks aren't important as the cupboard will be painted on the inside and covered in 3mm birch ply on the outside.
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Apr 17, 2016 15:14
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Estate sale, new tool day! I found a Stanley #4, a Stanley #78, a really long jack plane (not sure how to identify it, it's all wood body and I'm not super experienced), a hand drill, and some chisels. The #78 has a spare chipbreaker/iron and an additional blade. Now to restore them. Any blatant no-no's out there? I was thinking of getting some of the rust off with WD-40. I now need a larger set of sharpening stones, as the jack plane blade is wider than the ones I have. Any tips would be appreciated.
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Apr 17, 2016 17:38
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Cannon_Fodder posted:
Everyone has their own method, but I usually go with 000 steel wool and 3-in-1 oil. It can take the rust off while not damaging anything, so long as you're gentile.
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Apr 17, 2016 19:11
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WD40 and a wire brush + 80-120 grit sand paper.
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Apr 17, 2016 19:51
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Finished up a cherry nightstand for my wife.  
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Apr 17, 2016 19:59
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Just finished a walnut dresser. I kind of hate doing drawers now, although by the end I could bang them out pretty quick. 
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Apr 17, 2016 22:09
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My sis just bought a house that was built around 1610-ish. It's been renovated and partly rebuilt (multiple times I guess, last time around 30 years ago) but lots of the old wooden structure is still visible, thought some of you might enjoy:     
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Apr 17, 2016 23:20
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Tim Thomas posted:Just finished a walnut dresser. I kind of hate doing drawers now, although by the end I could bang them out pretty quick. You just created an heirloom. Go to any place that sells an actual walnut dresser like that (not veneer) and you'd be lucky to get it for under $1000.
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Apr 18, 2016 00:51
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Blistex posted:You just created an heirloom. Go to any place that sells an actual walnut dresser like that (not veneer) and you'd be lucky to get it for under Fixed that for you... the cheap furniture store near us sells dressers for 500-800 and they are press board.. I doubt $200 gets you solid wood.
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Apr 18, 2016 12:54
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Tim Thomas posted:Just finished a walnut dresser. I kind of hate doing drawers now, although by the end I could bang them out pretty quick. Yeah this is ridiculously nice. I'm just finishing up a black walnut picture frame and I love the way that wood looks oiled. What did you do to finish it?
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Apr 18, 2016 14:37
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Finished up a cherry nightstand for my wife. Looks great! Love those feet. Tim Thomas posted:Just finished a walnut dresser. I kind of hate doing drawers now, although by the end I could bang them out pretty quick. Hot drat. What did you use to finish that? edit: beaten but inquiring minds want to know
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Apr 18, 2016 14:37
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Scraped out the tear out, sanded everything 120-150-220 with orbital, 320 with finishing. Two coats of 50%watco Danish natural-50%linseed oil Then two coats of citrus paste wax. The cool thing I like about the paste wax is that it fills in the pores and makes the grain lighter than the wood, so it's an inverse of what you would usually see in walnut, but it tends to just look aged instead of modern, if that makes sense. It also hides the sloppiness of the dovetails joining the sides to the top, the stretchers to be sides, and the sliding dovetail attaching the centre panel to the top. I like how this came out a lot more than my bed, which was a wash of shellac, dye to tone, gel stain, poly. That has a much more uniform color but it took out a lot of the grain structure.
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Apr 18, 2016 14:46
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Finished up a cherry nightstand for my wife. This owns. How tall did you make it? Also, what's the foot height from floor to bottom of the cabinet? I need to make two dressers and none of my sketching has had the right proportions yet, but this looks bang on.
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Apr 18, 2016 14:48
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Finished up a cherry nightstand for my wife. Very nice.
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Apr 18, 2016 15:07
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Tim Thomas posted:Just finished a walnut dresser. I kind of hate doing drawers now, although by the end I could bang them out pretty quick. Very nice too! How my BF of walnut?
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Apr 18, 2016 15:08
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45 board feet of walnut, plus a half sheet of really nice bookmatched veneer plywood for the front panels. Interior wood was hickory sides, beech fronts and backs, and cherry ply bottoms.
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Apr 18, 2016 15:26
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To answer my own question about particle board construction. A Romanian research paper shows that dowels make the stronger joint. However because I don't have nearly enough clamps that size, I've used plain old self countersinking screws. Drill a 3mm (screws core thickness) pilot hole, then enlarge it in the face piece to 4.5mm, and screw things down with the driver clutch set to 5Nm. So all that is left now is to wait for glue to dry, fit the shelves, and cover the outside in 3mm birch ply. I'll post some pictures when it's done.
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Apr 18, 2016 16:21
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Nice work on the projects guys.
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Apr 18, 2016 17:43
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Looking for a bit of advice on a construction project, and hoping not to end up in the crappy construction thread... I need to build a rack to hold a pair of kayaks up against the wall of my house. It is a mobile home, and local building codes state that I cannot attach anything to the structure of the house - so anything I build must be free standing. I also cannot pour concrete foundations, as directly underneath where I need to put this is the power and gas lines that feed my house. I am planning on placing the structure on a set of deck blocks, placed on a 12" deep gravel bed. Here is the frame I am thinking of building, with and without the boats mounted. I am planning on putting plywood sheeting on the roof and both ends, but would prefer to avoid putting it on the back unless I have to to prevent the whole frame from racking.   And then the rack up against my house. I have about 6' between the back wall of the house and the fence, and the rack will be about 2.5' wide. This should give me enough space to remove the boats.  I am also intending to attach a tarp as a front curtain to keep the sun / rain / snow off the boats. Any input on whether this whole thing will work? JimbobDobalina fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Apr 18, 2016 |
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Apr 18, 2016 19:55
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FYI, they do make kayak hanging strap rack things out of webbing, that's just a strap of webbing that hangs down the side of whatever, so you might be able to get around the code by doing that instead. I mean yeah, it's something "attached," but on a pretty superficial level, about the same as hanging a wind chime. But maybe that's not allowed either, who knows. Those strap hangers are super handy and easy to use, though, if that's an option. Won't help with protecting the boats from the elements, of course. And does nothing to answer your actual question, but I just thought I'd throw it out there as a thing. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Webbing-Boat-Hanger-Strap-Set/dp/B00BSYM7WQ?ie=UTF8&keywords=kayak%20hanging%20strap&qid=1461006005&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6
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Apr 18, 2016 20:00
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I'm no help on this, all I am hearing is Billy Joel going Kayak-rack-ack-ack-ack-ack you oughta know by now.
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Apr 18, 2016 20:06
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Thoughts, in order: 1) The CG on that thing is going to be super high and will probably fall over if you blow on it. 2) You are going to need some sort of cross bracing in the back, if not plywood. 3) The base of that thing is going to rack badly. 4) Your rafters are spaced incorrectly. What's your snow load? You might want to go take a look at the latest ICA for deck building and check the requirements there, since what you've shown looks pretty underbuilt.
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Apr 18, 2016 20:32
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Avoiding studying for a midterm, went and made a little bird house from some scraps. The perch is some 3/16 in square stock that I heated with a torch and twisted. Used to do a lot of simple woodworking with my dad when I was young. Trying to get back into it and give me something to do with my spare time that isn't video games. Edit: phone posting, hope that image isn't too big
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Apr 18, 2016 20:51
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Tim Thomas posted:Thoughts, in order: 1/2" plywood sheathing should brace it and keep it from racking. The big concern IMO is the high center of gravity you mentioned. If you could strap it to the house somehow that would help a lot. But honestly I'd be inclined to go with Bad Munki's suggestion, and just wrap the kayaks in tarps while they're hung up. I honestly expect that the ban on attachments is for permanent things, not something you can remove with a screwdriver in five minutes.
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Apr 18, 2016 20:54
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JimbobDobalina posted:Any input on whether this whole thing will work? Honestly there is so much wrong with this that I can't even begin to fix it. Best bet is study up on stick frame construction and then go back to square one. There are outstanding shed building videos on youtube. This one might be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGbXFD1dlUQ
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Apr 18, 2016 21:28
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Deedle posted:To answer my own question about particle board construction. A Romanian research paper shows that dowels make the stronger joint. However because I don't have nearly enough clamps that size, I've used plain old self countersinking screws. Drill a 3mm (screws core thickness) pilot hole, then enlarge it in the face piece to 4.5mm, and screw things down with the driver clutch set to 5Nm. The other thing you can do is screw and glue everything, then take the screws out and drill the holes slightly bigger for dowels. That way you don't need big rear end clamps but you'll still get the strength needed.
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Apr 18, 2016 23:42
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Thanks guys.Tim Thomas posted:This owns. How tall did you make it? Also, what's the foot height from floor to bottom of the cabinet? I need to make two dressers and none of my sketching has had the right proportions yet, but this looks bang on. Thanks, very nice walnut dresser, what did you do for the drawer slides? The total height is 26" and the foot height (floor to bottom stretcher) is 3".
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Apr 19, 2016 00:07
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