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gently caress you loving Bavarians. The loving E46 330i still stumbles and throws the same loving codes. I've replaced: MAF Intake boot misc Vacuum lines. Jet Sucking Pump (gently caress that thing) Entire Goddamn CCV System Upstream 02 Sensors. The only goddamn thing I can think of that's left is the stupid fuel filter, but from what I've read that doesn't add up. I'm ready to set the accursed thing on fire. Does anyone have anything I should try before I get some matches?
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Apr 30, 2016 23:32
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when i did the filter on my 540 at ~175k, the old unit, after drying out all the gas, seemed to have roughly 25-50% of the 'flow rate' of the new filter, as tested by my hearty lungs through a plastic hose. Cleared up some lean codes from both sides. Is it under the driver's side like mine? Was pretty easy to swap.
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Apr 30, 2016 23:42
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Wrar posted:gently caress you loving Bavarians. The loving E46 330i still stumbles and throws the same loving codes. What codes again?
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May 1, 2016 00:29
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p0171 p0174 p1083 p1085
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May 1, 2016 00:36
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Rent the fuel system tester at Autozone, this will let you determine if you've got a fueling issue (bad pump, possibly) by watching rail pressure. If that's fine then you can smoke test for any vac leaks you've missed.
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May 1, 2016 00:51
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I'd do the fuel filter, easy and not too expensive. Still need to do mine. I'd get some new clamps because the stock ones are loving weird poo poo.
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May 1, 2016 02:50
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I was sitting behind an E46 today in traffic when it decided to dump the contents of its GDCS all over the pavement. That was follow rapidly by steam pouring out from under the hood.
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May 1, 2016 03:56
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good ol GDCS it's always the cooling system, somehow.
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May 1, 2016 05:31
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Yeah, a few weeks after i bought my 330i i replaced the entire cooling system out of fear of that happening to me. Pretty much evrything looked ok (but definitely original at 89k miles) but when i got the expansion tank out, the expansion tank to block hose basically fell apart in my hand. The GDCS service is cheap insurance compared to dealing with an overheated aluminum block. WRAR, have you chrcked the oil dipstick breather tube?
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May 1, 2016 14:57
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Mr. Apollo posted:I was sitting behind an E46 today in traffic when it decided to dump the contents of its GDCS all over the pavement. That was follow rapidly by steam pouring out from under the hood. Obscure as poo poo, but I remember an afternoon a few days after 9/11 where there was a big freakout POSSIBLE CAR BOMB on the news. it was a newer model BMW billowing coolant out from under the hood in Manhattan or something i laughed and laughed years later when it all clicked e: i blew the neck clean off my 540 radiator 20 miles after driving it home 500 miles after purchase across Oklahoma and Texas, on a strong third pull. Comedy for everybody behind me, for sure.
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May 1, 2016 18:20
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TWSS posted:The GDCS service Is this the god damned cooling system? If so, what is the time interval where it should be replaced? My 2009 Z4 sDrive 30i (so, 3.0L I6) is never going to reach the miles requirement. It's at 35,xxx right now and I only put on 2,000 last year.
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May 1, 2016 18:32
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My first GCDS explosion was the bleeder screw turning into dust which made for an exciting 100 km trip attempting to manage heat versus me stopping to fill the radiator with more distilled water all while leaving a trail of steam behind me.
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May 1, 2016 18:36
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H110Hawk posted:Is this the god damned cooling system? If so, what is the time interval where it should be replaced? My 2009 Z4 sDrive 30i (so, 3.0L I6) is never going to reach the miles requirement. It's at 35,xxx right now and I only put on 2,000 last year. Not you're ok
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May 1, 2016 18:43
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BraveUlysses posted:Not you're ok 
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May 1, 2016 18:55
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I know miles are the primary metric on GDCS repairs but i'd still watch it. i can't think that the plastic bits would be in good shape after 7 years no matter how few miles e: My milestone is that i hit 1k miles this weekend since resurrecting the 540 after a 2 year park. oil change time.
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May 1, 2016 18:56
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I'm at 10k miles at 8 months. I can't wait.
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May 1, 2016 18:56
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It's not a terrible idea to just spend some time looking for deals and getting all the GCDS stuff ready to go for the eventual detonation.
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May 1, 2016 19:06
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Autocorrect You're fine. Expect to replace after 80k
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May 1, 2016 19:09
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One day I went with my uncle to go buy a 528i. Car looked generally okay, looked at the engine, the guy said cooling system was serviced and in good working order. He pointed out the coolant, "Yeah I always get the authentic red BMW coolant, you know a lot of kids just buy whatever coolant they don't shell out for the real stuff and it backfires on them." That's funny I thought, BMW coolant is blue not red, why is he pointing out using the right kind of coolant if he got the color wrong? Sure enough, somewhere on the six hour return trip his car ran out of antifreeze and he had to hike a mile to the nearest auto parts store. Never again. If there's like the slightest little thing that seems off it's like this giant battle station klaxon goes off in my head and I want to go over everything with a magnifying glass. This was not my first or last rodeo with the GDCS but it's pretty consistently the only thing that I've seen really go critically wrong with these cars. Meanwhile, trusty ol Volvo 240 has had a leaking water pump for a couple of years now. Sometimes the engine temperature goes higher than it should and so I just top it off the reservoir and it's good for another few months. I really doubt the radiator has ever been replaced and the expansion tank seems to be the original 1989 factory one. Did BMW ever get better at their cooling systems? It seems they were pretty poor through at least the E46 but I've always wondered if they finally cut that poo poo out with some of the newer ones? H110Hawk posted:Is this the god damned cooling system? If so, what is the time interval where it should be replaced? My 2009 Z4 sDrive 30i (so, 3.0L I6) is never going to reach the miles requirement. It's at 35,xxx right now and I only put on 2,000 last year. You're probably fine. I would replace the everything at the 100k mile mark, although I don't really know about that car specifically. If you start loosing coolant or notice any issues with the cooling system you probably want to full stop and make sure everything checks out - things that seem suspect probably ought be replaced as a preventive measure. It seems to be my experience that any minor failures are a pretty short countdown to a catastrophic failure and if you're at all able you generally want to get any cooling system issues fixed as soon as possible, although this is probably true of most modern cars and not just BMWs. e: Pay double attention to hoses and plastic fatigue particularly at the expansion tank. Radiators tend to fail around hose neck area; expansion tanks explode; water pumps leak. ultrabay2000 fucked around with this message at 19:17 on May 1, 2016 |
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May 1, 2016 19:14
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Jonny 290 posted:e: i blew the neck clean off my 540 radiator 20 miles after driving it home 500 miles after purchase across Oklahoma and Texas, on a strong third pull. Comedy for everybody behind me, for sure. 
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May 1, 2016 21:25
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Radiator neck on my e28 cracked the same way right as I was pulling into work from lunch about a week after I bought it
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May 1, 2016 21:28
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I know these assholes know this is coming somehow and think 'quick! sell it!'
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May 1, 2016 21:28
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ultrabay2000 posted:You're probably fine. I would replace the everything at the 100k mile mark, although I don't really know about that car specifically. If you start loosing coolant or notice any issues with the cooling system you probably want to full stop and make sure everything checks out - things that seem suspect probably ought be replaced as a preventive measure. It seems to be my experience that any minor failures are a pretty short countdown to a catastrophic failure and if you're at all able you generally want to get any cooling system issues fixed as soon as possible, although this is probably true of most modern cars and not just BMWs. Thanks. I'm mainly concerned because it could be a decade before this car hits 100k miles and that's not how plastic and rubber fatigues. I know that once the initial "issue" happens I should have the whole system overhauled. I'll keep an eye on those bits.
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May 1, 2016 21:47
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Also note, if you have a temperature needle and it moves at all past the spot it stays at normally stays at once it's warmed up it's a bad sign.
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May 1, 2016 22:01
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ultrabay2000 posted:I know these assholes know this is coming somehow and think 'quick! sell it!' Na, in this case I was stupid and didn't go through and replace everything as soon as I bought it. This was all original parts from 1988 with ~81k miles on it. Gave me a good excuse to replace everything cooling related. I would have replaced everything on the E28 as soon as I got it home but had receipts showing it had been done recently. Now any BMW I buy it's the first thing I do if there isn't evidence it was done within 25k miles or 10 years.
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May 1, 2016 22:04
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H110Hawk posted:Is this the god damned cooling system? If so, what is the time interval where it should be replaced? My 2009 Z4 sDrive 30i (so, 3.0L I6) is never going to reach the miles requirement. It's at 35,xxx right now and I only put on 2,000 last year. That's an N52 engine car, and it's been through a few revisions by 09. It's certainly less of an issue than the M54 engines, but you should think about it around the 10 year / 100k mark. I drove my first E90 to 105k with no engine issues, and my current one is at 96k, and I've tuned both to the 255ish hp range with a tune and manifold swap.
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May 1, 2016 22:12
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H110Hawk posted:Thanks. I'm mainly concerned because it could be a decade before this car hits 100k miles and that's not how plastic and rubber fatigues. I know that once the initial "issue" happens I should have the whole system overhauled. I'll keep an eye on those bits.
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May 1, 2016 22:13
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ultrabay2000 posted:Also note, if you have a temperature needle and it moves at all past the spot it stays at normally stays at once it's warmed up it's a bad sign. Mine waggles sometimes so I take it as a very general indication.
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May 1, 2016 23:04
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ultrabay2000 posted:Also note, if you have a temperature needle and it moves at all past the spot it stays at normally stays at once it's warmed up it's a bad sign. Do people not obsessively run KTMP monitoring on their unlocked OBC? I never drive mine without it. considering building a small Arduino board to press the appropriate buttons to automatically put it in KTMP mode upon vehicle start. ultrabay2000 posted:Also note, if you have a temperature needle and it moves at all past the spot it stays at normally stays at once it's warmed up it's a bad sign. Yep, it's buffered so that it is no longer remotely linear, to stop people from staring at it. Treat it as a COLD-OK-OVERHEATING three way light.
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May 1, 2016 23:21
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ultrabay2000 posted:Also note, if you have a temperature needle and it moves at all past the spot it stays at normally stays at once it's warmed up it's a bad sign. Just an idiot light and oil temp gauge. I believe it's exported via the OBD2 port but I would have to double check. I have one of those bluetooth adapter things and Torque on my phone. Jonny 290 posted:Do people not obsessively run KTMP monitoring on their unlocked OBC? Go on... Also I don't have iDrive so if it's dependent on that then gently caress it. GentlemanofLeisure posted:Yeah just keep an eye on it. Squeeze the rubber hoses a bit and see if they're still pliable, if they're turning tough and brittle time to replace. Check for hairline cracks in the plastic bits. Check your bleeder screw. Should be fine based on mileage, but at 10 years you may want to look at replacing the plastic bits. Thanks. I figured that was it. Alarbus posted:That's an N52 engine car, and it's been through a few revisions by 09. It's certainly less of an issue than the M54 engines, but you should think about it around the 10 year / 100k mark. I drove my first E90 to 105k with no engine issues, and my current one is at 96k, and I've tuned both to the 255ish hp range with a tune and manifold swap. Good times. I am not a "car guy" by any stretch. The car went off stock as of a week ago when I* changed out the warranty-installed brake pads & rotors for aftermarket pads/rotors/braided lines I'm sure car guys would hate. * Where I earned the money that paid my mechanic to do all of it.
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May 1, 2016 23:54
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ultrabay2000 posted:Did BMW ever get better at their cooling systems? It seems they were pretty poor through at least the E46 but I've always wondered if they finally cut that poo poo out with some of the newer ones? As far as the 3ers go they went to electric water pumps on the E90 and the F30 uses a 140 kPa radiator cap instead of the 200 kPa caps on the older cars (~30 PSI to ~20 PSI), so the system vents at a lower pressure. Not that it should matter since the normal operating temperature is well below the coolant's boiling point, so you shouldn't be anywhere near venting pressure unless something is wrong. Maybe the old 2 bar caps were there just in case you wanted to run a mix with a higher ratio of distilled water to coolant? vroom vroom race car Maybe it's just anecdotal since the oldest E90s just turned 10, but you don't seem to hear as much about cooling system issues with them as the older cars. The_Franz fucked around with this message at 02:57 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 00:27
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Jonny 290 posted:Do people not obsessively run KTMP monitoring on their unlocked OBC? I was doing this for awhile with my E39. I wish they were like the 240 where you could just rip out the compensation circuit and the temp gauge worked correctly. I bought a Arduino OBD-II adapter, one day I want to try to make a OLED temp display kind of deal. e: oh you mentioned Arduino too. You could get this thing and make your own temp gauge somewhere. I thought maybe putting blinking lights on it that start flashing red to get your attention if something goes south would be cool. They have these dudes which I think encompass a whole Arduino. 365 Nog Hogger posted:Mine waggles sometimes so I take it as a very general indication. What do you have? I think I've seen a wiggling of a couple of degrees maybe on a E39/E34 but not much more than that. ultrabay2000 fucked around with this message at 00:44 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 00:33
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E30s do it if the ground nuts are missing or the solder in the cluster is cracked.
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May 2, 2016 00:47
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The_Franz posted:As far as the 3ers go they went to electric water pumps on the E90 and the F30 uses a 140 kPa radiator cap instead of the 200 kPa caps on the older cars (~30 PSI to ~20 PSI), so the system operates at a lower pressure. Maybe it's just anecdotal since the oldest E90s just turned 10, but you don't seem to hear as much about cooling system issues with them as the older cars. My '06 E90 ate it's water pump at around 110k miles.
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May 2, 2016 00:54
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ultrabay2000 posted:What do you have? I think I've seen a wiggling of a couple of degrees maybe on a E39/E34 but not much more than that. E30, doesn't wag all the time, but when it does it's about +/-1/8th of the total range of motion. BlackMK4 posted:E30s do it if the ground nuts are missing or the solder in the cluster is cracked. Please tell me more, I've suspected grounding issues in a few places but don't know how to check without pulling it all apart.
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May 2, 2016 02:12
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I don't know which year you have, but there is a trick to getting the cluster out on the airbag cars. Basically, you remove the trim around the thing, unscrew the cluster and IF I REMEMBER RIGHT (I probably don't) you can rotate it towards you face down and get the thing out. Anyway, it's been a long time but there are a couple of nuts on the back that are grounds. They tend to go missing. The solder on these also tends to crack and then you get the bouncing gauges as the grounds momentarily lose contact.
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May 2, 2016 02:43
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The dipstick had the O-ring replaced with the rest of the CCV system. Ordered a fuel filter. I'll keep y'all posted.
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May 2, 2016 02:54
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BlackMK4 posted:I don't know which year you have, but there is a trick to getting the cluster out on the airbag cars. Basically, you remove the trim around the thing, unscrew the cluster and IF I REMEMBER RIGHT (I probably don't) you can rotate it towards you face down and get the thing out. 91 ix with an airbag (that will probably kill me), thanks! I'm a bit worried about damaging my relatively perfect dash (only part of the car that might have 0 cosmetic issues, though the rest are all small), does this effect anything other than the gauges?
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May 2, 2016 02:58
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Nah, it's just the gauges. I took mine out to replace the dead bulbs, then finally got around to trouble shooting the bouncing gauges later. If I get another E30 I'll take care of the whole thing at once since it's kinda fiddly to get out. Speaking of which, someone just sent me this:        quote:Hey, I have a 1988 325is that i might consider selling. Maybe $6500 if the AC was there and the interior wasn't turbo hosed. Maybe $5-5.5k as it sits. Sigh. The search continues. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:15 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 03:01
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I should also point out that in regards to GDCS on the N52, I did a coolant flush as soon as I bought it (lifetime my rear end), and then change it on a two year cycle.
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May 2, 2016 03:41
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