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There are a couple of gotchas to be aware of, which I've encountered myself: 1) someone repainting panels in single stage when the original paint was clearcoat, so you get a different result depending where you're working. 2) the car having been waxed with something like Turtle Wax Colour Magic, a coloured wax that is sold on the basis of hiding scratches (it sort of does, but I wouldn't recommend it at all over proper detailing). This can cause pads to colour when working what is actually a clearcoat finish.
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Apr 29, 2016 21:33
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I don't know what you guys are on about. The paint is clearly single stage. It is from the era where the single stage paint was used with plastic panels infused with color. The paint will age in a completely different way than the plastic body parts. He is on the right track, using a polisher and (hopefully?) Meg's UC on the paint. A lesser polisher will still get the job done, it'll just take more time, product and effort.
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Apr 29, 2016 21:37
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EVERYWHERE 
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Well I'll be - thought single-stage paint was like a 50's/60's and earlier thing. Go on with your polishing self!
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Apr 29, 2016 21:57
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amenenema posted:Well I'll be - thought single-stage paint was like a 50's/60's and earlier thing. Go on with your polishing self! Some Japanese cars were wearing single stage paint up until at least '99. Black and red, for sure. I don't know as much about American paint in that time, but single stage was definitely still around.
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Apr 29, 2016 22:00
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So this has probably been beat to death, but what's a recommended bang for buck DA polisher? Also I just got a chip down to metal on my M3. What's a recommended process to deal with this? http://i.imgur.com/KJzFnx9h.jpg
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Apr 29, 2016 22:18
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Sadi posted:So this has probably been beat to death, but what's a recommended bang for buck DA polisher? Pc7424xp Dr colorchip
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Apr 29, 2016 22:34
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ratbert90 posted:Pc7424xp Yep on the Porter Cable. I think that chip is big enough to go to a traditional touch-up method. I would apply several layers of factory touch-up to the spot over a couple weeks, letting each layer cure out fully. When it gets close to paint level, you can keep using color or switch to clear. I've had better results sticking with color all the way. Then, add a couple layers more so that it's just a hair over the paint level and let it sit for a month. By that time, it'll be nicely hard and wet sand, starting at 800 and going up/down from there, whatever it takes to blend, being careful to not hit the clear anywhere around the area.
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Apr 30, 2016 00:22
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meatpimp posted:Yep on the Porter Cable. Its not exactly factory paint.  The PO never gave me the contact info for the shop that painted it. So Ill probably just get E92 limerock orange and hope for the best. Sadi fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Apr 30, 2016 |
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Apr 30, 2016 02:03
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meatpimp posted:Some Japanese cars were wearing single stage paint up until at least '99. Black and red, for sure. I don't know as much about American paint in that time, but single stage was definitely still around. I had a gold 94 Camry that definitely had single stage paint.
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Apr 30, 2016 02:15
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Sadi posted:Its not exactly factory paint. Cripes... without a paint code, yeah, you're shooting in the dark. The good thing is that strong colors like that (and the red lit looked like in the first picture) don't show touch-up marks very much, as long as you get the color close. moxieman posted:I had a gold 94 Camry that definitely had single stage paint. Yup, that was about when the blue ford of discussion was made.
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Apr 30, 2016 21:07
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I have a buffer, but no DA polisher. Would it be possible to wash, clay, and seal parts of my truck by hand? No way I could do it all at once by hand, but different panels over a few days is pretty doable.
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May 1, 2016 04:41
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Sadi posted:Its not exactly factory paint. Go to a good body shop and have them read the paint with the fancy device and then sell you some perfectly matched paint?
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May 1, 2016 05:23
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QuarkMartial posted:I have a buffer, but no DA polisher. Would it be possible to wash, clay, and seal parts of my truck by hand? No way I could do it all at once by hand, but different panels over a few days is pretty doable. Sure can! Just make sure to clay any panel again before you seal the paint. Even with light driving.
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May 1, 2016 15:23
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Protip: Use dentist brushes for small chip touch-up (not the larger spot like Sadi's, that needs a regular brush). Disposable and work well with fine application. http://www.amazon.com/Grinigh-Appli...dentistry+brush
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May 1, 2016 18:12
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Just gave my car its first good home wash since moving to LA, also my first time using a no rinse cleaner (Optimum wash and wax no rinse). I am considering it a pre-wash for a more detailed wash next weekend, as I learned a few things along the way, such as: -Start from the top doesn't just mean roof first, some panels have portions that are higher/lower than others!!! -Fuzzy mits aren't the thing to use with these, I need many more microfiber towels. -There are a lot more scratches and pits down to the metal than I thought. They're all from the PO, so they are 100% tiny little dots of rusty metal (like, grain of sand size mostly). Still, looks better than it did (minus wheels, which I did not wash):  I have questions. How much difference is there in microfiber towels? I noticed that the ones I was drying with said on the packaging "removes old wax!" and they did feel a bit rough as I was drying (lightly), but that may just be because the existing wax is old and degraded. How much do I need to worry about those pits/scratches? I can't afford to have the paint repaired, so is there anything I can do to preserve it otherwise? 365 Nog Hogger fucked around with this message at 01:53 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 01:47
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Hood polishing round 2: I started too late in the evening to do all of it before dark. Once the hood is done the only remaining areas to work on are the tops of the doors and quarter panels.
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May 4, 2016 04:06
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Looking much better now. Don't forget to finish it off with some polisher (as I suspect the Ultimate Compound is a bit rough?) to get that final shine.
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May 4, 2016 07:55
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You can use UC as a polish, you just need a finishing pad to make it shine.
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May 4, 2016 19:13
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Can anyone recommend a good cordless vac? Like a dust buster kind of thing, I'm gonna grab something from Amazon the next few days.
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May 4, 2016 23:47
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So here's a really dumb question: I bought the Chemical brothers hex pad kit, and it comes with: Hex-Logic Heavy Cutting Pad (yellow) Hex-Logic Swirl and Scratch Remover Pad (orange) Hex-Logic Heavy Polishing Pad (green) Hex-Logic Perfect Surface Polishing Pad (white) Hex-Logic Glaze and Light Cleaner Foam Pad (blue) Hex-Logic Finishing Foam Pad (black) Hex-Logic Ultra-Fine Finishing Pad (red) If I am going to use Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish, then Ultimate wax, which pad goes with what? I'm thinking compound = yellow/orange, polish = green/white, and to apply wax is black? Am I close or way off here?
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May 4, 2016 23:58
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Hood polishing round 2: I started too late in the evening to do all of it before dark. Once the hood is done the only remaining areas to work on are the tops of the doors and quarter panels. Looking good! TacoHavoc posted:So here's a really dumb question: Denser foam for more cutting action, just as a general rule. I love the Hex-Logic pads, they are great for product management and control.
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May 5, 2016 01:07
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Do foam pads wear out? They don't seem to work as well after the first few sections even if I wash them. They still remove paint, but the finish doesn't come out looking as good. They also feel a lot softer all the way through than they did out of the package, but I don't know if that affects how well they work. I've been using these: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compoundcutting-foam-pad-60311.html
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May 5, 2016 19:10
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Do foam pads wear out? They don't seem to work as well after the first few sections even if I wash them. They still remove paint, but the finish doesn't come out looking as good. They also feel a lot softer all the way through than they did out of the package, but I don't know if that affects how well they work. Yep. Pads are wear items.
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May 5, 2016 19:11
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meatpimp posted:Yep. Pads are wear items. Would a different brand of pad last longer or are they all about the same aside from gimmicks?
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May 5, 2016 19:15
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Would a different brand of pad last longer or are they all about the same aside from gimmicks? There's no real answer to that, it all depends on the type of use, speed, pressure, heat, type of compound, type of paint, etc. I use Chemical Guys Hex pads, they last well and work well.
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May 5, 2016 19:18
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Do foam pads wear out? They don't seem to work as well after the first few sections even if I wash them. They still remove paint, but the finish doesn't come out looking as good. They also feel a lot softer all the way through than they did out of the package, but I don't know if that affects how well they work. The Harbor Freight pads wear out really quick. That's why they're about 1/2 the price of a name brand. I usually get one application per Harbor Freight vs 5+ from a Chemical Bros or 3M. Also using the correct speed setting helps too (ask me how I know  )
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May 5, 2016 19:51
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I ordered one of those kits with the different types of hex pads from amazon. Which pads are supposed to be used for what?
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May 6, 2016 19:28
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SperginMcBadposter posted:I ordered one of those kits with the different types of hex pads from amazon. Which pads are supposed to be used for what? Tacohavoc just posted this breakdown, which I believe to be correct. You also use a more coarse to finer product as you go from cut to polish. Hex-Logic Heavy Cutting Pad (yellow) Hex-Logic Swirl and Scratch Remover Pad (orange) Hex-Logic Heavy Polishing Pad (green) Hex-Logic Perfect Surface Polishing Pad (white) Hex-Logic Glaze and Light Cleaner Foam Pad (blue) Hex-Logic Finishing Foam Pad (black) Hex-Logic Ultra-Fine Finishing Pad (red)
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May 6, 2016 19:44
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There's some kind of aeresolized sap (best phrase I could come up with) all over my car. It looks like I drove through a cloud of it. It wont come off with washing or waxing, but comes off with my fingernail. Should I try claybar or go right into some serious polishing?
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May 10, 2016 22:30
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FogHelmut posted:There's some kind of aeresolized sap (best phrase I could come up with) all over my car. It looks like I drove through a cloud of it. It wont come off with washing or waxing, but comes off with my fingernail. Should I try claybar or go right into some serious polishing? Clay. Lots of lube.
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May 10, 2016 22:37
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FogHelmut posted:There's some kind of aeresolized sap (best phrase I could come up with) all over my car. It looks like I drove through a cloud of it. It wont come off with washing or waxing, but comes off with my fingernail. Should I try claybar or go right into some serious polishing? Definately clay the car. As far as I've learned from spergs on youtube, you should never polish without it being as clean as possible. I actually dared to try some polishing on our black V70. It had some ugly scuff marks on the lower back bumper so I figured I'd give it a go. I got most of it to go away, but it's hard to buy decent polishing stuff in normal shops, and I think Volvo has really hard paint. I'm going to do the whole car when I can be bothered to find proper polishing material. At least I got a DA machine now.
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May 10, 2016 22:39
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Went full ultimate compound/ultimate polish/gold class carnauba on the z3 last night. Started with a dawn wash and a full claying. The chemical guys hex pads were awesome. Ended up going yellow/green/black. Their pad wash also seems to be made of magical fairy blood or something because it cleaned the poo poo out of those pads. I was a little worried because I know that at least some of this car has been repainted but I didn't end up with any color on the pad. Ignore my still-filthy top. Detailing a car that doesn't get driven in winter is almost like cheating.  
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May 13, 2016 14:51
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I finally got my hex pads in after they got lost in the mail for a week. 
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May 13, 2016 17:57
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Nice car and garage taco.
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May 13, 2016 19:52
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Brake Dust Pro is something that I don't want to be around for very long. It smells like some pretty nasty poo poo, but it works. Hmmm, black cars:  I forgot why I hate washing black cars, oh wait https://fat.gfycat.com/LawfulTinyGreendarnerdragonfly.webm
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May 13, 2016 22:36
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Phone posted:Brake Dust Pro is something that I don't want to be around for very long. It smells like some pretty nasty poo poo, but it works. PDR. $100 and it's gone. I don't sweat those things anymore.
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May 13, 2016 22:36
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meatpimp posted:PDR. $100 and it's gone. I don't sweat those things anymore. Much as that's a capital offence, you honestly can't do much when you find this stuff except go "ah well" and weigh up whether to fix it or live with it on the basis it's likely to happen again.
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May 13, 2016 22:47
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meatpimp posted:PDR. $100 and it's gone. I don't sweat those things anymore. I also scraped the lip earlier in the week. My car with 9k miles on it isn't new any more.  btw, the picture is of the trunk and the little pock in the middle of the picture is a cloud, not a paint defect
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May 13, 2016 23:00
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Phone posted:I also scraped the lip earlier in the week. My car with 9k miles on it isn't new any more. You've put twice as many miles on your miata as I've put on mine since I bought it, and I think I've owned mine for twice as long and drove it back from Houston TX
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May 14, 2016 02:39
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What speeds for the buffer is everyone using for UC/UP/Wax (845 in my case)?
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May 14, 2016 03:36
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