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How dare you guys blaspheme against the holy shell!?!?
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May 13, 2016 14:08
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Lethemonster posted:I nearly bought one of the red panda models as well but then I looked a bit closer and realized they had given it... cleavage. Looking at the photos, it isn't terrible BEWBS or anything. I think the painting accentuates the cleavage more than the actual models does. I think if you did a black chest, like a real red panda, you'd be good.
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May 13, 2016 17:01
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Lethemonster posted:Along with that I'm going to be painting these guys and maybe a few more if I can make up my mind. I'm so excited to be painting something that isn't grim dark war machinery or heavily amoured monsters and so on. Jessica Riche and Marike Reimer are my favourite painters too, I can't wait to do ham handed versions of their paint jobs.   These look amazing. It's so nice to see cute animals with great NMM and other bright highlighting styles applied to them.
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May 13, 2016 18:08
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Can't post those without showing off these:   
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May 13, 2016 21:31
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The model version of 
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May 13, 2016 22:00
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All of them are great and most wonderfully lots of the minis - especially the dogs - have the gorgeous design sketches below the pictures of the painted minis and then below that, photos of the pets that inspired them. As well as mouslings and the Dark Sword Minis, can anyone think of any other lines with decent minis of animals or cuter creatures?
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May 13, 2016 22:01
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Lethemonster posted:All of them are great and most wonderfully lots of the minis - especially the dogs - have the gorgeous design sketches below the pictures of the painted minis and then below that, photos of the pets that inspired them. Most recent Bones KS has some super cute halloween chibi things.
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May 13, 2016 23:19
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 Wednesday frog looking good.
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May 13, 2016 23:32
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Lethemonster posted:All of them are great and most wonderfully lots of the minis - especially the dogs - have the gorgeous design sketches below the pictures of the painted minis and then below that, photos of the pets that inspired them. Not really designed to be cute, but WarGods of Ægyptus has a lot of human-animal miniatures designed around the Egyptian gods: https://www.crocodilegames.com/store/itemList.cfm?catID=14&sort=prodID The Sebeks, the Heru, and the Tethru are all really well done.
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May 14, 2016 02:33
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x-postin' Just finished my Uriel Ventris, 4th co. Captain:   
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May 14, 2016 15:29
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The green cloak could use some more shading. Looks a bit flat compared to the white skirt and other decoration.
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May 14, 2016 15:51
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Ok, here is my quick and dirty photo guide. First off, you'll need two clip lamps with 75 watt daylight bulbs. For the light box itself, i use a white science project trip-tych board, and a sheet of white foam core for the base. if daylight bulbs are unavailable, either the camera settings need to be matched to the type of bulb used, or bounce boards need to be used. basically, anything to diffuse the glare from the light on the model. lastly, a small white box helps to keep the seam of the boards out of the picture by raising the model slightly.   Use something to brace the camera or your phone. leaning it against books is great and easy. (you can also variate the height of the camera.)  To make sure the color is right, either adjust the the settings in camera, or modify the finished photo. If it's a digital camera, make sure its set on macro, and the light setting matches the bulb. It also may have an apeture, contrast, birghtness, and F-stop setting. All can be adjusted to make the photo "correct." for cell phones, most have photo-manipulation in camera. It keeps all of the raw data on the picture, so you can open the photo editing option on the phone and adjust all the same settings after taking the photo. There are a few apps for changing the settings before taking the picture, but most standard smart phones have the basics needed to edit the photo. no matter how you adjust the final photo, just use your eyeballs to make sure the model IRL matches the photo of it. Lastly, when you upload to Imgur, you can adjust the posted size so you don't break tables. sadly, this is unavailable in the app so posting from your phone posts the full size of the picture.
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May 14, 2016 18:15
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Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
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Cool! This is good info, thanks! I guess part of my problem is trying to take a picture with the monitor in the background for when I do Oaths, Turning on the flash helped when I took pictures at night, though they get washed out if there's enough window light (my shade isn't super great at blocking light sometimes), so it might just be I need to limit myself to taking pictures at night. Also:  Minotaur done (or at least,table-ready for now). I'm working on some cool mouselings (a bee keeper and a druid), though imgur's being really dumb all of the sudden and won't let me uplod.
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May 14, 2016 23:29
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Foolster41 posted:Cool! This is good info, thanks! The monitor will always mess up the white balance, whatever device you are using to take the picture is trying to compensate for half the photo being really bright, and the other being dark. It balances to the middle, often blowing out both at the same time. The flash evens out the light by adding a ton everywhere at the time the picture is taken, with the drawback of white-washing everything. You could always try taking the oath fulfilled picture with the Monitor, then taking a series of other pretty pictures with just the model for showing off.
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May 15, 2016 00:53
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Foolster41 posted:
There's a lot of mess here, bits where silver has spilled over onto the flesh etc etc. With your next models try to focus on sticking "within the lines" and getting a nice clean coverage.
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May 15, 2016 02:06
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Could I get a recommendation for a decent all-around brush? I haven't painted anything in almost a decade, and I know the WN Series 7 is the gold standard, but I'm looking for something a little cheaper. Not a total piece of crap, but maybe a natural bristle brush in the $10-ish dollar range?
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May 15, 2016 03:30
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So I have a guild ball Masons Goal Token I'm working on. Kinda wish I could make the flutes on the shaft stand out more*, but I dunno how to do it. The testbed in the back left was washed with watered down paint, but it just ended up looking messy. I suppose I could just try to do it more neatly. I not sure I want to shade and highlight each flute though.  Any ideas? Maybe this'd be more appropriate for the terrain thread, given the subject material.  * They're pretty shallow, unlike most real ionic columns. Galaga Galaxian fucked around with this message at 04:10 on May 15, 2016 |
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May 15, 2016 04:06
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Paint them a darker color, then drybrush on a quick highlight. Just make sure your drybrush really is mostly dry, or the paint will get into those very shallow depressions. But it should work fine.
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May 15, 2016 05:16
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:x-postin' Dude is sweet. I think you could do a bit more with cloak, back of the banner, and shoulders though.
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May 15, 2016 05:32
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Galaga Galaxian posted:So I have a guild ball Masons Goal Token I'm working on. Paint a thinned down brown into the cracks and then rehighlight the raised edges. Or use something like Tamiya/Vallejo smoke, GW Agrax or similar.
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May 15, 2016 08:41
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First of many, hopefully. Also started priming with an Airbrush. It's like being able to see after being blind. Or something. 
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May 15, 2016 08:42
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Rad
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May 15, 2016 08:49
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Foolster41 posted:Cool! This is good info, thanks! Unless you're going for a speed paint bonus, you don't have to include the time in the background as long as the finished photo is uploaded within the time. This will make it a lot easier to get a better photo.
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May 15, 2016 10:06
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Galaga Galaxian posted:I not sure I want to shade and highlight each flute though. I'd base coat it your darkest color, drybrush a mid tone, then clean that up with painted highlights. For a texture like that you don't want to paint highlights with the point of your bristles, you want to use its middle. Easiest thing would be to take a large fat brush, get most of the paint off it, and run it sidelong down each flute with your lightest highlight color. Basically hold the brush in a perpendicular T to the flute and let the detail's shape do the work. You might also want to consider adding moss or some green wash stains around the base and tan wash stains around the top. It's a little detail, but it'll break up the "huge block of single color" problem. (I do that for walls and fences, it should look even better on a column.) moths fucked around with this message at 14:13 on May 15, 2016 |
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May 15, 2016 14:10
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Yeast posted:First of many, hopefully. Warhammer 40skull
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May 15, 2016 14:28
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Star Man posted:Warhammer 40skull Lies I only see one. Two if you count the one inside the head inside the helmet. For a GW mini that's like wearing no skulls at all! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwRJ5IoKTmg
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May 15, 2016 20:02
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:There's a lot of mess here, bits where silver has spilled over onto the flesh etc etc. With your next models try to focus on sticking "within the lines" and getting a nice clean coverage. Yeah, I like painting, but I admit I can get a bit impatient. Also the one big disadvantage of bones figures is they tend to have white spots appear in gaps after being painted, and it seems to take lots of repainting to get rid of the white spots thespaceinvader posted:Unless you're going for a speed paint bonus, you don't have to include the time in the background as long as the finished photo is uploaded within the time. This will make it a lot easier to get a better photo.
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May 15, 2016 22:00
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Foolster41 posted:Yeah, I like painting, but I admit I can get a bit impatient. Also the one big disadvantage of bones figures is they tend to have white spots appear in gaps after being painted, and it seems to take lots of repainting to get rid of the white spots You have to timestamp the oath picture - i.e. the unpainted mini before you start - but not the end picture, that just needs your username. Unless the rules changed since last year.
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May 15, 2016 23:12
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Could I get a recommendation for a decent all-around brush? I haven't painted anything in almost a decade, and I know the WN Series 7 is the gold standard, but I'm looking for something a little cheaper. Not a total piece of crap, but maybe a natural bristle brush in the $10-ish dollar range? Here's the problem: you buy cheap, you're going to keep putting money into brushes that crap out after a few sessions. You're going to (shortly) get to a point where if you had just spent a few extra bucks on a good brush and some brush soap, you would have saved money. A W&N Series 7 size 1 brush is $20 USD. I do most of my painting with this brush. If you go crazy and get a size 0, you'll have spent $40 for two brushes that will last you for a long time. Save the cheap brushes for drybrushing, washes, and super fine detail (like eyes.)
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May 16, 2016 16:12
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berzerkmonkey posted:Here's the problem: you buy cheap, you're going to keep putting money into brushes that crap out after a few sessions. You're going to (shortly) get to a point where if you had just spent a few extra bucks on a good brush and some brush soap, you would have saved money. A W&N Series 7 size 1 brush is $20 USD. I do most of my painting with this brush. If you go crazy and get a size 0, you'll have spent $40 for two brushes that will last you for a long time. The Series 33 Rosemary & Co brushes is a good option too. Bought them at a recommendation from this thread and they have worked perfectly.
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May 16, 2016 16:18
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Cooked Auto posted:The Series 33 Rosemary & Co brushes is a good option too. Bought them at a recommendation from this thread and they have worked perfectly. Good call. Point being, buy quality tools - it will pay off in the long run.
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May 16, 2016 16:26
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Guess who has been asked to paint over £1000 worth of Dark Souls miniature sets from the kickstarter It me Pray for my airbrush
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May 16, 2016 16:48
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Lethemonster posted:Guess who has been asked to paint over £1000 worth of Dark Souls miniature sets from the kickstarter To be fair, those models look goddamn lovely.
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May 16, 2016 17:52
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berzerkmonkey posted:Here's the problem: you buy cheap, you're going to keep putting money into brushes that crap out after a few sessions. You're going to (shortly) get to a point where if you had just spent a few extra bucks on a good brush and some brush soap, you would have saved money. A W&N Series 7 size 1 brush is $20 USD. I do most of my painting with this brush. If you go crazy and get a size 0, you'll have spent $40 for two brushes that will last you for a long time. You must bash around your cheap brushes like crazy if they only last a few sessions. Calm down.
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May 16, 2016 18:27
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sassassin posted:You must bash around your cheap brushes like crazy if they only last a few sessions. Calm down. I wasn't freaking out - I was explaining that you will get a better payoff if you invest in some good brushes. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 19:30 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 18:56
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Lethemonster posted:Guess who has been asked to paint over £1000 worth of Dark Souls miniature sets from the kickstarter Good luck, post pictures? 
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May 16, 2016 19:05
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berzerkmonkey posted:I wasn't freaking out - I was explaining that you will get a better payoff if you invest in some good brushes. Calm down when you use your brushes. The cheap one I'm using has lasted months with the bare minimum of care.
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May 16, 2016 19:23
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sassassin posted:Calm down when you use your brushes. The cheap one I'm using has lasted months with the bare minimum of care. I retracted my statement, as I misinterpreted your phrasing - apologies. It's not a matter of being "calm" while painting, it's a matter of quality. Cheap (especially synthetic) brushes tend to fray or suffer from curling of the tip. I've got some 10/0 and smaller brushes that I use for tiny details, and they don't seem to suffer the same fates as the larger brushes, but I suspect that is due to the lack and shortness of bristles. If you're happy with cheapo brushes, more power to you - from what I understand, James Wappel paints with craft brushes. In my experience, you'll get better results and mileage out of a better brush.
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May 16, 2016 19:35
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I run into problems like this with cheap brushes. I'm planning on finally spending the money on a W&N series 7. Which size should I go for? I have a 10-0 size brush that's been good to me so I don't need a super fine one, but I don't want some huge one either.
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May 16, 2016 20:01
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Floppychop posted:I run into problems like this with cheap brushes. I like my worn out #0 and #5/0 brushes, the #0 is about right for amount of paint per drop of water, and the #5/0 is perfect for 1/3 of the previous mixture. EDIT: Plus, I have no qualms about being rough with them to mix poo poo up
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May 16, 2016 20:05
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