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Geirskogul posted:I now have fumoto or ez-oil drain valves ready to put on all my cars next oil change. I have one of these and am awaiting some decent weather so I can install it.
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Apr 16, 2016 09:00
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Is there any issue with using an opened (as in, unsealed but capped) jug of coolant that has been sitting in a garage through 2 winters? I'll be doing a coolant flush next week, and just want to know how far I can stretch some of my old, unused fluids.Slavvy posted:If it's not too deformed/squashed (as in if the person who put it in didn't over-tighten the plug) it's totally fine, have seen squillions of korean cars drive away with the original one (customers are cheap cunts) and no problems. This is only the case if you have the alloy crush washer type and only if you've already put it back in and can't be bothered loving around putting a new one in which is understandable. If you're doing an impending oil change just buy one at a shop or something they're standardised and super cheap. The toyota one is trickier because they have that blue papery stuff on the outside but they're also reusable without hassle with the same rules applying.
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Apr 16, 2016 14:58
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melon cat posted:Is there any issue with using an opened (as in, unsealed but capped) jug of coolant that has been sitting in a garage through 2 winters? I'll be doing a coolant flush next week, and just want to know how far I can stretch some of my old, unused fluids Its fine as long as it's sealed well. And if your really worried pour it into a clear milk jug first to check it for debris and such. I have done this multiple times with coolant with no Ill effects. Except my kids thinking there's green juice in the garage and daddy is strange to keep to jugs of green juice. Which I tried to explain coolant to them but a five and three year old can't pay attention that long. Dude with the Mazda and a/c issues. You said it made it while turning. I would check your belt for the power steering. The stress of the a/c could have made the belt for the p/s all catty wompass. And trying doing more turns with the a/c on and see if it repeats or if you got lucky and it was a random piece of debris.
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Apr 16, 2016 16:05
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Slavvy posted:Wait you actually bought a veloster? Why? Not being sarcastic, genuinely don't understand. Under $20k new for 2016 r spec, b&m shifter is perfect, r spec has about 10-15whp more on dyno than VT, and more comfortable than a fiesta St inside. I have 3 2 seater cars. It's been good at autocross adding camber and tires
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Apr 16, 2016 17:53
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SouthsideSaint posted:Its fine as long as it's sealed well. And if your really worried pour it into a clear milk jug first to check it for debris and such. I have done this multiple times with coolant with no Ill effects. Except my kids thinking there's green juice in the garage and daddy is strange to keep to jugs of green juice. Which I tried to explain coolant to them but a five and three year old can't pay attention that long. Easy it's car juice for the car to drink. It makes people very sick but cars like it and cars can't drink people juice.
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Apr 16, 2016 18:42
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Had an accident which involved replacing the radiator on my 2015 Jeep Patriot, been a month or two since. I just noticed that the radiator fluid level is way down in the bottom of the tank (maybe an inch left in the bottom). It also looks suspiciously pink (2013 and newer switched from pink or orange HOAT fluid to orange or purple OAT fluid). I want to top it up and see if it's a leak or just underfilled from the collision repair place. But, I obviously don't want to mix the coolants, and I have no idea what the repair place put in there. I also am going to have a hell of a time siphoning it since it's way down in the bottom of the overflow tank. What do I do at this point? If I take it to a dealer can they check the fluid type somehow? Or just try to do it myself and compare the color against the service bulletins? I think I have some Tygon tubing I could probably siphon with...
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Apr 16, 2016 20:41
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Last week I posted about a noise coming from my Dakota... If anyone is interested I found the culprit. 
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Apr 16, 2016 22:16
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Paul MaudDib posted:Had an accident which involved replacing the radiator on my 2015 Jeep Patriot, been a month or two since. I just noticed that the radiator fluid level is way down in the bottom of the tank (maybe an inch left in the bottom). It also looks suspiciously pink (2013 and newer switched from pink or orange HOAT fluid to orange or purple OAT fluid). Half the dealerships out there don't know the difference between the coolants (though you're absolutely right about NOT wanting to mix them). I'd talk to the shop that did the work and find out what they used.
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Apr 16, 2016 23:27
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Christobevii3 posted:Under $20k new for 2016 r spec, b&m shifter is perfect, r spec has about 10-15whp more on dyno than VT, and more comfortable than a fiesta St inside. I have 3 2 seater cars. It's been good at autocross adding camber and tires Ok so it makes perfect sense at that price; here the veloster is priced squarely against WRX and the like so hardly any sell and they're considered a massive ripoff for the performance you get. But under 20k that is a hell of a lot of car!
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Apr 17, 2016 02:37
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Slavvy posted:Ok so it makes perfect sense at that price; here the veloster is priced squarely against WRX and the like so hardly any sell and they're considered a massive ripoff for the performance you get. But under 20k that is a hell of a lot of car! Where are you again? Even in Canada the base WRX is a decent amount more than the fully loaded Veloster. If you want comparably equipped, the Veloster is much cheaper (it's also less powerful and fwd but the price difference has to come from somewhere) Hyundai also has more attractive financing and incentives than Subaru from what I've seen.
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Apr 17, 2016 03:26
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Slavvy posted:Ok so it makes perfect sense at that price; here the veloster is priced squarely against WRX and the like so hardly any sell and they're considered a massive ripoff for the performance you get. But under 20k that is a hell of a lot of car! Yeah dude the turbo Veloster manual is like 30k + onroads, and the WRX is eight to ten grand more expensive. I mean, I'm pretty sure you're in Australia, right?
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Apr 17, 2016 03:32
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Slavvy posted:Are you buying some sort of broom-pishh and/or doriftu type car? A solid 50% of the cars in our city's 'Stolen Cars' Facebook page are people movers or Demios. I'm contemplating a stock Evo IV as a daily though, although it may become less of an issue as I could be moving near a train station and it can live in a garage while I'm at the office.
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Apr 17, 2016 04:08
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Slavvy posted:Ok so it makes perfect sense at that price; here the veloster is priced squarely against WRX and the like so hardly any sell and they're considered a massive ripoff for the performance you get. But under 20k that is a hell of a lot of car! Oh yeah lol. Veloster insurance is a 1/4 of a new wrx and 1/2 my 2007's 350z. No way in hell would i pay wrx money for one though. It is an economical fun car that has a decent after market. I just think of it as a bigger fiesta st that is comfortable.
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Apr 17, 2016 04:22
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Memento posted:Yeah dude the turbo Veloster manual is like 30k + onroads, and the WRX is eight to ten grand more expensive. I mean, I'm pretty sure you're in Australia, right? New Zealand, the respective distributors' sites list the manual turbo veloster as being 49,990 while the cheapest WRX is 38,990. Butt Wizard posted:A solid 50% of the cars in our city's 'Stolen Cars' Facebook page are people movers or Demios. I'm contemplating a stock Evo IV as a daily though, although it may become less of an issue as I could be moving near a train station and it can live in a garage while I'm at the office. The evo IV sucks though  at least compared to the models either side of it. They're cheap as chips nowadays I'll admit.
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Apr 17, 2016 04:32
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Slavvy posted:New Zealand, the respective distributors' sites list the manual turbo veloster as being 49,990 while the cheapest WRX is 38,990. My Corolla has done close to 300,000km and it's a question of what's available and what's cheap. I'd have loved a GTR, but not for $20K for one that's done over 100,000km.
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Apr 17, 2016 04:36
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bigperm posted:Last week I posted about a noise coming from my Dakota... If anyone is interested I found the culprit. Oh snap. Did the pad fuse to the drum sidewall somehow, or is it just chillin in there for the pic? Either way, awesome mechanical failure.
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Apr 17, 2016 05:19
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Butt Wizard posted:My Corolla has done close to 300,000km and it's a question of what's available and what's cheap. I'd have loved a GTR, but not for $20K for one that's done over 100,000km. Unironically an earlier accord euro R with decent tyres and shocks/springs. They're fun as poo poo and look nice (I am not A Honda Person). Worked with a guy who went from a minter to a clapped out rebuilt-300kw-yo STI coupe with a painted red intake manifold. I drove both, wanted to take the honda home with me. Blew my mind that they are, in fact, not terrible but actually really good and reasonably quick for a car I'd be happy driving to the shops in. 
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Apr 17, 2016 06:15
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Wasn't that sold as the Acura TSX in the US?
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Apr 17, 2016 07:12
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Im about to buy my first used car, a 2008 C6. What should I look out for in a high-mileage 10 year old V8? Should I hold off and wait for a single-owner car to come available? How do I know if its been well maintained?
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Apr 17, 2016 07:38
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Oh snap. Did the pad fuse to the drum sidewall somehow, or is it just chillin in there for the pic? Either way, awesome mechanical failure.
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Apr 17, 2016 13:50
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so I need to get new tires for an '87 supra to pass a safety and it came with okay tires and rims, but theyre old and leak probably and the tread is a little small. Should I just go to a scrapyard and grab some cheap tires/rims off another toyota just to pass the safety and put the old ones on or just look for some decent used tires and wait a little bit. I'm itching to drive it
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Apr 17, 2016 15:11
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2014 VW Golf. No sunroof (Everywhere I look this problem up on Google the first answer is "Your sunroof drain tube is clogged"). Rained overnight, this morning when I turned or hit the brakes water dripped on my foot. The floor board is all wet on the driver's side. What gives?
Imagined fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 16:04
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Hot Karl Marx posted:so I need to get new tires for an '87 supra to pass a safety and it came with okay tires and rims, but theyre old and leak probably and the tread is a little small. Should I just go to a scrapyard and grab some cheap tires/rims off another toyota just to pass the safety and put the old ones on or just look for some decent used tires and wait a little bit. I'm itching to drive it Why wouldn't you buy new tires, they probably aren't that expensive in a small size from 87
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Apr 17, 2016 16:40
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Imagined posted:2014 VW Golf. No sunroof (Everywhere I look this problem up on Google the first answer is "Your sunroof drain tube is clogged"). Rained overnight, this morning when I turned or hit the brakes water dripped on my foot. The floor board is all wet on the driver's side. What gives? My wife has a 2011 Golf and while the water problem hasn't been nearly that bad, she complained a few weeks ago about water dripping on her, when raining, from the top of the door. I checked out the weather stripping and the seals and they looked fine. I bought 8ft of 1/4" OD vinyl tubing from home depot and stuck it in between the weatherstripping and it's been perfect ever since. Check it out here Without knowing where your water is coming from, it might be worth trying (I only spent $4 on the hose).
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Apr 17, 2016 16:53
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Christobevii3 posted:Why wouldn't you buy new tires, they probably aren't that expensive in a small size from 87 because I'm not sure if I want to get larger rims or if I should just stick to the OEM specs, I'm probably going to make a thread when I get the car back from getting safetied and driven it around (summer just hit and I need to drive with the roof off) so I can ask questions and get feed back better but I just want it on the road first. I'm not even sure if the rims it has are any good or I might just put new tires on them
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Apr 17, 2016 18:24
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I don't really need my exhaust heat shield, right? I've got a rattle, and with the shape of the one that rusted through, I can't just wrap some hose clamps around it. It's between the pipe and the body. Please help me become The P.O.
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Apr 18, 2016 02:04
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Why not build a new shield out of some duct work metal or something. Probably cuts the rate of rust on your body down
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Apr 18, 2016 02:11
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1991 Honda CRX DX 4AT D15B2, new to me After a 5 minute drive in the rain the front left turn signal bulb was flickering intermittently with the car off. Later the same day (in the rain again) I pulled onto the road but had almost no power and got a CEL so I got off the road and killed it. It wouldn't turn over until it was jumped after which it idled fine, no CEL either. I was worried about driving it and had somewhere to be so I caught a ride and picked up the car later in the afternoon (at which point it was very sunny and no longer raining), it ran fine until I got it home though I kept it under 50mph. I haven't driven it anywhere since but I did burp the coolant and it idled fine throughout that. I am a complete Electric gremlin hunting tools and best practices?
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Apr 18, 2016 02:51
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Deeters posted:I don't really need my exhaust heat shield, right? I've got a rattle, and with the shape of the one that rusted through, I can't just wrap some hose clamps around it. It's between the pipe and the body. The person who owns the car ten years from now will probably need one but you certainly don't, just bin it.
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Apr 18, 2016 04:00
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Slavvy posted:Unironically an earlier accord euro R with decent tyres and shocks/springs. They're fun as poo poo and look nice (I am not A Honda Person). Worked with a guy who went from a minter to a clapped out rebuilt-300kw-yo STI coupe with a painted red intake manifold. I drove both, wanted to take the honda home with me. Blew my mind that they are, in fact, not terrible but actually really good and reasonably quick for a car I'd be happy driving to the shops in. I always liked the look of the BTCC Accords from the 90s, I'll keep an eye out. The dollar is making importing look pretty poo poo at the moment so I'll have to take a look at what's local.
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Apr 18, 2016 07:26
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Buy an R32gts-t with a fartpipe and chromes, fix everything under the skin while keeping the wheels and exterior the same, troll track days.
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Apr 18, 2016 08:17
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Hot Karl Marx posted:so I need to get new tires for an '87 supra to pass a safety and it came with okay tires and rims, but theyre old and leak probably and the tread is a little small. Should I just go to a scrapyard and grab some cheap tires/rims off another toyota just to pass the safety and put the old ones on or just look for some decent used tires and wait a little bit. I'm itching to drive it Are there places near you that do part worn tyres? There's loads in the UK, they legally need to have at least 4mm of tread which is more than enough for you to blat about on and decide what you want to do with the car. I have some on mine... £100 for all 4 so I can roll around and sort out any mechanical issues that pop up from getting it back on the road.
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Apr 18, 2016 09:07
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This is what the rear brake rotors on my 2003 Opel Vectra look like. The car has not been used much for most of the winter, only for about 100 km per month, but even then, that looks like a surprising amount of rust since passing inspection in October. Is this normal, especially as the front rotors look fine? 
a podcast for cats fucked around with this message at 09:17 on Apr 18, 2016 |
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Apr 18, 2016 09:15
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No, it's not normal. The wear is uneven. Chances are good the slider pins are stuck or the calipers themselves are just bad. Considering that's all just an NEAI ball of rust there I'd suggest the normal northeast solution: torch it all off and replace it. (seriously....rotors/pads/calipers.....and you'll probably break brake lines doing this so replace those too....that's a poo poo show....but a common one to me). Edit: hey....at least it's on the back, right?
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Apr 18, 2016 09:20
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Did you leave it parked in a salt lake over winter?
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Apr 18, 2016 09:23
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spog posted:Did you leave it parked in a salt lake over winter? Yes, pretty much. They salt the roads like crazy here and the roads are covered with salty snowmelt for at least 2-3 months in a row. Destroys boots too. Motronic posted:No, it's not normal. The wear is uneven. Yes, that's the rear. The front is smooth and shiny.
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Apr 18, 2016 09:34
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88h88 posted:Are there places near you that do part worn tyres? There's loads in the UK, they legally need to have at least 4mm of tread which is more than enough for you to blat about on and decide what you want to do with the car. I have some on mine... £100 for all 4 so I can roll around and sort out any mechanical issues that pop up from getting it back on the road. I think I might as well just get some nice summer tires, I talked to the mechanic yesterday and the rims seem fine (and go with the car). BF Goodrich G-force sport comp 2 looks like a good fit. Thankfully buddy had a bunch of spare hoses and extra set of brakes so the safety shouldn't be too expensive or long. The tires that are on it now are almost drag racing tires and any moisture on the road will make it lose traction so that's why they want me to change them out. The weather is too unpredictable here to safely keep those on.
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Apr 18, 2016 11:32
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I'm back with the 93 Volvo 850. It started off where it would crank but not start. I have since replaced the plugs (with the OE plugs even!), wires and camshaft position sensor which was throwing an intermittent signal code. I'm almost there. I turn the key and the engine cranks and the pistons start firing and the engine rumbles like it's about to start but it never quite catches and starts going on its own. Where am I now in the land of trouble-shooting?
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Apr 18, 2016 16:01
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MonkeyBot posted:I'm back with the 93 Volvo 850. It started off where it would crank but not start. I have since replaced the plugs (with the OE plugs even!), wires and camshaft position sensor which was throwing an intermittent signal code. I'm almost there. I turn the key and the engine cranks and the pistons start firing and the engine rumbles like it's about to start but it never quite catches and starts going on its own. Where am I now in the land of trouble-shooting? Check fuel pressure / fuel filter?
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Apr 18, 2016 16:12
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Bajaha posted:Check fuel pressure / fuel filter? I can definitely smell fuel and have checked the plugs and they are wet. Should I still check the pressure?
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Apr 18, 2016 17:26
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