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ultrabay2000 posted:I was doing this for awhile with my E39. I wish they were like the 240 where you could just rip out the compensation circuit and the temp gauge worked correctly. I bought a Arduino OBD-II adapter, one day I want to try to make a OLED temp display kind of deal. gently caress, you just fixed my problem. All I really want is full time KTMP monitoring. I can so bash this out in a couple nights. H110Hawk posted:Go on... Also I don't have iDrive so if it's dependent on that then gently caress it. Here's the E39 OBC bible. One time unlock and you have access to allllllll sorts of fun diagnostics until the next time you unhook the battery. http://www.ideaphile.com/bmw/540-obc.html
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May 2, 2016 04:23
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Alarbus posted:I should also point out that in regards to GDCS on the N52, I did a coolant flush as soon as I bought it (lifetime my rear end), and then change it on a two year cycle. Pretty sure mine is still lifetime. *ahem*
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May 2, 2016 04:24
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Who ever said Germans overcomplicate things? http://www.autoblog.com/2016/05/02/bmw-quad-turbo-diesel-confirmed/ Six cylinders, four turbos.
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May 2, 2016 14:53
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Removal of the cluster on airbag cars isn't super tricky, but the cluster likes getting stuck. You basically just remove all the surround and the screws, and then tip the top of the cluster forward which you can then access the connectors, and it will pull out. It takes a lot of fiddling around with it to get it to rotate downwards though. Recently, mine got caught on both the dash vinyl where its wrapped around, and the wiring/connector harness that runs above it. From there, you can check grounds and replace bulbs and such. Reinstallation is very easy.
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May 2, 2016 15:02
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H110Hawk posted:Pretty sure mine is still lifetime. *ahem* It's certainly not German unicorn blood - I'd get that changed.
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May 2, 2016 15:11
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Oh wise car whisperers, any clue offhand what might be causing a rattle from the front end caused pretty much exclusively by bumps? Braking and turning do not cause it, but it's more metallic sounding than some loose superior German plastic or hose. From searching it seems like it could be loose end links or sway bar parts - not sure if that makes any sense, but might as well ask before I start poking around.
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May 2, 2016 15:37
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wolrah posted:Who ever said Germans overcomplicate things? Yea but it will get a 7 series to 60 in 4.5 seconds. Using a diesel. 
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May 2, 2016 15:46
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Infinotize posted:Oh wise car whisperers, any clue offhand what might be causing a rattle from the front end caused pretty much exclusively by bumps? Braking and turning do not cause it, but it's more metallic sounding than some loose superior German plastic or hose. From searching it seems like it could be loose end links or sway bar parts - not sure if that makes any sense, but might as well ask before I start poking around. Could be struts too.
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May 2, 2016 16:24
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wolrah posted:Who ever said Germans overcomplicate things? 'Hm I think an oil line is leaking' *opens hood, a rat king of tubes peers back*
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May 2, 2016 18:32
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Rigged Death Trap posted:'Hm I think an oil line is leaking' Every service procedure: 1.) Remove engine 2.) ...
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May 2, 2016 19:53
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BMW: the new Audi
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May 2, 2016 19:57
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3300 bucks to fix a A/C leak? gently caress me. Not the cooling system I was worried about at 53,000 miles. 
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May 3, 2016 01:12
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ausgezeichnet posted:3300 bucks to fix a A/C leak? gently caress me. Not the cooling system I was worried about at 53,000 miles. Are they routing the AC lines through the block or something?
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May 3, 2016 03:13
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It shouldn't cost $3300 to replace every component in your a/c system
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May 3, 2016 12:10
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I think my car cost $1200 to actually replace everything in the A/C system.
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May 3, 2016 14:59
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Well, I replaced my stock head unit and tore out the aftermarket amp in the '87 325is. Now when I turn on the lights the fuse for the license plate lights and the passenger side brake light blows. Everything else works fine, including the new head unit. There must be some sort of short in the rear trunk harness? I long for the sweet embrace of death.
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May 3, 2016 15:21
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a short or a bad ground. if part of the circuit lifts from ground it can find it through another circuit, your lights are probably in series with the license plate bulb now
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May 3, 2016 18:57
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These are my two front strut mounts.  How bad is it and how long do I have before I have to replace them?
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May 3, 2016 19:14
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Hard to tell with those pictures but they look .... okay? I assume that's a mouse nest in the one. What car is this? E: oh wait no it's a dead hornet nest. Can you hose that out of there?
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May 3, 2016 19:24
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ultrabay2000 posted:Hard to tell with those pictures but they look .... okay? I assume that's a mouse nest in the one. What car is this? Sorry forgot to mention that in my post, its a 2007 R56 Mini Cooper S. The car feels and drives fine and the only reason I'm a bit concerned is because I can see the separation between the bearing cap and the rubber and have no idea if thats part of the normal wear process or if I'm looking at early stages of the mount failing. The clump of stuff is a dead wasp and some detrius that keeps finding its way in. Its like the fourth wasp corpse to appear, every time I get rid of one another one seems to die and take it's place.
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May 3, 2016 19:47
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Those don't look as cracked as I've seen. With that said, make sure that they are the same depth because they collapse over time.
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May 3, 2016 20:54
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BlackMK4 posted:No rust, Straight body. All matching panels And the left fender is crushed in the front and pounded out with sizable dents in the driver's door... yeah, straight as an arrow. 
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May 4, 2016 01:04
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rscott posted:It shouldn't cost $3300 to replace every component in your a/c system It's mostly labor. The evaporator/dryer in the M6 is buried in the dash and it's like a loving Gordian Knot to get it apart. Not that the parts are cheap, but it's the time involved getting to them that's the killer. I got quotes from two independent shops I respect and one skeevy A/C specialty shop and they were within a few hundred bucks of each other. I went with my favorite shop, though I'm new to my area and have only used them for small stuff.
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May 4, 2016 01:14
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Lightbulb Out posted:Well, I replaced my stock head unit and tore out the aftermarket amp in the '87 325is. Now when I turn on the lights the fuse for the license plate lights and the passenger side brake light blows. Everything else works fine, including the new head unit. There must be some sort of short in the rear trunk harness? I long for the sweet embrace of death. I had a similar issue when swapping head units in my work Hiace. Turns out we had connected the wire that controlled the dimming of the dash lights to the head unit instead of the ground wire. This resulted in a lot of blown fuses, dash lights AND tail lights not working and plenty of swearing until we figured it out. I later also figured out we had the constant power and power wires reversed, but I don't think that affected anything.
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May 4, 2016 02:09
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Looks like the airbag recall is about to more than double in size: http://www.nytimes.com/2016/05/04/business/takata-airbag-recall.html?_r=0
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May 4, 2016 06:41
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ausgezeichnet posted:It's mostly labor. The evaporator/dryer in the M6 is buried in the dash and it's like a loving Gordian Knot to get it apart. Not that the parts are cheap, but it's the time involved getting to them that's the killer. I got quotes from two independent shops I respect and one skeevy A/C specialty shop and they were within a few hundred bucks of each other. I went with my favorite shop, though I'm new to my area and have only used them for small stuff. Maybe your shop is charging you $200/hr for labor but it really shouldn't cost $3300 to fix a leak, maybe everyone sees the M6 and figure you have the money to spare
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May 4, 2016 12:37
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slothrop posted:I had a similar issue when swapping head units in my work Hiace. Turns out we had connected the wire that controlled the dimming of the dash lights to the head unit instead of the ground wire. This resulted in a lot of blown fuses, dash lights AND tail lights not working and plenty of swearing until we figured it out. I later also figured out we had the constant power and power wires reversed, but I don't think that affected anything. This is almost exactly what I did. FIXED. My Team Dynamics 16'' E30 wheels are pretty hosed though, they're all out of round and it makes me sad.
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May 4, 2016 14:18
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Lightbulb Out posted:This is almost exactly what I did. FIXED. At least your username was totally relevant while it was unfixed!
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May 4, 2016 14:45
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BlackMK4 posted:Those don't look as cracked as I've seen. With that said, make sure that they are the same depth because they collapse over time. So this is just basically normal wear and its more of a case of replacing them at some point in the relatively near future instead of dear gently caress get them changed right now? Edit - Went out and popped off the dust caps to get a better look.   Looks like its just the top layer separating from the centre of the mount, apart from that everything seems to be as it should. Panic over I think. Lord Ludikrous fucked around with this message at 20:18 on May 4, 2016 |
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May 4, 2016 19:52
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That e36 i just picked up has a DF strut mount thats totally hosed. I cant wait to replace both as soon as i finish driving it 600 miles back home across Pennsylvania... wish me luck i guess Also, thanks for the heads up on the cooling poo poo, ill keep an eye on that.
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May 4, 2016 22:03
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 It handles like a dream now :3 Though I do need new subframe bushings.
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May 4, 2016 22:31
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365 Nog Hogger posted:It handles like a dream now With a toe-only alignment that put your rears out of spec and barely greenlighted the fronts? 
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May 5, 2016 12:28
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One of the rear ears broke off the transmission I put in the M3 in March. Time to pull that out again so I can swap it out. The shop I bought it from said he will swap it for another trans since this one lasted less than 1 weekend. I don't think I have the heart to do this on the floor of the garage again. I local shop will do it for a few hundred bucks, so I think I'm just going to pay them to do it.
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May 5, 2016 15:18
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Dunno if anyone here is in the Cleveland area, but I just got a call from a dealer in Akron (that I had never done business with before, I usually go to Ganley) saying they had E46 passenger airbags in for the recall. I've still been lazy about the starter so mine's not in a condition to bring in yet, but if anyone else around has been waiting on it apparently Dave Walter BMW has the parts.
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May 5, 2016 17:47
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meatpimp posted:With a toe-only alignment that put your rears out of spec and barely greenlighted the fronts? Going to go with yes, since that's what I wrote.
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May 5, 2016 17:54
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365 Nog Hogger posted:Going to go with yes, since that's what I wrote. You may want to go through and replace the bushings in the rear if you haven't already. 
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May 5, 2016 18:13
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BlackMK4 posted:You may want to go through and replace the bushings in the rear if you haven't already. Yup, trailing arm and subframe bushings are up next, but $$$
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May 5, 2016 18:23
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I took the exhaust off my E36 off in one piece after the headers. I left the post car O2 sensors in and just unplugged them. How do I know which sensor plugs into which connector?
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May 8, 2016 05:27
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Ziploc posted:I took the exhaust off my E36 off in one piece after the headers. I left the post car O2 sensors in and just unplugged them. How do I know which sensor plugs into which connector? If I remember correctly the leads for the respective sensors are different lengths. When you put the exhaust back up, only the correct lead has enough reach to connect to the correct sensor.
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May 8, 2016 13:37
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What do you guys think this is worth? http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/5575138169.html Owner says: "No rust , 127k was rebuilt around 35k ago and runs good had the valve cover and oil pan put in a auto dishwasher new gaskets BMW original , valves adjusted Oil change and new plugs and wires new urethane bushings front and rear suspension." Not sure about the gas tank, heater, or other potential hairiness, although were those still an issue on late production cars like this?
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May 8, 2016 18:50
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