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I want to recommend HG GX or DX, but I really can't. Too many stickers to really have fun with the build. what will i do without my purpose in life 
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Apr 24, 2016 02:29
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BlitzBlast posted:I want to recommend HG GX or DX, but I really can't. Too many stickers to really have fun with the build. Oh, speaking of, you'll have to help him with the yellow chest sticker for the Sniper, but it's a good introduction to the wild world of high quality, oddly shaped Bandai stickers.
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Apr 24, 2016 02:32
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The Man Rodi and Gundam Gusion frogbots from IBO are cheap and good. I'd be a little leery of getting the HG Graze for a beginner, them parts is tiny.
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Apr 24, 2016 02:34
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Bimmi posted:The Man Rodi and Gundam Gusion frogbots from IBO are cheap and good. As much as I love the sniper, I'd say it's a bit worse on that count. Most of it's good, but the visor optic is a nightmare. Fiddlier than the smart parts on most RGs. I'm voting for the Revive Guncannon. Not too many small parts, great articulation, looks nice out of the box.
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Apr 24, 2016 02:47
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BlitzBlast posted:I want to recommend HG GX or DX, but I really can't. Too many stickers to really have fun with the build. still need to paint my HG GX in kai's colors
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Apr 24, 2016 03:45
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homeless snail posted:What are some good starter HG kits for a kid that's never done any modelling before, that will be fairly easy for him to put together, look cool without paneling potentially, and aren't overly fragile? Hanging out with my nephew this summer and the two things he loves more than anything else are assembling things from instructions and sick robots so I think gunpla might be something he'd be way into. He has no affinity for the show so he won't care what series its from so long as it looks cool. I like this little bundle: https://www.hlj.com/product/BAN950665/Gun Three kits for $20. Four stickers between all of them.
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Apr 24, 2016 04:04
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Not bad for 20 bux, but the Z'gok and Gogg are bona fide antiques. I'd really like to see the latter get an update.
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Apr 24, 2016 08:05
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Man I got lucky at this small con in my home city. Managed to randomly see a the mg hi nu hws from p Bandai. Got it for 50 bucks Canadian.
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Apr 24, 2016 22:04
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 I built the 1/100 schwalbe graze. it was pretty fun, probably a mistake to build it right after the regular graze though. p.s. enjoy my dirty dishes in the background
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Apr 24, 2016 22:32
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Is there any market for kits you don't want any more once you've assembled them? I'm not expecting any significant pricetag, just wondering if there's anything remotely productive it'd be worth my while to do do with the HG 00 kits I practiced on before moving to the stuff I seriously liked. If so, what'd be a decent price to sell them for? UK pounds, unpainted snap-builds, nothing flashy, but all in good repair if a mite dusty.
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Apr 24, 2016 22:32
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Dump them on eBay for like half the price of the unbuilt kit. You can usually sell them off to people looking for parts or who want to do a fix-em-up project.
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Apr 25, 2016 00:46
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In wondering when the kit I ordered was going to get here, I checked the shipping and realised that free shipping takes a month. So that explains that, but it's okay because I did not particularly want to spend more money on shipping than I paid for the kit in the first place. At least I've found a few other things to do with my free time while I'm waiting for that to arrive!
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Apr 25, 2016 08:06
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I've learned that when ordering gunpla from amazon to make sure to click the "## new from $##" link to check all the vendors who sell it as some will do 2 day prime shipping while others take months getting though customs
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Apr 25, 2016 17:02
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So I bought the MG red Astray today, and I just got nervous because I realized that it has Dry transfers. Is there anything I should make sure I do or don't do so I don't gently caress those up to bad?
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Apr 25, 2016 20:11
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What was the lowest price the Hi Nu HWS was available at? I'm seeing it available for $75 which seems lower than I remember last seeing it but I can't remember if that's in line with the original cost.
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Apr 25, 2016 20:34
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BlitzBlast posted:Dump them on eBay for like half the price of the unbuilt kit. You can usually sell them off to people looking for parts or who want to do a fix-em-up project. So, what, a fiver per suit sound good? With all the imports and the dizzying variety of sellers I buy from, my expectations of what to pay for a kit are a little shot.
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Apr 25, 2016 20:38
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Darth Walrus posted:So, what, a fiver per suit sound good? With all the imports and the dizzying variety of sellers I buy from, my expectations of what to pay for a kit are a little shot. Just check hlj and amazon.
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Apr 25, 2016 20:41
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Yawgmoft posted:What was the lowest price the Hi Nu HWS was available at? I'm seeing it available for $75 which seems lower than I remember last seeing it but I can't remember if that's in line with the original cost. I believe it launched for about 3000 yen or so. I got mine shipped for a little below 40bux back when it came out. And proceeded to have it sit around for years until I got my actual Hi-Nu 
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Apr 25, 2016 20:42
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The_Rob posted:So I bought the MG red Astray today, and I just got nervous because I realized that it has Dry transfers. Is there anything I should make sure I do or don't do so I don't gently caress those up to bad? Get some scotch tape and make absolutely sure you keep track of which side is supposed to be facing the plastic. Hint: It's the side that was originally covered by wax paper. Darth Walrus posted:So, what, a fiver per suit sound good? With all the imports and the dizzying variety of sellers I buy from, my expectations of what to pay for a kit are a little shot. That might be a little low, but you'd definitely get a sale I guess. I dunno, do an auction or something.
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Apr 25, 2016 21:08
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:I believe it launched for about 3000 yen or so. I got mine shipped for a little below 40bux back when it came out. And proceeded to have it sit around for years until I got my actual Hi-Nu Better to do that then wait and oh whoops PG Unicorn Full Armor is now 180 dollars. I'm hoping with the release of the green inner frame one they'll re-release the FA.
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Apr 25, 2016 21:22
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The_Rob posted:So I bought the MG red Astray today, and I just got nervous because I realized that it has Dry transfers. Is there anything I should make sure I do or don't do so I don't gently caress those up to bad? That was my first MG and experience with dry transfers. I just cut around the decal and then used the scotch tape to lift it up away from the sheet. It wasn't too hard. Might want to try the decals that go on the sword scabbard (sheath?) cause they're small and won't matter too much if it you goof it.
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Apr 25, 2016 21:23
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  , that's a good Graze.
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Apr 25, 2016 21:51
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The_Rob posted:So I bought the MG red Astray today, and I just got nervous because I realized that it has Dry transfers. Is there anything I should make sure I do or don't do so I don't gently caress those up to bad?
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Apr 25, 2016 22:30
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Cat Hatter posted:
This is very helpful thank you.
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Apr 25, 2016 22:33
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Lemon-Lime posted:
thats macross as hell
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Apr 25, 2016 22:52
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Kuvo posted:thats macross as hell The title says it's a "Macross custom," so yeah. My first thought when I saw it was "that should really be a Jolly Roger, not Tekkadan's fleur-de-lys."
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Apr 26, 2016 01:54
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Finally had the time to do some more translating and jesus christ the MG GM 2.0's second testbox is dense as hell. This is only half of it, I'll do the rest later when I have time again. quote:A Comparison of the Developments and Applications of the Federation's Mass-Produced MS and the Principality of Zeon's Zaku edit: good lord the last textbox is the largest of all three these people really loving love talking about the gm and the oyw BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Apr 26, 2016 |
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Apr 26, 2016 07:12
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So airbrushing is pretty much the only way to paint gunpla huh?
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Apr 26, 2016 07:40
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Revitalized posted:So airbrushing is pretty much the only way to paint gunpla huh? It is the most effective and widely accepted way, yes. You can use spray cans but that severely limits your color choices. Hand-brushed paint jobs can be amazing in the hands of someone sufficiently talented, but such people are basically wizards and us mere mortals cant hope to compete. BlitzBlast posted:these people really loving love talking about the gm and the oyw I love it too. I never get tired of reading made-up facts and histories about my dumb plastic robots.
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Apr 26, 2016 07:55
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Revitalized posted:So airbrushing is pretty much the only way to paint gunpla huh? I've found hand-brushing to be fine for doing small details like vents or things that would get stickers for color separation, but if you want to repaint whole parts it's pretty hard to do by hand.
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Apr 26, 2016 16:40
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Black permanent markers are pretty good for detailing bits as well. Hell with a decent marker you can get some nice coverage.
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Apr 26, 2016 18:59
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Luminaflare posted:Black permanent markers are pretty good for detailing bits as well. Hell with a decent marker you can get some nice coverage. Sharpie markers are pretty drat good for just about everything. Hell, I painted a whole kit with them and the result was better than anything I could do by handpainting.
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Apr 26, 2016 19:07
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TaurusOxford posted:Sharpie markers are pretty drat good for just about everything. Hell, I painted a whole kit with them and the result was better than anything I could do by handpainting. Yeah, before I got an airbrush and some nice brushes I used a -lot- of sharpies. The Ultra Fine tips are about as good quality as the Gundam pens; the biggest difference is tip size and color variety (in Gundam's favor) And yeah, airbrushing is the best choice for most people since it gives a perfectly consistent painted-machine style look. But even then there are details which are basically impossible to neatly airbrush (mainly internal details) that require thin paintbrushes and toothpicks. Brush painting also allows graduents, which become useful for active laser or thruster looks. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Apr 26, 2016 |
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Apr 26, 2016 19:16
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TaurusOxford posted:Sharpie markers are pretty drat good for just about everything. Hell, I painted a whole kit with them and the result was better than anything I could do by handpainting. I like using tamiya brand washes, but I've used a small black sharpie to do the black on gundam eyes for years. sharpies are surprisingly useful in this hobby.
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Apr 26, 2016 19:46
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you people are killing me with these black acetone markers. they are bad, stop using them.
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Apr 26, 2016 19:51
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Bimmi posted:you people are killing me with these black acetone markers. They work fine on gunpla eyes and I will brook no argument to the contrary.
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Apr 26, 2016 19:51
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Monaghan posted:They work fine on gunpla eyes and I will brook no argument to the contrary. they are good for that, but the surface must be dry and the pen must be wet.
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Apr 26, 2016 19:53
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I now only panel line by doing a wash with oil paints. It weathers and panel lines at the same time. It's awesome.
The_Rob fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Apr 26, 2016 |
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Apr 26, 2016 20:13
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Me, I just use a mechanical pencil. There are undoubtedly better ways, but it does the job decently enough. That reminds me, though, I've been posting a lot of my builds in this thread, and while I realise they're very simple unpainted snap-builds, how do they look by those standards? Are they at least not egregiously crappy? How's the posing?
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Apr 26, 2016 20:26
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Darth Walrus posted:Me, I just use a mechanical pencil. There are undoubtedly better ways, but it does the job decently enough. They look good to me. Sometimes you leave nub marks, like on the hyakuren, but those can be really hard to take off without gouging the poo poo out of the model.
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Apr 26, 2016 20:38
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