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Hadn't painted anything in a while, so I cranked out a quick Ironsides (Malifaux) today. Felt good to get back.  Man, those mold likes are way worse in the pictures than they are in real life. Good job, rear end in a top hat past me who built this model without cleaning it properly.
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May 6, 2016 08:19
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Today I found out that citadel washes now only come in ridiculous oversized pots. I've had a lot of luck with really heavily watered down inks. All the skeletons I've posted have been white primer washed with Scale 75's Inktense Chestnut thinned about 20:1, makes a nice Sepia, 10:1 makes a nice brown wash. Their Black ink works as a nice Nuln Oil when thinned with similar amounts. The downside is if you don't thin them enough or mix them thoroughly they will dry a bit glossy. I still need a good replacement for Drakenhof though as the blue ink is way too blue. Drakenhof is pretty much the only one I use on pretty much every model these days (shadows on skin, shade for red, over white in eye sockets and over dark grey for insta-black with shading). Once I've found a suitable substitute I'll be GW free. stabbington posted:Hadn't painted anything in a while, so I cranked out a quick Ironsides (Malifaux) today. Felt good to get back. Those jeans are really realistic, nice work.
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May 6, 2016 08:23
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Literally just a couple layers of thinned VMA Insignia Blue over a white over black zenithal prime, roughly highlighted/weathered with VMC Ivory. Super easy to do.
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May 6, 2016 08:27
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Today I found out that citadel washes now only come in ridiculous oversized pots. Make your own! So much cheaper and you can make as much as you need, cost of 12p for the same amount that GW used to charge £2.30 for.
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May 6, 2016 09:09
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Army Painter Dark/Strong/Soft Tone Inks are supposed to be almost identical to Badab Black/Devlan Mud/Gryphonne Sepia washes.
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May 6, 2016 09:16
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sassassin posted:Army Painter Dark/Strong/Soft Tone Inks are supposed to be almost identical to Badab Black/Devlan Mud/Gryphonne Sepia washes. Seconding this.
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May 6, 2016 11:45
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Today I found out that citadel washes now only come in ridiculous oversized pots. Nthing Army Painter, they have really good washes.
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May 6, 2016 12:11
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Those jeans look incredible!
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May 6, 2016 12:19
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Today is the 11th day in a row of rain here in Washington, D.C. I just want to prime my loving Baneblade. I'm going crazy.
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May 6, 2016 12:44
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I'm on the same rain train in PA with a stack of oath models I can't prime. Army Painter washes are very good, as has been pointed out before. I also like to mix watered down black paint and Future, which gives great, tight black lining but requires a brushed-on matte finish. (Otherwise you get super-glossy recesses where it should be darkest.)
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May 6, 2016 13:57
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I'm currently in the antipodes so I think Army Painter is hard to come by, might have to order online. Anyone used the Vallejo washes?
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May 6, 2016 14:12
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Speaking of Army Painter, Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut Gloss is pretty much the exact same thing as AP Strong Tone: Minwax on the left; AP on the right (before dull cote)   The AP was slightly thicker coming out of the can, but they went on pretty similarly. Both started to get sticky at about the same time (I brushed it one,) leasing me to believe that they are pretty much the same formulation. If you're doing a boatload of models and you want to save yourself $20+, just use the Minwax. EDIT: I know wood stain has been used for years by historical gamers, but I've never seen good side-by-side comparisons, so I happened to have both products, and decided to do an experiment.
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May 6, 2016 15:01
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Today I found out that citadel washes now only come in ridiculous oversized pots. I plan to do this as I start using up my citadel washes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEkMnP6p08I
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May 6, 2016 15:15
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I just picked up a miniature from 1976, so its been sitting around for 40 years without any paint on it and has that sort of greyish patina that lead gets. Is there any cleaning any of you know of that should or should not happen before I paint this guy up? I am unsure of the best care for lead figures other than you definitely don't want to keep them in scented wood boxes (mainly cedar) lest you invite lead rot to inhabit them.
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May 6, 2016 16:31
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nesbit37 posted:I just picked up a miniature from 1976, so its been sitting around for 40 years without any paint on it and has that sort of greyish patina that lead gets. Is there any cleaning any of you know of that should or should not happen before I paint this guy up? I am unsure of the best care for lead figures other than you definitely don't want to keep them in scented wood boxes (mainly cedar) lest you invite lead rot to inhabit them. It's just a patina, don't worry about it. If you give it a scrub in some soapy water, as per usual, you'll be fine.
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May 6, 2016 16:50
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Today I found out that citadel washes now only come in ridiculous oversized pots. They come in both; there's the standard citadel pot sized washes and there's the double-size tall pots. My FLGS sells both. Citadel paints overall though cost more than they're worth and the only reason to get them is so you know you're using the right shade of macragge blue or whatever without having to think about it.
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May 6, 2016 17:06
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berzerkmonkey posted:It's just a patina, don't worry about it. If you give it a scrub in some soapy water, as per usual, you'll be fine. Ok thanks. I am mostly worried about damaging the lead to be clear and figured removing it would be fine.
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May 6, 2016 17:27
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nesbit37 posted:Ok thanks. I am mostly worried about damaging the lead to be clear and figured removing it would be fine. You don't really have to worry about removing it - it's pretty much just discoloration. I've heard of "lead rot" but it seems to be only something grogs talk about a lot, yet have never seen, so it's unlikely that is your problem.
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May 6, 2016 17:30
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Yeah, its not lead rot. That I have seen and your mini's turn into pretty much a pile of metal dust. I don't know the chemistry behind it but I know it has something to do with interactions between the lead and what its stored in, so if you had the unfortunate luck of storing your lead minis in something like a cedar chest they are probably all dust now.
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May 6, 2016 17:40
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Give it a good lick
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May 6, 2016 18:17
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The Sex Cannon posted:Today is the 11th day in a row of rain here in Washington, D.C. I just want to prime my loving Baneblade. moths posted:I'm on the same rain train in PA with a stack of oath models I can't prime. Get a bottle of this. I was having the same issue in the winter and now it's all I use.
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May 6, 2016 18:25
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nesbit37 posted:I just picked up a miniature from 1976, so its been sitting around for 40 years without any paint on it and has that sort of greyish patina that lead gets. Is there any cleaning any of you know of that should or should not happen before I paint this guy up? I am unsure of the best care for lead figures other than you definitely don't want to keep them in scented wood boxes (mainly cedar) lest you invite lead rot to inhabit them. lick it clean you won't
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May 6, 2016 18:42
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I got tasked with painting a vampire Blood Bowl team for a client and I finished them up about two weeks ago. Figured I'd sit down and actually take some photos.    He asked for their bases to be autumnal, and I decided to go full-tilt with that and use orange and green as main colors as a kind of Halloween/pumpkin color motif.
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May 6, 2016 21:39
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The Sex Cannon posted:Today is the 11th day in a row of rain here in Washington, D.C. I just want to prime my loving Baneblade. Stand under an awning and do it, then bring it inside. That's what I did this week when I primed my Contemptor.
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May 6, 2016 22:50
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Zaphod42 posted:They come in both; there's the standard citadel pot sized washes and there's the double-size tall pots. Huh, the GW store here only had the large pots. I'm well aware of the paint alternatives, I generally use Model/Game color since they're more widely available. But I still really like the Citadel washes, and haven't experimented much with others.
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May 6, 2016 22:56
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I used to live in the tropics and never had an issue with high humidity or priming when it is raining. Test on some sprue then go wild. Obviously don't stand in the rain.
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May 6, 2016 23:53
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Big Willy Style posted:I used to live in the tropics and never had an issue with high humidity or priming when it is raining. Test on some sprue then go wild. Obviously don't stand in the rain. Same here, I'm in Louisiana. If humidity was an issue I couldn't prime eight months out of the year. The trick is to leave the spray paint outside, or put it outside an hour or so beige you prime.
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May 7, 2016 10:53
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Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
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Slimnoid posted:I got tasked with painting a vampire Blood Bowl team for a client and I finished them up about two weeks ago. Figured I'd sit down and actually take some photos. supercool, love the bases.
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May 7, 2016 11:28
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Completed the build stage of Project Battlewren with a quick trip to pick up some Scibor dwarf and celtic shields and plates; Painting next, likely appearing in the Oath thread in the near future.
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May 7, 2016 15:29
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I'm hoping to start up a Mordheim project in the next month, spurred into action by the free company going oop. Since i'm starting at scratch for it I figured I'd base all the warbands in a consistent manner. I have two questions that maybe you guys can help me with: 1) Is there any downside to MDF bases? It looks to be the same thickness as citadel bases, which were my original plan, but I can get all of the standard bases I would ever need for less than the price of 30 citadel bases. 2) I was thinking I'd base all the models with battlegrounds basing (still deciding on brown or grey ground) and use cork for heroes to stand on. I've never used cork before but from the looks of it cork sheet is going to be the best way to get what i'm after. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kitchen-Fred-Aldous-Cork-Sheet-3mm/dp/B00LN75VEO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462630706&sr=8-2&keywords=cork+sheet+3mm Is this stuff alright for what I want?
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May 7, 2016 15:36
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MrFlibble posted:I'm hoping to start up a Mordheim project in the next month, spurred into action by the free company going oop. Since i'm starting at scratch for it I figured I'd base all the warbands in a consistent manner. I have two questions that maybe you guys can help me with: No and Yes.
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May 7, 2016 15:50
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El Estrago Bonito posted:No and Yes. Thanks.
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May 7, 2016 15:56
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I recommended Army Painter Strong Tone as a devlan mud replacement and would like to apologise it's loving crap. Doesn't pool properly at all.
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May 7, 2016 15:57
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sassassin posted:I recommended Army Painter Strong Tone as a devlan mud replacement and would like to apologise it's loving crap. Doesn't pool properly at all. I've not had any problems with it.
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May 7, 2016 16:15
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thespaceinvader posted:I've not had any problems with it. The colour's just about right but it's giving an even tint instead of pooling in the details for heavy shadow as mud does. Looks thin and a bit flat. Might be alright with a second coat and more careful highlighting than normal. But it's not the straight replacement I was praying for.
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May 7, 2016 16:21
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sassassin posted:I recommended Army Painter Strong Tone as a devlan mud replacement and would like to apologise it's loving crap. Doesn't pool properly at all. Yeah I've never had a problem with it. It's fully possible that you have a bad bottle though.
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May 7, 2016 16:21
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Hopefully the dark & soft tones work better when I get around to trying them.
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May 7, 2016 17:44
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LazyAngel posted:Completed the build stage of Project Battlewren with a quick trip to pick up some Scibor dwarf and celtic shields and plates; Fantastic. Is he going to be a dwarf berserker lord for Kings of War? fwiw: If the army painter tone gets too watery it doesn't pool as nicely as some of the GW washes. Completely anecdotal of course, but it's a great cheap mucky shade if you haven't made your own yet (which will be my next step as my kickstarters roll in). Weirdo fucked around with this message at 20:07 on May 7, 2016 |
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May 7, 2016 20:03
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sassassin posted:The colour's just about right but it's giving an even tint instead of pooling in the details for heavy shadow as mud does. Looks thin and a bit flat. I've encountered the same problem with it but I adjusted my painting technique for it. Generally I'm painting a lot of greens/browns so I'll just paint to a shade or two brighter than what I actually want the final shade to be. Wash and it generally darkens to the shade I want. If I'm painting something that isn't green/brown gloss I'll gloss varnish first. Also to improve flow I usually thin mine down anywhere from a 75% Strong tone 25% part thinner(Generally Testers acrylic thinner)/water to a 50-50 mix depending on how much darker I want the model to end up being. Just have to wait for the paint/varnish you have applied to the model has a good 24 hours to cure before doing this as you might end up blending it more than washing it.
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May 7, 2016 20:13
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LazyAngel posted:Completed the build stage of Project Battlewren with a quick trip to pick up some Scibor dwarf and celtic shields and plates; Knocked out of the loving ballpark. I love goofy ideas with just smashing execution.
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May 7, 2016 20:13
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