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bring back old gbs posted:Well if you were doing a straight transplant of the motors with the only 4 screws they came with, that is very strange and should not have happened. I've accidentally hit windings before when using motors that came with a ton of screws for all different arm thickness. the shorter screws worked fine but the longer ones would always cause cogging even if they didnt appear to be touching anything. But even with the cogging and me throwing the throttle around like crazy trying to get around it I never actually shorted anything or smoked a motor right off the bat... Yeah, I'm pretty bummed. Could it be firmware that caused the cogging? All the motors were cogging a bit when disarmed, toggling oneshot actually stopped it. I tried increasing the min throttle which helped a bit, as did lowering min command. I cut the heatshrink off the ESC and inspected the coils in the motor and I don't see anything burned up, it does smell a little weird. I think it puffed when I accidentally gave it a little bit of throttle when it was cogging. Before it smoked I was able to flick the arm switch a few times and it would start spinning like the rest of them, I tried this after I saw it puff and it still worked as I just described. The only other thing I did was cable tie the heat shrinked ESC to the frame. Is it possible that it's still flyable? Just shot off an email to Diatone though, thanks.    
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Apr 25, 2016 01:26
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The buy 5 when you need 4 rule failed meee. My morphite is never getting back in the air. Luckily I bought locally and the guy is sending 2 more out but I feel like such a scam artist. One of the bags was very clearly cut open above the stapled cardboard top and the other just looked ripped. The actual envelope with the company logo on it and everything was untouched though.
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That first ESC pic looks like its a bit burnt on the two top motor wires. Does it look burnt to you?
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Apr 25, 2016 04:29
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Speaking of burning ESCs.. The first quad I assembled I took my ESC out of the plastic protective covering to solder some stuff and I figured "hey I'll just leave the plastic off" before I attached all four directly to CF arms. Needless to say, I was rudely reminded that CF conducts electricity.
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Apr 25, 2016 04:46
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Philthy posted:That first ESC pic looks like its a bit burnt on the two top motor wires. Does it look burnt to you? Looks worse in the picture.. kinda looks like they over-fluxed in person, but I could be wrong. I'm actually facebook chatting with one of the Diatone guys in HK, will report back. edit: So they're gonna send me 2 replacement ESC's, a motor and a set of shorter screws. I figured out that having Oneshot enabled is causing my motors to jitter, but neither the HK tech or I know what the means or how to fix it. I'm thinking it might be the BLHeli firmware? He said it shouldn't effect how it flies, but I dunno. double edit: Decided to order 4 new DYS XM20a ESC that I linked earlier and a new motor. Looked closer at the integrated PDB on the tyrant and there shouldn't be any issue using the XM20a esc's. I wasn't thinking clearly earlier just noticed there is a ground pad in addition to the signal pad, which I am assuming are for twisted throttle signal wires. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Apr 25, 2016 |
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Apr 25, 2016 04:53
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Completely new to drones, I decided to build a FliteTest Versacopter because they've got neat and detailed instructional videos. It's good! I'll admit I was practicing on Liftoff quite a bit before I managed to complete the build. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOg8MLpGgj4 I just ordered my FPV stuff and it should be here within the week. Flavor Truck fucked around with this message at 10:12 on Apr 25, 2016 |
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Apr 25, 2016 10:10
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Re: Soldering You guys use solder with integrated flux or do you use them separately. I'm wondering, because getting solder on pads cleanly keeps being a challenge.
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Apr 25, 2016 10:46
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60/40 rosin core. you can always get a flux pen as well
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Apr 25, 2016 15:15
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Combat Pretzel posted:Re: Soldering 60/40 lead-based flux-cored solder. Lead solder is so much easier to use than the new non-lead versions. This one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002L5Y8R8/ref=pe_1909131_77697121_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1
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Apr 25, 2016 15:22
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My 2217's showed up today. Now.. we see if that'll fly longer than the stock motors. They're smaller than I thought they'd be. At least they were only $10 each. Combat Pretzel posted:Re: Soldering You're not getting the pads hot enough. (seriously.)
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Apr 25, 2016 15:59
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Combat Pretzel posted:Re: Soldering If I just use generic "rosin core" solder I always get little spikes following my tip as I pull it away. Just a dirty joint, it'll harden matte, not shiny. I use a tiny little screwdriver to dab a bit of flux on the joint and even if you just touch the joint for an instant the spike doesn't follow anymore and the solder will be a nice clean shiny blob. To clean up extra flux I spray a bit of rubbing alcohol on the part and go over everything with an old toothbrush. Makes everything look super clean. The mini screwdriver kit, alcohol spray bottle, and toothbrushes all came from the dollar store, nothing fancy. Maybe expensive solder doesn't do the spiky thing, but that can be remedied with a $4 tin of flux in my experience.
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Apr 25, 2016 17:47
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You guys use liquid electrical tape? Thinking about using it on the exposed esc leads on my pdb
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Apr 25, 2016 17:49
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Google Butt posted:You guys use liquid electrical tape? Thinking about using it on the exposed esc leads on my pdb I use it on the main leads and cover my D4R and X4R receivers in it when I debox and cram them into a frame.
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Apr 25, 2016 17:58
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bring back old gbs posted:If I just use generic "rosin core" solder I always get little spikes following my tip as I pull it away.
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Apr 25, 2016 18:16
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HNNNNGGGGGGGGG   Some guy using automotive carbon techniques to make quad frames https://www.facebook.com/steve.craemer/posts/1262397777122322
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Apr 25, 2016 18:54
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What purpose do motors tilted forward serve? In general, not just the automobile quad.
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Apr 25, 2016 19:35
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bring back old gbs posted:HNNNNGGGGGGGGG Nice looking design.
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Apr 25, 2016 19:37
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Ineptitude posted:What purpose do motors tilted forward serve? In general, not just the automobile quad. The body of the quad will be level (or at least closer to level,) while moving forward.
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Apr 25, 2016 19:47
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So I finished the lower part of my "aerodynamic" arm sleeves, and they're 12gr of plastic per arm. Roughly 50gr of additional weight, and they're already setup to be printed as thin as possible. I wonder whether I get that even back with improved airflow over the arms.
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Apr 25, 2016 21:25
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Combat Pretzel posted:So I finished the lower part of my "aerodynamic" arm sleeves, and they're 12gr of plastic per arm. Roughly 50gr of additional weight, and they're already setup to be printed as thin as possible. I wonder whether I get that even back with improved airflow over the arms. No way. Well, maybe of you're using 220x with fat triblades, who knows. You'd be better off using that "finishing" coating stuff you can paint on 3d prints to smooth out the layer lines, then using those parts to vacuum form some thin plastic. You'd still have to figure out a way to mount that thin plastic to the arms, maybe similar to how the RotorX Raiju canopy just stays on with elastics/shrink wrap. https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/ Heck, your next project could be a DIY vacuum former!! The building never stops! bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Apr 25, 2016 |
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Apr 25, 2016 21:32
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MrYenko posted:The body of the quad will be level (or at least closer to level,) while moving forward. Aha, that makes sense  In other news, i took my quad out on its maiden flight today (in my living room) Jesus christ the noise. Its like using a gas powered leafblower indoors, and thats with the quad barely lifting off (essentially just coasting along the floor)
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Apr 25, 2016 22:24
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Try bullnose props.
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Apr 25, 2016 22:37
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Combat Pretzel posted:So I finished the lower part of my "aerodynamic" arm sleeves, and they're 12gr of plastic per arm. Roughly 50gr of additional weight, and they're already setup to be printed as thin as possible. I wonder whether I get that even back with improved airflow over the arms. Got access to a vacuum table?
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Apr 26, 2016 00:32
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CrazyLittle posted:Got access to a vacuum table? That's the way to do it. I think it could be done even with flat .020 lexan. Hmm... I should do that.
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Apr 26, 2016 02:11
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Can you print your aerodynamic parts in Vase mode? That makes the wall 1 unit thick. It will be very light, but will likely break easily unless you use something like ninjaflex filament.
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Apr 26, 2016 02:17
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--edit: ^^^ Would vase mode work with open splines, or does it have to be closed? Never used it before. No vacuum table  Regarding LC filters, can I stick them very close to ESCs, or would induction from later defy their purpose? I'd like to cram as much as possible between the two bottom plates with the other electrics.
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Apr 26, 2016 11:23
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I've also never used vase mode, I just know it exists and is a way to make the thinnest walls possible. It just prints a perimeter.
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Apr 26, 2016 16:03
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I bought a set of tiger motors mn2206 kv2000 to replace the set I shorted out ($100 learning experience lol). I'm a little confused though, the motors that came with my tyrant are 2 cw and 2 ccw threaded, the t motors don't specify the thread direction and you can order single motors. Do some brands have all cw threads and some have cw and ccw?
Google Butt fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Apr 26, 2016 |
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Apr 26, 2016 18:20
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Google Butt posted:I bought a set of tiger motors mn2206 kv2000 to replace the set I shorted out ($100 learning experience lol). I'm a little confused though, the motors that came with my tyrant are 2 cw and 2 ccw threaded, the t motors don't specify the thread direction and you can order single motors. Do some brands have all cw threads and some have cw and ccw? Yes.
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Apr 26, 2016 19:03
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Cool. What's the reason for that? Pros/cons?
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Apr 26, 2016 19:13
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Google Butt posted:Cool. What's the reason for that? Pros/cons? Direction of rotation will cause the prop nuts to self-tighten, so that you don't need lock-nuts. Also makes it easier to see which prop goes where
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Apr 26, 2016 19:27
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With active braking, I'd figure lock nuts are still a plus.
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Apr 26, 2016 19:28
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Direction of rotation will cause the prop nuts to self-tighten, so that you don't need lock-nuts. Also makes it easier to see which prop goes where Ah. Are you stuck with the bullet style nuts (comes with the motors I ordered) with the little hex screw if all your motors have cw threads, or can you get away with standard 5mm nylon lock nuts?
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Apr 26, 2016 19:30
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Google Butt posted:Ah. Are you stuck with the bullet style nuts (comes with the motors I ordered) with the little hex screw if all your motors have cw threads, or can you get away with standard 5mm nylon lock nuts? I know some people who just use CW with 5mm nylon lock nuts. YMMV
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Apr 26, 2016 19:32
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I don't like looking for backwards nuts
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Apr 26, 2016 20:55
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A Yolo Wizard posted:I don't like looking for backwards nuts Yeah seems annoying
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Apr 26, 2016 21:00
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I just use nylocks and CW threads. Easy peasy. It also means that spare motors can be used at any spot on the quad.
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Apr 26, 2016 23:28
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So when I've been testing with autolevel modes on (Or flying indoors), all my quads have always slowly rotated left or right. I always thought it was just cheap compasses in the flight controllers. Someone pointed out that it's actually the yaw blipping from 1500 to 1501 to 1500 to 1501 really fast. So in the cleanflight controls under the receiver tab there is a thing called yaw deadband. I set it to 5, and now it stays put. This is really only noticeable in the self leveling modes like angle or horizon, but depending on your transmitter/receiver combo it might be so strong it'll carry over to the rate modes, too. It was such a freaking annoying problem. Not sure if all the software combos out there have this option, but betaflight does and it fixed it. Philthy fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Apr 27, 2016 |
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Apr 27, 2016 04:15
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Philthy posted:So when I've been testing with autolevel modes on (Or flying indoors), all my quads have always slowly rotated left or right. I always thought it was just cheap compasses in the flight controllers. it's available on cleanflight too, but only via the command line IIRC.
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Apr 27, 2016 12:48
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it was in multiwii which is the ancestor of base/clean/betaflight.
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Apr 27, 2016 12:56
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Going to write up my new motors and escs tonight. My escs come with the blheli boatloader, meaning I should be able to reverse motor direction via cleanflight. Is there any downside to doing that if I get the wiring wrong, rather than resoldering the wires?
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Apr 27, 2016 17:49
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