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Laranzu posted:The adjuster shouldn't turn at all with usage of the parking brake. Its basically manually setting the engagement distance to the rotor. Once that is set, the parking brake cable or the regular brake hydraulics move the piston the rest of the way, but not through the adjuster mechanism. I'm not totally clear on how it works myself but I thought the point of the auto-adjuster was to decrease the engagement distance as the pads wore down? Also, I saw this photo on miata.net that shows the hex adjuster directly geared to the piston, which is what made me think that the hex adjuster moves as the auto-adjuster does it's thing:  Either way it's sounding like trying new calipers is the way to go; if it's just the auto-adjuster that's bad and not the caliper it's easier to just swap the whole thing out anyway. Thanks guys.
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May 4, 2016 03:46
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| # ? May 14, 2024 23:38 |
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 In case you're wondering -- yeah, this job sucks about as much as you think it does.
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May 4, 2016 04:15
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Hey, I've been having a thing on my 05 MSM where when I go to refuel it, the fuel pump disengages before it's full. And since I get a pretty consistent 25 mpg, I can tell when this happens, e.g. tonight I drove 250 miles (since last November!) and it disengaged at about 8 gallons. There's no way I'm getting >31 mpg in this thing, so I re-engaged it and got it to fill up to about 10 gallons, which was exactly right. And previously, if I just drive off after letting it disengage the first time, it's clearly not full, i.e. the gauge reports a partial fill and of course I have to refuel sooner the next time, so it's not in my imagination. Is this the ol' Mazda "Spiders in the gas tank" thing? 
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May 4, 2016 07:21
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Mine does that too. It's apparently a common problem for the non return valve to stick. There was a recall for the 98 and 99 years but it seems they never really fixed it.
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May 4, 2016 07:57
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I finally bit the bullet and took the Miata to the shop to get the brakes bled properly (it needed the annual inspection anyways). It's so good to be back in the Miata life!
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May 4, 2016 20:57
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Depowered steering rack: Love it. Hard as poo poo to turn when sitting still obviously but it's a nice step towards "go-kart". Also worth it to me to get rid of because I have the MP45 supercharger that runs off the same skinny rear end belt. Aftermarket forced induction: I love the extra midrange power the most. I wouldn't go back to N/A. It does have weird fuel issues and flat spots until it warms up though. I wish I could go with an aftermarket computer but CARB. Fuel tank not filling on NBs: Yes. I loving hate having to hold the nozzle straight up while filling it slowly. It still doesn't fill the same amount each time even doing that. e: If you ever consider doing a depowered rack; do it right. Remove the internal seal, plug all the ports, and weld the spool valve. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 04:02 on May 5, 2016 |
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May 5, 2016 03:59
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The recall issue with NBs was that they would click off after like two tenths of a gallon. Mine acted up shortly after I bought it.
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May 5, 2016 04:25
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Atomizer posted:Hey, I've been having a thing on my 05 MSM where when I go to refuel it, the fuel pump disengages before it's full. And since I get a pretty consistent 25 mpg, I can tell when this happens, e.g. tonight I drove 250 miles (since last November!) and it disengaged at about 8 gallons. There's no way I'm getting >31 mpg in this thing, so I re-engaged it and got it to fill up to about 10 gallons, which was exactly right. And previously, if I just drive off after letting it disengage the first time, it's clearly not full, i.e. the gauge reports a partial fill and of course I have to refuel sooner the next time, so it's not in my imagination.
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May 5, 2016 05:14
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Alright, I'm going to try filling it with the nozzle at a different angle next time. I would've figured they'd have fixed this issue with the NBs by the time they got to '05, but 
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May 5, 2016 06:21
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Manual rack was nice, but depowered rack has a faster ratio so it's preferred I guess. They'll both feel about the same if done right. Turbos on miatas are silly fun, but a pain in the rear end if you want to track it (cooling, turbo studs, 6 speed swap, etc). Makes the power to weight about perfect, IMO.
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May 5, 2016 18:07
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My NA8 sometimes shudders for a few seconds in neutral when I'm waiting at lights etc - feels like it's about to stall. it does it more when it's cold but still does it when it's warm. Any ideas?
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May 6, 2016 04:46
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Probably the IAC. (Idle Air Control valve)
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May 6, 2016 04:49
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Finally got the base timing dialed in real nice. Really makes the Megasquirt happier when your 10 degrees is 10 degrees and not somewhere above 15.
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May 8, 2016 01:58
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What's the best street tire for my OEM 14s on my NA? It seems like a lot of things that used to be recommended are now discontinued. I'm breaking traction a little too much on the Toyo Eclipses that are warranty replacements on the POs previous (also lovely) tires.
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May 8, 2016 05:44
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blk posted:What's the best street tire for my OEM 14s on my NA? It seems like a lot of things that used to be recommended are now discontinued. I'm breaking traction a little too much on the Toyo Eclipses that are warranty replacements on the POs previous (also lovely) tires. You could get Star Specs in 185/60R14.
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May 8, 2016 06:02
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blk posted:What's the best street tire for my OEM 14s on my NA? It seems like a lot of things that used to be recommended are now discontinued. I'm breaking traction a little too much on the Toyo Eclipses that are warranty replacements on the POs previous (also lovely) tires. I got Yokohama S-Drives which are fantastic on both dry and wet. They come in 185/55, only slightly smaller than stock.
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May 8, 2016 06:19
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Oh hey remember a few pages back when I was looking at a Miata? I ended up buying it. What should the new Miata owner do next? (Other than drive it around of course)
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May 8, 2016 07:48
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New shifter bushings were probably the biggest improvement for least effort. There is a full rebuild kit with new boots. Or at least there was...Arlington Mazda shut down its great online parts store
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May 8, 2016 08:30
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Oh that's lovely On the other hand, I needed a set of heater hoses a few months ago, went to order from them, and realized I now live 35 minutes from them.
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May 8, 2016 08:35
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They're going to be back in about a month or so.
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May 8, 2016 14:52
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Femtosecond posted:Oh hey remember a few pages back when I was looking at a Miata? I ended up buying it. Tug on the back of the headlight covers to make them flush with the hood.
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May 8, 2016 14:59
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blk posted:What's the best street tire for my OEM 14s on my NA? It seems like a lot of things that used to be recommended are now discontinued. I'm breaking traction a little too much on the Toyo Eclipses that are warranty replacements on the POs previous (also lovely) tires. I use Falken Azeni 615's at 195/65/14. Sure the're not amazing like star specs, but if discount tire is running a deal you can get the whole set for $300
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May 8, 2016 15:16
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Yeah I'm happy with Azenis for the price, I got them super cheap.Phone posted:They're going to be back in about a month or so. So what's the deal? They closing the dealer but keeping the online store?
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May 8, 2016 17:17
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In 14" your options are super slim. I personally don't like the Azenis, but they're 195/60R14 for $70 a tire or something. Hard to beat that. For Rosenthal, they closed the dealership, but the dude running the parts counter got the go ahead to move shop to a Nissan dealer either across the street or across town. They've already rebranded as Priority Mazda.
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May 8, 2016 18:45
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That's cool. Kinda weird selling Mazda parts out of a Nissan dealer though, I wonder how that deal came about.
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May 8, 2016 21:49
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Miata thread, please help! I went over some bumps today and my exhaust note dropped like I'd put a fart can on it. My guess is that something somewhere along the exhaust pipe shook loose, but has anyone got any better ideas? After I got to work I nudged the muffler with my foot and nothing seemed ready to fall off; it had a little play but it didn't seem obviously loose.
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May 10, 2016 17:18
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I would guess a weld or joint has rusted through and cracked open when hitting that bump. Can often be pretty easy to spot if you look under the car with the engine running, or are able to get your hand close enough to feel where it leaks (do this with a cold car to avoid second degree burns, the rear parts of the exhaust will be reasonably cool for quite a while).
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May 10, 2016 21:26
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Maybe just one of the gaskets on the cat or elsewhere crumbled out. Get down low and listen where it's coming from.
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May 11, 2016 01:48
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Miata thread, help me. I have an '04 MSM with 55k miles on it that I had a megasquirt 3 and 420cc injectors installed in by a local tuner/dyno guy. He's done quite a bit of megasquirt stuff but is not a miata specialist. Since I got the thing back I've been tracking down issues and tweaking the tune. Got through a few things fine, but I'm having a bear of a time with a lean spike at low, constant throttle around 1800-2300rpm. My tuner guy basically told me good luck with figuring it out and didn't have any ideas. There's nothing weird in the fuel map and adding a bunch of fuel makes it better, but then I wind up really rich around the spot. Timing seems fine too. Not an AE issue since it's happening with the TPSdot at zero. Someone on another forum suggested it was similar to an issue he'd had with fuel rail resonance in a 350z but I'm out of my depth there. I'm not sure what to try next. If there was a tuner who had more turbo miata / megasquirt experience near me (Nebraska) than the guy who installed it that'd be ideal. Otherwise I could: drive it as is and keep sorting out the rest of the tune, try to sell it as-is to someone who's smarter or thinks they're smarter than me with tuning, or return it to stock and sell it/the EMS separately. It seems dumb to just have it sitting doing nothing indefinitely. Here's a thread on miataturbo with my VE/Spark/AFR Target tables, some datalogs, and the tune file if anyone's feeling ambitious/helpful: http://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/lean-spike-low-rpm-partial-throttle-88078/ (the coolant temp calibration issue I mention has been sorted since)
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May 11, 2016 01:59
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How much time did he spend dyno tuning it? When I've shopped around I've seen real bad shops that do 3 dyno runs and call it good without even hooking up a wideband or anything. You don't really want to mess with street tuning, you'll never get it right or safe. It seems like a case for find a better shop or revert to stock if there isn't anyone around you who can do it right.
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May 11, 2016 02:07
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Don't know how long he spent on that specifically. The car was with him for about 3 weeks. He definitely had it on a wideband though as it was on the dyno charts he gave me later. I also think he maybe didn't do a bad job otherwise as the car does seem to run well other than this one thing and you might not notice the lean spot if you were driving more aggressively or whatever.
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May 11, 2016 02:30
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ionn posted:I would guess a weld or joint has rusted through and cracked open when hitting that bump. Can often be pretty easy to spot if you look under the car with the engine running, or are able to get your hand close enough to feel where it leaks (do this with a cold car to avoid second degree burns, the rear parts of the exhaust will be reasonably cool for quite a while). Thanks!
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May 11, 2016 03:25
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So Ive been thinking of doing a CSPesque miata build after driving a friends CSP 1.6 car a few times. Im thinking of trying to acquire a 01+ motor, a flat top intake, some header back exhaust, and a friend will sell me an MSPNP on the cheap. That and a budget bilstein build or some other suspension used on the cheap. Any thing I should look for in particular? The car currently has a roll bar and the biggest racing beat front sway, so I figure a racing beat rear sway to balance it.
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May 11, 2016 03:47
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The biggest rear bar you want on the car is the 14mm Mazdaspeed one. Everything else is too big. I'll sell you my FCMs if you want them.
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May 11, 2016 03:51
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Miata thread help me, I feel the urge to style hair after driving the car. Is this natural?
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May 11, 2016 04:51
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For an NC driver yes that is normal.
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May 11, 2016 05:01
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Flat top isn't CSP legal, has to be USDM parts for update/backdate. Don't forget your 15x11s and 275 A7s.
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May 11, 2016 13:20
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Isn't anything outside of the head fair game in CSP? Maybe I'm remembering my classes wrong. Anyway, I'm just going to play local with it. So it'll be 15x10 and probably maxis 245/xx/15 or the 225/45/15 tire du jour. I don't want to spend the money to make a nationals car.
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May 11, 2016 15:19
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The EUDM and JDM manifolds are by definition, never made available in the US... Domestic... Market... You can play car Lego all you want, but it needs to have been available stateside. No overnighting parts from Japan.
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May 11, 2016 15:50
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| # ? May 14, 2024 23:38 |
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Phone posted:The EUDM and JDM manifolds are by definition, never made available in the US... Domestic... Market... Correct me if I'm wrong but in the solo rule book 15.10.C says "Carburetors, fuel injection, and intake manifolds are unrestricted".
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May 11, 2016 18:14
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