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Apr 27, 2016 21:04
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 16:14 |
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Now that my quad is assembled and i manage to control it with the transmitter, what else is there to do? (except actually flying it) I see people talk about tuning and i have seen expressions such as "expo" and "pid". Is this stuff i need to do to get an interesting experience flying a quad as a total beginner or is this for intermediate pilots?
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Apr 28, 2016 09:38
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Ineptitude posted:Now that my quad is assembled and i manage to control it with the transmitter, what else is there to do? (except actually flying it) If it flys ok, and doesn't wobble when you punch the throttle then just go out and fly. You can worry about these things later. PID = numbers used to tune the algorithm that the flight controller uses to make the quad do what you're telling it to do. Expo = changes the response to stick inputs so that the they are less sensitive in the middle of the input sticks, and more sensitive on the outer limits of the sticks. Can be used to make it less twitchy when you're making small movements with the sticks.
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Apr 28, 2016 10:50
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Slash posted:If it flys ok, and doesn't wobble when you punch the throttle then just go out and fly. You can worry about these things later. Expo is the RC term for flight control curves, if you're familiar with flight sims at all.
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Apr 28, 2016 17:22
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Flight stabilization in a quad is done using PID controllers, whose terms need to be tuned if you need precise control. If you fly autolevel, default settings will make it fly well enough. If you plan to fly rate mode, they definitely need tuning, so that the thing initiates and stops rotations quickly (P), precise and without wobbling (D), as well have it maintain attitude over time (I). The OpenPilot derivates of firmwares and GCS have autotuning modes, that usually spit out pretty decent terms for the PID controllers.
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Apr 28, 2016 17:52
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Combat Pretzel posted:If you plan to fly rate mode, they definitely need tuning, so that the thing initiates and stops rotations quickly (P), precise and without wobbling (D), as well have it maintain attitude over time (I). And this is why I suck at rate mode on anything but the nanoQX. Tuning time..
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Apr 28, 2016 18:19
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Yeah, first time I ever dabbled in rate, I stuck to some tweaked defaults and it flew like rear end. Plenty of issues with my FPV gear and then winter had me avoid it for a long while. I only gave it a shot recently again, but used dRonin's autotune instead of fiddling around in the backyard, and the difference was day and night. If your firmware of choice doesn't have autotune, look up tuning guides on Youtube. It essentially involves jerking your quad around its axes (and later have it fly distances at an angle) and try to attain a certain behavior. If you have a bunch of dials on your remote, you can usually set up live tuning of the PID terms. Both *flight and OpenPilot derivates support modes like this.
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Apr 28, 2016 19:01
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I've yet to actually fly my big quad fpv (just need to apply some liquid electrical tape and shrink strap my rx antennas before the first hover), and I feel like you need to be able to fly well to tune. For a novice it's a little confusing if you should just start right off the bat with stock values and learn how to fly fpv or fiddle with tuning immediately On a side note , I got my new escs and motors installed last night and everything seems squared away. This diatone plug and play feels like it's far from that. Others are complaining about twitching escs with oneshot too.. And the lack of replacement parts. In hindsight I should have bought a frame with detachable arms and common parts (non integrated pdb for example) for my first quad, I got ahead of myself. Made a bunch of noob mistakes and I now see why people can get discouraged and frustrated. I've learned a ton loving this thing up and trying to repair it though, I'm not scared to build my own now when I break this one. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Apr 28, 2016 |
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Apr 28, 2016 19:06
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Google Butt posted:I've yet to actually fly my big quad fpv (just need to apply some liquid electrical tape and shrink strap my rx antennas before the first hover), and I feel like you need to be able to fly well to tune. For a novice it's a little confusing if you should just start right off the bat with stock values and learn how to fly fpv or fiddle with tuning immediately
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Apr 28, 2016 20:38
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Combat Pretzel posted:The stock PIDs are usually a little anemic, resulting in a floaty feel, i.e. quad response feels sluggish. For autolevel, this doesn't matter that much, it'll be flyable. You can get a feel for FPV in that mode and have some initial fun. Sluggish response in rate mode asks for trouble. After doing some FPV, it'd be best to spend half an hour tuning the PIDs and then get used to rate, which is more fun. I'm planning on jumping straight into rather mode with an angle mode oh poo poo button. I've been flying my modified nano fpv in rate a bunch and I'm hooked. I've read betaflight feels okay stock, but I'm going to order that otg cable for my tablet just in case. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Apr 28, 2016 |
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Apr 28, 2016 21:00
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Google Butt posted:I've yet to actually fly my big quad fpv (just need to apply some liquid electrical tape and shrink strap my rx antennas before the first hover), and I feel like you need to be able to fly well to tune. For a novice it's a little confusing if you should just start right off the bat with stock values and learn how to fly fpv or fiddle with tuning immediately You won't break that frame, and detachable arms break far easier because of the stress points. Integrated PDBs are pretty awesome now. The twitchy ESC thing is usually bheli tuning, esc calibration, and setting the throttle minmax settings. Ive got two Tyrants and ill probably never go back to the old way.
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Apr 28, 2016 22:56
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Philthy posted:You won't break that frame, and detachable arms break far easier because of the stress points. Integrated PDBs are pretty awesome now. The twitchy ESC thing is usually bheli tuning, esc calibration, and setting the throttle minmax settings. Ive got two Tyrants and ill probably never go back to the old way. Yeah I actually reduced the min command and that helped, but I burned out one so I replaced them all, couldn't find any real detail on them to find a matching replacement. That's good to hear though! Diatone has rad customer service though, one of the HK guys has been working with me and they're even sending me some spare escs and a motor. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Apr 28, 2016 |
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Apr 28, 2016 23:03
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Does anyone actually bother registering their quadcopter, or call every helipad within 5 miles before flying?
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Apr 28, 2016 23:48
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yes, no. unless its a major airport thats going to affect geofencing, then i dont even think about it
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Apr 28, 2016 23:50
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BgRdMchne posted:Does anyone actually bother registering their quadcopter, or call every helipad within 5 miles before flying? lol no. at least not for something that i only fly at parks and below the tree line.
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Apr 28, 2016 23:51
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Nerobro posted:And this is why I suck at rate mode on anything but the nanoQX. Do you have a way to switch to rate mode in the nanoQX from a full size spectrum Tx? Just wondering before I dig up the little bitty Tx that came with the nano to try it there.
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Apr 28, 2016 23:56
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patentmagus posted:Do you have a way to switch to rate mode in the nanoQX from a full size spectrum Tx? Just wondering before I dig up the little bitty Tx that came with the nano to try it there. http://paulnurkkala.com/blade-nanoqx-upgrades/ if you have a taranis
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Apr 28, 2016 23:58
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patentmagus posted:Do you have a way to switch to rate mode in the nanoQX from a full size spectrum Tx? Just wondering before I dig up the little bitty Tx that came with the nano to try it there. For the inductrix, using a DX6 I flip switch D down then back up, I'm guessing it's the same for the nanoQX.
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Apr 29, 2016 00:04
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On my DX8 it's the flap switch.
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Apr 29, 2016 00:41
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Quick question, I'm building a quad for a friend who is working on their CS project. They're using an ESC's BEC to power the APM. I've always used a dedicated BEC and never actually tried powering it off the ESC. Right now, I have the ESC on output 1 as the power, I pulled the power pins on the other three PWM cables. Does it matter which output I use to power it and should the jumper be in or out?
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Apr 29, 2016 01:43
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BgRdMchne posted:Does anyone actually bother registering their quadcopter, or call every helipad within 5 miles before flying? Registered it. But unless I'm near a major airport, I wont call. If we had to call every helipad/private/small public/emergency landing field/marina to fly for five minutes, it would be absolutely insane and I refuse to believe that was their intent to have BedBuglet posted:Quick question, I'm building a quad for a friend who is working on their CS project. They're using an ESC's BEC to power the APM. I've always used a dedicated BEC and never actually tried powering it off the ESC. Right now, I have the ESC on output 1 as the power, I pulled the power pins on the other three PWM cables. Does it matter which output I use to power it and should the jumper be in or out? Nope, shouldn't matter which one you use. You can have them all connected and it should be fine as well Edit: if they're linear BECs. Philthy fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Apr 29, 2016 |
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Apr 29, 2016 03:27
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On the Naze32 anyway, those pins for 5v are actually connected. You can use the spare ones to plug in like a lap timing transponder, and it will get its power from the connected ESC's BEC.
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Apr 29, 2016 04:04
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BedBuglet posted:Quick question, I'm building a quad for a friend who is working on their CS project. They're using an ESC's BEC to power the APM. I've always used a dedicated BEC and never actually tried powering it off the ESC. Right now, I have the ESC on output 1 as the power, I pulled the power pins on the other three PWM cables. Does it matter which output I use to power it and should the jumper be in or out? If it has a power monitoring module use that to power the APM.
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Apr 29, 2016 04:06
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helno posted:If it has a power monitoring module use that to power the APM. I normally do with my drones but this isn't mine. They're doing a quick project involving controlling the drone over leap motion. They had me come in and do the build/tell them the parts they needed. They already had LBECs in their ESCs so there was no reason/time for them to buy a PM module. I'd just never used an ESC for power and the APM can be finicky with power so I wanted to make sure I didn't accidentally fry a bunch of college student's final project. Philthy posted:Nope, shouldn't matter which one you use. You can have them all connected and it should be fine as well Edit: if they're linear BECs. As I recall, there are possible serious issues with doing that. Not sure but I seem to remember that the ESC with the highest voltage (since they aren't exactly 5 v) will end up providing power but the ESC's will end up fighting over which one actually provides power as they heat up and you can end up with a brown out. That said, I'm fairly sure that's mostly just an issue with low quality BECs.
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Apr 29, 2016 04:47
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Got the Tyrant hovering in the garage  Thanks again for the help everyone. I've got 2 Tattu 1800's and 3 1300 graphenes ready to go for the maiden tomorrow.
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Apr 29, 2016 08:57
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I need to cool my poo poo! 
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Apr 29, 2016 12:46
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BedBuglet posted:I normally do with my drones but this isn't mine. They're doing a quick project involving controlling the drone over leap motion. They had me come in and do the build/tell them the parts they needed. They already had LBECs in their ESCs so there was no reason/time for them to buy a PM module. I'd just never used an ESC for power and the APM can be finicky with power so I wanted to make sure I didn't accidentally fry a bunch of college student's final project. I've powered many an APM off an ESC. What you are doing will work fine. You can use any of the ESCs for power.
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Apr 29, 2016 21:51
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Well, the first day out was a success, flew 10 batteries in acro + airmode, split-s's everywhere, flips etc.. even a little sim time pays off apparently. Only 1 bad crash, I got cocky and flew into this tight corridor at the local school and bounced off the wall onto concrete pretty good. Props are little dinged up but everything else looks good, which is slightly comforting because it seemed like a hard hit. After my first 5 batteries on stock pids I bumped up the roll/pitch/yaw rates .1 and it felt okay, thinking about trying the dRonin autotune tomorrow.
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Apr 30, 2016 03:40
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BgRdMchne posted:Does anyone actually bother registering their quadcopter, or call every helipad within 5 miles before flying? I registered and I only contact non-private airports with manned control towers as listed on airmap.io, I don't bother with any private strip, helipad, or an airport without a manned tower though I still keep my distance from those places (at least a mile). When I started I tried collecting phone numbers and contact information for the numerous private grass strips, helipads, and other bullshit around me but I gave up on that and flying is a lot less stressful now only dealing with towers I can contact prior to flight. At the very least I figure if towers get inundated with useless RC aircraft notifications it will help us toward getting that regulation removed or altered. For starters they should go back to the 3 mile radius, and no notification unless flying over 400 feet within those 3 miles. The B4UFLY app was particularly awful in terms of what they consider a prohibited area and I don't think that was accidental. But I don't think when they came up with these regulations they were considering the limitations of most toy based quadcopters with extremely limited range and battery life. The Shep fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Apr 30, 2016 |
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Apr 30, 2016 08:56
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The outer most wire on the balance plug (opposite from the ground one) is pretty much connected to the main power lead, right?
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Apr 30, 2016 15:20
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Combat Pretzel posted:The outer most wire on the balance plug (opposite from the ground one) is pretty much connected to the main power lead, right? Yeah. The ground wire and opposite wires of the balance plug are connected to positive and negative of the battery terminals.
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Apr 30, 2016 15:44
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Cool, thanks. It's to hook up a voltage divider to feed into the FC, to get battery voltage to show in the OSD. Didn't want to take apart the quad to solder it.
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Apr 30, 2016 16:31
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What are the thoughts of eachine 250 quads? Looking at getting one of these ARF kits http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=EACF250ARF
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Apr 30, 2016 17:43
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I think Bruce has a review or two of the eachine quads, check out his YouTube channel rcmodelreviews. If I remember correctly, the newer releases are far better than the original
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May 1, 2016 00:23
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I saw a Walkera Runner 250 at Winners the other day for 299.99 Winners is a canadian clothing store, I think theyre called Marshalls in the US
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May 1, 2016 06:19
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Now that I have battery voltage in my OSD, I'm pretty disappointed by these Multistar batteries. They sag like a motherfucker under medium load. Take-off and instant hover, they go from 12.4V to 10.8V. I mean, I was aware they'd do that, but didn't expect it to be that bad.
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May 1, 2016 13:03
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At this point, I think I'd only ever bother with graphene and maybe the turnigy nanotech for cheap multicopter batteries from Hking. I have some zippy for the tricopter that im not fully disappointed with, and some multistar high capacity stuff because what's the alternative? (The alternative is the low c graphene batteries now)
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May 1, 2016 13:13
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What else are some decent but light batteries?
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May 1, 2016 14:11
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I have some rmrc orange series I like; popular high c batteries include bonka, glacier, rebel, dinogy, tattu. most of the c ratings on these are inflated however. nanotech are ok but they dont have the lifespan of others I've been told moron izzard fucked around with this message at 18:09 on May 1, 2016 |
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May 1, 2016 17:59
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 16:14 |
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http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_121&product_id=347 I use these all the time. I've never had a voltage drop with these, I usually fly around 15-20 amps with up to 80 amp bursts according to my osd.
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May 1, 2016 18:07
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