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Commodore_64 posted:Not my ride per se, but I made a little house for my newest torque wrench. It's on a french cleat with some other tools that live in my room at the moment. The wrench is super cool, a Japanese Tohnichi 0-3N-m dial unit. I intend to use it for setting pinion bearing preload in various differentials. They should have sent a poet.
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May 2, 2016 06:04
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Geoj posted:Today I was sanding panels on my Focus in preparation for respraying it and found more bubbling paint on the hatch, which I wasn't expecting to have to paint this time around (for anyone keeping track this is the third time I've done at least a partial paint job.) Which led to finding even more rust hiding under the rear license plate mount. All owing to lovely engineering, all of the rust was caused by either the trim piece that houses the license plate lights or the plate bracket touching the body. Every time I've tried to remove the hatch trim piece that has the Ford logo on it on those cars the studs have shattered from rust. Like maybe ten or fifteen junkyard cars. Heat, penetrant, prayer.. Nothing works. I'm pretty sure you can't actually get it out so don't bother.
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May 2, 2016 06:05
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^ It's out. I should add that when I painted the car the first time (late 2008) I replaced the original textured plastic with a new OEM primed/body match trim piece. There was a bit of corrosion on the outside studs/nuts but they came right out. Also adding to to-do list: anti-seize the fasteners when reinstalling the trim piece.
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May 2, 2016 07:26
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kastein posted:Friday morning: I blew the engine by being an idiot and not checking my oil level. That's some FuzzKill-level speed work there. Nicely done.
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May 2, 2016 12:59
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EVERYWHERE 
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Tore the engine splash guard off my 2010 RAV4 by getting stuck in some pretty righteous mud. hoping I didn't flood anything too important .
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May 2, 2016 13:15
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meatpimp posted:That's some FuzzKill-level speed work there. Nicely done. If I hadn't had another AI goon's birthday party (aka shop shenanigans and beerathon) to go to, and been a giant whiny slacker bastard Saturday, it would have been together and driving again Friday night or Saturday morning  I only spent 3 or 4 hours working on it each day.
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May 2, 2016 13:54
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88h88 posted:Oil change, oil filter and fitted a Fumoto quick release valve because I could. Winner. We've got them on the honda pump motors on our smaller fire vehicles. All bar one leaks. Dunno if the vibrations on the GX160 motors have anything to do with it but they're all less than 5yrs old and all have pools of oil under them,
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May 2, 2016 14:26
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Ferremit posted:We've got them on the honda pump motors on our smaller fire vehicles. Well if it last anywhere near 5 years I won't complain considering it was $20. Got some new rotors and pads for the front and popped those on yesterday. Then noticed my clutch master cylinder is leaking. Job for next week then when I can source a replacement.
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May 2, 2016 14:45
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Saturday put a new alternator belt and radiator on the GFs Miata. Sunday took the roll bar off my Miata and put it on hers, and helped a buddy finish his turbo Miata build and start tuning it. Took Monday off. Today dropped off some Kumho V720s and my spare set of wheels off the M3 to get mounted and balanced. Tonight it's either start on replacing the WRXs shocks and ball joints, or replacing all its exhaust gaskets. Still to do: Clay and wax M3 Clean WRX interior from last rallycross Finish GF's Miata interior Fix coolant leak on GF's Miata Order and instal new roll bar for my Miata Solve stuck rear caliper on the M3 I'm tired of cars. Time for a new hobby.
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May 3, 2016 21:18
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Throttle body, radiator, air filter box, Provent 200 and various other small bits fitted. I always think "Hey, these Audis ain't too bad, I don't understand why everyone thinks they're a pain to fix," then I mount the radiator... Hoping to get her started probably next week. Still to come: Intercooler, auxilliary radiator, pressure piping and high blood pressure!  Does anyone have any tips for cleaning out an intercooler? I've tried regular degreaser and a whole lot of water. I think I got most of the oil out of it, but now I'm worried about the degreasing liquid left inside. I'm thinking about filling it up with petrol and letting it sit overnight.
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May 5, 2016 08:39
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afen posted:Does anyone have any tips for cleaning out an intercooler? I've tried regular degreaser and a whole lot of water. I think I got most of the oil out of it, but now I'm worried about the degreasing liquid left inside. I'm thinking about filling it up with petrol and letting it sit overnight. I can't imagine a small bit of liquid in the IC will do any damage (the antique factory option water injection system on my Saab squirts water+meths into the intake pre-turbo via a windscreen squirter nozzle and that is fine...). I would just let it sit somewhere warm and dry for a while for it to dry out before fitting.
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May 5, 2016 10:23
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A touch of oil in the IC won't hurt anything. If you're really making GBS threads the bed about it, just install a catch can/separator. http://www.rxspeedworks.com/ E: that reminds me, I have to go empty mine... brb [img]http://i.imgur.com/DumdibNh.jpg[.img] 
GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 13:42 on May 5, 2016 |
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May 5, 2016 13:30
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My girlfriend decided to recreate that image of the brake rotor that was worn down past the face of the rotor and into the cooling vanes. so I spent a while making sure the brakes were OK on her car despite the mechanic having 'checked' them a month ago and saying they had plenty of life left.
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May 5, 2016 14:12
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afen posted:Does anyone have any tips for cleaning out an intercooler? I've tried regular degreaser and a whole lot of water. I think I got most of the oil out of it, but now I'm worried about the degreasing liquid left inside. I'm thinking about filling it up with petrol and letting it sit overnight. Gasoline. It'll clear out the oil and then evaporate. Put it in there, cap the ends and slosh it around. Keep doing it until it comes out clean.
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May 5, 2016 17:58
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Changed an engine mount on the Mini. First time I've ever wanted to set the car on fire, because that job was a massive PITA.  Then figured out that my clutch slave cylinder took a poo poo, so I am waiting on parts fora new clutch line and slave cylinder. So I tightened up the front alignment, changed the fuel filter, and pulled the front hub that I'd recently rebuilt to re-torque the ball joints that seemed to have a touch of play in them. Also put a new driver's side seat belt in the Alfa. Fun fact: 3-point belts defy installation in a 70's ragtop, but 2-point retractable belts worth a poo poo are pretty hard to find.
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May 5, 2016 19:16
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Save yourself lots of trouble and sell the Mini.
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May 5, 2016 22:44
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Just finished carpeting and putting a floor down in my van, with mounting points for 3 bike racks in the floor. Pain in the arse, to be honest. 
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May 5, 2016 23:12
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Blacknose posted:Just finished carpeting and putting a floor down in my van, with mounting points for 3 bike racks in the floor. Pain in the arse, to be honest. 10/10 would get kidnapped again
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May 6, 2016 17:58
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Put on my flaps. Fronts were easy enough thanks to a buddy's lift, still had to take the rear wheels off to get at the screw. Took about an hour I think, maybe 1:15. My first ever car mod, pretty proud even if it's minor.
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May 7, 2016 13:22
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The Maverick sprung a pinhole leak in the radiator. Of course that means I had no choice but to order a new aluminum radiator. And shroud. And electric fan. And of course that means I need to upgrade the alternator as well. This weekend has been a neverending string of "gently caress it, while I'm under there I might as well". Oh, and gently caress Champion radiators. They didn't even drill the shroud, and when I started doing the needful I realized why - the holes barely line up. loving thing ain't even square. I made it work though. Edit: and I can see my future. I'm going to be the guy that brings two alternators to a shop and asks them to swap pulleys because I don't have an air impact wrench and really don't need to buy one right now. Edit 2: gently caress, i'm gonna buy a compressor and impact wrench from HF tomorrow. Don't sign up for their coupons, kids, this is what it does to you. H2SO4 fucked around with this message at 06:01 on May 8, 2016 |
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May 8, 2016 04:55
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The new brake pads and rotors have arrived:  Now currently painting the new calipers and their respective brackets in my custom paint booth:   The new main fuel lines arrived also. Due to the size of the box they came in, I'm so glad I had them shipped to the shop instead of my house. Terrible potato picture but this box could easily fit several bodies in it with room to spare: 
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May 8, 2016 06:29
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Root Bear posted:
That sounds pricey. Why did you go the OEM fuel line route?
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May 8, 2016 20:01
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frozenpussy posted:That sounds pricey. Why did you go the OEM fuel line route? They averaged out to be around $45 each for both pressure and return (About 20% less than OEM list) and took just two business days to be shipped straight to me. I was more shocked to find they existed at all, no way I was gonna pass that up. Root Bear fucked around with this message at 20:15 on May 8, 2016 |
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May 8, 2016 20:12
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Root Bear posted:They averaged out to be around $45 each for both pressure and return (About 20% less than OEM list) and took just two business days to be shipped straight to me. I was more shocked to find they existed at all, no way I was gonna pass that up. oh wow nevermind, that's dirt cheap.
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May 8, 2016 20:19
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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May 8, 2016 20:52
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Changed the oil in my wife's '14 Mazda 3. Easiest oil change I've ever done.
Wrar fucked around with this message at 01:25 on May 9, 2016 |
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May 9, 2016 01:20
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Hopefully fixed my intermittent non-starting by tightening up the solenoid and main power cables on my starter which were both loose. I had the starter off when I replaced the gearbox just over a year ago and 25k back. I Don't know why they have taken till the last few weeks to work loose?
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May 9, 2016 01:27
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H2SO4 posted:
This was literally the best decision ever.
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May 9, 2016 03:09
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Was going to replace the rear stabilizer bushings on my E39: "Hm, these stabilizer links are rusted on, i'll have to cut them" "Hm, my rear break pads could use a refresh" "Hm looks like the brake disc is shot on the inside as well, previous owner just put new pads on a shot disc" "Hm the right side caliper carrier bolt sure is stuck on there. *bolt shears off* Hm." "Hm, the handbrake brake shoes just turned to dust in my hands, should probably replace those too" "Hm, the stabilizer bar has a crack in it, probably not great." Cut old parts, order new parts, break old parts, order new parts. Parts parts parts. This car will be brand new soon!
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May 9, 2016 08:33
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Installed a new clutch master on a 1990 Mini. Ridiculously difficult. It's right on top but EVERYTHING ELSE is in the way of any access for spanners or sockets. Also the design of the loving master is such that the reservoir is placed directly over the loving mounting point making it even worse. Hateful little shitboxes. So that took HOURS longer than it should have. I went for a drive in anger afterwards and then noticed a noise coming from my brakes so I pulled onto the drive and within minutes had that sorted. That's the way it should be with all problems but no, the Mini is awful for wrenching on because everything is on top of everything else in a compartment the size of a kitchen sink. Needs a radiator replacement next and I've already had to go out and buy a stupidly long (like half a metre stupid) screwdriver in order to undo ONE screw which is right at the bottom of the radiator but only accessible from the top.
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May 9, 2016 09:04
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88h88 posted:Installed a new clutch master on a 1990 Mini. Ridiculously difficult. It's right on top but EVERYTHING ELSE is in the way of any access for spanners or sockets. Also the design of the loving master is such that the reservoir is placed directly over the loving mounting point making it even worse. Hateful little shitboxes. You can leave the lower hose connected, just remove it with the radiator and shroud. Depending on which shroud you have, you can then reinstall the rad with the hose connected and the lower bracket dangling/loosely connected. Once you slither it down the side, install the bolts for the bottom bracket, bolt in the shroud on the sides, and finish off the top. Then connect the lower hose at the top. Protip: tape some cardboard over the fins on both sides of the rad to protect them from getting dinged by the fan on the way into place. Then remove the cardboard once it's in place. If you have that bypass hose, you're hosed though. Also, radiator swap is not as bad as (a) speedo cable or (b) motor mount. EightBit posted:Save yourself lots of trouble and sell the Mini. Blasphemy. 
Tamir Lenk fucked around with this message at 18:21 on May 9, 2016 |
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May 9, 2016 18:19
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  Looking for an exhaust leak at the headers. Took the midpipe out and reconnected all the pieces. Turns out on the passenger side I had two metal gaskets on top of each other. Good job, past me.  Put her back together and let it cure overnight, everything seems to be good now. Usually the CEL would pop on every two days or so so we'll see soon enough.
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May 9, 2016 18:41
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Replaced the fuel filter on my '01 330i, and the loving thing still throws lean codes.
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May 11, 2016 02:52
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H2SO4 posted:This was literally the best decision ever. Compressors rule, but like any powered HF tool you should try doing a search for the model you bought and see if there are dumb easy mods you can do that will extend the life 3x, i.e. run it for an hour and flush/replace the HF vegetable oil and cast flashings with real compressor oil/clean out HF gear lube vasoline and replace with real lube, or just lubricate the O-rings if it's oilless etc. I did the 1hr break-in + oil flush on my oiled 33gallon Husky and got black oil and shiny metal flakes left over from casting, so I'm sure HF stuff benefits too.
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May 11, 2016 03:04
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I drove it.  First time in over three years 
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May 11, 2016 04:06
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Got the car started and tok her for a quick spin. A/F values too lean, so I'm going to take it to a dyno. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKnJc4-lumU
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May 11, 2016 21:39
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Private video.
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May 11, 2016 21:44
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kastein posted:Private video. Sorry, it should work now.
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May 11, 2016 22:42
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On mom's car: shop did the timing belt service (timing belt, water pump, cam seals, crank seal, drive belts). Old drive belts were definitely original to the car (she paid for new ones during the last timing belt service). Timing belt didn't look bad, but it was definitely oil-soaked. They were supposed to do the valve cover gaskets; I didn't see VC gaskets on the invoice, but there's oily fingerprints on the valve covers, so hopefully they either got done or they snugged down the covers enough to fix the S.S. Leaksalot. All OEM Toyota parts, with labor, including the upper motor mount (dogbone) came out to a touch over $650. Shop owner is someone I've known for 19 years, he usually throws a discount her way. 
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May 12, 2016 02:54
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Got the AC recharged in my Acty and it blows ice cold. The real problem is the volume of air that you are asking the tiny thing to cool is way more than it realistically can handle unless you give it at least 10 minutes at speed. I've got great window tinting all around so the windows aren't an issue, but the windshield just lets a ton of heat in if I'm driving into the sun at all. Time to go shopping for some sort of U/V solar blocking film to apply to the windshield, Florida sun is brutal. Also there is a very noticeable dive in power when the system kicks on but I'm still leading off the line at stoplights so I guess it isn't that big of a hit.
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May 12, 2016 03:11
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