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inkblottime posted:Stupid question but I haven't changed brakes since the early 90's when you had to practically wear a haz-mat suit. It's a hell of a lot better, but still spray poo poo down with a (reasonably less toxic) brake cleaner. Inhaling dust in general isn't great for you. Newer pad materials are just less wildly carcinogenic.
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Apr 28, 2016 09:30
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Next stupid question! Would a 1987 GM v6 4.3L out of a c10 drop into an 84 s10 without too much trouble? It comes with a th350 transmission, but I'd like to keep the 5 speed in the s10 if at all possible.
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Apr 28, 2016 12:48
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As long as they are similar fuel injection setups and wiring it shouldn't be a problem.
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Apr 28, 2016 20:35
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Nubile Hillock posted:Next stupid question! Would a 1987 GM v6 4.3L out of a c10 drop into an 84 s10 without too much trouble? It comes with a th350 transmission, but I'd like to keep the 5 speed in the s10 if at all possible. That generation was available with that motor starting in '88, so I can't imagine the engine bay is significantly different. You might have to swap the oil pan to clear the front crossmember depending on how the C10 is set up, but it wouldn't be a major project at all. TBI is a joke to adapt, just swap the ecu (does your truck even have an ecu?), it's like 10 wires max. I mean you can get kits for a 350 for that truck, the 4.3 is just a 350 minus two cylinders so it should be even easier.
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Apr 28, 2016 20:44
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Enourmo posted:That generation was available with that motor starting in '88, so I can't imagine the engine bay is significantly different. You might have to swap the oil pan to clear the front crossmember depending on how the C10 is set up, but it wouldn't be a major project at all. TBI is a joke to adapt, just swap the ecu (does your truck even have an ecu?), it's like 10 wires max. I did some more digging throughout the day and it turns out in the particular truck I want the swap won't work. Apparently, the 2.8L v6 was a 60 degree motor and used a transmission bolt pattern that was different than the 90 degree 2.5L. Also, apparently, the 4.3L v6 from the c10s was never mated to a manual transmission. I'm probably going to get it and drive the poo poo out of it until the 2.8 croaks and then just drop a 305 in there.
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Apr 29, 2016 02:50
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Nubile Hillock posted:I'm probably going to get it and drive the poo poo out of it until the 2.8 croaks and then just drop a 305 in there. Don't. Like, even if you have one on hand and it's free, it's a questionable swap; absolutely not worth spending money on. Only do it if you want the sound and fuel consumption of a V8 without all that pesky horsepower. Comedy option: The LS4 uses the 60 degree bolt pattern. 
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Apr 29, 2016 03:32
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Nubile Hillock posted:I did some more digging throughout the day and it turns out in the particular truck I want the swap won't work. Apparently, the 2.8L v6 was a 60 degree motor and used a transmission bolt pattern that was different than the 90 degree 2.5L. Also, apparently, the 4.3L v6 from the c10s was never mated to a manual transmission. What the gently caress are you thinking? 60 degree chevy's bad... The 4.3L v6 from the c10 can go to the nv3500 without much effort, 700r4 auto, or 4l60e auto electronic. The 2.8L is bad. The 4.3L is ok if a direct swap but beyond that you are looking at about $3k for wiring harness, things, and lots of loving time to put a modern lsx. It was amazing dropping my 4.3L with 190hp to 350hp 5.3L and chirping in 3rd.
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Apr 29, 2016 04:18
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How likely is it that the AC will need refilling due to that the car has been standing for ~4 years without use, and not because there is an actual leak? Owner lists the classic "AC needs refill" in the ad, which usually means it's shitted itself, but in this case the car has been unused for 4 years. Also, isn't it odd that a CV-joint breaks, gets replaced and then breaks within a year?
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Apr 29, 2016 06:59
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refrigerant doesn't leak particularly faster when sitting, but it does naturally seep out over long periods of time. How old is the car?
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Apr 29, 2016 09:00
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MrOnBicycle posted:How likely is it that the AC will need refilling due to that the car has been standing for ~4 years without use, and not because there is an actual leak? First question: reasonably likely. If the AC isn't used regularly, the oil doesn't get pushed around the system and the seals can perish and let the magic gas out. Second question could easily be down to driver behaviour. I drove a Mazda 323 Turbo (very similar to this but with a TD04 turbo running 16psi) for eight years without losing a single CV joint. I sold it to a friend's little brother and I replaced three for him in the space of a year. Anyone who drives a powerful front wheel drive car and likes to floor it with the steering wheel cranked to full lock will break them on the regular. Memento fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Apr 29, 2016 |
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Apr 29, 2016 09:12
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Enourmo posted:refrigerant doesn't leak particularly faster when sitting, but it does naturally seep out over long periods of time. How old is the car? 2004 Alfa Romeo 156 with 87k miles on it (yes I know) Memento posted:First question: reasonably likely. If the AC isn't used regularly, the oil doesn't get pushed around the system and the seals can perish and let the magic gas out. I see. Which means it's probably been driven hard. After doing some quick rough calculations: It's $1500, and with transport + fix it up + sort the import I'd probably spend another $1500, which would make it 2/3 of the price of most with the same year / miles. It's too big a risk, since on the pictures it has lovely rims and lovely sound system stuff. No leather neither, so it's not worth the risk. Don't really want to deal with a car that hasn't been driven for ~4 years neither, that is too far away to go check out. Thanks for the info though, I'll keep those things in mind for the next time. VVVVV: Yeah you're right. It's off the table. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Apr 29, 2016 |
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Apr 29, 2016 09:26
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MrOnBicycle posted:2004 Alfa Romeo 156 with 87k miles on it (yes I know) Yeah, that's gonna be more than $1500 to get back on the road properly. Everything rubber is going to need to be replaced from tires to AC o-rings and hoses. You may only replace the obvious stuff at first and think you got away with it. Then after the first few heat cycles it's going to start leaking more thing in and out than an Alfa normally does and you'll be right back in there replacing more poo poo.
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Apr 29, 2016 13:33
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2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS I'm replacing the gear oil (it has never been changed). And I'm pretty sure that this is the procedure that applies to my model. Is there anything wrong with using an old handsoap pump connected to fuel line tubing to pump the new gear oil into the reservoir (pic below)? The bottle provided by the dealership is way too large to slither into the undercarriage and pour in like the video shows. Do I need to be concerned about this pump putting excess air into the gearbox, or something? 
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Apr 29, 2016 17:08
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melon cat posted:2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS That might work, but it might be slow as gently caress. You can get a cheap pump of similar design at any auto parts store, and it will come with tubing cut to fit a few common bottle sizes, and actually be designed to move oil.
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Apr 29, 2016 20:04
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To be honest you'd be better served getting a drinks bottle and hacking the top out so the pipe fits snugly. At least then you'd get it done quicker. *edit: or that ^^
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Apr 29, 2016 20:09
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Normal garden hose fits just right in most gearbox fill holes. Run it up and out to somewhere convenient in the engine bay, stick a funnel in it, and pour away.
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Apr 29, 2016 21:19
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Christobevii3 posted:What the gently caress are you thinking? 60 degree chevy's bad... Just going with cheapest locally available options. Don't have to worry about harnesses too much, it's all carbureted. For what the guy's selling it for, I think I'm gonna give replacing the two-piece rear seal a shot and get at least a few years out of it. 305s and 4.3 v6s are super cheap, one guy was just selling his leak-free 4.3 with the TH350 for $150. It would be kinda pointless to do all that work for no real performance upgrades though...
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Apr 30, 2016 02:29
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They're cheap for a loving reason.
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Apr 30, 2016 02:37
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Edit: Problem solved. It was for the AC. The more you know. I blew up my engine mudding (4.0l SOHC, 2008 ranger FX4), and so a replacement engine is being installed. However, we have this spare plug coming off of the charging harness. It's a 2 prong plug with 2 wires. The situation is made more difficult because we're installing a supercharger at the same time, so we're not quite sure what we're missing. Any help would be greatly appreciated! (P.S Sorry for the blurry picture, I'm not good at mechanical work or photography) 
Seik fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Apr 30, 2016 |
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Apr 30, 2016 15:13
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How long are tires good for really? I'm seeing a wide range of opinions and results around whether the 3-5 year shelf life manufacturers claim for tires is complete bullshit or not, with plenty of people pushing them 10-20 years in low mileage situations without them all exploding into flames.
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Apr 30, 2016 16:57
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3-5 year shelf life, followed by however many years they're on the vehicle.
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Apr 30, 2016 19:48
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I have some lights that I want to test out before wiring them to the Jeep. Is there anything I can get that I can plug in at home and use to test out 12v stuff?
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Apr 30, 2016 20:01
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It all depends on how many amps they will draw, you can grab a 10 dollar DC power brick from radio shavk. You can use an old pc psu, pretty sure a 4 pin connector is 12v You can get a DC power box but they are like 50 bucks.. just do a quick touch to the battery if you want to test em.
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Apr 30, 2016 20:17
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Pryor on Fire posted:How long are tires good for really? I'm seeing a wide range of opinions and results around whether the 3-5 year shelf life manufacturers claim for tires is complete bullshit or not, with plenty of people pushing them 10-20 years in low mileage situations without them all exploding into flames. In addition to what Godholio said, the main thing is to just go case-by-case. Inspect your poo poo, and if they're getting down to the wear bars, replace them. If they're cracking significantly between the treads or on the sidewall, replace them. If they still look good because you park indoors and don't put a lot of miles on them, then keep on goin'. Just maybe check on them more often if they're pushing up there in years.
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Apr 30, 2016 21:04
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tater_salad posted:It all depends on how many amps they will draw, you can grab a 10 dollar DC power brick from radio shavk. PC PSUs often have features where they will shut off without load; the older they are, the less likely they are to have that, though. The color code for +12V is usually yellow, and ground is black. To activate most of the PSUs you'll find sitting around, you jumper the green wire in the big 20 or 24 pin connector to any of the black wires (one is conveniently right next to it).
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Apr 30, 2016 23:50
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I'm really not a car guy but I recently got a wild hair and threw konis yellows and eibach springs/sways into my 2005 base model civic couple and now I'm trying to talk myself into k swapping it. Is just buying an a2 from eBay and then sending it off to be remanned my best bet or is would the AI hive mind recommend something else entirely?
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May 1, 2016 01:08
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I put new rotors and shoes on the back end of my 2003 Dodge dakota. The parking brake wasn't holding after the new parts (or before for that matter) and i'm pretty sure i have the little shoe adjuster in the brakes set pretty well, so i figured i would have to give the tensioner nut on my parking brake cable a few turns. After a few turns i almost had it holding, although one side seemed a little tighter than the other, so i gave it a few more turns, went and checked the cables where they hook on behind the brakes and they had both popped off the hooks. Not only were they off the hooks, but they seemed too long (with the parking brake off) to even seat on the hooks. what the gently caress? It's pretty clear which direction to tighten that nut to pick up slack in the cable, how are the two ends of the parking brake now beyond the attachment point on the brakes?
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May 1, 2016 01:36
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DonkeyHotay posted:I'm really not a car guy but I recently got a wild hair and threw konis yellows and eibach springs/sways into my 2005 base model civic couple and now I'm trying to talk myself into k swapping it. How attached are you to your base model Civic? You need a lot more than just the engine and ECU. Here's an old writeup I found about it, no idea how current the info is. It's easier than a K swap into an older Civic, but it's not exactly something for babby's first engine swap.
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May 1, 2016 06:25
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Helped a buddy do his valve cover gaskets. He'd not done any real car work before, not that I'm any kind of expert. I was surprised at how he charged into taking everything apart without even knowing what it was, just to get it out of the way. Whatever, drat the torpedos. We hit a stuck bold and I had to go. He finished it without me, but it wouldn't start. I returned to help puzzle over it. "I think it's timing" he says, cuz he took off the distributor and "it turned." Ah... He didn't even want to take the distributor off again, cuz the bolt is under the intake manifold and didn't want to take that off again. So we rotated the plug wires. Its a 6 cylinder, so 360 / 6 = 60, but at worst will be halfway so should get us within 30 degrees right? Well it worked, got it running rough, so then we turned the distributor a bit till it ran smoother. Sooo, if it's sounding ok, not misfiring or anything, is it gonna do anything horrible if he drives it like that? 2001 nissan xterra and if it's not obvious from the hillbilly job; by "anything horrible" i mean "shooting connecting rods at pedestrians", not "shortening engine life dramatically" Epitope fucked around with this message at 09:37 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 09:27
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  Also my alternator got covered in PS fluid. How likely is it to be hosed? Should I chance it r replace it when I'm in there? stump fucked around with this message at 15:29 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 11:37
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Epitope posted:Helped a buddy do his valve cover gaskets. He'd not done any real car work before, not that I'm any kind of expert. I was surprised at how he charged into taking everything apart without even knowing what it was, just to get it out of the way. Whatever, drat the torpedos. We hit a stuck bold and I had to go. He finished it without me, but it wouldn't start. I returned to help puzzle over it. "I think it's timing" he says, cuz he took off the distributor and "it turned." Ah... He didn't even want to take the distributor off again, cuz the bolt is under the intake manifold and didn't want to take that off again. So we rotated the plug wires. Its a 6 cylinder, so 360 / 6 = 60, but at worst will be halfway so should get us within 30 degrees right? Well it worked, got it running rough, so then we turned the distributor a bit till it ran smoother. You can actually cause catastrophic engine damage with really bad spark timing. Putting it back to the correct timing shouldn't be too hard.
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May 2, 2016 14:46
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Epitope posted:Helped a buddy do his valve cover gaskets. He'd not done any real car work before, not that I'm any kind of expert. I was surprised at how he charged into taking everything apart without even knowing what it was, just to get it out of the way. Whatever, drat the torpedos. We hit a stuck bold and I had to go. He finished it without me, but it wouldn't start. I returned to help puzzle over it. "I think it's timing" he says, cuz he took off the distributor and "it turned." Ah... He didn't even want to take the distributor off again, cuz the bolt is under the intake manifold and didn't want to take that off again. So we rotated the plug wires. Its a 6 cylinder, so 360 / 6 = 60, but at worst will be halfway so should get us within 30 degrees right? Well it worked, got it running rough, so then we turned the distributor a bit till it ran smoother. Go rent a timing light from autozone or similar. Basically you pay for the tool then get your money back when you return it. You can really gently caress things up if it's the "right" kind of wrong. Edit: What is this thing that hides access to something so basic as the distributor hold-down?
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May 2, 2016 15:38
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I have a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer LS w/ about 178K miles on it that has an airbag light up on the dash and it is obviously failing the ignition check. Things I have tried so far: Reseating Fuses Replaced Front Impact Sensors w/ known good parts and checked for failure Checked and reseated cabling under driver and passenger side for the belt sensors. Symptoms: It began to gradually fail during this past winter where it would come on and stay on for a bit then finally go off. Seatbelt light indicator on the dash seems to take longer than usual to go off. I am leaning toward something fucky with the seatbelt sensors or the wiring in the seat but I need to pull to code to know for sure and I'm not paying a mechanic $100 to read one code so I can fix it. I'd rather just buy a code reader that can pull engine and airbag/srs/mrs codes. Does anyone have any recommendations for a code reader that can pull that off for $100 or less?
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May 2, 2016 16:33
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I don't know in terms of actual solutions but I think both the slip ring in the steering wheel and the passenger seat sensors tend to wear out after time. Specifically on the slip ring I think the voltage is not as great over time and it takes awhile before the SRS computer is happy with the signal. A bunch of other things factor into the SRS system - like often newish cars have 'explosive pretensioners' - so the seat belt buckle has an explosive charge which will pull backwards in the event of an airbag deployment to lock up the rachet in the seat belt. I doubt any of this helps you, but explosive seat belts sound really cool. I do know on my BMW you need a much more comprehensive code reader to pull SRS codes - I don't think they factor into normal OBD codes. They don't want laymen screwing around with the SRS system so it's a lot harder to do diagnostics on. Obviously a Chevy is not a BMW, but I would double triple check whatever code reader you find is actually able to pull SRS codes for your car.
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May 2, 2016 16:45
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You can visually look at the seatbelt (female end) and see if the pretensioner has gone off. But yeah, pulling codes isn't as easy as engine codes unfortunately.
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May 2, 2016 16:56
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Thank you guys, I was worried about that. I'll see if I can't convince him to fix it...Godholio posted:Edit: What is this thing that hides access to something so basic as the distributor hold-down? I think it was more of a Epitope fucked around with this message at 01:39 on May 3, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 17:41
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Not sure if this is the right place... 2002 Volvo v70 t5, 145k miles I bought this car for a song at 100k and have since replaced the all of the timing components, water pump, cam seals, spark plugs, ignition coils, strut mounts, axles, brakes, rotors and tires. I have never been able to get rid of the check engine light (camshaft position sensor, has been changed 3 times) or the shimmy at highway speeds and I'm starting to feel like fixing what's wrong may cost me more than the car is worth. Would it be stupid to sell the car while I can and pick up a cheap scooter for my short 5 mile commute to work while I figure out a long term solution? I'd love to keep the car but I can't work on it where I am and I absolutely have to get to work, and would be hosed if it broke down. I feel so conflicted 
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May 3, 2016 00:15
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karn1635 posted:I have a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer LS w/ about 178K miles on it that has an airbag light up on the dash and it is obviously failing the ignition check. Get the code pulled. You have a seat belt sensor issue from googling as common and the srs inflation connector as an issue I'm seeing. Be lucky a 2000's chevy hasn't killed you yet!
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May 3, 2016 01:14
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confonnit posted:Not sure if this is the right place... I'm going to go against what people in this forum like to say: those cars are garbage and you should definitely get rid of it and get something with two wheels.
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May 3, 2016 01:59
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confonnit posted:Not sure if this is the right place... Shimmy could be related to rotten bushings or something simple. Have you inspected the connector to the cps?
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May 3, 2016 02:33
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