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jackpot posted:Any other car I've owned I would've been fine with that, but how in christ do you buy an aftermarket to replace this? Rent a sawzall from The Home Depot and go to town. don't For real, though, check out what crutchfield.com has to say about your car. Something might work? Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 21:53 on May 6, 2016 |
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May 6, 2016 21:51
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Slavvy posted:
But, but that's when VW introduced the Wasserboxer and fully gave up on air cooled. A 2003 beetle is a time bomb, though. My guess, at 80k? Next big expense will be your flexplate exploding.
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May 6, 2016 22:14
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jackpot posted:Any other car I've owned I would've been fine with that, but how in christ do you buy an aftermarket to replace this? Oh. Good luck with the factory stereo repair specialist guy of whom there is only one in your town so he can charge astronomical prices! That's been my experience with kia/hyundai when the bluetooth thingy (or basically anything else) fails on the factory stereo. You could just get an aftermarket bluetooth thing and manually mute the stereo when you get a call.
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May 6, 2016 22:44
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Slavvy posted:Any mechanic who tells you this about a vw beetle with 80,000 miles on the clock is either a raging ignoramus, a massive fool or a cunning bastard who knows more terrible poo poo will happen soon and make him more money. It's just wildly untrue. Both of those cars are terrible but the beetle is genuinely atrocious by 'normal' car standards. Stop buying vw's. Not hyperbolising, I'm speaking as a mechanic who's had to deal with far too many of them to be nice. Geirskogul posted:A 2003 beetle is a time bomb, though. My guess, at 80k? Next big expense will be your flexplate exploding. Thank you both for your honesty. I appreciate it. We are most definitely not looking at buying Volkswagens again. For both of us, these were our very first cars.
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May 6, 2016 23:05
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Wowsers that is one hell of a trial by fire. Buy a toyota/honda/mazda in future, they're made well and have few problems. If none of those are possible for whatever reason, step down to the next tier of hyundai/nissan/ford/gm/mitsubishi. Unless you care a LOT about looking cool/rich, or dynamic driving experience is something that matters to you, there is basically no point in buying any european car.
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May 6, 2016 23:21
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jackpot posted:Any other car I've owned I would've been fine with that, but how in christ do you buy an aftermarket to replace this? There is a double DIN under there; you just have have to remove the top half of the car to get to it: https://youtu.be/CRFkS70jSS8
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May 6, 2016 23:36
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jackpot posted:Any other car I've owned I would've been fine with that, but how in christ do you buy an aftermarket to replace this? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120997342/Metra-99-7342-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121 
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May 7, 2016 00:20
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The Ferret King posted:I recall The Incredible Machine being my first exposure to some mechanical terms.
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May 7, 2016 00:36
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You know, a while back I entertained the idea that this could be as easy as taking the mic out of my roof and throwing in a new one. What a dumb, naive fucker I am.
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May 7, 2016 03:25
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nothing to see here
Friar Zucchini fucked around with this message at 07:26 on May 7, 2016 |
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May 7, 2016 07:04
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In attempting to fix my power steering I broke the high pressure outlet pipe. The pipe is £180 from Vauxhall so I decided to cut off and replace the fuckered section. I got some high pressure hose with the correct fitting for the pump outlet on one end and a fitting for a flared 10mm pipe on the other. Great stuff I thought. Only problem is my pipe flaring tool is way too weak to flare the 10mm steel pipe. What are my options for sorting this? I am trying to avoid removing the pipe from the vehicle. I'm thinking: -Apply heat to pipe, or -Beg borrow or steal a more beefy flaring tool, or -Get my wallet out and replace the whole pipe , or -Get it towed to a garage and have them sort it First option would be the cheapest, but I'm not sure it would work, and I can see myself burning myself or the van trying to hear and flare a hot pipe. Thoughts? It's pretty irrelevant but it's a 2008 Vauxhall Vivaro 2.0 CDTI 
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May 7, 2016 11:41
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Spend the £180 (or get a used hose from a breaker / ebay). The high pressure side of a power system system can easily exceed 1000 psi, so I wouldn't risk trying and bodge it.
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May 7, 2016 12:22
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I think one from a breaker would fail in the same way while removing it, it's a common problem. The accepted fix is to cut the pipe before removing the PS pump then reattach it with flared fittings, so I don't think what I'm trying to do is sketchy. The original fitting into the pump is a flared pipe, I'm just adding a bit of high pressure pipe between the flared pipe and and pump. I'm using proper high pressure pipe I had made up by Pirtek, not some random bit I had lying about. My old man did suggest using an olive instead of a flare but I don't think it would hold the pressure.
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May 7, 2016 12:46
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Bring a pack of smokes / 6 pack to a local independent shop and say first one to flare this gets it. I had a local shop I was friendly with and would ask them to do things like press gears onto the crank for my aircooled and they'd happily do it because they knew I'd send a pizza or hand the guy their favorite smokes.
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May 7, 2016 12:55
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Yeah I think that is the best bet. It's not particularly drivable and my usual mechanic is 25 miles away so I think I'll try and find a mobile mechanic to come round and do it.
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May 7, 2016 14:04
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Slavvy posted:Wowsers that is one hell of a trial by fire. Buy a toyota/honda/mazda in future, they're made well and have few problems. If none of those are possible for whatever reason, step down to the next tier of hyundai/nissan/ford/gm/mitsubishi. Unless you care a LOT about looking cool/rich, or dynamic driving experience is something that matters to you, there is basically no point in buying any european car. Well, if you live in a place where rust is going to be a risk, I'd read up on what cars (i.e plenty that you mentioned) have bad rust protection and be mindful of that when going to look at a car.
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May 7, 2016 18:52
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If you live in the rust belt, scratch mazdas off of slavvys list and proceed as directed.
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May 7, 2016 18:54
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stump posted:In attempting to fix my power steering I broke the high pressure outlet pipe. The pipe is £180 from Vauxhall so I decided to cut off and replace the fuckered section. I got some high pressure hose with the correct fitting for the pump outlet on one end and a fitting for a flared 10mm pipe on the other. stump posted:My old man did suggest using an olive instead of a flare but I don't think it would hold the pressure. Alternatively, rather than replacing just one section and appending it to the old pipe, could you replace the entire run pump to rack with a new hose, thus having normal fittings both ends? For my part, can anyone identify what the hell these calipers are from? The pads in them were Ferodo FDB600, which appears to be a Hyundai/Ssangyong fitment?      
InitialDave fucked around with this message at 22:41 on May 7, 2016 |
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May 7, 2016 21:54
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Hey guys I have a 99 GM with the VAT system. I've been having trouble starting the car, the "Security" light comes on and the starter wont engage. I measured the ohms today on the keys: they should be around 1470 ohm's, and key one is 1460 (which is my main key) and the other is 1450 (which is the spare that never works) So. Should I buy a generic VATs coded ignition, or new keys. Thanks!!
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May 8, 2016 03:41
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Try the reset thing http://passlock.bloggstar.com/reset-passlock-vats/
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May 8, 2016 03:43
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Christobevii3 posted:Try the reset thing I just went out there with the key that never works, and it started. Security light is on, so I guess I have to wait until I actually need to go somewhere. Like work. For this to be a problem. Report back tomorrow!!
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May 8, 2016 03:53
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InitialDave posted:Would an olive hold enough to get it somewhere? I'm not sure a man-in-a-van mechanic would necessarily have a suitable flaring tool on hand - however, a hydraulics guy might, so if you could check with somewhere (whoever sorted your new hose for you?) and take it there? Based on the pad part number and the casting logo my best guess is either a non-turbo nissan silvia or a primera based vehicle but they fit a shitload of 90's nissans.
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May 8, 2016 05:08
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stump posted:In attempting to fix my power steering I broke the high pressure outlet pipe. The pipe is £180 from Vauxhall so I decided to cut off and replace the fuckered section. I got some high pressure hose with the correct fitting for the pump outlet on one end and a fitting for a flared 10mm pipe on the other. I'm sure that the correct answer is that you can never have too many tools so you should spend the £180 on a beefy flaring tool. Those vice mounted ones are nice.
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May 8, 2016 10:00
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Slavvy posted:Based on the pad part number and the casting logo my best guess is either a non-turbo nissan silvia or a primera based vehicle but they fit a shitload of 90's nissans. Some targeted poking around makes me think they're from an early-90s UK market 200SX (actually an S13 180, but they wanted it to sound 20 better, I guess).
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May 8, 2016 11:41
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Tomarse posted:I'm sure that the correct answer is that you can never have too many tools so you should spend the £180 on a beefy flaring tool. Those vice mounted ones are nice. Tempting as it is, I'd really rather not as I've got an MOT to pay for. InitialDave posted:Would an olive hold enough to get it somewhere? I'm not sure a man-in-a-van mechanic would necessarily have a suitable flaring tool on hand - however, a hydraulics guy might, so if you could check with somewhere (whoever sorted your new hose for you?) and take it there? I've gone with this route. Used an olive, and put as much of a flare on as I could to prevent the pipe being forced past the olive. I've got it together and done some low speed manoeuvres and its holding up so far. It's booked for an MOT tomorrow so I'll ask the garage to do whatever he sees fit to make it good. Some googling about using compression fittings on PS high pressure lines suggest some people do it and get away with it long term, but it's a bad idea for anything but a temporary fix. Cheers for the advice everybody.
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May 8, 2016 17:32
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Real stupid question, but is there/are there good resources for learning about OBD II systems? Like, I'm really curious as to what kind of signals the sensors send, what the computer "looks" for, that kind of thing. I know so little about the system as it is that I'm not sure if this question even makes sense. Are there even data sheets for the sensors? Like, if you were nerdy and bored what tools would you need to see what's broken?
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May 8, 2016 20:07
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stump posted:Some googling about using compression fittings on PS high pressure lines suggest some people do it and get away with it long term, but it's a bad idea for anything but a temporary fix. Carrying the spare part to fix a problem guarantees it will never, ever fail.
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May 8, 2016 20:10
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Ok, I'm having something of a problem. I have a Dodge Intrepid with the 3.5L V6. It's throwing the P0353 (Ignition Coil C primary/secondary failure) code. The car runs/idles rough (like it's missing on one cylinder), and will occasionally throw a misfire cyl3/6/random code. I have done the following (as per the FSM): Inspected the ignition coil plug. Verified 12VDC from pin 1 to pin 3 (coil drive to return). Verified <1ohm resistance from pin 1 on coil pack plug to PCM pin 2. (PCM -> coil pack wire is good) Verified >5ohm resistance with PCM plugged in. (PCM drive circuit resistance nominal) Replaced spark plugs. Replaced spark plug wires. Replaced coil pack. (Old coil pack and new coil pack show similar resistances). Replaced PCM. The new PCM ran fine for ~30 seconds, then threw P0353, so there absolutely is a fault somewhere. There are (as far as I can tell) no other parts in this system. What else could possibly be the problem?
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May 8, 2016 20:55
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Nubile Hillock posted:Real stupid question, but is there/are there good resources for learning about OBD II systems? Like, I'm really curious as to what kind of signals the sensors send, what the computer "looks" for, that kind of thing. I know so little about the system as it is that I'm not sure if this question even makes sense. Kastein. Paging Dr. Kastein. Will you please come to the lobby?
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May 8, 2016 22:09
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What year model of intrepid so I can look up if it has the horrid sideways distributor ran off the crankshaft?
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May 8, 2016 22:22
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Christobevii3 posted:What year model of intrepid so I can look up if it has the horrid sideways distributor ran off the crankshaft?
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May 8, 2016 23:00
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Nubile Hillock posted:Real stupid question, but is there/are there good resources for learning about OBD II systems? Like, I'm really curious as to what kind of signals the sensors send, what the computer "looks" for, that kind of thing. I know so little about the system as it is that I'm not sure if this question even makes sense. A lot of the info you're looking for would be in a factory service manual - the FSM will often explain what signals each sensor sends, how to diagnose each sensor, etc. Kastein would be the most knowledgeable about this though. I will say OBD2 systems vary from make to make, and sometimes even year to year, and each manufacturer's implementation may (and often does) use completely different types of sensors for each subsystem - i.e. the throttle position sensor on a 96 Jeep may give a completely different type of signal than a throttle position sensor on a 2010 BMW.
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May 9, 2016 02:52
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What tires should I get for my rear wheel drive car for winter. It's only bellow 40 for about three months out of the year but it rains more than just about anywhere else in the world. Never had anything but 4x4s for the winter with all terrains or better.
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May 9, 2016 07:18
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Melthir posted:What tires should I get for my rear wheel drive car for winter. It's only bellow 40 for about three months out of the year but it rains more than just about anywhere else in the world. Never had anything but 4x4s for the winter with all terrains or better. I'd get proper winter tires, put them on when the average temperature is ~41 and be comfortable and safe. Especially if it snows or goes below freezing (early mornings?). But even if it doesn't, winter tires are going to handle everything much better at below 40 than summer tires or all season tires (which suck) do.
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May 9, 2016 08:10
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InitialDave posted:Get a cheap scrappy pipe and a joint, have someone with the kit flare it so it's a bolt-on solution, chuck it in the back of the van. The issue being is that part needing flared is the part attached to the vehicle which routes round the back of the radiator and over the gearbox, so it's pretty hard to replace. You are very right about carrying a part guarantees it won't fail... until you forgot why you were carrying it and get rid of it! It made it to the garage anyway, so hopefully he can sort out my fuckery.
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May 9, 2016 11:48
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Melthir posted:What tires should I get for my rear wheel drive car for winter. It's only bellow 40 for about three months out of the year but it rains more than just about anywhere else in the world. Never had anything but 4x4s for the winter with all terrains or better. Shop by size on tirerack, remove any garbage brands from the results, and start comparing ratings and read reviews.
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May 9, 2016 16:05
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I need to have my GXP shipped from Minnesota to Seattle. Are there any particular shipping companies i should avoid? I have never had to do this before so it's all new to me.
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May 9, 2016 18:52
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I've got a 2008 Ford Fusion and the brakes are starting to go from "okay so they're a bit soft" to "I'm going to get in a loving accident the first time I need to stop in a hurry", can you guys just give me a ballpark on what getting new brakes cost? I had all my servicing and replacements covered for five years when I bought the car and that was neat (I know gently caress-all about cars so it was actually super helpful to just drive it to the dealership every six montsh and go "look do whatever needs doing, I'm not gonna pay for any of this so do all the things I don't care"), so I figure I'll see if someone will sell me another plan like that -- and I figure the answer is "yes", so I want to know what just getting the brakes replaced on their own will cost so I can try to figure out if another plan or just getting things fixed as they break is the better deal.
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May 9, 2016 20:22
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The shop down the road from me quoted my wife a little over $600 for brake service on 4 wheels for a Nissan Altima. It was for pads and brake fluid flush only, they were going to use the same rotors. Seemed like a rip off so we're shopping around. Will probably have a family member do it instead.
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May 9, 2016 20:36
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Have family do it, it's easy and not $600 in parts.
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May 9, 2016 20:50
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