|
I've been thinking about getting a projector and are currently looking at two models. The EPSON EH-TW7200 and the Sony vpl-hw40es. From what I can gather, the Sony has near reference picture quality straight out of the box, but has pretty short lamp life, but all in all they are both very good products at their price point. Is there anything that would edge one out over the other? Or do you have any suggestions for a completely different model at the same price point? I should say these are at the very top of my budget limit.
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 13:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 04:37 |
|
|
I'm posting on behalf of a friend, who wants to get a projector for home cinema, on a 100" screen. He's thinking of geting this one, is there any input you guys can give? http://www.ebuyer.com/666498-optoma-hd151x-dlp-projector-2800-lms-hd151x
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 14:03
|
|
|
What can anyone tell me about Projector Screens? Here's my dilemma: I have a great little area that would suit a projector really well. Throw distance is around 16'6", with a viewing distance around 11'6" because of the layout. Ceiling height is 6'5". I did a bunch of research on both specs and prices, and getting a Sony VPL-HW40ES projector, a 100-108" Elunevision screen and a ceiling mount for $2900CAD was hitting the perfect sweet spot. Then I find out that the company I was looking to purchase from (Eastporters) may not be an authorized Sony dealer in Canada (though they are authorized for nearly every other big brand). So - three choices. Get a different projector, buy from them and assume I'll never get support from Sony, or buy from an Authorized dealer for $3,000 and skip the ceiling mount, and build a DIY screen. I'm leaning towards the latter, but don't know where to start with screens - most of the DIY guides on the web fall far below my standards. I don't want to paint a wall, I want to actually make a nice screen using proper material...
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2016 23:02
|
|
|
I picked up the BenQ HT2050 and waiting on my 100" Silverscreen. According to the Wirecutter that's their highly recommended screen. That may be a cheaper option screenwise instead of DIYing it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2016 23:31
|
|
|
suddenlyissoon posted:Anyone have a mounted projector & in-ceiling speakers (like dolby atmos)? My wife & I are building a new house and I'm getting an entire bonus room. I want to pre-wire for 4 in-ceiling speakers and I'm heavily considering a projector due to the size of the room. I just want to make sure that when it's ceiling mounted that the speakers wouldn't shake the projector in some way. My rear/surround speakers are an in-ceiling pair of Polk RC60i, mounted in drop ceiling tiles within 4-5 feet of the projector, and I've never had an issue with them shaking the projector. At some point I need to take a look and see how many more speakers I'd need to add in order to get an Atmos-compatible setup.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2016 15:50
|
|
|
I'm pitching getting a projector for our new office, but finding one is a minefield. so many different models with very slightly differences in stats :/ The new space doesnt get a lot of light where we would put this so I think it'd be ideal. It will be used for video games, movies, and screen mirroring during meetings. Will have an amp with a single hdmi cable to the projector and keep all the sources wired to that on a table. One I picked out was this - http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD26-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00LL2SHK6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458607820&sr=8-1&keywords=optoma+hd26 And I had picked out this screen - http://www.amazon.com/Homegear-100-...EWG9M7AY2RCWK2F but now I read you're supposed to spend like $500 on the screen? I think we could go fixed frame if that'll get us a better screen and save money, am I right in thinking tab tension is a $400+ extra cost so that a pull down screen lies flat? I dont really have a fixed budget for this, it's pretty open - but I want to keep it reasonable enough that we can get it over a TV. The higher ups are unwilling to spend money on the unknown so i'll have to push hard for it and keep it cost effective. Want to do under 2k all in, but that needs to include amp, speakers and a ps4. $800 is being used up by those, which leaves like 1200 for the projector, mount & screen. edit: How are these screens? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYLOTPK?psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y7XA2OA/ref=psdc_1286610011_t2_B00CYLOTPK I think we'd be ok with fixed frame over retractable if it saves $250. cubicle gangster fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Mar 22, 2016 |
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 16:35
|
|
|
I'm using the 100" Silver Ticket Screen. I finished up installing everything 2 weekends ago. The screen is pretty amazing. Have you thought about the BenQ HT2050? It's what I have and drat is it crisp.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2016 22:54
|
|
|
Went with the benQ, thanks! Also went by the new office and it looks like we cant hang it from the ceiling, going to have to get a stand for it to sit on the meeting table. I'm a little nervous about getting this all set up, it wasnt an easy sell so i'm really banking on it blowing everyone away.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 18:48
|
|
|
cubicle gangster posted:Went with the benQ, thanks! Protip: make sure you have it at the right height so you don't have to use any keystone correction, it fucks up the picture.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2016 20:49
|
|
|
Question for those that might know. I've always ran my power and video through wiremold tracks. I'm tired of the poo poo, so I'm going to run the power in the walls and ceiling. I'm going to install a "powerbridge," basically I'm installing a power inlet near the AV equipment so I can plug my UPS into it, then the wire run to the projector will be Romex with a power outlet. So one wall plate will be an inlet, the other an outlet. I'll be following NEC code, but I just want to make sure I'll be golden following NEC code or if there is some dumb poo poo for California that I need to be aware of, or any tips if anyone has had to do this with their projector.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2016 06:05
|
|
Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
|
I don't know the answer to your questions, but I think you should probably ask it in the wiring thread in DIY: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739 Several electricians in there, lots of good resources.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2016 14:51
|
|
|
I don't think you can do what you're trying to do and keep it up to code. If you figure it out though please update the thread.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2016 17:12
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Protip: make sure you have it at the right height so you don't have to use any keystone correction, it fucks up the picture. Thanks! it looks incredible. Moved into our new office and found out the far end of the room where it is (and the door is) has 2 lights above that arent connected to the main circuit and cant be turned off. After some calling around we found out it's because of new fire regulations that all office spaces have to have a certain number of lights that are on 100% of the time. The lights directly above where the projector screen is due to go. I went on the warpath because to me it's loving madness that we cant make the space we are renting dark, and we've finally got someone coming who's going to disable them and put one the other side of the space on the circuit. I did get on a ladder to unscrew the bulbs over the weekend so we could match a movie on it and it blew us all away. I knew it was going to look good, but the color/contrast was so much better than anticipated. Really cant wait to get those lights ripped out officially so that we can use it without fear of a random inspection & huge fine. Hope to have everything mounted and the speakers wired up next week 
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2016 18:25
|
|
|
Thanks for the heads up, I'll post in that thread.revmoo posted:I don't think you can do what you're trying to do and keep it up to code. Considering you can buy in wall power kits that do the same thing for wall mount TVs, I don't see why not. The only difference is that I'm doing a ceiling and wall run and not using a kit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2016 07:11
|
|
|
Aeka 2.0 posted:Thanks for the heads up, I'll post in that thread. To keep it to code, you can't have a device power cord inside the wall. What op needs is to install an outlet in the wall behind the television (it doesn't have to be a "real" outlet, as I believe those kits that come with a connecting cable for inside the wall are actually up to code).
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2016 07:54
|
|
|
Aeka 2.0 posted:Thanks for the heads up, I'll post in that thread. I think the issue would be injecting power into the wall with a "portable" device (the ups). Anyway like I said let me know if you work it out.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2016 12:35
|
|
|
revmoo posted:I think the issue would be injecting power into the wall with a "portable" device (the ups). Anyway like I said let me know if you work it out. Well that thread is a mess. Got the wiring done, but I still don't know about the UPS. Wiring that up was a pain in the rear end navigating zero head room, blown in insulation, water pipes, sprinkler pipes, ac ducting, and overall a poo poo layout with poo poo work from the house builder.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 05:41
|
|
|
Still hoping for a response about the best projector for VJ (video jockey) work. I had to temporarily pick up an Epson Home Cinema 1040 for a job recently. Specifically picked it up because it was 3k lumens and it was the highest lumens I could find which I could buy easily in a store. It is also pretty small and portable. I am planning on taking it back however because I want something brighter if possible. The BenQ HT2050 mentioned looks pretty good but it is only 2200 lumens. I am looking for something between 3-5k lumens which is fairly portable and around 1 grand but I am willing to spend more. Can anyone recommend something? Lumens, portability, and contrast ratio are my biggest concerns. What are you going to watch/play/do? - VJ - so as mentioned, portability and durability are a big factor. How big of a picture do you want? - Hadn't given this a lot of thought as throw distance and lumens are a bigger factor. I would say the size of a club wall, so at least 10-12 feet at bare minimum. Are you going to use a screen? (if you already own a screen, how big/what kind/what gain, if known?) - Right now I am experimenting with small amounts of tulle but I plan on buying roughly 110' x 50 yard bolt to build a screen out of tulle with. Outside of that, I will eventually buy a white screen used or use the wall of the venue if I can. What are the restrictions, if any, on placement? - I have a good friend who has VJ'd for many, many years. He modified a speaker stand to make a projector stand and I hope to do the same. The idea is to strap it to a speaker stand with a custom platform and get the thing as high over heads as possible. In some cases, with a new venue, I may have the time to mount the projector but that isn't always possible. Wish I still had my old ceiling projection mount but I have no idea where that went since I moved. Pretty sure it was trashed in the move. Other - A remote is pretty important, as is the ability to operate focus and keystone remotely. Projector should be black in color and as powerful / rugged as possible for the price. Lumens and throw distance are most important, with screen size and resolution coming next in priority. Paranoid about club environments, so any advice about a case or projector housing is welcome.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 20:48
|
|
|
I don't think you'll find something that bright for that cheap that's also portable.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 01:11
|
|
|
revmoo posted:I think the issue would be injecting power into the wall with a "portable" device (the ups). Anyway like I said let me know if you work it out. I got an email from PowerBridge (a kit manufacture), they stated a UPS does not violate code. I'll link the email when I get home. I'm not using the kit from PowerBridge, but a "roll you own" Romex variety. The kits are now called out in the 2014 NEC book as legal. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Apr 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2016 20:27
|
|
|
Thanks for the update, interested to hear that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2016 21:20
|
|
|
Underwhelming but here it is:quote:An external UPS which is energized from an outlet receptacle, is not under any Code restrictions.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2016 07:39
|
|
|
I have a friend that needs a projector. He is a photographer who will be traveling around the country promoting his coffee table book, and wants to be able to take a projector with him to various events and show an animated 'Ken Burns-sytle' slideshow of images from his book to audiences ranging from around a dozen to around 100 people. I imaging that there are quite a few options when it comes to projectors with 1.) portability (plugging it in shouldn't be a problem.. do they even make battery-powered projectors that are worth a poo poo?) 2.) good image quality (although he's going to be projecting in relatively dark spaces so super-bright output probably isn't a requirement) 3.) can project close-in and far away, large (up to 20-30' diagonally..maybe?) and also small (6' diagonally?). But what are the best? My only real experience with projectors comes from the standard-issue, ceiling mounted types that my office uses. And a short-thow projector that I used for an AR sandbox project. Do flexible multi-distance, multi-size projectors like the kind I'm imaging actually exist? In addition to these requirements, he also has a wish: that he could run the animated presentation directly from the projector. Are there... projectors that come with the ability to play back media files loaded directly onto them from a USB or something? Or maybe have onboard computers that would enable playback of Powerpoint presentations? Idea budget would be not more than $1200-1500, but if there's something really great that costs more he will consider it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2016 00:39
|
|
|
LG PF1500
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2016 02:00
|
|
|
Thanks, I believe you've given me a good recommendation. This looks like it checks all the boxes. The specs list quote:Connectivity: So it's got lots of poo poo to support you feeding media into it from your device or whatever. Then this guy in the comments section of the LG product page helpfully includes this tidbit quote:you've got builtin support for Excel, PowerPoint, and PDF - this makes a great travel projector Can I ask about one more? What about something that doesn't have USB PPT playback? It doesn't even necessarily have to have anything but the most basic wired connectivity for playing media off of a laptop - just something in the same rough price/size/portability range, but brighter and with deeper blacks. Other portable projectors that I find when googling poo poo like 'best image quality portable projector' turn out stuff that seems to fall well below the specs of the PF1500, but maybe I've missed something? Dell 4220, maybe? Although it doesn't seem to rate as good for image quality. Edit: oh, the Dell is not FHD. SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Apr 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2016 02:46
|
|
|
150 000 : 1 contrast sounds like made up specs. Probably has good contrast but a good TV or monitor has 3000:1 contrast. How is a projector doing 50 times that?
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2016 19:57
|
|
|
Probably dynamic contrast. So yeah, made up.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2016 21:38
|
|
|
I'm looking for commentary/recommendations for a combination gaming/work projector and miscellany for a setup we're planning at home. What are you going to watch/play/do? - The basic idea is a ceiling-mounted projector projecting straight down onto a tabletop, combined with a wiimote whiteboard setup to allow the use of an IR pen as a mouse substitute. How big of a picture do you want? - The projected space I'm looking for is approximately 5'x3'. For a 16:9 projector, this would actually be 60" by 33.75", or a near approximation. Are you going to use a screen? (if you already own a screen, how big/what kind/what gain, if known?) - Looking for suggestions on a screen/surface that will function as both a dry-erase board as well as take projection acceptably. As I understand it, whiteboards typically have issues with projection "hotspots" in the center because of their glossy finish, but whatever it is, it has to be able to take a dry-erase marker and erase cleanly. What are the restrictions, if any, on placement? - The ceiling height is 79" tall. Taking into account the height of the table (which can be lowered to 25" high), the projector should be able to display a reasonably good quality HD image within the 5'x3' space mounted on the ceiling, meaning the projection distance is limited to the space between the ceiling and the table (54 inches) minus the size of the projector itself. For a projector that's 10" deep, mounted on the ceiling and pointing down, that means I've probably got a throw distance of about 44" to work with. Other - Exact sizes are ideals, not requirements, and subject to being overruled by practical considerations. The size of the working table will be 48"x72", so a smaller or larger projected image is okay, so long as it fits on the table. The projector will also be paired with a wiimote whiteboard setup using the same space to allow the projection to be manipulated with an IR pen. Light levels in the basement are generally low. In my initial investigations, I've been looking at the BenQ W1080ST, but the projection calculator at projectorcentral.com doesn't go down to a throw distance less than 4 feet (and based on the dimensions of the W1080ST, the best I could manage would be around 42-44"). Also when shopping around, the BenQ HT1085ST was available slightly cheaper and appears to be equivalent to the W1080ST, but I have no idea what the difference is besides the 1085ST apparently being a newer and slightly brighter model. I don't have a preference towards any particular brand; these are just two that seemed like they were close to meeting my needs and were around the $800-1000 price point. I'd appreciate any recommendations, advice, or even just suggestions on what to look for. My backup alternative is to build an HDTV into the table surface, which may not play quite as nicely with the wiimote whiteboard setup and would make the whole table surface a great deal heavier - less than ideal in terms of being able to move it out of the way when it's not in use, but does neatly sidestep potential projector-specific headaches.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2016 22:56
|
|
|
I had a question very similar to yours earlier in the thread, so I'd be interested in hearing recommendations too. One option you can consider is a mirror in front of a ceiling-mounted unit to help with the throw distance issue, i.e. projecting horizontally and reflect it 90 degrees down to the table. I think they also make matte dry erase boards that are meant to function as screens as well, but that make be a corporate business sort of thing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2016 00:13
|
|
|
DarkHorse posted:I had a question very similar to yours earlier in the thread, so I'd be interested in hearing recommendations too. One option you can consider is a mirror in front of a ceiling-mounted unit to help with the throw distance issue, i.e. projecting horizontally and reflect it 90 degrees down to the table. I think they also make matte dry erase boards that are meant to function as screens as well, but that make be a corporate business sort of thing. My concern isn't necessarily that the throw distance is too short, per se - the W1080ST has a minimum throw distance of 2 feet, and eyeballing the values on the calculator tells me that if I mounted it vertically the distance ought to be just about the right size for the table. A few inches here or there isn't going to kill me when all is said and done. However, reviewing discussions of other people who have done similar things in the past shows a surprising number of people who ditched the projector setup and straight up moved to a TV lying on its back mounted in a tabletop. The latter would be more challenging, as I lack the tools to do much in the way of building my own custom table, but it might be the better option, though not the easier one.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2016 07:57
|
|
|
Probably because projectors are designed to be used in the dark and tables aren't.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2016 13:21
|
|
|
Cool thread this is the first time I've seen it. I've been exclusively a projector user for 3 years. It doesn't seem like there's much conversation on building your own screens? I started off with a nice reflective paint (super white or something from Sherwin Williams), but then I used the Carl Ofet guide here: http://www.carlofet.com/build-your-own-projector-screen/ to build my own. So I have a roughly 120" screen and it was just under $100 for a blackout cloth build. Painted:  Moved from that place and I got tired of repainting walls. Hence the screen build... Mid build with the screen:  First hanging:  Finished:    It's not as perfect as say a store bought screen, but it reflects well and I rarely build stuff so I know it wasn't very difficult. edit: forgot the projector - I'm running an Epson 8350. Knyteguy fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Apr 25, 2016 |
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2016 21:48
|
|
|
Is the Sony LCD series anything special for the $2k price tag or is that price paying for the name? http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-3d-lcd-home-theater-projector-black/6359019.p?id=1219207613196&skuId=6359019 Im about 6 months out from building a home theatre system and that's probably at my upper limit for the projector. I set up my dad's theater with the epson 8350 which has been nice, so I do have experience with that line for reference.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2016 00:10
|
|
|
Knyteguy posted:So I have a roughly 120" screen and it was just under $100 for a blackout cloth build. That's pretty cool. How long did it take you to build?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2016 05:29
|
|
|
pgroce posted:That's pretty cool. How long did it take you to build? Thanks. It only took about half a Saturday to build and mount once I got the supplies. There was a lot of time spent in the planning though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2016 16:26
|
|
|
What did you use to get those drill holes angled in the wood? I just run poo poo home as it tears through.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2016 20:52
|
|
|
Drill guide / drill guide block right? I always just jam that fucker sideways also.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2016 22:05
|
|
|
Olesh posted:My concern isn't necessarily that the throw distance is too short, per se - the W1080ST has a minimum throw distance of 2 feet, and eyeballing the values on the calculator tells me that if I mounted it vertically the distance ought to be just about the right size for the table. A few inches here or there isn't going to kill me when all is said and done. I know what you mean, and I've thought much the same thing. I was pretty interested in this solution, and as long as you have space to work you can probably rent the necessary tools relatively cheaply. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=spdescYFqIE
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2016 22:20
|
|
|
Aeka 2.0 posted:What did you use to get those drill holes angled in the wood? I just run poo poo home as it tears through. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J43A7W It looks like Harbor Freight has an option also: http://www.harborfreight.com/angle-drill-guide-95622.html revmoo posted:Drill guide / drill guide block right? I used the jig, but it looks a guide like Harbor Freight offers above would work too. The jig was nice for consistency once I figured it out.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2016 22:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 04:37 |
|
|
Knyteguy posted:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J43A7W Oh wow, thanks. I'm currently working on a few things and was wondering if there was a better way, and there is!
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2016 20:43
|
|