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GobiasIndustries posted:By way of the Comcast rep. breaking my outside light yesterday my downstairs neighbor told me that she was "having massive IT problems" at work and was going to be working from home going forward apparently permanently (They were out re-wiring her half of the duplex). That's...gotta be a complete bullshit answer right? I can't think of a situation where 'IT' problems would be so bad at work that working from home would improve them. I and the rest of my team, along with most of the company, were once sent home to work from home one day when someone really hosed something up on the corporate network. So it can happen. Although how it lasts for more than a day or two I have no idea.
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Apr 15, 2016 21:05
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phosdex posted:For the couple of pfsense users here, 2.3 was released today. It has the fancy new modern, responsive ui. Updated to FreeBSD 10.3, dropped lighttpd for nginx, etc. It even has a tiny portion of code contributed by me. https://blog.pfsense.org/?p=2008 Something happened to IPSec routing, whilst I can do funky things like IPv4 tunnels over IPv6 nothing wants to actually go through the tunnel anymore (non-default gateway). The connection is made and rekeying and DPD works though 
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Apr 15, 2016 21:38
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My simple IPv4 only IPSec tunnel between two pfSense boxes is working perfectly.
Antillie fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Apr 16, 2016 |
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Apr 15, 2016 21:48
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Actually it worked for 24 hours after the upgrade and now is broken the day after. idk how to fix it, turn everything off and on again I guess,  (edit) Strongswan is being dumb. With IPv6 one side is sending UDP and the other ESP. MrMoo fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Apr 16, 2016 |
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Apr 16, 2016 01:40
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Is there any way to get graphs/statistics for long time periods (day, week, month, etc) out of my Edgerouter Lite? If there's no pre-packaged graphs of some sort, is there some source (besides scraping the web ui which is what I'll do as a last resort) I can query with code I write myself to generate my own graphs?
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Apr 16, 2016 03:06
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Thermopyle posted:Is there any way to get graphs/statistics for long time periods (day, week, month, etc) out of my Edgerouter Lite? I use vnstat for tracking basic usage, not sure if that's as detailed as you need. Keep in mind if you do set it up that upgrading the firmware tends to remove it (and the database), so make sure to back it up before doing upgrades.
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Apr 16, 2016 03:15
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Thermopyle posted:Is there any way to get graphs/statistics for long time periods (day, week, month, etc) out of my Edgerouter Lite? Setup SNMP read-only access on your router and graph it with Cacti or MRTG Also just for fun, the new UniFi Controller Alpha release interface looks really pretty  *edit* I have a new found respect for the "cloud managed" network ecosystem. Having the UniFi USG + switch + APs lets you see where everything is connected at a glance, along with utilization statistics. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Apr 16, 2016 |
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Apr 16, 2016 03:23
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Antillie posted:I and the rest of my team, along with most of the company, were once sent home to work from home one day when someone really hosed something up on the corporate network. So it can happen. Although how it lasts for more than a day or two I have no idea. Yeah the permanent nature of it is the part I'm confused about, it seems like the smart thing to do for the business would be to address the infrastructure rather than throwing up your hands and telling employees to go home.
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Apr 16, 2016 15:34
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TP-LINK TL-PA4010 Anyone got words on this? Looking to pick it up as I now need to move my desktop far from the router. Seems to be decent enough.
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Apr 16, 2016 20:39
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I have a pair I've used for the last couple years with no issue. I see 85 to 135 Mbps real world connectivity
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Apr 16, 2016 22:16
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skipdogg posted:I have a pair I've used for the last couple years with no issue. I see 85 to 135 Mbps real world connectivity That's good my Canadian home internet plan can reach 15MBps.
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Apr 16, 2016 22:27
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Femur posted:Woah, did not know you could do this? So you're saying i could buy something like this , and connect my downstairs router with computer upstairs? I've used them in my house and in the homes of two friends who had bad luck with PLAs.
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Apr 17, 2016 00:02
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tl;dr I want to set up OpenVPN or equally strong VPN on my shiny new router, but it seems completely different from setting it up on client devices. Does anyone run/have experience with a setup like this? And are there meaningful differences between a "router VPN" and a "client device VPN" (like OpenVPN client)? Last week I bit the bullet and ordered some Ubiquiti network equipment to play around with, and I managed to actually set it up, somehow. Cable modem (bridged) -> EdgeRouter Lite eth0 (eth0/WAN) over CAT5. EdgeRouter Lite eth0 over CAT5 (eth1/LAN1) <-> unmanaged switch over CAT5 EdgeRouter Lite eth0 over CAT5 (eth2/LAN2) <-> nothing yet. unmanaged switch (LAN1) <-> Unifi Controller desktop PC over CAT5. unmanaged switch (LAN1) <-> UAP-AC-LR over CAT5. UAP-AC-LR <-> tablets, phones, whatever. This is basically the extent of my home's very small networking needs, I guess. Now my wifi isn't horrible, full bars in the whole apartment, and my connection is pretty much fully utilized. Woo! It works, so there's no problem to solve as such, but I'm trying to take the opportunity to finally learn some network basics. Hence, I set a few additional goals for myself: 1 - Handle VPN via router instead of directly from my devices. 2 - Basic best-practices firewall. 3 - QoS rules that work as least as good as no rules. I'm pretty alright to start working on the firewall and QoS based on what I can find on Google, but it's hard to find help on the VPN. My connection is 150/15 U/D, and I currently connect to an external VPN I trust with the OpenVPN client directly from my devices. I'd like to centralize that as much as possible, but it seems like "configuring OpenVPN on my devices" doesn't really translate to "set up a VPN on my router" in any way. I've read some suggestions that an ERL can't handle 150mbps over OpenVPN for some reason, and I'm not qualified to evaluate whether the other types are worth spending time setting up (i.e., without knowing which exactly is best, I'd rather spend a little more money than go with second-best VPN protocol). halp
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Apr 17, 2016 12:39
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Zodium posted:tl;dr I want to set up OpenVPN or equally strong VPN on my shiny new router, but it seems completely different from setting it up on client devices. Does anyone run/have experience with a setup like this? And are there meaningful differences between a "router VPN" and a "client device VPN" (like OpenVPN client)? There are two types of VPNs; 1. Client to site - This is the type that generally applies to a home setting. It allows things like laptops and phones to create a secure tunnel to your LAN from somewhere else (hotel, coffee shop, ect...) so you can access the things on your LAN remotely in a secure manner. 2. Site to site - This type of VPN does not generally apply to a home setting. It creates a permanent always on tunnel between two LANs (generally offices) so users on each LAN can access things on the other LAN in a secure manner over the internet. The Edgerouter Lite has hardware acceleration for IPSec so I recommend that you use that. There is a very good walk through of how to setup an IPSec/L2TP client VPN on the Edgerouter Lite here. The OP has a link to a basic QoS guide for the Edgerouter Lite. If you used the wizard for the initial setup then you already have a solid firewall configuration in place. Antillie fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 14:33
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This is the network in my house. All ethernet is gigabit I ran. I connect to the internet via a FiOS ONT ethernet connection but still use the coax for my HDHomeRun Prime tuner to feed the MythTV. My house is L-shaped with my media center (consoles/wd live/etc) at the center. My office is upstairs over the ONT while the router and fileserver are right next to the ONT in the basement. I would like to move the C9 router to the media center since that area is where I entertain my guests since it's right below the dining room and living room. Also if I watch streaming stuff wirelessly it will either be there or in the media center. The issue is the Verizon ONT provides IPs via DHCP and the ONT does not filter on MAC (else I would change it to what the original router had). Moving the router to the media center will put it on the same network and I believe that will cause issues. Is this something routing can fix or buying managed switches? I would not like to run another wire across the basement rafters again. edit: found the answer below where a person was asking if it was possible to have two routers serving different clients over one wire quote:You will have to set the various computers on the sub-nets with static addresses as the DHCP protocol will not recognise which sub-net each computer is supposed to be on. But, for example, you could have router A supporting computers 1, 2 and 3 on the 192.168.0.0/24 sub-net and router B supporting computers 4, 5 and 6 on the 192.168.1.0/24 sub-net. The two routers could feed through an Ethernet switch on to a single long Ethernet cable and then through a second switch at the other end of the cable that feeds to the six computers (in my example). Thinking if I set my C9 router to always be 192.168.1.1 and manually set my hardwired systems to only use 192.168.1.1 for the gateway/dchp server, I should be good. EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 20:43
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EVIL Gibson posted:This is the network in my house. All ethernet is gigabit I ran. I connect to the internet via a FiOS ONT ethernet connection but still use the coax for my HDHomeRun Prime tuner to feed the MythTV. Right now the C9 is acting as both your router and wireless access point and it sounds like you want to move it to provide a better wireless signal. In order to do that you'll need to get another device to connect to your ONT to act as the router. Since you have FIOS I'd suggest getting an EdgeRouter Lite and hook it up where your C9 is now and move your fileserver over to the switch. It should be ONT > EdgeRouter > Switch > everything else. You can then set the C9 to AP only mode and move it wherever you want to act as just a wireless access point. You can either use it to replace the switch you have in your media center or dangle it off your existing switch like you listed in the picture. Just make sure that once it's set to AP only mode you only use the LAN ports on the back and don't hook anything up to the WAN port.
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Apr 17, 2016 20:57
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Krailor posted:Right now the C9 is acting as both your router and wireless access point and it sounds like you want to move it to provide a better wireless signal. In order to do that you'll need to get another device to connect to your ONT to act as the router. Since you have FIOS I'd suggest getting an EdgeRouter Lite and hook it up where your C9 is now and move your fileserver over to the switch. It should be ONT > EdgeRouter > Switch > everything else. Thanks! One question, since I want my C9 to serve the wireless and not the EdgeRouter, can I go for the EdgeRouter X which just does ethernet instead of the EdgeRouter Lite?
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Apr 18, 2016 03:41
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EVIL Gibson posted:Thanks! They're both wired-only routers. It really depends how fast your internet connection is; up to 500Mbps you're fine going with the X anything faster and you'll want to move up to the lite.
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Apr 18, 2016 04:13
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My house is wired with a bunch of 4 strand phone cords. They meet in a junction box outside the house. It would be great to be able to simply pull new CAT6 through with the old wiring. Is there a small 4 or 5 port switch that uses POE that I could possibly put out there? My ideal would be to put a router inside one room that would send power and data to that exterior switch which would then send data to where my phone jacks used to be.
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Apr 18, 2016 04:26
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Jago posted:My house is wired with a bunch of 4 strand phone cords. They meet in a junction box outside the house. It would be great to be able to simply pull new CAT6 through with the old wiring. Is there a small 4 or 5 port switch that uses POE that I could possibly put out there? My ideal would be to put a router inside one room that would send power and data to that exterior switch which would then send data to where my phone jacks used to be. Does the switch need to be able to stand the outdoors or is there a box it will go in? If there's a box, there are a lot of PoE switches that should work, although they cost a little more than a normal desktop switch. I see a couple on amazon for 70-80 bucks.
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Apr 18, 2016 06:09
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I may have to do a box, didn't see any obvious weatherproof things that weren't 400 bucks in my quick search. Can you point me to one of the POE switches? I am not sure on the keyword. I think I found switches that provided power rather than ran on POE.
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Apr 18, 2016 11:27
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Here's a 5-port POE powered switch.
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Apr 18, 2016 14:37
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I have a house with ethernet faceplates in a few places and I want to put a 4-port switch and a wireless AP on each one because coverage is spotty with a single router. Is there a recommended device that does both of these things at once? The recommended ones in the OP don't seem to have wired ports on them. Bonus points for PoE support, though I'll also need a way to add that at the router end. Would be good to avoid having multiple devices that each need power and everything looking messy.
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Apr 18, 2016 18:45
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Tunga posted:I have a house with ethernet faceplates in a few places and I want to put a 4-port switch and a wireless AP on each one because coverage is spotty with a single router. Is there a recommended device that does both of these things at once? The recommended ones in the OP don't seem to have wired ports on them. Bonus points for PoE support, though I'll also need a way to add that at the router end. Would be good to avoid having multiple devices that each need power and everything looking messy. https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-wall/ - just get a PoE switch to feed these. The WAP is the box on the back of the faceplate.
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Apr 18, 2016 18:57
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Wilford Cutlery posted:https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-wall/ - just get a PoE switch to feed these. The WAP is the box on the back of the faceplate. Re the in wall APs: Rexxed posted:You'd probably need more of them for the same coverage area but it might suit some buildings with heay walls better. Krailor posted:The in-wall is limited to 2.4 GHz and a single antenna which means max speed of 150 Mbps and only a 25m range. I don't think it would be a good choice for a home user. Antillie posted:The lack of support for the 5ghz band is enough to make me not recommend them. They are also slow (every other UAP does at least 2x2 MIMO, even the old ones) and probably have poor range due their small antenna. If your place is already wired for ethernet I don't see any reason to bother with these when you can just get a UAP-AC-Lite, or even a classic UAP, and mount it to the wall nearby. CrazyLittle posted:Yep, those things are aimed at the biz installs that are retrofitting old wiring and are too cheap to do a proper AP install on the ceiling. Any consumer router is an AP/switch combo device if you turn off its DHCP server and ignore its WAN port. A 5 port TOUGHSwitch and an AC-AP-Lite are a good combo as well since you only need to plug in the switch which then feeds power to the AP via PoE. Also the UAP-AC-Pro has two ethernet ports so you can hook one into the LAN and then connect a PC/game console/whatever to the other one. So if you just have one thing to plug in aside from the AP you don't need a switch. Antillie fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Apr 18, 2016 |
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Apr 18, 2016 21:03
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Antillie posted:Any consumer router is an AP/switch combo device if you turn off its DHCP server and ignore its WAN port.
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Apr 18, 2016 22:17
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Tunga posted:Okay, this is insanely obvious and seems like the cheapest and neatest way to do this. So I guess I'll just stick a TP-LINK Archer C5 at each one? Or is there any cheapish decent router that can be powered by PoE so I could stick a single PoE-switch at the (actual) router end and avoid power cables at each AP? Can you describe how your house is laid out (sq footage, foors, etc) and where your wireless router is now? Adding in a bunch of APs all over the place seems like overkill for anything that isn't a mansion or some crazy house with chicken wire in all the walls. It would probably make more sense to just get one decent AP somewhere centrally located.
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Apr 18, 2016 22:23
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Krailor posted:Adding in a bunch of APs all over the place seems like overkill for anything that isn't a mansion or some crazy house with chicken wire in all the walls. There is a ISP-provided modem/router by the front door which can't move since that's where the phone/fibre socket is. It's a fairly long house and the signal doesn't carry to the back but that may just be because it's a crappy router. It also has a loft conversion and a garage at the bottom of the garden. He's had CAT6 and faceplates installed already, two in the house and one in the garage, these will give good coverage across the house and garden. And we'll turn off the AP on the ISP router. So not sticking them all over or anything crazy, it's only two in the house. It looks like I can connect a PoE switch (TP-LINK TL-SG1008P) to the modem/router and then use a PoE splitter (TL-POE10R) at the other end to power whatever router I want, let's say a C5. Anything terrible about this plan?
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Apr 18, 2016 22:56
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Tunga posted:Okay, more detail: it's not my house, I'm helping someone else figure out what to buy. I have a decent understanding of networking stuff but haven't ever had a house big enough to need more than one AP and PoE stuff is all new to me. Theoretically that would work but you should double check that whatever access point you hook up will work with the splitter. For example the splitter specifies that it can only output up to 12v/1A but the C5 router requires an input of 12v/2.5A so it doesn't look like it will work. I think those are more for powering small things on the other end that aren't POE compatible like a surveillance camera or raspberry pi. I think you'll either have to get dedicated APs that support POE or if you want to stick with consumer routers-as-APs you'll probably be stuck having to plug them in.
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Apr 18, 2016 23:31
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Tunga posted:Okay, more detail: it's not my house, I'm helping someone else figure out what to buy. I have a decent understanding of networking stuff but haven't ever had a house big enough to need more than one AP and PoE stuff is all new to me. If you can connect those wall jacks into the TL-SG1008P, you can grab 2/3 UAP-AC-Lites and a couple of those 802.3af adapters to power them off of the Ethernet on the wall. Or just buy UAP-AC-Pros which are 802.3af compatible (which is what I would do here). EDIT: Or if you don't care about a few extra wires at the router end, just buy a cheap/decent unmanaged 8 port gigabit switch and use the included power injectors with the UAP-AC-Lites. This is all assuming he just wants wireless internet in the far reaching corners of his house where those ethernet jacks are and doesn't need wired connections for anything in those rooms. If he needs wired connections for other things in the room, then getting consumer routers and turning them into switches/APs is likely going to be the easiest and cheapest option. Viper_3000 fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Apr 19, 2016 |
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Apr 19, 2016 00:47
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Viper_3000 posted:If he needs wired connections for other things in the room, then getting consumer routers and turning them into switches/APs is likely going to be the easiest and cheapest option. Given I'm going to turn off DHCP so most of the software features are useless, is there anything smaller than a C5 with decent Wi-Fi performance and 4 gigabit ports? Should I even care much about what routers I pick given I'm using them as dumb switches with APs?
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Apr 19, 2016 10:09
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Tunga posted:He does, so we'll go with this. And we'll forget PoE, not worth the hassle, can deal with a single power cord to each router. You could use a WDR3600 if you don't need wireless AC. But even then you're only saving $20 over a c7. I wouldn't care that much, but in general, the cheaper you go the worse your wifi is going to be and the shittier the interface will be. I'd say C7s are probably the cheapest I'd go if I needed wireless AC. I mean, that's what a UAP-AC-Lite would run you anyway and you get a free switch on top of it. Be aware that unless you run something like DD-WRT, you'll only have access to 3 ethernet ports on the router, as the WAN port is useless on stock firmware when running in AP mode.
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Apr 19, 2016 12:57
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I meant physically smaller, not necessarily cheaper. Maybe they have poo poo antenna on smaller boxes?
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Apr 19, 2016 18:35
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I kind of doubt this is the right thread for this question, but I will ask anyway. My cable company just started offering 300Mbps service in my area. I want to subscribe, but my old router only had 100Mbps ports. I have an old C2D Dell Latitude, so I decided to install pfSense and give that a whirl. The Latitude has a built in Intel gigabit NIC and I added a second (Broadcom) gigabit NIC via the ExpressCard slot. Everything works great except one annoyance. I have a web server that serves pages via https over port 443. I have a dynamic DNS set up. With my old router, I could go to https://mydynamicdns.domain.com and the page would load, whether I was on a machine attached to my home network or not. I set up a port forward on the new pfSense setup, and my web server works OK from remote devices (like my phone with Wifi turned off), but nothing loads when I try to reach https://mydynamicdns.domain.com from any machine attached to the local network. I set up the web server with letsencrypt in order to avoid scary browser messages. This works just fine when connecting to the server from a remote machine, but if I go to 192.168.1.webserverIP on the local network I get scary messages about certificates. I think these things are related. How can I tell pfSense to pretend like internet traffic to a particular port should be treated like external traffic to the same port? EDIT: Found the solution. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Apr 19, 2016 |
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Apr 19, 2016 19:11
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Tunga posted:I meant physically smaller, not necessarily cheaper. Maybe they have poo poo antenna on smaller boxes? You could spring for Mikrotik hAP ACs. Which are way overkill for what you need. (Fair warning, I'm not a Mikrotik guy and don't know a lot about their system.) It honestly sounds like he just needs to take the plunge and actually wire his house with ethernet drops in the places he needs them, buy a big (unmanaged) switch and a couple of proper ceiling mounted PoE APs.
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Apr 19, 2016 23:22
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Viper_3000 posted:You could spring for Mikrotik hAP ACs. Which are way overkill for what you need. (Fair warning, I'm not a Mikrotik guy and don't know a lot about their system.) I'm totally with this idea, Mikrotiks are Awesome. loving rock solid compared to any consumer class crap. Just get Winbox ( the management tool for Mikrotiks) and away you go. They can basically be as simple or complicated as you want to get. Aside from the insane flexibility these have, they have really good radios and I have never had to 'reboot' one to get it working again. My network has the hAP AC's predecessor, the N model basically, as my main router. I have a NetBox model for my 5Ghz Dual chain radio, and a hAP lite for B/G/N in a few areas. I also use 2 of their point to point 5Ghz 866Mbps antennas to feed my business with comcast internet from 600ft away. Installed about a year ago and it has never gone down or done anything annoying or funny. I am not light on my network either. Major bandwidth is pushed every day and these Mikrotiks handle it.
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Apr 20, 2016 02:01
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This seems interesting for a UCFF pfsense box: http://www.anandtech.com/show/10244/compulab-fitletxa10lan-review-a-fanless-amd-ucff-pc-for-networking-applications
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Apr 20, 2016 02:43
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Is it a bad thing to have too many WAPs? We are in the process of buying a new house; this new house has two stories and a basement, and I'm pretty sure the current owners have their network equipment in the basement (and where the line comes in), and that's probably where I'll put the modem, router (Edgerouter X), and switch, too. I was then thinking one WAP (UAP-AC-Lite across the board) in the basement, one WAP on the top floor (there's a nice landing in the middle of the bedrooms, and I'd mount it on the ceiling) and then two WAPs on the ground floor, right on either side of the kitchen, putting one right in the family room, and the other in the study. But if there's too much possibility of interference, would one per floor still be too much? Would it be terrible if I had a long-term plan to just put one in every room of the house and blanket the house in radio signal?
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Apr 20, 2016 02:53
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Axiem posted:Is it a bad thing to have too many WAPs? It depends on how well you plan your AP deployment and what your needs are. I would try and stick to three APs, one per floor. That way you can use channels 1, 6, and 11 in the 2.4ghz band and avoid any cross channel interference. This isn't so much of an issue in the 5ghz band but not everything has a 5ghz antenna. You can go with two APs on the ground floor if you need to. But try it with just one at first and see how your coverage is before you spend more money. No point in buying four if three will do the job. Putting one AP per room can work if you turn down the transmit power and plan the channel layout so they don't overlap and interfere with each other. In fact this is how you build a high capacity wifi system. But buying lots of APs for this style of deployment can get expensive pretty quickly and I seriously doubt you have enough wifi things to make this type of deployment worth the cost. Antillie fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Apr 20, 2016 |
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Apr 20, 2016 04:43
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Antillie posted:But try it with just one at first and see how your coverage is before you spend more money. No point in buying four if three will do the job. What I would like to do before doing any permanent mounting is to get some good objective measurements of the Wi-Fi signal in key places for the WAP being in different places. That is, what I plan to do before really going through with all this plan is to try to get the WAP in a test location just powered on but without an actual connection back to the switch, because I don't want to run cable in walls if I don't have to, and get a single WAP with a Wi-Fi spread. Then, I'll take my laptop to a dozen or so locations around the house--generally, the places I anticipate someone wanting to use the Wi-Fi the most (sitting on a couch, at the toilets, on the desk, out on the deck, etc.) and record how good the signal is. Then move the WAP somewhere else, and do the same thing, and try to figure out what the best locations of the WAPs should be from that. The problem is that I'm not really sure how to objectively measure the signal in a comparable way. I have NetSpot (free version) installed on my laptop, but I'm not entirely sure how to read/understand it. Is the number I'm ultimately looking for the Signal-to-Noise ratio, probably averaged over a 5-minute period? Also, any advice on how I can temporarily put a WAP up against a ceiling where I would mount it, but without affecting signal levels too much (such as sitting it on top of a metal ladder), or damaging the ceiling (such as with duct tape)? If I can actually eke out enough signal from just top floor and basement, I'd rather do that (because money), though I also have concerns about the sheer number of devices, and my understanding is that more devices on a given WAP will slow down all of the devices connected to that WAP, so the third WAP should help segment the devices a little more, right?
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Apr 20, 2016 05:03
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