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Thanks to everyone for the suggestions on the vintage pen restoration. I think I'm gonna put some money aside and send it to the nibs.com guy since he seems to have a reputation for quality work. I'd rather spend more and have a greater chance at receiving a usable heirloom than try to fix it myself and break it or just leave it tucked away in a box unusable and forgotten. Also, my fiance got me a Karas Kustoms Fountain K to replace my TWSBI 580AL as my daily carry. While I've loved the TWSBI, I'm excited to have something a little more durable. Plus the olive green anodizing looks gorgeous.
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May 5, 2016 21:56
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The Wolfen posted:Thanks to everyone for the suggestions on the vintage pen restoration. I think I'm gonna put some money aside and send it to the nibs.com guy since he seems to have a reputation for quality work. I'd rather spend more and have a greater chance at receiving a usable heirloom than try to fix it myself and break it or just leave it tucked away in a box unusable and forgotten. I have my great grandfathers Parker 51 that I plan to get restored sooner or later. Depending on the date it was made he may have carried it through the War. Let me know how you like the results of your restoration. Pen question - what's your most reliable way to get a pen "started?" I normally run mine under a little running water but I'd like to know what you folks do. I'm fixing a Noodler's pen that I gave my dad for a gift that has a reservoir that has to be filled with a syringe and it's really picky to get started and I can't squeeze a cartridge or converter a little to get it going.
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May 6, 2016 04:18
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Captain Log posted:Pen question - what's your most reliable way to get a pen "started?" I normally run mine under a little running water but I'd like to know what you folks do. I'm fixing a Noodler's pen that I gave my dad for a gift that has a reservoir that has to be filled with a syringe and it's really picky to get started and I can't squeeze a cartridge or converter a little to get it going. I have a ink bottle filled with water to help start dry FPs. Also have you considered a Pilot Metro for a starter FP?
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May 6, 2016 04:58
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Captain Log posted:Pen question - what's your most reliable way to get a pen "started?" I normally run mine under a little running water but I'd like to know what you folks do. I'm fixing a Noodler's pen that I gave my dad for a gift that has a reservoir that has to be filled with a syringe and it's really picky to get started and I can't squeeze a cartridge or converter a little to get it going. What do you mean by "started"? When you ink up the pen from empty or when it's been sitting a few days unused?
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May 6, 2016 07:13
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Captain Log posted:Pen question - what's your most reliable way to get a pen "started?" I normally run mine under a little running water but I'd like to know what you folks do. I'm fixing a Noodler's pen that I gave my dad for a gift that has a reservoir that has to be filled with a syringe and it's really picky to get started and I can't squeeze a cartridge or converter a little to get it going. Seems like you're talking about one of the Noodler's eyedropper pens. I don't like to introduce water unless the pen has sat unused for a while and has dried out a bit, but soaking up the resulting watery ink with a paper towel or kleenex draws more ink from the feed and brings things back to normal quickly. I've contemplated packing a couple baby wipes into a small watertight container in case I have to re-wet a pen on the road. With my eyedroppers I usually shake them gently or tap them softly on a blotter paper to coax the ink into the feed. Technically physics should do the work for you and if you let it sit a minute level or with the nib pointed down it should start itself with capillary action. Once eyedroppers start flowing they don't need to be restarted unless they are laid up for a while (my Guider Marala ebonite pen has enough threads on the cap that it rarely dries out, even if laid up for a month or more-- but its a pain to uncap in a hurry). Eyedroppers usually have the opposite problem in my experience- they run too wet as the ink runs low. The 1885 Waterman's catalog has some good advice that holds true for eyedropper pens to this day, since the basic design really hasn't changed since then: https://archive.org/stream/WatermanFountainPenCatalogs/Waterman%20Pen%20Catalog%201885
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May 6, 2016 12:15
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khamul posted:Seems like you're talking about one of the Noodler's eyedropper pens. I don't like to introduce water unless the pen has sat unused for a while and has dried out a bit, but soaking up the resulting watery ink with a paper towel or kleenex draws more ink from the feed and brings things back to normal quickly. I've contemplated packing a couple baby wipes into a small watertight container in case I have to re-wet a pen on the road. With my eyedroppers I usually shake them gently or tap them softly on a blotter paper to coax the ink into the feed. Technically physics should do the work for you and if you let it sit a minute level or with the nib pointed down it should start itself with capillary action. Awesome advice. My father's problem was the pen kept doing globs of ink when it shouldn't. It's one of those pens that came with an eyedropper inkwell. I think I got it working. When I mean "starting" a pen I'm just talking about what you do to get a pen going that hasn't been used in a while. Usually running the nib under a little water starts it for me. Didn't know if there was a better way.
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May 7, 2016 04:52
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Captain Log posted:Awesome advice. My father's problem was the pen kept doing globs of ink when it shouldn't. It's one of those pens that came with an eyedropper inkwell. I think I got it working. For the first issue, blobbing ink with eyedroppers is pretty common, especially when the reservoir is getting empty. Your hand will heat up the air in the barrel and cause it to expand, forcing ink out. As for the second, a single drop of water to the tip of the nib should be sufficient.
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May 7, 2016 07:22
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The Wolfen posted:Thanks to everyone for the suggestions on the vintage pen restoration. I think I'm gonna put some money aside and send it to the nibs.com guy since he seems to have a reputation for quality work. I'd rather spend more and have a greater chance at receiving a usable heirloom than try to fix it myself and break it or just leave it tucked away in a box unusable and forgotten. don't those things weigh like half a pound?
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May 8, 2016 03:09
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The_Angry_Turtle posted:don't those things weigh like half a pound? Jinhao makes a porcelain pen that is absurdly heavy, but so pretty and so cheap that it's almost worth just having around to sign things. Nice conversation piece, too. http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Jinhao+porcelain+pen&_pgn=1
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May 8, 2016 12:55
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I ordered some stuff from Goulet and my package arrived quickly w/ a tootsie pop inside. I'm going to take this as a sign that this hobby was meant to be.
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May 10, 2016 01:41
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How quickly does the Pilot Vanishing point take to normally dry out? I don't know if it's my ink (using Private Reserve at the moment) or something else, but I feel like my pen is acting flakey with how often it refuses to write.
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May 10, 2016 02:25
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It shouldn't be drying out if it's retracted unless you're leaving your pen unused for a matter of weeks.
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May 10, 2016 02:38
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Shirec posted:How quickly does the Pilot Vanishing point take to normally dry out? I don't know if it's my ink (using Private Reserve at the moment) or something else, but I feel like my pen is acting flakey with how often it refuses to write. Found your problem. I use Diamine Autumn Oak in my VP (btw I got a VP) and it never has a starting problem. In my experience, Private Reserve is a very dry writing ink, as well as super prone to molding. I would recommend staying away from it if possible, as a general rule.
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May 10, 2016 15:51
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cobalt impurity posted:Found your problem. I use Diamine Autumn Oak in my VP (btw I got a VP) and it never has a starting problem. In my experience, Private Reserve is a very dry writing ink, as well as super prone to molding. I would recommend staying away from it if possible, as a general rule. Well dang, I have two bottles of it. I have my Noodler stuff at home, I'll have to bring it in. I just washed everything out and re-loaded my vanishing point, so I'll give it another clean before I switch inks. Thanks y'all, I was getting really frustrated.
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May 10, 2016 16:24
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Shirec posted:How quickly does the Pilot Vanishing point take to normally dry out? I don't know if it's my ink (using Private Reserve at the moment) or something else, but I feel like my pen is acting flakey with how often it refuses to write. It's the PR, it's really dye heavy which makes it prone to dry up and clog. I also had mold problems with two consecutive bottles of PR ebony green. The posts about that are in my post history in this thread if you want to see some icky pictures. pienipple fucked around with this message at 17:16 on May 10, 2016 |
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May 10, 2016 17:14
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cobalt impurity posted:Found your problem. I use Diamine Autumn Oak in my VP (btw I got a VP) and it never has a starting problem. In my experience, Private Reserve is a very dry writing ink, as well as super prone to molding. I would recommend staying away from it if possible, as a general rule. My sample size of one bottle confirms that PR inks are quite prone to mould. To be perfectly honest I wasn't particularly blown away by any of the qualities of the ink and have moved on to better and brighter substances. (It was my first ink, I didn't know better to stop there and end this horrible addiction before it could take root in my psyche, but alas, the damage was done)
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May 10, 2016 18:41
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pienipple posted:It's the PR, it's really dye heavy which makes it prone to dry up and clog. Nofeed posted:My sample size of one bottle confirms that PR inks are quite prone to mould. To be perfectly honest I wasn't particularly blown away by any of the qualities of the ink and have moved on to better and brighter substances. (It was my first ink, I didn't know better to stop there and end this horrible addiction before it could take root in my psyche, but alas, the damage was done) Holy crap, I did! Does it ruin the pen to happen inside it?! My local pen shop only stocks the really expensive stuff and Private Reserve, so I guess I'm back to ordering that stuff online. I'm glad I wasn't crazy though, cause I don't treat my pens poorly and it was odd to me.
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May 10, 2016 18:49
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get your own private reserve (of mold)
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May 10, 2016 19:11
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Shirec posted:Holy crap, I did! Does it ruin the pen to happen inside it?! My local pen shop only stocks the really expensive stuff and Private Reserve, so I guess I'm back to ordering that stuff online. I'm glad I wasn't crazy though, cause I don't treat my pens poorly and it was odd to me. It depends on the pen, it molded in my Lamy Vista but I could take that down to component parts and bleach it. I also tossed the converter and replaced it. Pens that have sealed sections or bleach sensitive materials may not fare as well. I don't know how far you can break down the nib unit of a vanishing point, and while replacing the converter isn't too bad replacing the nib unit would be a kick in the wallet. I really liked the color of ebony green and the way it shaded with an italic nib, too.
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May 10, 2016 20:24
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I've been carrying/using a TWSBI mini since 2012, but I've had sporadic ink leakage issues that continue to plague me and seem to be getting worse. Over the years I've had different parts replaced, but I think either due to the ink I'm using, the temperature differential between the barrel and feed in my pocket, or simply a poor seal, I'm just tired of sometimes pulling out my pen and getting ink all over my fingers. To that end, I'm looking into a new pocket pen and would love goon input on what's out there. I have a couple Pilot Petit floating around a home, but I want something that looks a little classier and puts down a finer line. I've come across the Kaweco Lilliput which looks really nice, but I am a little worried about losing it w/o any clip. The Kaweco Sport looks similar in design to the TWSBI, but since the clip is a separate accessory, it seems like that might not be the best situation either. The Ohto Tasche looks very affordable and nice, but I'd prefer an EF line. The Ohto Rook also looks very cool, but the line is even thicker than the Tasche. I think right now I'm leaning towards the Tasche, or the Lilliput if I could justify the cost. Are there any other options/recommendations you guys would have?
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May 11, 2016 02:53
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The Hebug posted:I've been carrying/using a TWSBI mini since 2012, but I've had sporadic ink leakage issues that continue to plague me and seem to be getting worse. Over the years I've had different parts replaced, but I think either due to the ink I'm using, the temperature differential between the barrel and feed in my pocket, or simply a poor seal, I'm just tired of sometimes pulling out my pen and getting ink all over my fingers. To that end, I'm looking into a new pocket pen and would love goon input on what's out there. You can put a Fisher Space Pen clip on the Kaweco Liliput, it fits perfectly and is pretty cheap. If you don't mind spending a little more you can get a Pilot Elite E95s in Extra Fine or Fine off of Amazon for ~$80-90. Pocket pen, very cool inlaid 14k nib. I'm also a big fan of Ohto, the nibs are western fines on the pocket pens (ignore how they're sized in adverts, it's almost always wrong). You can also replace the nibs pretty easily, they're standard #5s and friction fit.
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May 11, 2016 04:28
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I really like the Pilot Elite. I have both the E95s and a vintage "big cap" one and I keep prowling ebay for vintage ones since there are several varieties. Since the E95s was kind of expensive and the big cap was like $20 that's the one I carry around in my pocket and I've never had a leak.
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May 11, 2016 05:13
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Uh oh, mold? Are all pen inks able to get moldy? Are there certain things that need to be done to prevent ink mold? I would google but I also do not want to see the ink mold because that would be upsetting :/ maybe this hobby was not meant to be.
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May 11, 2016 05:47
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All inks have biocides in them to prevent mold, outside of a few brands (notably Private Reserve) it's pretty rare.
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May 11, 2016 05:57
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I have a Kaweco Sport and I really like it, it stays capped tight, the clip has never slid off, and it's the perfect pocket size. They even make a tiny converter so you can use bottled ink.
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May 11, 2016 06:21
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grack posted:You can put a Fisher Space Pen clip on the Kaweco Liliput, it fits perfectly and is pretty cheap. If you don't mind spending a little more you can get a Pilot Elite E95s in Extra Fine or Fine off of Amazon for ~$80-90. Pocket pen, very cool inlaid 14k nib. I'm also a big fan of Ohto, the nibs are western fines on the pocket pens (ignore how they're sized in adverts, it's almost always wrong). You can also replace the nibs pretty easily, they're standard #5s and friction fit. Hm maybe I should find an occasion to get the E95, that's a really sexy pen. I do have a spare TWSBI EF nib I could throw in the Ohto in the meantime, I think I read somewhere those are #5 nibs.
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May 11, 2016 06:22
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The Hebug posted:Hm maybe I should find an occasion to get the E95, that's a really sexy pen. I do have a spare TWSBI EF nib I could throw in the Ohto in the meantime, I think I read somewhere those are #5 nibs. All the Twsbis except the Vac 700 are #5 nibs.
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May 11, 2016 06:24
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I got a Peerless fountain pen from isellpens after emailing Todd about practical flex-nib writers. Well, it looks like my mother got it for my birthday and had it mailed straight to me. I had to double-take because I couldn't remember if I actually made the order or not. Anyways, the nib and the lever action are kind of dirty. Are there any tips for cleaning something like this? I can't be sure, but it's likely Bakelite plastic. The nib is 14k gold. There's a lot of blue-black staining around the nib. I wonder what the sac is like. Is there any good methods for giving that a good rinse? The pen has a nice olive drab, which compliments the gold very well. I think it'll be great with Noodler's Burma Road Brown.
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May 11, 2016 06:25
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GenericGirlName posted:Uh oh, mold? Are all pen inks able to get moldy? Are there certain things that need to be done to prevent ink mold? I would google but I also do not want to see the ink mold because that would be upsetting :/ maybe this hobby was not meant to be. I have a bottle of ink that was purchased in the 1960s I inherited from my grandfather. Common-as-mud Sheaffer Skrip, still usable today. Pienipple had two bottles of Private Reserve that were so molded after only a month they had actually gone carbonated and opening them was like opening a soda bottle. It's definitely a rare occurrence and hopefully won't turn you off this otherwise fun but really loving nerdy and spendy hobby!
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May 11, 2016 14:12
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cobalt impurity posted:I have a bottle of ink that was purchased in the 1960s I inherited from my grandfather. Common-as-mud Sheaffer Skrip, still usable today. Pienipple had two bottles of Private Reserve that were so molded after only a month they had actually gone carbonated and opening them was like opening a soda bottle. It's definitely a rare occurrence and hopefully won't turn you off this otherwise fun but really loving nerdy and spendy hobby! There was also something specific to Private Reserve inks bottled in a certain time frame. I remember reading about it on one of the pen dork blogs, and that PR said they addressed it. The truth of any of that is up for debate, but that's what's stuck in my head about it.
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May 11, 2016 14:26
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I don't know about PR actually managing to address the issue to anyone's satisfaction but their own. Round these parts people still regularly report finding mould in their bottles.
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May 11, 2016 14:29
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Thanks for all the replies. I guess I will continue to trust in the power of modern science and stick with the hobby. Speaking of, I currently have 2 pilot metros (got them off Massdrop) and am looking to get something with a broader nib that might still be comparable with all these cartridges I got for my pilot metro. Any suggestions? (I also got some ink samples so I can also just get a convertor for the new pen and be fine as well) Also.... Tell me about paper. Edit: I be clear, I think the metros have fine nibs. They're certainly not broad, but I want ones very broad so I can disappoint myself when I cannot produce ornate swoops with the pen 
GenericGirlName fucked around with this message at 17:35 on May 11, 2016 |
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May 11, 2016 17:33
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If you want a super broad line in your metro, they happen to be nib-buddies with the Pilot Plumix. You can pull the nib and feed out of one and swap it with the other, and it's only $9 for a small stub nib. Other than that you're looking at much more expensive pens like the Custom 74, that you can't swap the nibs on. Pilot uses proprietary cartridges and converters so you're basically stuck with that brand if you're dead-set on using them up. Another pen that would be good, but incompatible with your cartridges/converters, is the Lamy Safari/Vista. They're not very expensive, fit a nicely sized cartridge/converter, and the nib units are made to be swapped out and come in sizes from XF to 1.5mm stub! Linked in the OP, by the way. As for paper, Clairefontaine is great, Rhodia uses Clairefontaine paper, Tomoe River is much loved but expensive and really thin, don't bother with Moleskein they're all hype and use really inconsistent quality paper. A more reasonable option would be something like 24-30lb laser printer paper, anything made from sugar cane, and I've had good luck with "stone paper" although since it has no plant matter most permanent FP inks won't be on it. My pens have no problem writing on it though.
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May 11, 2016 18:43
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I think the Pilot 78G BB nib is even wider than the Plumix nib but I'm not 100% sure about that. You don't even have to do the nib swap unless you just really want to -- the 78G is a pretty decent pen, just plastic vs the metal Metro.
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May 11, 2016 19:25
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I've never had a problem with Apica notebooks. Their paper quality is excellent and cheap.
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May 11, 2016 22:41
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Everything Burrito posted:I think the Pilot 78G BB nib is even wider than the Plumix nib but I'm not 100% sure about that. You don't even have to do the nib swap unless you just really want to -- the 78G is a pretty decent pen, just plastic vs the metal Metro. Pilot stopped making the 78G and sold it to Hero/Wing Sung. The B and BB nibs were small stubs similar to the Plumix nib, 1.0 and 1.2 respectively IIRC. Pilot doesn't offer much in the way of really broad nibs. Lamy makes 1.1, 1.5, and 1.9 mm italics for it's pens, and they're easy to swap. I have a TWSBI Eco with the 1.1 nib and like it a lot, I find it significantly bolder than the Lamy 1.1. One of my other daily writers is a Vista with the 1.5 nib.
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May 12, 2016 01:07
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These are all very good suggestions, I'll bookmark most of these things and see how I feel about getting them next week. I'm really leaning towards on of the lamy's and also a box of sugar cane printer paper :V
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May 12, 2016 01:23
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Useless and ridiculous and yet I still want it: http://www.baum-kuchen.net/products/travelers-notebook-10th-anniversary
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May 12, 2016 02:17
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GenericGirlName posted:These are all very good suggestions, I'll bookmark most of these things and see how I feel about getting them next week. I'm really leaning towards on of the lamy's and also a box of sugar cane printer paper :V Check goulet's close outs, there were some al-star+ filofax gift sets marked down to less than the pen alone recently. I ended up getting the copper orange one.
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May 12, 2016 02:27
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pienipple posted:Pilot stopped making the 78G and sold it to Hero/Wing Sung. The B and BB nibs were small stubs similar to the Plumix nib, 1.0 and 1.2 respectively IIRC. Pilot doesn't offer much in the way of really broad nibs. yeah you have to hit ebay for them but they're pretty easy to find. I think peytonstreetpens has the BB one in stock too. I personally like the smaller stubs for daily writing -- I have a 1.5 Goulet nib and it's just too wide for much other than playing with. But yeah if you want a really wide nib probably don't stick with Japanese pens. Although one benefit to staying with Pilot is the interchangeability and not needing to have multiple kinds of cartridges and converters.
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May 12, 2016 02:37
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