The March Hare posted:
Here are a couple specs to look at: mATX build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($237.99 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50) Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.00 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Define Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($62.99 @ NCIX US) Video Card: GTX 1070 ($379.99) Total: $1096.43 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-13 12:31 EDT-0400 The case is 15.51"H x 8.27"W x 19.25"D so it's still pretty big but it is quiet and well dust filtered and you don't really lose anything compared to a full size ATX build. Oh, and the cooler is not listed on PCPartPicker as being available from Newegg for some reason so here is a [uel=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF2DZ6565]link to it on Newegg[/url]. mITX build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($237.99 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50) Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Micro Center) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.00 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: GTX 1070 ($379.99) Total: $1146.44 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-13 12:39 EDT-0400 This one is much smaller and very quiet with great dust filtering, it lacks 5.25" optical bays and I went with 16GB of RAM since you can't expand like you can on the mATX build, it's also more expensive overall because of the extra RAM and more expensive motherboard. Still, it will be much, much smaller and can still fit like 2x SSDs and a couple HDDs. The mobo also has an m.2 slot on the back so you could go with an m.2 based SSD if you want so technically you could use 2x SSDs, 1x m.2 SSD and 2x HDDs. If you don't mind spending ~$50 more I think this one is the better route.
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May 13, 2016 17:47
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Here are a couple specs to look at: You're a golden god, the bottom one looks great.
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May 13, 2016 17:57
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:What country are you in? - US I don't know how well it will run Overwatch but this is the lowest price thing I can recommend: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card. It's a decent bump over your old card and everything lower priced would be much, much slower.
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May 13, 2016 18:02
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Massasoit posted:So I'm thinking of building a new computer and I wanted a reality check on if it's really worth it. Is there a reason you're running at stock speed with a K chip? I would expect overclocking to make a noticeable difference. Even overclocked, that chip isn't bad today but if you upgrade to a 1080 it won't be able to reach its full potential compared to if you had it with a Skylake K-series chip. It will definitely still be an improvement over the 970 but I would probably spend $300-400 to upgrade the platform before spending $600+ on a graphics card.
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May 13, 2016 19:30
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I'd definitely overclock that CPU and see if it's actually a bottleneck at all before spending money on a platform upgrade.
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May 13, 2016 19:59
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HMS Boromir posted:I'd definitely overclock that CPU and see if it's actually a bottleneck at all before spending money on a platform upgrade. Absolutely. An actual upgrade to that platform will cost the same or more than a 1070 that would be a big jump in GPU.
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May 13, 2016 20:01
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:I don't know how well it will run Overwatch but this is the lowest price thing I can recommend: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card. It's a decent bump over your old card and everything lower priced would be much, much slower. Thanks a lot! That's a PCIe 3.0 card. My mobo is PCIe 2.0, but that shouldn't be a problem? The die size is smaller on the new one, so I shouldn't have to worry about fit?
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May 13, 2016 20:23
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:Thanks a lot! That's a PCIe 3.0 card. My mobo is PCIe 2.0, but that shouldn't be a problem? The die size is smaller on the new one, so I shouldn't have to worry about fit? Die size is the size of the GPU chip on the card and has little to do with how large the rest of the card is, however that one is a pretty small card so it should fit fine. PCIe is backwards compatible so 1.0/2.0/3.0 does not matter, you could maybe run into decreased performance if you were planning to buy one of the top end new cards like the GTX 1080 and you had an even older mobo with PCIe 1.0 but PCIe 2.0 is enough for pretty much anything so you'll be fine.
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May 13, 2016 20:29
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:Thanks a lot! That's a PCIe 3.0 card. My mobo is PCIe 2.0, but that shouldn't be a problem? The die size is smaller on the new one, so I shouldn't have to worry about fit? Die size doesn't factor in, and all PCIe spec means is that the bus is going to be slower. For context on the biggest baddest card you can get today, running at 2.0 equivalent speeds or even half that would cost a user less than 5% performance. Your card would be way less impacted.
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May 13, 2016 20:33
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I'm looking to upgrade a 6-year old PC to something that can handle modern games reasonably well (mostly eyeing up the new Total War...). I'm not too fussed about ultra-high settings, just want a smooth framerate at native resolution.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor (£188.33 @ Aria PC) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler (£16.98 @ Ebuyer) Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£105.17 @ CCL Computers) Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£84.91 @ More Computers) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£111.94 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card (£256.56 @ Amazon UK) Case: Fractal Design Define Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£65.66 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£74.99 @ Amazon UK) Total: £904.54 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-13 20:36 BST+0100 I already have the OS, some hard drives and a DVD drive from the current build. How reasonable is this? Any good way to shave off £100 or so and keep a reasonable spec? I'm happy to pay the current cost (or a bit extra) if this sort of price range is good value for performance, but I'm so out of the loop for computer components that I'm struggling to assess that myself.
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May 13, 2016 20:47
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I'm trying to find out if upgrading my existing gaming system: i5-2500k, 8gigs of ram, Geforce 970 to a modern skylake system would be worthwhile. I only plan on upgrading the CPU, Mobo and RAM, i'll keep the 970 I'm already using. The parts i've picked is from stuff in the OP. Here's what I came up with: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor - £188 MSI H170A PC Mate ATX LGA1151 Motherboard - £80 Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory - £67 AOC G2460PG 144Hz 24.0" Monitor - £279 http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/sD6RNG I live in the UK, and my budget is aprox. £600.
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May 13, 2016 20:54
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Gunder posted:I'm trying to find out if upgrading my existing gaming system: i5-2500k, 8gigs of ram, Geforce 970 to a modern skylake system would be worthwhile. I only plan on upgrading the CPU, Mobo and RAM, i'll keep the 970 I'm already using. You should overclock the hell out of the 2500k and then see if you still feel like upgrading your CPU is gonna do much for you.
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May 13, 2016 20:57
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Adeptus posted:I'm looking to upgrade a 6-year old PC to something that can handle modern games reasonably well (mostly eyeing up the new Total War...). I'm not too fussed about ultra-high settings, just want a smooth framerate at native resolution. Here's the "save £100" option: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£170.44 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£90.97 @ CCL Computers) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£64.19 @ Ebuyer) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£111.94 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card (£256.56 @ Amazon UK) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£41.77 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£74.99 @ Amazon UK) Total: £810.86 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-13 21:04 BST+0100 Sacrifices only a little performance, some motherboard features you probably won't miss and the quietness and convenience of the aftermarket cooler and high end case. Still a fine build and slightly better value for money. That said, if you do go with something more like what you posted (and I would if you can afford it), get the 6600K rather than the 6600. It's a shame to miss out on the extra performance you get by overclocking when the entire rest of your build is already set up for it. It's worth mentioning that NVidia's new graphics cards are just a few weeks away, so this is an awkward time to be buying one. That said, if you're not up to buy a used card, the 1070 is going to be a bit more expensive so you might not like that option even if it does have much better price/performance. Gunder posted:I'm trying to find out if upgrading my existing gaming system: i5-2500k, 8gigs of ram, Geforce 970 to a modern skylake system would be worthwhile. I only plan on upgrading the CPU, Mobo and RAM, i'll keep the 970 I'm already using. Definitely don't upgrade to anything less than a 6600K with a Z170 motherboard. Is your 2500K running at stock speed? If so, overclock it (buy something like this if you don't have a good cooler) and enjoy a bigger performance boost than you would have gotten from that £300 worth of parts. HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 21:09 on May 13, 2016 |
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May 13, 2016 21:01
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Gunder posted:I'm trying to find out if upgrading my existing gaming system: i5-2500k, 8gigs of ram, Geforce 970 to a modern skylake system would be worthwhile. I only plan on upgrading the CPU, Mobo and RAM, i'll keep the 970 I'm already using. There is no point in going with a non-k CPU, a H170 mobo and DDR4-3000 RAM. First off the H170 will only run the RAM at 2133, not 3000. Second your i5-2500k with an overclock will be as fast or faster than the i5-6600. So you should either OC your 2500k and get a good CPU cooler if you are using the stock one, a Hyper 212 EVO will work as long as it fits in your case. Alternately you should get an i5-6600k, a Z170 motherboard, the same RAM you have in your posted build and a good CPU cooler and OC the 6600k.
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May 13, 2016 21:08
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:There is no point in going with a non-k CPU, a H170 mobo and DDR4-3000 RAM. First off the H170 will only run the RAM at 2133, not 3000. Second your i5-2500k with an overclock will be as fast or faster than the i5-6600. So you should either OC your 2500k and get a good CPU cooler if you are using the stock one, a Hyper 212 EVO will work as long as it fits in your case. Alternately you should get an i5-6600k, a Z170 motherboard, the same RAM you have in your posted build and a good CPU cooler and OC the 6600k. I'm not really comfortable doing any overclocking, which is why I picked the non-k version of the 6600. Another reason for my upgrade would be to get away from my old, faulty motherboard, which has the stepping issue that the first sandybridge motherboards had, which prevents me from using more than one hard drive and one optical drive. If I really don't want to go down the overclocking route, isn't a non-k 6600 going to save me the cost of having to buy a separate cooler, as it looks like the K version doesn't include one? (my current cpu cooler has developed a clicking noise, so i'd rather not use that if I can avoid it). I changed out the motherboard, to get the RAM working at the speed it's meant to. Would this be appropriate? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor (£188.33 @ Aria PC) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£91.31 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£66.99 @ Ebuyer) Monitor: AOC G2460PG 144Hz 24.0" Monitor (£278.77 @ CCL Computers) Total: £625.40 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-13 21:26 BST+0100 Gunder fucked around with this message at 21:30 on May 13, 2016 |
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May 13, 2016 21:28
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HMS Boromir posted:That said, if you do go with something more like what you posted (and I would if you can afford it), get the 6600K rather than the 6600. It's a shame to miss out on the extra performance you get by overclocking when the entire rest of your build is already set up for it. This is great advice, thanks. How feasible is switching to the cheaper motherboard and case, and upgrading to the 6600K for overclocking? Looks to reduce the price to around £875 - http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/TJqQ3C. Would it be worth switching to your recommended cheaper RAM as well, or does that cut the overclocking potential? Adeptus fucked around with this message at 21:55 on May 13, 2016 |
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May 13, 2016 21:52
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Gunder posted:I'm not really comfortable doing any overclocking, which is why I picked the non-k version of the 6600. Another reason for my upgrade would be to get away from my old, faulty motherboard, which has the stepping issue that the first sandybridge motherboards had, which prevents me from using more than one hard drive and one optical drive. If I really don't want to go down the overclocking route, isn't a non-k 6600 going to save me the cost of having to buy a separate cooler, as it looks like the K version doesn't include one? (my current cpu cooler has developed a clicking noise, so i'd rather not use that if I can avoid it). Just so you know, that RAM won't just run at 3000MHz on it's own. You have to overclock it to that speed, all the "DDR4-3000" means is that it has been tested to ensure that it will run at that speed. Also you should be fine with overclocking, these days you can just tell your motherboard to overclock the CPU and it will do it on its own, really the only thing you will need other than that is a decent CPU cooler and the k-version of the 6600.
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May 13, 2016 21:55
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Adeptus posted:This is great advice, thanks. How feasible is switching to the cheaper motherboard and case, and upgrading to the 6600K for overclocking? Looks to reduce the price to around £875 - http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/TJqQ3C. Would it be worth switching to your recommended cheaper RAM as well, or does that cut the overclocking potential? You should really, really, consider overclocking. It's as easy as going in to your BIOS and changing one number from 37 to say, something like 44. It's not scary, at all.
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May 13, 2016 21:58
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Gunder posted:I'm not really comfortable doing any overclocking, which is why I picked the non-k version of the 6600.
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May 13, 2016 22:05
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VulgarandStupid posted:You should really, really, consider overclocking. It's as easy as going in to your BIOS and changing one number from 37 to say, something like 44. It's not scary, at all. No concerns there - I overclocked my current PC and it's old enough that it was a bit of a pain, so I'm happy to do the same for a newer, easier one. I'm just trying to work out what I can cost-thrift from the build and still have the same capacity to overclock.
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May 13, 2016 22:07
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Adeptus posted:This is great advice, thanks. How feasible is switching to the cheaper motherboard and case, and upgrading to the 6600K for overclocking? Looks to reduce the price to around £875 - http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/TJqQ3C. Would it be worth switching to your recommended cheaper RAM as well, or does that cut the overclocking potential? Quite feasible, you won't need a fancy motherboard or high end cooling to hit your garden variety 4.4-4.5 GHz and everything past that is really just for enthusiasts who like overclocking for its own sake. The RAM is a fairly small step down in speed so if you're looking for places to cut costs it's an easy way to save £20. Adeptus posted:No concerns there - I overclocked my current PC and it's old enough that it was a bit of a pain, so I'm happy to do the same for a newer, easier one. I'm just trying to work out what I can cost-thrift from the build and still have the same capacity to overclock. I think they meant to quote the other person, who was dead set against overclocking. HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 22:16 on May 13, 2016 |
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May 13, 2016 22:09
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HMS Boromir posted:I think they meant to quote the other person, who was dead set against overclocking. Ah right, that makes more sense. I reckon I'll go with something along the lines of the 6600K then, seems like a reasonable deal for a decent boost in power. Thanks very much for the help!
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May 13, 2016 22:16
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You might want to keep a bit of an eye out to see if AMD gets around to updating their graphics cards if you're still looking to shave costs and are willing to go with 970 performance from a new AMD card with a lower pricetag rather than the 970 pricetag on the 1070 for better performance. No idea how they're going to turn out though.
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May 13, 2016 22:52
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Shitanko posted:How about the Supermicro A1SAM-2750F? I was thinking something with three expansion slots and with the same amount of SATA (this one only has two and fewer sata). I think the ASrock board will work for me anyways though. Thanks.
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May 14, 2016 00:33
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Gunder posted:I'm not really comfortable doing any overclocking, which is why I picked the non-k version of the 6600. Another reason for my upgrade would be to get away from my old, faulty motherboard, which has the stepping issue that the first sandybridge motherboards had, which prevents me from using more than one hard drive and one optical drive. If I really don't want to go down the overclocking route, isn't a non-k 6600 going to save me the cost of having to buy a separate cooler, as it looks like the K version doesn't include one? (my current cpu cooler has developed a clicking noise, so i'd rather not use that if I can avoid it). I'm going to add to the sentiment that overclocking is a no-brainer. i5-*K chips are all capable of significant gains through overclocking versus the non-K equivalent and you cannot damage your chip or anything else if all you're going to change is the multiplier. Getting high overclocks requires high voltage and that carries some risk but you can get most of the way up without doing that. Taking my 2500K as an example, the stock speed on this thing is 3.3GHz and I can run it at 4.4 at least without touching voltage at all. That's a one-third increase in processor speed for a total investment of around maybe 10% of the cost of the system if you consider the premium for a Z-series motherboard (which you are already paying), the cost of a HSF and the premium for the K chip. It's more of a difference for many applications than upgrading to an i7 for generally less cost. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 00:48 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 00:43
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6700K Overclocking annoyance: One core (it's always thread #8) is failing with a rounding error @ 4.5 GHz and 4.4 GHz in only a couple hours of prime95, while the other cores were set for 12-25 hours with no errors  All temps at or below 80 C too (max=75-80, with the early failure core being the 75!). Any tips?
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May 14, 2016 02:22
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admiraldennis posted:6700K Overclocking annoyance: 75C is very high for the 6700k, also prime95 is also a very tough test for an OC so I'm not surprised it's giving you problems. You should take a look at the Overclock.net Skylake OCing thread, make sure to read through the stress testing section.
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May 14, 2016 02:37
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:75C is very high for the 6700k, also prime95 is also a very tough test for an OC so I'm not surprised it's giving you problems. You should take a look at the Overclock.net Skylake OCing thread, make sure to read through the stress testing section. Oh yeah, this is p95 28.9 on small FFT, basically the hottest thing possible. Still frustrating to have all my cores survive at 4.4 -and- 4.5 for 12+ hours except one consistently dying 2-3 hours in. That thread looks great, thanks!
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May 14, 2016 02:57
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What country are you in? United States What are you using the system for? Gaming What's your budget? Around $1200 If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? 1920x1080p 24" screen (plus another square monitor just to watch videos on the side), with the probability of upgrading monitors for 4K gaming (though I'm totally unfamiliar with 4K beyond big monitors and tons of room for activities). How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? I'd like to be setup for VR in the future and would like to run games on high graphics. My setup is five years old and it's time for an upgrade. Looks like I'm starting at just the right time with the new cards announced. This is the breakdown that I came up with after checking threads for like a week. I've got a couple cats and want to make sure my case can stay free from feline interference, so I'm hoping the case has as good of dust and hair filters as it seems. I'm hoping to start piecing it together in time for the 1070. Any suggestions on changes to accommodate the pieces? Should I wait to start picking up parts until the specs/retail specifics of the new card come out? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($244.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.00 @ Newegg) Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Define Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Newegg) Other: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 ($379.00) Total: $1224.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-13 21:53 EDT-0400
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May 14, 2016 02:57
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Got my pc built and running day before yesterday and everything seems great so far. Only ran into a couple snags during setup: I was using a bootable thumbdrive for installation but apparently the Win7 iso doesn't have usb 3.0 drivers and my pc only had usb 3.0 ports so it was throwing up a no installation disc/drive error, luckily I found a program solely for injecting usb 3.0 drivers into a bootable Win7 image and it worked perfectly. Later, after some windows updates, windows update updated itself then promptly searched for updates for 3 hours before queueing up 200+ updates and breaking. Couldn't download or install any updates with it. Tried a handful of solutions i saw from others with the issue and it eventually started working again. But anyway, wanted to say thanks to AVeryLargeRadish for the parts list and gettin the ball rolling
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May 14, 2016 03:03
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admiraldennis posted:Oh yeah, this is p95 28.9 on small FFT, basically the hottest thing possible. Still frustrating to have all my cores survive at 4.4 -and- 4.5 for 12+ hours except one consistently dying 2-3 hours in. My thinking is that you have to ask yourself "Is this test relevant to my usage case?". If calculating primes is a good predictor for crashing in your workloads then prime95 can be a useful tool, but if you could get a higher clock, acceptable temperatures and stable operation in your actual workloads then aiming for p95 stability is just holding you back. No Lynch posted:What country are you in? United States That looks good, I would go with the Cryorig H7 over the M9i instead and maybe save some money with a 650W EVGA GQ/GS/G2/P2 PSU instead but other than that it looks perfect to me. I would wait to build until you can get all the parts before buying so you still have plenty of time within the return window in case something needs to be exchanged. AfroGunsou posted:Got my pc built and running day before yesterday and everything seems great so far. I'm glad it all worked out for you, have fun with the new machine. 
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May 14, 2016 05:23
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Country: USA Use: Gaming Budget: $1500 max Resolution: 1920 x 1080 on current monitor Performance: Want to be able to run AAA games on high setting alongside streaming/recording. Looking for some feedback. This is going to be a gaming machine that should be capable of playing new stuff for the next few years but I am specifically building it with the upcoming Total War: Warhammer in mind. It is my understanding that Total War games have a higher CPU/GPU demand ratio than is typical for games with high production values. For that reason I've included a CPU that to my (definitely not expert) knowledge is a level above the GPU, figuring that if I really want I can swap out just the video card a year or two later for the new stuff coming out and have everything back on parity. I not certain if this plan is totally retarded or not, or even based on correct assumptions in the first place. I would like for the system to be able to play anything on the current market on high setting while streaming or recording. However that is not an ironclad requirement, as I only make videos as occasionally for fun. I don't do it full time/professionally or make money from it or anything so if that's too much for my budget I'll forget about it. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12 37.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.69 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($157.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3400 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Mushkin Reactor 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($219.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380X 4GB NITRO Video Card ($238.98 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master Storm Scout 2 Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1362.58 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-14 01:36 EDT-0400
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May 14, 2016 07:00
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Chomp8645 posted:Country: USA Here's a revised and streamlined build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.96 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($150.88 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($228.60 @ Amazon) Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ NCIX US) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: GTX 1070 ($379.99) Total: $1419.38 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-14 02:32 EDT-0400 1) I decided to add a much better CPU cooler since it only costs a little more. 2) I went down to DDR4-3200 RAM since it's a lot cheaper and you see a performance drop off past 3200MHz or so. 3) I switched the SSD to a brand I trust a bit more, feel free to change it back if you are comfortable with Mushkin. 4) I changed out the case for a much better one. It's one of the better cases out there and is cheaper to boot. It has very good cable management, great cooling, is fairly quiet and is easy to build in. 5) I changed the PSU to one that is significantly cheaper and just about as good. 6) I changed the video card to the upcoming GTX 1070. It simply does not make sense to spend a bunch on a old video card when new stuff is less than a month away. Keep an eye on tech sites for news of AMD's Polaris cards and reviews of the 1080 and 1070 in the coming weeks. In less than a month you could have a 1070 that is faster than a 980Ti or Titan X, don't spend on a 380X now of all times, if nothing else the new cards will drive the price of the old ones into the floor.
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May 14, 2016 07:55
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:How do you not run into issues with number of available USB ports when gaming on an ITX board? Just going down to mATX was an issue for me. I'm heavier on peripherals than most (TrackIR, separate joystick and throttle, headset, Xbox and steam controllers, mouse, keyboard, wireless keyboard for when I sit on the couch and steam to the TV, etc) but even when I cut out the non-essentials I couldn't make it work. My Motherboard (ASUS Z170i) has 8 back USB and the case has 2 front. The front ones are a bit tight but I got a 2 meter cable for the phone that i'm routing from the back so I can use the front ones for the stuff I'm occasionally unplugging like the Xbox controller and the headset. I still got 3 free ports on the back.
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May 14, 2016 09:08
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:How do you not run into issues with number of available USB ports when gaming on an ITX board? Just going down to mATX was an issue for me. I'm heavier on peripherals than most (TrackIR, separate joystick and throttle, headset, Xbox and steam controllers, mouse, keyboard, wireless keyboard for when I sit on the couch and steam to the TV, etc) but even when I cut out the non-essentials I couldn't make it work. Just get some USB hubs! They work great for all that stuff.
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May 14, 2016 09:12
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peak debt posted:My Motherboard (ASUS Z170i) has 8 back USB and the case has 2 front. The front ones are a bit tight but I got a 2 meter cable for the phone that i'm routing from the back so I can use the front ones for the stuff I'm occasionally unplugging like the Xbox controller and the headset. I still got 3 free ports on the back. I just use a USB hub if I need extra ports. 
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May 14, 2016 09:15
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Hello everyone! As a birthday gift, a mate of mine's GF has tasked me to build him a PC to take him out of the stone age. I'm also gonna gift him a copy of Civ5 as a welcoming gift to the Information Era, so that's the sys reqs right there: must run Civ5 flawlessly, on windows I'd guess. Mini-ITX form factor under a minimalist budget, purchasing parts in NZ. This will be fun! So: How grunty are Intel onboard gfx cards nowadays? The steam page asks for "512 MB ATI 4800 series or better, 512 MB nVidia 9800 series or better " While that's pretty low-end for a discrete gfx card, I don't think I can go all the way into an all-in-one board with a prefitted CPU, those things are anemic. So I'm thinking a higher end Mobo with intergrated Wifi, discrete decent CPU with onboard gfx. Is this thinking correct?
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May 14, 2016 11:25
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Hey tech guys, I would like to upgrade my system for more gaming awesomeness. But affordable, mid-range awesomeness! I bought my system a couple years back (2011) and built it myself; to be honest, an experience i'd rather not repeat, I hate getting all down and dirty with the hardware. I'm really hoping that my GPU is the lynchpin and a simple GPU-swap will prove sufficient to get most modern games running in high resolution. I'd rather not mess with the CPU or motherboard, but would be willing to if that's what makes the most sense. I last upgraded the GPU 2 years ago. What country are you in? Germany What are you using the system for? Gaming primarily, want to run Overwatch in high with 60FPS (open beta I had to go to medium for 60fps). Also hoping to get gud for Battlefield 1. What's your budget? I'm hoping to get away by upgrading my GPU, so about 250-300 € max? If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? 1920x1200 Current System: Mainboard: Gigabyte GA 870 A Processor: AMD Phenom I X4 955 Processor 8GB RAM Sapphire 11217-01-20G Dual-X Radeon R9 ATI (PCI-e 3.0, 2GB GDDR5-Speicher, 2x DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort, 1020MHz GPU) Windows 7 64 bit Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
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May 14, 2016 11:43
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To people recommending 6600k's and overclocking I just want to point out that no gains are guaranteed. My 6600k does 4.0 GHz, barely because it sometimes fails during boot. So I'm running stock speeds now. I even sold my AIO watercooler because of this dud
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May 14, 2016 11:55
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Serephina posted:Hello everyone! Yeah, I think you're right to avoid the embedded chips - for Intel those tend to be Celeron or Pentium models that are actually jumped-up Atoms and wouldn't really be capable of any serious gaming. It looks like the standard HD 530 integrated from Skylake would probably be able to run Civ 5 at low-medium settings from what I'm seeing, but for truly smooth play at high settings you'll probably need either a discrete card or one of the Iris Pro chips with eDRAM. If low-medium is fine for a start though, you can always get a system with space for a GPU and if they don't like it they can add one later. snuff posted:To people recommending 6600k's and overclocking I just want to point out that no gains are guaranteed. My 6600k does 4.0 GHz, barely because it sometimes fails during boot. So I'm running stock speeds now. Well, that's still almost a 25% improvement over stock but I can understand the disappointment considering it seems far from typical. Have you messed with voltage at all? Also, Intel offers insurance policies of a sort that allow you to get a replacement if you fry your chip, so if you think it's worth it you could buy one and then play fast and loose with the voltage to try and get where you want. If you do kill your chip, it sounds like the replacement would probably be better. One more thing is that I'd try a different PSU if you have one around to see if it makes a difference. Unstable or weak voltage could be unnoticeable elsewhere but cause problems to manifest during OCing. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 14:57 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 14:52
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