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lilljonas posted:How are you basing yours? Actually ordered regimental movement trays for cav and inf from warbases.co.uk I went with 20mm for troops, 25mm for lvl 1 and 2 leaders, with larger for lvl 3s (40s/50s with diorama) 20x40mm pills for cav, with associated trays...you know I will just post a pic tonight, probably easier. all I have to say was it was worth it, the Warbases stuff is really nice.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:35
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spectralent posted:2. Full lists are in the book. In the future it looks like we're getting decks of cards instead of actual books, which is, uh, but at least they seem to be independent things to buy.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:39
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berzerkmonkey posted:I know far more people with GHQ than 15mm cold war, so I'll probably go 6mm. If you're an Amerikkkan yanqui pig-dog, you should definitely go GHQ because it's cheaper for you than us Europoors. Grendel and HnR are much cheaper, but I'll shill GHQ quality and level of detail as if they paid me in minis. You'll have tanks so detailed 10mm players will cry and 15mm will strip paint from their Zvezda T-72B3s with their tears. Zvezda's HOT WAR line coincides with TY a little too neatly to be an accident, but their T-72 is wrong model and Abrams has less detail than Grendel 6mms. The Shilka is a beauty, tho.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:45
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berzerkmonkey posted:I'd probably rather have cards - the game rules shouldn't change, as we're not going to get any wacky 40K-like weapon upgrades. Any ideas if the cards will cover the already released sets, and will the decks be standalone, or can you only get them by purchasing a box of models? The soviet paras/hind company came as a pack of cards, apparently. I would assume the same will be true of britain and germany when they're out.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:47
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You Team Yankee folks could go smaller still you know...Pico Armor has wonderful minis in 3 mm that are more detailed than they have any right to be. I bought a bunch of Vietnam stuff from them (and talked to the owner at Little Wars for hours, great guy). http://picoarmor.com/pico-products-detail.cfm?id=9&pid=1904&p=Modern%20Miniatures%20-%20American&n=Tank-M1A2%20TUSK%20%2815%20pcs%29&m=4
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Apr 26, 2016 15:55
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Mr.Booger posted:You Team Yankee folks could go smaller still you know...Pico Armor has wonderful minis in 3 mm that are more detailed than they have any right to be. I bought a bunch of Vietnam stuff from them (and talked to the owner at Little Wars for hours, great guy). Is that otriad ozmy stuff or am i mistaken?
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Apr 26, 2016 16:08
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I believe so, ya
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Apr 26, 2016 16:11
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JcDent posted:Zvezda's HOT WAR line spectralent posted:The soviet paras/hind company came as a pack of cards, apparently. I would assume the same will be true of britain and germany when they're out. Yeah, I think that's more of a supplement though. I'm sure future model releases will be the only way to get their respective cards though. I mean, they're a model company and they want to sell models... berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Apr 26, 2016 |
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Apr 26, 2016 19:52
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God, I hope not. At present they're doing well off the back of being a high quality and competitively priced option; moving to the cardboard DRM model would be shooting themselves in the foot.
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Apr 26, 2016 19:57
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Now that we mentioned pico armor - any ideas for two starter forces that I could model, print and cut out of paper to trial Fistful of TOWs rules to see if I like them before committing a harebrained 3mm project?
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Apr 26, 2016 19:58
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Is it feasible to play a game of something like Pike and Shotte, Black Powder, Lasalle, or TLF's large-scale games (also, how are these?) at 1:1 ratio of man-to-miniature in 6mm? I've only really got experience with 15-28mm. I was thinking it'd be doable just by scaling down the declared sizes of everything, so instead of being corps or army level it'd be reinforced regiment or at very large levels brigade scale, and each individual unit instead of being a battalion or regiment would be a company with a few stands of 20 men? Is there anything in the rules/minis that would make this unfeasible is what I'm asking.
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Apr 27, 2016 14:39
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I don't see why not. I bet your base frontage would turn out roughly the same dropping down to 6mm, which makes 1:1 more attractive. Typically, ranges in 28mm games are stupidly short, too, so you might not even need to adjust those. Maybe movement ranges.
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Apr 27, 2016 14:48
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krushgroove posted:Yeah even as the thread organizer I barely get anything painted for it! So I'm going to prime all my historical stuff, plus Zombicide figures because they're quick to do once they're primed (5 in 30 minutes, max) and just knock out the easy to paint models while I watch TV. Slight derail but how are you doing Zombicide figures in 6 minutes each? Quick two color base coat and dip or something?
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Apr 27, 2016 16:19
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I have been reading over the Sharp Practice 2 book, and only the War Store being out of stock of plastic Perry Brothers AWI guys has slowed my fall down a dangerous grog hole. Who knew reading about uniforms could be so good! 
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Apr 27, 2016 16:25
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Lord_Hambrose posted:I have been reading over the Sharp Practice 2 book, and only the War Store being out of stock of plastic Perry Brothers AWI guys has slowed my fall down a dangerous grog hole. If you like that, have I got something for you *opens trenchcoat, books fall out*
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Apr 27, 2016 16:29
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Pike and Shotte and Black Powder just care about the frontages of units, not the specific model count, so you can go hog wild. The thirty guys or whatever you model in 28mm ostensibly represents a couple hundred guys, so you could go 1:1 with 6mm guys on the same frontage. They also have guidelines for changing the scale in the back of the book-- my 6mm black powder armies have about half size frontages and we measure everything in cm. It works out to about a 1:2 ratio of models to how many guys would have actually been on the field.
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Apr 27, 2016 16:30
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nesbit37 posted:Slight derail but how are you doing Zombicide figures in 6 minutes each? Quick two color base coat and dip or something? Everything zenithal primed by airbrush, then I grab a handful of colors like blue, black, red, white, tan (or whatever) and clear red (for blood), quick application of blue on jeans, brown on shoes, red on ties, that sort of thing, keeping it real simple, add blood if you want then varnish the next day. They're only zombies,  not the game characters
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Apr 27, 2016 16:32
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So, with us being on the eve of a new Oath thread, and me getting the itch again; what is a good game system to pick up again? I will be visiting the US soon, but I don't think I'll be bringing all of my Flames stuff back with me. Preferably something small (I've been thinking of picking up something for CoC or BA), and mostly with the idea of making two armies so I can con people into playing the games. Though I might try to stick to 28mm/1:56 if I do, just for compatibility sake. Though all this talk of black powder era and fancy uniforms is making Sharp Practice tempting...
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Apr 27, 2016 17:23
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Lord_Hambrose posted:I have been reading over the Sharp Practice 2 book, and only the War Store being out of stock of plastic Perry Brothers AWI guys has slowed my fall down a dangerous grog hole. The Warlord/ Wargames Factory AWI are really good too.
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Apr 27, 2016 17:29
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YF19pilot posted:So, with us being on the eve of a new Oath thread, and me getting the itch again; what is a good game system to pick up again? I will be visiting the US soon, but I don't think I'll be bringing all of my Flames stuff back with me. Preferably something small (I've been thinking of picking up something for CoC or BA), and mostly with the idea of making two armies so I can con people into playing the games. Though I might try to stick to 28mm/1:56 if I do, just for compatibility sake. You can do CoC and BA at the same time, which is nice. I don't know if Sharp Practice shares a basing method with any other games, since Black Powder is the only one I've seen played and it uses multi-man basing.
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Apr 27, 2016 17:39
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YF19pilot posted:Though all this talk of black powder era and fancy uniforms is making Sharp Practice tempting... 6mm 19th century armies are the siren song of the hobby. Its just so easy to knock out a couple of opposing divisions and convert your friends over. That said, for maximum Fancy Uniforms, the 30 years war is ideal and was also one of the most tactically interesting eras of war in my opinion, since the rock paper scissors of pike/heavy cav/shot is a little trickier than line infantry/cav/artillery.
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Apr 27, 2016 17:46
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Lord_Hambrose posted:I have been reading over the Sharp Practice 2 book, and only the War Store being out of stock of plastic Perry Brothers AWI guys has slowed my fall down a dangerous grog hole. On a whim I priced up a bunch of Perry stuff directly from their site vs warstore...uhm, the pound is down, if you can wait a bit longer it is actually cheaper through Perry themselves atm (including the +25% for shipping even, still cheaper). Edit: for non-EU folks at least, VAT is still a thing
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Apr 27, 2016 19:34
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I'd say Wayland Games is the prime EU store, what with constant -20% of GW/Infinity/Perry pricing. ...anyone with experience in converting lists/playing 1:1 FFOT3?
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Apr 27, 2016 20:50
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I have four boxes of Perry Bros acw on the way. Gonna figure out how to base them individually for Sharpe Practice but also use trays for Black Powder.
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Apr 28, 2016 00:15
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muggins posted:I have four boxes of Perry Bros acw on the way. Gonna figure out how to base them individually for Sharpe Practice but also use trays for Black Powder. All the lardies blog posts have them on little trays with cutouts for bases, they look like the litko rank trays: http://www.litko.net/products/Rank-Trays%2C-Multiple-Formations%2C-20mm-Circle-Bases.html I don't know if those are the correct frontage for Black Powder, though
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Apr 28, 2016 00:28
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Ok maybe I missed it in the last few pagesn but what is Sharp Practice? I've seen the nam mentioned a bunch of timesn but not much about it other than minis are based individually. Yes I could google it but  and I get goon opinions this way.
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Apr 28, 2016 00:43
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Been loving about with some FOW LIsts. Desperately trying to find some use for my Comets. Unfortunately, the 1420 pts limit for Late War means after buying 7 Comets (The bare minimum you need to field a Comet list), you've only got around 400 points left to spend. Anyone got any good lists? My two lists HQ - Comet 145 Combat Platoon - 3 Comet 435 Combat Platoon -3 Comet 435 Weapons Platoon - Rifle Platoon with LCV-4 Water Buffalo - 210 Support Platoon - Field Battery RA 185 Total 1410 pts No Recon and only 7 tanks. And only 4 loving platoons. Jesus Christ. The Other list I'm considering: HQ - Comet 145 Combat Platoon - 3 Comet 435 Combat Platoon -3 Comet 435 Weapons Platoon - Half Strength Rifle Platoon 140 Support Platoon - 15th/19th Hussars Recce 90 Limited Air Support 170 Total 1415 pts There is Recon, but now I'm running a half-strength Rifle Platoon (And Brit Rifle Platoons are already tiny), and now I have no reliable templates. Having Typhoons is nice though. I'm still only on 7 tanks and 4 recon, and they're not even great tanks. Don't get me wrong, Comets seem good, but FA8 doesn't seem like it'll stand up well to AT 13 Easy Eights, AT 14 Panthers, or AT 15 Fireflies.....
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Apr 28, 2016 01:50
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The comet armoured lists are kinda garbage, unfortunately. You really need the lorried rifles list that gets them that I think is digital-exclusive to make best use of them in anything but the bigger games.
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Apr 28, 2016 01:56
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spectralent posted:The comet armoured lists are kinda garbage, unfortunately. You really need the lorried rifles list that gets them that I think is digital-exclusive to make best use of them in anything but the bigger games. I do have the digital exclusive lists. Will try loving about with Lorried Rifles on Forces of War. I find it really annoying that BF didn't put Lorried Rifles in the goddamn book. They're pretty much the exact same list as Rifles, but with slightly different support options (moar tanks). Hell, in some books (e.g. Market Garden) they don't even bother making the distinction.
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Apr 28, 2016 02:16
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tallkidwithglasses posted:6mm 19th century armies are the siren song of the hobby. Its just so easy to knock out a couple of opposing divisions and convert your friends over. If I go 17th century, I'll probably go Northern Wars and get By Fire and Sword to satisfy my ancestral Polish-Cossack blood. Though I'm sure Sharp Practice would be a good segue into that, too, so that's making it seem like a good deal.
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Apr 28, 2016 02:25
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These are my Lorried rifles lists: Rifle Company HQ - 30 pts Lorried Rifle Platoon - 180 pts Lorried Rifle Platoon - 180 pts Lorried Rifle Platoon - 180 pts Lorried UC Platoon - 90 pts Lorried AT Platoon (4 6-pdrs) - 140 pts Armoured Platoon - 3 Comets - 435 pts 4 Gun Battery, Field Battery, RA - 185 pts. I could swap the AT out to go for the full 8 guns, but that's probably risky, as I'm out of AT assets once my Comets go pop. Alternatively, Rifle Company HQ - 30 pts Lorried Rifle Platoon - 180 pts Reduced Lorried Rifle Platoon - 140 pts Reduced Lorried Rifle Platoon - 140 pts Lorried UC Platoon - 90 pts Lorried AT Platoon (4 6-pdrs) - 140 pts Lorried Mortar Platoon (4 3inch mortars) - 120 pts Armoured Platoon - 4 Comets -560 pts Also exactly 1420. Also, seriously, what's with the 1420pts point total? It seems really low.
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Apr 28, 2016 02:26
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I'd keep the guns, honestly; the british staff team brings a lot, though it is a tradeoff between the rerolled save and the easier time concealing yourself. It's not like soviets, germans, or most of the minor nations where mortars are a clearly superior option for fire support.
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Apr 28, 2016 02:41
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spectralent posted:I'd keep the guns, honestly; the british staff team brings a lot, though it is a tradeoff between the rerolled save and the easier time concealing yourself. It's not like soviets, germans, or most of the minor nations where mortars are a clearly superior option for fire support. Do you get any benefit from the staff team at 4 guns, other than All Guns Repeat? It seems most of it is from going up to 8 guns.
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Apr 28, 2016 02:48
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Mr.Booger posted:On a whim I priced up a bunch of Perry stuff directly from their site vs warstore...uhm, the pound is down, if you can wait a bit longer it is actually cheaper through Perry themselves atm (including the +25% for shipping even, still cheaper). Oh wow. Thanks for the tip! I just placed an order for a box of British and a box of Colonial guys. The wait will just give me more time to decide how to paint them up. 
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Apr 28, 2016 03:06
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tomdidiot posted:Do you get any benefit from the staff team at 4 guns, other than All Guns Repeat? It seems most of it is from going up to 8 guns. You get the British artillery special rules, including the one where a repeat bombardment gets to force things hit by it to reroll successful saves (and IIRC one or two others, but they're less important). For most armies, the ability to repeat bombardments isn't all that useful, and germany and the soviets don't have many artillery special rules worth mentioning, so for them it's usually best to go for the lighter guns that don't have the heavy gun team concealing/digging in rules, unless you're going full-on arty party, but for the yanks and brits there's some serious advantage to having a proper poo poo-sheller battery. EDIT: Essentially you should usually take guns that are as light as possible while still throwing smoke. You fill 2/3 of the important things that your arty is doing, that way, while retaining the ability to dig in and become much harder to kill (or, if you somehow get a light gun battery like nebs that can smoke, you can just stop shooting for a turn if things look dicey; possibly while digging in!). EDIT 2: The exception is if you get an option for a 2+ FP bombardment, but these tend to be pricey guns that need you to have bought a previous battery so you tend to be at the more specialist arty party end of listbuilding anyway. 2+ guns can do serious damage to dug-in infantry, though, and have reasonably good results against tanks that go beyond annoyance. spectralent fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Apr 28, 2016 |
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Apr 28, 2016 03:08
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The little talk of 30 years war in here has got me looking at it again. I have asked this question before about 10mm, but for 15mm, who should I be looking at for figures? I know there are some for Old Glory 15s, but is that the same company that does Old Glory 25s? My thought is not, since one is in Michigan and the other is in Pennsylvania. It matters since I do have a membership of the Old Glory Army that gets me 40% off their stuff till this fall. I don't know why but it seems difficult to pick a range for this period other than just buying English Civil War stuff unless it really is that interchangeable.
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Apr 28, 2016 03:23
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spectralent posted:You get the British artillery special rules, including the one where a repeat bombardment gets to force things hit by it to reroll successful saves (and IIRC one or two others, but they're less important). I just went and looked up mike Target in my Main rulebook. Apparently, in the upgrade to version 3, all British batteries get mike target, not just the 8 gun batteries. Shows how out of the loop I've been with Flames (I started collecting/learned the rules just as Version 2 came out). Makes those stupid 25 pounders a lot more attractive.
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Apr 28, 2016 03:31
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Yep, Mike Target and a free reroll to range in if it's a staff team gun. I should probably lay out my general philosophy of indirect fire. Indirect fire, for most armies, is about disrupting the enemy more than it is about actually killing anything, usually via pinning and smoke, and sometimes via the threat of a repeat bombardment. Most guns, though, have somewhat anemic qualities on a repeat bombardment (typically they're hitting maybe four teams, have a 3 or 4+ chance to hit them, they roll a 3+ save or a 2-3=glance armour save, and confirm on a 4-5+; you'd expect to half kill a stand every turn, with similar odds on most tanks), so it's usually annoying rather than dangerous. Pinning and smoke are typically far more dramatic effects. So, you want something that can indirect fire and drop smoke. Most armies have these in medium gun form or mortar form, but there's also field guns, howitzers, etc that most lists have. However, gun teams are also very vulnerable: They're almost always unable to go concealed in the open (only light and man packed can) and some (heavy and immobile) can't even go concealed when they dig in. Most of them tend to have gun shields, so digging in is only doing them any benefit if something flanks them. They usually have much longer ranges, but 48" gets you from one end of the board to the other anyway and anything over 56" inches is basically never going to come up. So the main thing we can compare them on is effectiveness at killing things (answer for most indirect fire is "not much"), cost (lighter guns are usually cheaper), and crucially, survivability: The enemy will get to your artillery parks far more often than is comfortable. While efficacy and cost are usually slightly in a lighter gun's favour, this is where they really steal the show, in my opinion: man packed and light guns can go to ground (and potentially dig in same-turn, if they don't have gun shields) when things present themselves as threats. A medium or lower gun can dig-in turn 1, and enjoy concealed and GTG in much the same fashion if it's at risk. Heavy guns, i.e. most "proper" artillery? You're not concealed, so you can't also be gone to ground, unless your deployment area was very forgiving. At best, you've refrained from firing anyway and taken the 3+ gun save, but you're almost certainly getting hit on 5s at best, and more likely 3s or 4s (depending on training), and potentially a lot of them. Now, the americans and british have some special rules that help with this, principally rerolling saves (the fact they're usually vets and get ranging rerolls doesn't hurt). 66% of infantry teams hit by a bombardment usually save, but with the reroll that's gone down to 44%; this is a pretty big swing. The other major thing that affects it is firepower: 4-5+ firepower cuts your post-save numbers in half and is one of the major reasons shelling infantry and tanks is usually relatively uneventful. If you've got 2+ guns, like 155mms in a US arty park, you basically keep your results. At this stage, repeat bombardments get nasty: You can easily be eating 1-2 teams per turn, though obviously the more you kill the less effective this gets. This is the main reason you tend to see American, or more rarely British artillery parks, instead of German, Soviet, or minor nation ones (also the fact that the yanks have some lists with something like 4 indirect fire guns).
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Apr 28, 2016 04:10
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Galaga Galaxian posted:Ok maybe I missed it in the last few pagesn but what is Sharp Practice?
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Apr 28, 2016 04:15
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nesbit37 posted:The little talk of 30 years war in here has got me looking at it again. I have asked this question before about 10mm, but for 15mm, who should I be looking at for figures? I know there are some for Old Glory 15s, but is that the same company that does Old Glory 25s? My thought is not, since one is in Michigan and the other is in Pennsylvania. It matters since I do have a membership of the Old Glory Army that gets me 40% off their stuff till this fall. I don't know why but it seems difficult to pick a range for this period other than just buying English Civil War stuff unless it really is that interchangeable.
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