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blk posted:What do you guys think this is worth? I don't know worth, but it's amazing that it's made it this long without having those hideous bumpers removed.
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May 8, 2016 18:53
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EVERYWHERE 
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blk posted:What do you guys think this is worth? God, that's so nice. I want it. I have no idea what those things are worth but $8k would be a BIN price for me.
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May 8, 2016 20:38
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Way too high. Weren't you just complaining that there's no e30s out there but you are looking at 11k 2002s?
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May 9, 2016 07:11
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I didn't realize that my CSB was actually, you know, non-existant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO3SoVNraCU
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May 9, 2016 15:15
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BraveUlysses posted:Way too high. Weren't you just complaining that there's no e30s out there but you are looking at 11k 2002s? I think I was the one complaining that there were no E30s. And there still aren't. 
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May 9, 2016 16:25
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I'd try to buy this 2002 instead Still over a day left so the price might go up, but it has been pretty steady for a few days.
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May 9, 2016 16:56
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ThirstyBuck posted:If I remember correctly the leads for the respective sensors are different lengths. When you put the exhaust back up, only the correct lead has enough reach to connect to the correct sensor. I hope this is correct. All the exhaust/shielding has been off for a month now. I think I know how it all goes back on. gently caress CDVs and gently caress bitch clips. Worth it though. 
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May 9, 2016 18:11
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Well poo poo, as a follow up to my post a few weeks ago about some groaning/chirping/squeaking for a couple seconds after start up in my E46, the guess that it is the starter not disengaging quickly enough may be the right one after all. I think my starter is beginning to really go out now. It is pretty sluggish to turn over, kind of like if the car had a dying battery. But at least for the moment it does turn over after hesitating a bit, but once it fires up everything is normal after that. No hesitation, no stumbling, no dim lights/electronics, etc. The car had been sitting for over a week, so my first thought was check the battery. The battery itself is only 2 years old (April 2014), and I threw it on a tender just to ensure it was fully charged. It reads ~12.4V at rest after sitting overnight, and the car shows a steady ~14.2V while in operation. Fuel filter was replaced not too long ago, and I don't have any other symptoms of a failing fuel pump, either. And of course replacing the starter on the E46+M54 looks like a pain in the dick, sigh. If the starter is on borrowed time I don't imagine I've got too long before it craps out entirely. May have to shell out for my indy shop to do this one for me. 
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May 9, 2016 18:17
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Guinness posted:Well poo poo, as a follow up to my post a few weeks ago about some groaning/chirping/squeaking for a couple seconds after start up in my E46, the guess that it is the starter not disengaging quickly enough may be the right one after all. I think my starter is beginning to really go out now. It is pretty sluggish to turn over, kind of like if the car had a dying battery. But at least for the moment it does turn over after hesitating a bit, but once it fires up everything is normal after that. No hesitation, no stumbling, no dim lights/electronics, etc. I replaced one in the dark with lovely tools, it can be done. It's not THAT bad. Ziploc posted:I hope this is correct. All the exhaust/shielding has been off for a month now. I think I know how it all goes back on. I replaced my bitch clips with a bolt and lock nut.
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May 9, 2016 18:35
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BlackMK4 posted:I replaced one in the dark with lovely tools, it can be done. It's not THAT bad. How did you go about it, from the top or bottom? The couple of DIYs I've pulled up make it look like it's tucked way the gently caress in there.
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May 9, 2016 18:38
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E46/13-ENGINE-Replacing_Your_Starter/13-ENGINE-Replacing_Your_Starter.htm This is the easiest way. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 18:45 on May 9, 2016 |
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May 9, 2016 18:43
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I use a loooooong (read: all my extensions joined into a wobbly megazord) extension to get at the bolts with my hand on a ratchet near the driveshaft. If you pull the drivers side inner fender and take the wheel off it will come out through there.
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May 9, 2016 19:41
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https://imgur.com/gallery/rZtcz I'll just leave that here 
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May 9, 2016 21:55
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fknlo posted:I'd try to buy this 2002 instead jesus it's like an anti-chrome sentiment thesis
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May 9, 2016 23:37
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Guinness posted:How did you go about it, from the top or bottom? The couple of DIYs I've pulled up make it look like it's tucked way the gently caress in there. Oh man,  to your weekend/week/whatever. I replaced the starter on my S52 E36 and it sucked rocks. I went at it from the top...and the bottom. Many say you can do it from the bottom only and I still question how they would have done it. You'll need an assload of wobbly extensions and if it's the same as the S52 an E12 torx socket. You can do most of it by yourself but get a second pair of hands when it comes to guiding the extension onto the E12 bolts and making sure the socket is fully seated. I can't imagine what I would do if I stripped that out.  Also don't forget to make sure the hot wire leading to the alternator is connected at the starter because you'll go from triumph of having your car start to total dread when the battery light comes on. ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS
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May 10, 2016 03:48
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The rubber plug on the driver rear of the touring fell out when I was underneath finishing up the CSB tonight. The carpet pad is completely soaked and there's rust forming around the hole. GUESS ITS TIME FOR A WINDSHIELD SEAL!
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May 10, 2016 04:55
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Starter chat: On the e46 you can do it without removing anything underneath, it will definitely frustrate you. You need about 3-4ft of wobbles/extensions to get at the bolts. On my ZHP I had no luck getting the top bolt with those, I had to go in from the top. But the e46 cowl is super easy to take off, then you can get in there with a gear wrench. I can't remember what size but there is a 12pt imperial gear wrench that will work for e-torx. Or the proper e-torx if you can find it. On e36 I can't see there being enough room between the block/firewall. I've never had to do one with the exhaust in place so I just lowered the trans and went about it that way. Never really had issues, but I can pull an e36 ZF gearbox in 2 hours from starting to jack it up so I have a lot of experience there. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 13:47 on May 10, 2016 |
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May 10, 2016 13:44
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Experiences with ECS Tuning? Looks like they have the best deal right now for a set of Konis, and I want some yellow in my life.
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May 10, 2016 15:16
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I bought my suspension refresh kit and some other bits from them, all good so far. They're closer than pelican and AZ to me so I can cheap out some on shipping.
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May 10, 2016 15:23
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T-Square posted:Experiences with ECS Tuning? Looks like they have the best deal right now for a set of Konis, and I want some yellow in my life. ECS is fine but keep looking, I have a really hard time believing that they are the cheapest for anything. I have been looking for koni fsd shocks/struts and importrp.com was very cheap
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May 10, 2016 15:25
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My suggestion is to just get the Koni Oranges unless you're actually going to track the thing hard. Otherwise you're pretty much throwing away money for a different color.
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May 10, 2016 16:31
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BlackMK4 posted:My suggestion is to just get the Koni Oranges unless you're actually going to track the thing hard. Otherwise you're pretty much throwing away money for a different color. It's pretty much going to be a track beater, I have a comfy new Corolla for DD duties. I heard that the oranges weren't really that great either? BraveUlysses posted:ECS is fine but keep looking, I have a really hard time believing that they are the cheapest for anything. I have been looking for koni fsd shocks/struts and importrp.com was very cheap poo poo, good call. I've never heard of importrp, they're a solid $30 cheaper for the whole set. Thanks! T-Square fucked around with this message at 18:39 on May 10, 2016 |
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May 10, 2016 18:34
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I drove that e36 convertible with the hosed up strut mounts and bald tires 625 miles back home. Bavarian Horse is in the stable, I think I'll make a project thread for it over the summer. Got a question about the clutch, though. It doesn't seem hosed, nice easy transitions without any noise or difficulty and it doesn't feel like its slipping out of gear. What it doesn't do is fully engage with my foot off the pedal, and by that I mean I can find a gear and dump it but not spin the tires... it kind of just catches up with the tach and rolls along without breaking traction. So whats that about? the factory dual-mass flywheel doing whatever it does after 20 years of abuse? Is this why people convert to the single-mass or is this indicating that its been converted (maybe poorly?) I'm going to pressure flush and bleed the master/slave this weekend and see if it changes anything.
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May 10, 2016 18:44
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T-Square posted:It's pretty much going to be a track beater, I have a comfy new Corolla for DD duties. I heard that the oranges weren't really that great either? there's one more company that i cant remember the name of but they're even lower than importrp...check google shopping
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May 10, 2016 19:00
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Bacon Hat posted:I drove that e36 convertible with the hosed up strut mounts and bald tires 625 miles back home. Bavarian Horse is in the stable, I think I'll make a project thread for it over the summer. Even if its a M, you're not exactly going to be able to roast them willy nilly. This is a ~25 year old car design you're talking about here.
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May 10, 2016 20:16
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BraveUlysses posted:there's one more company that i cant remember the name of but they're even lower than importrp...check google shopping I'm not turning up much else, IRP has them for $96/rears and $150/fronts. Looks like everywhere else on google shopping has them at around $103-$105/rear and around $160/fronts. I'll keep looking.
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May 10, 2016 20:23
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SuperDucky posted:Even if its a M, you're not exactly going to be able to roast them willy nilly. This is a ~25 year old car design you're talking about here. Right, its only a 2.8L, but it feels like an imaginary block of wood is taped up above the pedal and not letting it come up that last inch to engage fully. The opposite of other clutch hydraulics ive worn out that feel like it would disengage if i could only depress the pedal another inch... if that makes any sense. Other than that i saw nothing wrong with clutch operation throughout the trip and around town.
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May 10, 2016 20:38
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Bacon Hat posted:Got a question about the clutch, though. It doesn't seem hosed, nice easy transitions without any noise or difficulty and it doesn't feel like its slipping out of gear. What it doesn't do is fully engage with my foot off the pedal, and by that I mean I can find a gear and dump it but not spin the tires... it kind of just catches up with the tach and rolls along without breaking traction. The canonical test for a dead clutch is to get going 30mph or so, put it in fourth and absolutely floor it. You'll be able to pretty clearly feel the engine revving faster than the car's accelerating. I would suspect the clutch more than a flywheel yet.
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May 10, 2016 20:40
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Bacon Hat posted:Right, its only a 2.8L, but it feels like an imaginary block of wood is taped up above the pedal and not letting it come up that last inch to engage fully. The opposite of other clutch hydraulics ive worn out that feel like it would disengage if i could only depress the pedal another inch... if that makes any sense. Other than that i saw nothing wrong with clutch operation throughout the trip and around town. So you can pull the clutch pedal up the rest of the way? If so, you have a baad master or slave (or it's leaked fluid from the lines). Otherwise this just sounds like a spanked clutch that's slipping.
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May 10, 2016 20:46
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Jonny 290 posted:The canonical test for a dead clutch is to get going 30mph or so, put it in fourth and absolutely floor it. You'll be able to pretty clearly feel the engine revving faster than the car's accelerating. I would suspect the clutch more than a flywheel yet. Will try, thanks for the heads up. Motronic posted:So you can pull the clutch pedal up the rest of the way? If so, you have a baad master or slave (or it's leaked fluid from the lines). You know i have not tried physically pulling the pedal up, but i did plan on pressure flush/bleeding it. will also try, thanks In the event its still got the dual-mass flywheel when i have it replaced, does anyone recommend conversion to the single-mass type instead of putting a new dual-mass in?
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May 10, 2016 21:28
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you might have a clutch delay valve that should be deleted before you flush it.
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May 10, 2016 22:01
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BraveUlysses posted:you might have a clutch delay valve that should be deleted before you flush it. Right, i just read about those in the same places i found people shittalking the dual-mass, wouldn't be surprised if mine was missing both. I'm also shopping out the front struts and mounts, probably going with the KYBs here http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kyb-front-left-gas-strut-333920/19171655-P and the Lemfoerders here http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/lemfoerder-strut-mount-l3030296056lem/10780064-P?searchTerm=strut+mounts Do those sound bad for normal use?
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May 10, 2016 22:11
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that's not showing any prices for me you should get the oem part numbers from bmwfans.info and cross shop a few stores autohausaz rmeuropean ecstuning are 3 main stores i use lemforder is a good brand, so is meyle. avoid URO brand parts at all costs.
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May 10, 2016 22:21
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 http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/bmw,1997,328i,2.8l+l6,1011957,suspension,strut,7584 Bilstein B4s are a crapton cheaper from Rockauto or Summit, same with the KYBs.
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May 10, 2016 22:23
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BraveUlysses posted:that's not showing any prices for me Wrar posted:
yea wowo, i just been defaulting to using a retailmenot code on advance for small stuff. cool and more thanks now that i think of it, using a code and picking up in one of the 4 stores next to me was the driving factor
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May 10, 2016 22:28
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Bacon Hat posted:In the event its still got the dual-mass flywheel when i have it replaced, does anyone recommend conversion to the single-mass type instead of putting a new dual-mass in? Valero makes a single mass conversion for it. Don't get a lightweight FW unless you want stupid amounts of chatter. I have a lightweight in mine and that bitch is coming straight out if I ever have to drop the trans again. Which hopefully I don't.
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May 10, 2016 22:49
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ThirstyBuck posted:Valero makes a single mass conversion for it. Don't get a lightweight FW unless you want stupid amounts of chatter. I have a lightweight in mine and that bitch is coming straight out if I ever have to drop the trans again. Which hopefully I don't. Cool thanks! unfortunately im at the mercy of the trans shop i take it to when it comes to kit selection, im not equipped (or skilled enough) to do lower engine/transmission work. So far i think ill go with the one shop that asked if i had the conversion and offered to do one. everyone else in the lakes area either hates or is afraid of these things, or a dealer.
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May 10, 2016 23:18
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Cobalt60 posted:jesus it's like an anti-chrome sentiment thesis It went for twenty four thousand dollars. 
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May 11, 2016 02:20
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http://gripforce.com/fx-stage-2-clutch-kit-and-chromoly-flywheel-bmw-325-328-525-528-m3-z3-e34-e36-e39-v6/ I used that one for my M3. 14lb flywheel, gear rattle is barely noticable when daily driving (only when it's fairly hot and you have the radio off) and it feels much better than a DMF.
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May 11, 2016 02:27
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Quoting myself in my ongoing lean code saga of sadness, updated my quoted postedWrar posted:E46 330i still stumbles and throws codes p0171 p0174. Did the fuel filter tonight. E46 330i still stumbles and throws codes p0171 p0174. On the upshot it does start more easily and seems to run a little better. Wrar fucked around with this message at 03:07 on May 11, 2016 |
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May 11, 2016 03:00
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