juliuspringle posted:

I would LOVE a new Monster Rancher game, though I have no idea how that would work these days.

DraconicImpulse posted:

Shouldn't be too crazy. EVO had CD and DVD support, just toss in BluRay and it's golden. Maybe something else for games that are on the hard-drive rather than on disc.

Safari Disco Lion posted:

Run a new Monster Hunter as a built-in-Steam game that makes monsters based on the games you own.

HOOLY BOOLY posted:

Anybody have general tips for Bloodbowl 2?

HOOLY BOOLY posted:

Anybody have general tips for Bloodbowl 2?

HOOLY BOOLY posted:

Anybody have general tips for Bloodbowl 2?

But Not Tonight posted:

stick to using CDs but allow DVD support as well! BOOM let's make it happen, I can't wait to get my fat purple rabbit fighter goin again

e: had to look it up, my favorite was Amethyst, Hare + Naga breed with a knockout punch

Keeshhound posted:

You'd have better luck doing it as a smart phone game and using QR codes.

My Lovely Horse posted:

HOOLY BOOLY posted:

Anybody have general tips for Bloodbowl 2?

Sociopastry posted:

Dragon Age Inquisitions anyone?

Sociopastry posted:

Dragon Age Inquisitions anyone?

Sociopastry posted:

Dragon Age Inquisitions anyone?

Gerblyn posted:

While you're in that menu another option gives enemies extra combat abilities which you should turn on too, since it makes combat more interesting and the game has a ton of combat.

Sociopastry posted:

Dragon Age Inquisitions anyone?

Random Hajile posted:

Orcs and maybe Humans are widely considered the easiest teams to start out with. Nothing's stopping you from trying the other teams first, but Blood Bowl has quite a bit to take in at first and many of the other teams rely more on techniques that require better knowledge of the game mechanics to shine.

Blood Bowl is essentially a game of risk management - you can potentially perform an action with each of your players each turn, but if you have one of your guys fail an attempt to pick up the ball, lose possession of the ball, get called on a foul, leave the field, or get knocked over, you lose the rest of your turn (there is an exception for the "get knocked over" rule if the skill Wrestle is being used). So you generally want to perform actions that are absolutely safe first (like standing guys up from the ground or moving guys that won't have to dodge away from opponents), then move on to the least risky or most important actions and prioritize from there.

Each player can typically either move or punch on a turn, but not both. Shared amongst your whole team, you also get three "special" actions a turn - Blitz, Pass, and Hand-off. Pass and Hand-off are fairly self-explanatory, but the Blitz lets one player both move and hit in the same turn. The player can move before and/or after hitting. Your Blitz will usually be the most important move you make each turn.

Each player earns SPP (Star Player Points) when they cause an injury, complete a pass, intercept a pass, or score a touchdown. Plus, one random player on each team is given an MVP SPP bonus at the end of each game. If a team forfeits, the winning team gets two MVPs and the one that gave up gets none. Players level up and earn new skills when they earn enough. Each player type usually only gets access to certain types of skills (like General, Strength or Agility skills), but two dice are rolled on each level up. Doubles means access to restricted skills, and a 10, 11, or 12 means you can choose a stat-up instead (Movement or armor on a 10, agility on 11, strength on 12). You generally want to give players skills that help them specialize in a role rather than generalize. Also, when failing an attempt won't cost you a game, it can be a good idea to hand-off to important slow-leveling players near the endzone to feed them touchdowns to get them skilled up.

Speaking of stats, Strength mostly helps the odds when throwing punches or getting hit. When a player throws a punch at someone with equal strength, one die is rolled and that's the result of the hit, good or bad. If your player throws a punch at someone a little weaker, two dice are rolled and you pick which result you like more. If you punch someone stronger, two dice are rolled and your opponent chooses the one THEY like more. If one player is twice the strength or more of the other, three dice are rolled and the player with the strength advantage chooses the one they like. You can modify your punching character's strength by having teammates "assist." Each extra player you have next to the guy you want to punch adds one to your punching guy's strength, so long as they're not next to any other opposing players (having the skill "Guard" lets a player lend an assist even if next to multiple opposing players). On the other hand, having your puncher be next to multiple opposing players lets them assist the opponent, provided they don't have any of your players next to them. Positioning your players to lend assists for your important punches or to deny your opponent's assists is one of the most important skills you'll learn in the game. For your first few games, pay attention to how your opponent sets up for punches and try to figure out why they're doing it.

As for the other stats, Agility helps with anything involving the ball and dodging away from enemies, Armor helps reduce the chances of getting stunned/KO'ed/injured/killed when getting knocked over, and Movement is fairly self-explanatory. A couple things to note for movement is that standing up from being knocked down costs 3 movement, and each player can attempt to move up to two spaces beyond what their movement score allows each turn, but at risk. Each extra space they attempt to move has a 1-in-6 chance of causing them to fall over, so it's not something you want to do unless it's really important.

Many teams have a "Big Guy" that they only get one to a few of, like the Troll on an Orc team or Minotaur on Chaos. These players typically have 5 or 6 strength. They have drawbacks that can make them risky to use if not outright liabilities in some cases. First, they have negative traits - Ogres are dumb and have a 1-in-6 chance of ignoring an order to instead stare into space for a turn each time you try and use them. Trolls are similar, but the odds are 50% unless you have a friendly unit next to them (and then, it's still 1-in-6). Minotaurs have a 50% chance of ignoring you unless you're telling them to hurt someone (and then, it's still 1-in-6). And so on. And on top of all that, Big Guys have the "Loner" trait, so if you try to use a team reroll on something they're attempting, there's a 50% chance it'll waste the reroll without doing anything. Some teams can really use their Big Guys in spite of the drawbacks, some teams are better off doing without, but either way, they're kind of advanced units that you can wait until you start getting the hang of things before using.

The squares on the edges of the pitch are dangerous. This includes the end-zones. Players can be shoved off the pitch, which at the minimum means they're gone until the next kick-off, but also carries a higher risk of them being injured. This technique is called "crowdsurfing." You don't get SPP for crowdsurfing opponents, but it's still well worth doing when you can if you don't have any better moves to make.

Finally, if you're going to try Orcs to start out with, a solid starting lineup is 4 Blitzers, 4 Black Orcs, 2 Linemen, 1 Thrower, and 3 Rerolls. The first thing to buy as soon as you can afford it is an Apothecary, but since Rerolls double in price after your first game and the Apothecary doesn't, you can live a game or two without healing. You don't actually want to try long passes with the thrower at first outside of last-ditch desperation plays, but the Thrower has a skill that gives free rerolls when attempting to pick up the ball, so it'll be your ball-carrier. The Black Orcs are your dumb, slow muscle, the Blitzers are your smart(er) muscle. Try to throw important punches with your Blitzers when possible, while your Black Orcs are best as being roadblocks for your opponent at first. By all means, have your Black Orcs punch when the opportunity presents itself, just be aware that until you can level them and grab the "Block" skill, punching with them isn't as safe as it could be.

senae posted:

I've seen people say that can make some rifts unbeatable, so make sure to save often if you turn it on.

Panic! at Nabisco posted:

Important things to know when playing Bravely Second? I played and beat the first game.

Head Hit Keyboard posted:

What should I know about Legend of Dragoon?

quote:

- You have a small item limit, and you get given lots of items. Don't be afraid to use your items, especially attack items, since they're your only way of inflicting element damage.

- Defending is actually useful as it recovers 1/10th of max HP in addition to your defence boost. It's more useful than it sounds.

- Build up all your additions. You'll need to to unlock your last one(which is the strongest).

- Related to this, early on there's an enemy who puts up a shield blocking all phys damage. I smell 'training target'.

- There are some seriously expensive items in a town mid-game. It's not especially wise to grind for the armours, but consider the auto-addition items.

- You'll want an FAQ for the Stardust pieces.

- The difficulty for the game is a little wonky. There are a couple of brick wall boss fights that you can run into. If you want to get through the game without faceplanting against a nightmare of a boss:

- Every time you get an addition, max it out. If you get another addition, don't move on until you max that one out, too. Having maxed out additions gives you a tremendous boost in offense, which you'll need for several of the bosses. With some characters, the boost in damage via additions is so large, the normal physical combos overshadows any and all special attacks.

- I'd honestly recommend using a stardust FAQ and a repeatable item location FAQ. I'm pretty sure some of them are missable, permanently.

- Speed is very, very, very important. A fast character can use items, attack, defend (for 10% HP back), so on and so forth, while a slow character usually has limited options. The difference speed makes is huge, with faster characters taking multiple turns over slower characters. Fast characters tend to do less physical damage, but the amount of times they attack more than make up for it.

- Meanwhile, magic defense is more important than regular defense, because the majority of heavy-damage boss attacks are magic based. So, ideally, you'll want fast characters with a reasonable magic defense in your main party.

- Make sure to level all your characters, there are several times throughout the game where you are forced to use a character.

Mayor McCheese posted:

Since you guys already played the first, there's not too many new tips.

My tips would be not to bother with the chomp mini game, just pick what class looks interesting when you have a choice as there's no real downside other than waiting a bit before you can get the other class, you can powerlevel with Red Mage/Ranger combination thanks to Berserk status and how Red Mage gains BP, and when you're building the town you need to have your system on standby (close your 3DS) -- not sleep mode or turned off for it to idle properly.

Tylana posted:

Due to Humble Bundle I'm curious if there's anything important to know in Citizens of Earth ?

Head Hit Keyboard posted:

What should I know about Legend of Dragoon?

Kaboom Dragoon posted:

I picked up Trails of Cold Steel on the cheap (Vita version, if that makes a difference). Anything I should know in advance? And will I be missing out on much if I haven't played the first two Trails in the Sky games?

chairface posted:

If you played Tropico 4, build less churches more entertainment, and parking lots are smaller and work better.

General Tropico 5 stuff not related to 4:

1. Immigration: Options are to let everyone in, which will get you a shitload of immigrants. Or you can close yourself like a hermit state (no one in, no one out) or a modern Visa Program. If you set your immigration policies to a Visa Program to bring in more educated workers, it really brings you more grade school educated workers over outright illiterates. So even if you have a shitload of high schools and colleges, adults with primary school educations immigrating will still need jobs for the uneducated. Note these primary school-educated immigrants are STILL better than outright illiterates at jobs that illiterates can do.

2. Labor: Making sure you have enough jobs for illiterates (primary school educated people still can only do 'illiterate' jobs but are better at them) is one of the bigger challenges if you're not closing yourself off from the world. As mentioned above, even if you have enough education for every tropican child to go to college, immigrants will still stick you with workers who need 'illiterate jobs' unless you go North Korean. Two big pitfalls to avoid in this area are your Military policy (I do NOT advise requiring soldiers to have a high school education; the military is an easy way to slap down some jobs for illiterates without much infrastructure) where any choice but Conscription excludes illiterates from military service. Another easy mistake to make is that plantations employ illiterates, but once upgraded to factory farms they require high school educated workers. For this reason it may be best to do the Organic Campaign and just keep your plantations while charging extra for their products.

3. Economy: Colonial era largely sticks you with only raw material extraction. Try to set up production of intermediate materials during this time; you may be stuck selling your wool and cotton to the crown today but tomorrow it could be making vastly more money in a textile mill. logs -> planks -> furniture, or coal + iron -> steel, any chain like that where you can sell the refined product using resources produced locally is the best way to make money in the long term. Every island should have at least one cannery, as well; you've got to feed your own people and sell the excess anyway, you might as well make extra money on the whole process. Don't be afraid to import poo poo anytime someone's offering to sell you stuff for less than you can sell it for. These are especially nice deals when you have the means of refining the materials further; Cuban logs at cheaper than market rates are nice, but when I'm ultimately selling them as finished furniture that's sweeter still.

4. Military/Foreign Relations: To defend from foreign threats, defend your beaches with watchtowers and have a large enough military to drive off the attackers. Tanks are somewhat mediocre vs. equivalent era infantry squads, but require fewer employees. During the World Wars it is important to get two embassies set up quickly so you can play the Axis/Allies off each other and try to avoid/minimize how often you get invaded. From the Cold War onward, domestic threats are likely to outpace foreign ones, especially since foreign powers are more like to have the CIA/KGB get locals to rebel/stage a coup rather than invading directly.

Lucas Archer posted:

This is great stuff, thanks. I'm just trying it out, my first Tropico game, but I'm having fun. I assume all those are mainly for sandbox? I've done the tutorial, which I lost, and the first couple of campaign missions.

Scientastic posted:

I just finished The Last Of Us. I'm feeling pretty emotionally drained by the whole experience... Should I start up Left Behind straight away, or have a bit of a break?