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clutchpuck posted:Buell it up and run the breather to air What surprises me is that Buells (and Sporsters obviously) have check valves in the breather hoses, while this doesn't.
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May 4, 2016 18:09
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High Protein posted:What surprises me is that Buells (and Sporsters obviously) have check valves in the breather hoses, while this doesn't. Yeah but they suck a lot more.
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May 4, 2016 18:15
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The KTM? That would make sense if they don't put check valves in it must suck pretty hard. I imagine the Sporty engine's tendency to spit through the intake would make the check valves prudent.
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May 4, 2016 18:18
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All the wires and poo poo I ordered to do my indicators arrived!  Of course the first thing I did was promptly murder one of the connector pins figuring out how to work the crimping tool  I knew I was being egregiously optimistic only ordering one set. Hit up eBay for spares, they'll be here Friday.
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May 4, 2016 21:37
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Any time you buy electronic parts, always buy at least one extra. If the parts are cheap, buy twice what you need. You'll always blow one up or lose one right at the moment you really need it.
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May 5, 2016 02:31
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Sagebrush posted:Any time you buy electronic parts, always buy at least one extra. If the parts are cheap, buy twice what you need. You'll always blow one up or lose one right at the moment you really need it. I wish I followed this advice when I was buying engines!
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May 5, 2016 02:47
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I need to do a coolant flush in my Vstrom 1000, but I've never done coolant myself before. Is there a suggested coolant to use? I imagine I can use any motorcycle coolant but I don't have my service manual with me at work.
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May 5, 2016 02:53
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You can use car coolant 
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May 5, 2016 02:57
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yeah its just water and antifreeze right?
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May 5, 2016 03:00
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Motorcycles don't take very much coolant anyway, so skip the antifreeze/water mixing and just buy a bottle of Prestone premixed green stuff. A gallon is like 10 buck.s
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May 5, 2016 03:14
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Alright I'll just pick this up from Walmart on the way home then.
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May 5, 2016 03:16
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Schroeder91 posted:I need to do a coolant flush in my Vstrom 1000, but I've never done coolant myself before. Is there a suggested coolant to use? I imagine I can use any motorcycle coolant but I don't have my service manual with me at work. I'm in the same boat. Where do I put my old coolant?
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May 5, 2016 03:20
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HotCanadianChick posted:My wife wants me to try and sell the K/Q seat I pulled off the GL1000, but I kinda want to just toss it where it belongs, in the trash. I'm still 50/50 on burning them or bolting them to a log in the woods where I go camping. Chichevache posted:I'm in the same boat. Go buy a gallon of deionized water use half when you mix it with the antifreeze, and pour the rest out, or drink it. (the water, stupid.) The pour the old poo poo in the gallon water bottle and take it to the dump, or Advance Auto, or Walmart or whatever. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 03:29 on May 5, 2016 |
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May 5, 2016 03:24
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Schroeder91 posted:Alright I'll just pick this up from Walmart on the way home then. Yep. Chichevache posted:Where do I put my old coolant? I asked a friend who works at the water department about this, and he said that most sanitary sewer systems can handle pouring used coolant down the toilet in household quantities. The bacteria in the treatment plants love the ethylene glycol. Don't do this if you have a septic tank and don't pour it into an unfiltered storm sewer. That said, I still take mine to the hazardous waste depot because it's free and why not.
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May 5, 2016 03:36
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Uh, excuse me, you should be using Maxima Coolanol at $14 for 2L because it's designed for motorcycles! If you really love your bike, you'll buy Engine Ice!
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May 5, 2016 04:23
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Beach Bum posted:Started the bike in the garage on a whim yesterday. I was startled when it caught nearly instantly. Idled fine, revved to 4k or so a couple times just fine as well. However, I'd forgotten to remove the seat, so I pulled the key. Then it wouldn't start again. Battery voltage at rest was 11.5-12.2v, voltage while starting was under a volt. My battery's knackered, ain't it? Got my new battery in today. holy shitballs my old battery was absolute toast since I owned the bike, new battery cranks this thing off in a heartbeat and my lights actually do stuff now!
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May 5, 2016 05:04
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Sagebrush posted:I asked a friend who works at the water department about this, and he said that most sanitary sewer systems can handle pouring used coolant down the toilet in household quantities. The bacteria in the treatment plants love the ethylene glycol. Don't do this if you have a septic tank and don't pour it into an unfiltered storm sewer. Toilet it is! Thanks.
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May 5, 2016 05:17
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I use toyota red in my bieks. I dispose of it wherever the fucker pops the head or a hose.
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May 5, 2016 06:23
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Sagebrush posted:Any time you buy electronic parts, always buy at least one extra. If the parts are cheap, buy twice what you need. You'll always blow one up or lose one right at the moment you really need it. I know! I know and I didn't do it.  Bonus deal: I cut the end off the cable braid without a hot knife and oh god, plastic pubes everywhere 
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May 5, 2016 07:11
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Pope Mobile posted:Uh, excuse me, you should be using Maxima Coolanol at $14 for 2L because it's designed for motorcycles! If you really love your bike, you'll buy Engine Ice! Certain bikes do actually need special coolants because they can have dissimilar-enough metals (say between engine block and water pump) to cause galvanic corrosion if you use just flat water/glycol mixes. I can't remember which bike it was - one of the 90s litre bikes, I think - that normal coolant would completely destroy the engine in under six months, because it had a copper rad.
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May 5, 2016 07:24
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Wait, oil isn't coolant? What is going on
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May 5, 2016 07:39
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clutchpuck posted:Wait, oil isn't coolant? What is going on At least we can look forward to Edit Wait, oil as coolant is one of those things Buell does, right? Chichevache fucked around with this message at 09:58 on May 5, 2016 |
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May 5, 2016 09:45
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I mean I guess you could use oil as a coolant if you made your radiator two or three times bigger.
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May 5, 2016 09:46
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Certain bikes do actually need special coolants because they can have dissimilar-enough metals (say between engine block and water pump) to cause galvanic corrosion if you use just flat water/glycol mixes. I can't remember which bike it was - one of the 90s litre bikes, I think - that normal coolant would completely destroy the engine in under six months, because it had a copper rad. Honda used magnesium water pump housings on their 80s MX bikes which gave them a very finite life span
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May 5, 2016 10:23
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Chichevache posted:At least we can look forward to I think he's referencing malaise era, air cooled bikes.
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May 5, 2016 13:27
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Pope Mobile posted:Uh, excuse me, you should be using Maxima Coolanol at $14 for 2L because it's designed for motorcycles! If you really love your bike, you'll buy Engine Ice! Don't buy engine ice if you live somewhere with a winter, as engine ice is coolant only, not antifreeze Or do buy it but swap it out before winter hits
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May 5, 2016 19:44
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I think he's referencing malaise era, air cooled bikes. 
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May 5, 2016 19:53
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Renaissance Robot posted:I mean I guess you could use oil as a coolant if you made your radiator two or three times bigger. Air cooled gixxers are a good exmaple of engines that are effectively oil cooled. They have a large oil cooler, a very high volume pump and very generous oil galleries. It's pretty much the only way to have a fully faired bike with a 4 valve head which is still 'air cooled'. It's also why that whole engine family (including B12's) have such small and ineffective-looking fins.
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May 5, 2016 19:53
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Suzuki also added a small oil cooler to the faired GS500. I guess the thinking is that the fairing significantly reduces airflow over the fins.
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May 5, 2016 21:13
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Don't run engine ice it is garbage for your engine passages if you don't change it. Antifreeze for street temperatures, straight water for track.
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May 5, 2016 21:52
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Would installing an oil-cooler on an air-cooled bike that doesn't have one be worth the cost? Like, would there be any performance gain at all, or would it just add a couple years onto the end of the engine life?
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May 5, 2016 22:09
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Would installing an oil-cooler on an air-cooled bike that doesn't have one be worth the cost? Like, would there be any performance gain at all, or would it just add a couple years onto the end of the engine life? It'd probably let you extend the service intervals but god knows how you would quantify that without a team of engineers. e: should mention that it would only work on something that has an oil pump and lots of air cooled engines just sort of splash it around in a she'll-be-right-mate way Slavvy fucked around with this message at 22:23 on May 5, 2016 |
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May 5, 2016 22:19
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Would installing an oil-cooler on an air-cooled bike that doesn't have one be worth the cost? Like, would there be any performance gain at all, or would it just add a couple years onto the end of the engine life? It would be worth it on a bike that you loved dearly but which constantly overheated due to poor engineering, probably something from the 70s. It's not just drilling two holes, attaching a pipe to each and a cooler in between. It has to flow from a high pressure area to a low pressure area (which will bleed off pressure downstream of the area you've drilled), regulated by a thermostat set for ideal temp and viscosity. Finding room for that in an engine block which wasn't made with oil cooling in mind is pretty serious engineering, and it ignores the engineering that went in to the non-oil cooled engine in the first place. This is not an uncommon internet forum project, usually borne from overthinking theoretical aspects while ignoring practical ones (which is one of the main ways the internet makes you stupid). I bet the results in most cases is the project owner announcing wonderful (yet non-existent or terrible) results but changing bikes not long after. Barring any leaks, worst case you've compromised some internal spaces which had some purpose in lubrication, reduced the total system pressure or made the oil run too cool - so the oil itself will last a few thousand miles more before it needs changing, but the engine life is drastically reduced. Sorry, didn't mean to snap at your question, it's just a thing I've noticed which I haven't had the chance to rant about before. Shorter answer: No, apart from on some bikes, which are poo poo. If you have a bike where an oil cooler mod is worth it, get another bike.
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May 5, 2016 22:43
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Ola posted:It would be worth it on a bike that you loved dearly but which constantly overheated due to poor engineering, probably something from the 70s. It's not just drilling two holes, attaching a pipe to each and a cooler in between. It has to flow from a high pressure area to a low pressure area (which will bleed off pressure downstream of the area you've drilled), regulated by a thermostat set for ideal temp and viscosity. Finding room for that in an engine block which wasn't made with oil cooling in mind is pretty serious engineering, and it ignores the engineering that went in to the non-oil cooled engine in the first place. This is not an uncommon internet forum project, usually borne from overthinking theoretical aspects while ignoring practical ones (which is one of the main ways the internet makes you stupid). I bet the results in most cases is the project owner announcing wonderful (yet non-existent or terrible) results but changing bikes not long after. Barring any leaks, worst case you've compromised some internal spaces which had some purpose in lubrication, reduced the total system pressure or made the oil run too cool - so the oil itself will last a few thousand miles more before it needs changing, but the engine life is drastically reduced. This is a good post.
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May 5, 2016 23:01
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Related - Depending on bike design and clearance, you may be able to increase the oil capacity with a spacer on the sump, or a larger replacement sump casing. http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/2085/PN-040-0953/Oil-Sump-Extension-for-R100GS I've seen designs like this with cooling fins machined in to aid passive oil cooling.
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May 5, 2016 23:09
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Don't buy engine ice if you live somewhere with a winter, as engine ice is coolant only, not antifreeze from here http://www.engineice.com/faqs/ "A: Yes, Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is an antifreeze offering freeze protection to -26Fº (26 degrees below zero)" vs -36 for antifreeze? Not saying you should use it, but I thought that it was OK for at least this one thing.
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May 5, 2016 23:16
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Ola posted:It would be worth it on a bike that you loved dearly but which constantly overheated due to poor engineering, probably something from the 70s. It's not just drilling two holes, attaching a pipe to each and a cooler in between. It has to flow from a high pressure area to a low pressure area (which will bleed off pressure downstream of the area you've drilled), regulated by a thermostat set for ideal temp and viscosity. Finding room for that in an engine block which wasn't made with oil cooling in mind is pretty serious engineering, and it ignores the engineering that went in to the non-oil cooled engine in the first place. This is not an uncommon internet forum project, usually borne from overthinking theoretical aspects while ignoring practical ones (which is one of the main ways the internet makes you stupid). I bet the results in most cases is the project owner announcing wonderful (yet non-existent or terrible) results but changing bikes not long after. Barring any leaks, worst case you've compromised some internal spaces which had some purpose in lubrication, reduced the total system pressure or made the oil run too cool - so the oil itself will last a few thousand miles more before it needs changing, but the engine life is drastically reduced. Awesome, thanks, I've always wondered. It's a 1996 XJ600. The US version is the Seca II, which came without an oil cooler. The European version is the Diversion, many of which did have a cooler. It routes oil through a sandwich plate between the filter and engine to the cooler. I've never been clear on why the Diversions needed them, when the Secas work just fine without (maybe because they were basically a courier bike in Europe?). There have never been any issues with overheating on mine, except one time I got caught in a construction zone on the interstate in August. I considered it when I was doing a lot of low-speed city driving and commuting, but it's basically a weekend toy now, so it aircools just fine.
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May 6, 2016 00:01
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One of the greatest mysteries of motorcycling is how the Japanese differentiate between European and American markets. "Oh no we can't call it the Diversion in America, they will misunderstand, we have to call it Seca"  Perhaps it's a reflection of how we westerners struggle to understand eastern culture, or perhaps it's the behemoth organizations with their regional dukes and marketing chieftains plus the government tariffs and road regulations which fragment the initial idea even more. But while a BMW R1200GS can have max 100 hp in France and (maybe??) has a speed limiter in Japan, it isn't called the BMW Cake Terrific in one place and the BMW CR13 in the other.So there can be a myriad of reasons for why it had an oil cooler in one place and not in another, like "marketing thinks it looks cool" or "we have to use up this stock of coolers" or a legacy thing from when US law limited import displacement or much more. The Diversion was a hugely successful bike over here anyway, as a courier, a tourer, general purpose, anything. Oh and thanks Chiche! 
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May 6, 2016 00:29
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Ola posted:It would be worth it on a bike that you loved dearly but which constantly overheated due to poor engineering, probably something from the 70s. It's not just drilling two holes, attaching a pipe to each and a cooler in between. It has to flow from a high pressure area to a low pressure area (which will bleed off pressure downstream of the area you've drilled), regulated by a thermostat set for ideal temp and viscosity. Finding room for that in an engine block which wasn't made with oil cooling in mind is pretty serious engineering, and it ignores the engineering that went in to the non-oil cooled engine in the first place. This is not an uncommon internet forum project, usually borne from overthinking theoretical aspects while ignoring practical ones (which is one of the main ways the internet makes you stupid). I bet the results in most cases is the project owner announcing wonderful (yet non-existent or terrible) results but changing bikes not long after. Barring any leaks, worst case you've compromised some internal spaces which had some purpose in lubrication, reduced the total system pressure or made the oil run too cool - so the oil itself will last a few thousand miles more before it needs changing, but the engine life is drastically reduced. There are bikes, the sohc cb750 is one I believe, where you can put an oil cooler inline with an oil return line since some of the oil lines are external
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May 6, 2016 00:35
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I'm fine with whatever names bikes have, as long as they have names. In America my bike is a Hawk GT; in Japan it's a Bros 650 (because they made a 400 and a 650, you see, and those bikes were like "brothers", so  ) but either one is better than "NT650". Giving an emotionally-laden vehicle like a motorcycle a simple numerical code is such a cold, calculating, German thing to do. More Fireblades and Hurricanes and Blackbirds please.
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May 6, 2016 00:42
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