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Z3n posted:Turn the TC off and the SuperDuke becomes a very different experience. I guess it will in a sense (but I didn't want to loop a demo bike). However as commendable as it is, I wish the bike wasn't as smooth. It doesn't feel like there's a 1300cc v twin pounding away between your legs. I like the rough edge the 990 had to it, my Duke has, a Buell most definitely has, etc.
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May 12, 2016 17:06
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 21:59 |
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Innovative new evaporative cooling system for motorbike radiators, pledge on my kickstarter now!
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May 12, 2016 17:59
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High Protein posted:I guess it will in a sense (but I didn't want to loop a demo bike). However as commendable as it is, I wish the bike wasn't as smooth. It doesn't feel like there's a 1300cc v twin pounding away between your legs. I like the rough edge the 990 had to it, my Duke has, a Buell most definitely has, etc. How much did loctite remunerate you for this post?
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May 12, 2016 20:20
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HotCanadianChick posted:How much did loctite remunerate you for this post? Heh... 
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May 12, 2016 20:33
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So I was gonna do the compression test on my (vstrom) engine, but decided before I fill it back up with oil I'll pop open my clutch cover and take a look because it's been noisy and my clutch is wonky (probably the slave cylinder). There's some metal floating around in the oil.  I'm not sure what any of it is from. Did I blow my engine? Or is my clutch/plates damaged?
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May 12, 2016 21:00
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If I'm seeing it right the lower picture looks like a chunk of gasket of some kind, the upper picture is Bad News.
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May 12, 2016 21:06
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More metal  This picture didn't focus right, by that pocket is what holds the filter in pic2,and all the poo poo in pic1 came from in there, below the filter.  The metal definitely looks like it was wrapped around something before it disintegrated. I don't know what the amber colored stuff is. Could this be damage from me busting a chain and bending the clutch push rod? Or did I grenade my engine? Schroeder91 fucked around with this message at 21:29 on May 12, 2016 |
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May 12, 2016 21:27
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The metal parts are bits of a ball carrier for a bearing, either one of the mains or one of the gearbox shafts. The plastic parts look like bits of timing chain guide or similar. He's dead jim.
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May 12, 2016 21:34
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I take it that stuff is irreparable and it's time to find a new engine? Is this something I or the PO caused through negligence?
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May 12, 2016 21:41
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Never knew some engines have oil screens in them that you aren't supposed to clean/replace.
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May 12, 2016 22:13
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I didn't even know it was there until I opened it up. Dunno if you're supposed to cleannor replace it, but that'd be super annoying if you're supposed to.
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May 12, 2016 22:18
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Schroeder91 posted:I take it that stuff is irreparable and it's time to find a new engine? Nothing is irreparable, but it is cheaper and easier to get a new one.  I was optimistic, but those bits are not good at all. And I should've thought about just opening the clutch cover when the oil was drained anyway. Regarding negligence, it could be that the OP has abused it, killing an engine isn't that easy. Or maybe that overheating incident caused it? You could perhaps sell it for parts and get a new bike, that would mean less wrenching at least.
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May 12, 2016 22:56
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Schroeder91 posted:I take it that stuff is irreparable and it's time to find a new engine? How mechanically apt are you? If you're lucky (very lucky) and it's just some shot bearings you would be out the cost of an engine gasket set and a whole lot of time. If you don't feel comfortable taking the engine out and apart then it's new engine/bike time. That screen is basically just the oil pump intake gauze, it does the same job as the metal mesh on car pumps but with a different layout.
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May 12, 2016 23:34
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I went to the shop and talked about it, he's gonna pick it up and I'm gonna find an engine on eBay. Sad times  I was hoping it wouldn't come to this, or I could fix it myself but I want my bike back and riding really bad. We think that maybe when I snapped my chain and it bent the push rod it hit some bearings and broke them, but there was a c-ring in there and those are in the tranny I guess. Idk, lotta labor and I want to ride really bad. Plus the chance of rogue melting drifting in my bike to later come back for more punishment.
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May 12, 2016 23:45
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May 12, 2016 23:54
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High Protein posted:Never knew some engines have oil screens in them that you aren't supposed to clean/replace. The cbf125 has the same type of oil filter in that location and it's very much on the maintenance schedule, they just expect you to have the shop do it.
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May 13, 2016 07:29
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Schroeder91 posted:I went to the shop and talked about it, he's gonna pick it up and I'm gonna find an engine on eBay. Sad times That doesn't sounds real plausible. What is most likely is that you blew your headgasket when you overheated your bike, and continued ride on a bike that was overheating mixing oil and coolant. Engines don't enjoy running on oil mixed with water, which caused you to have a motor failure. You said in an older post that your bike has nearly 50k miles on it. I would consider cutting losses and parting the bike out.
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May 13, 2016 17:08
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Where can I get a small front brake fluid reservoir? The "slim" ones on ebay are just the regular diameter but half the height. I want one that's like 1.5" across.
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May 13, 2016 22:46
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I bought a used 2008 SV650S last Friday (first bike). Been taking it to work everyday but tonight I was driving it around for practice/fun. Had fun, but as I was leaving 7-11 to head home I started the bike and it turned over one time and just died. Lights, instruments, starter silent. What's odd is occasionally there would be a tiny flicker of the neutral light or instrument panel, but just flickers and not a gradual dimming, so if its the battery its not like any other battery death I've ever seen. Also it was the longest I had ridden it in one sitting as well... which doesn't bode well to me. But it does have sucky HID's so maybe its because it's trying to start the ballasts and failing or something. Spent half an hour pushing that fucker up a hill and down trying to push start it. It felt so close so many times then *skiiiiid*. Then I had to pleasure of pushing it home another mile. I have no idea where my multimeter is of course, and I can't even take off the god drat seat cause it has torx nuts and I left all those drivers at work. But when I do get to that should I just go ahead and replace the battery you guys think? Autozone has them in stock apparently. I just sold my car today too (lol) so I have this little gap where all I had was this bike :X lol. I know so little motorcycle specific poo poo though I feel like im 15 again wondering what an alternator is edit: This just came to me, there was a cute kid smiling at the bike and he was super excited for me to get on and take off, and that's when it just farted and died. poor kid penus penus penus fucked around with this message at 05:29 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 05:26
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There's a gremlin in your engine. The only way to exorcise it is with the blood of the child who summoned it. You know what to do.
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May 14, 2016 05:59
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THE DOG HOUSE posted:I bought a used 2008 SV650S last Friday (first bike). Been taking it to work everyday but tonight I was driving it around for practice/fun. Had fun, but as I was leaving 7-11 to head home I started the bike and it turned over one time and just died. Lights, instruments, starter silent. What's odd is occasionally there would be a tiny flicker of the neutral light or instrument panel, but just flickers and not a gradual dimming, so if its the battery its not like any other battery death I've ever seen. Also it was the longest I had ridden it in one sitting as well... which doesn't bode well to me. But it does have sucky HID's so maybe its because it's trying to start the ballasts and failing or something. While you're at autozone buying a battery, spend an extra ten bucks and buy a multimeter. We don't have to help you if we teach you to help yourself!
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May 14, 2016 06:37
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THE DOG HOUSE posted:just died. When this happened to me, it was dirt in the lock cylinder which caused the connections to stay open even though I turned the key. A flush of WD40 sorted it. You should also check your fuses.
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May 14, 2016 09:17
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M42 posted:Where can I get a small front brake fluid reservoir? The "slim" ones on ebay are just the regular diameter but half the height. I want one that's like 1.5" across. Got em at work. Bug me tuesday and ill grab some photos and one for you.
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May 14, 2016 09:23
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THE DOG HOUSE posted:I bought a used 2008 SV650S last Friday (first bike). Been taking it to work everyday but tonight I was driving it around for practice/fun. Had fun, but as I was leaving 7-11 to head home I started the bike and it turned over one time and just died. Lights, instruments, starter silent. What's odd is occasionally there would be a tiny flicker of the neutral light or instrument panel, but just flickers and not a gradual dimming, so if its the battery its not like any other battery death I've ever seen. Also it was the longest I had ridden it in one sitting as well... which doesn't bode well to me. But it does have sucky HID's so maybe its because it's trying to start the ballasts and failing or something. Maybe you were already doing this, but next time you need to try and push start a bike, do it in 2nd gear, not first. Otherwise you'll keel over dead before you get it started. (one of those things that it seems everyone else already knew, but didn't think to mention when you get a bike, so you end up learning the hard way) Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 12:03 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 12:01
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cursedshitbox posted:Got em at work. Bug me tuesday and ill grab some photos and one for you. Will do! Thanks a ton!
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May 14, 2016 14:56
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Linedance posted:Maybe you were already doing this, but next time you need to try and push start a bike, do it in 2nd gear, not first. Otherwise you'll keel over dead before you get it started. Yeah I was trying 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. 3rd would actually get it almost running but never enough. Slavvy posted:While you're at autozone buying a battery, spend an extra ten bucks and buy a multimeter. We don't have to help you if we teach you to help yourself! Ill be finding mine hopefully. Now that im not drenched in sweat and thinking clearly im going to find the volt meter and get a tender instead first if thats the issue Ola posted:When this happened to me, it was dirt in the lock cylinder which caused the connections to stay open even though I turned the key. A flush of WD40 sorted it. You should also check your fuses. this is interesting, I will flush it out just in case
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May 14, 2016 18:10
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I'm glad we're on battery talk. Like an idiot I left the lights on my bike on all night and completely discharged the battery. Is it safe to recharge and reuse the same battery or should I go and buy a new one?
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May 14, 2016 18:57
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Toss it and get a new one. Before you throw it away make sure to puncture the case to drain the fluid.
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May 14, 2016 19:23
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Should be. When I drained the sealed lead acid battery on my cbf I just bump started it and went for a long ride, once it was back up it held charge fine.astrollinthepork posted:Toss it and get a new one. Before you throw it away make sure to puncture the case to drain the fluid. Haha wow no
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May 14, 2016 19:23
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astrollinthepork posted:Toss it and get a new one. Before you throw it away make sure to puncture the case to drain the fluid. Should I drain the fluid into my front lawn so it doesn't go to the ocean? Renaissance Robot posted:Should be. When I drained the sealed lead acid battery on my cbf I just bump started it and went for a long ride, once it was back up it held charge fine. Thanks.
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May 14, 2016 19:27
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Phrasing posted:I'm glad we're on battery talk. I don't know how ethical this is but if the battery's under warranty you might be able to just go get a new one fo free
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May 14, 2016 19:44
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Phrasing posted:I'm glad we're on battery talk. With my charger/tender that supports 'rejuvenating' batteries I've recovered a similarly drained battery, works fine 6 months later.
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May 15, 2016 00:34
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Man I pulled the battery out and it was like an unlabeled AGM battery with MADE IN CHINA on it. it was bad
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May 15, 2016 03:08
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I'm trying to decide on what engine to pick up for my bike. It's the weekend so the eBay listings I'm eyeing are closed, and the shop is closed until Tuesday so I can't confer with them. 2008, looks clean, no miles listed. Definitely wanna know before I would get it. Listing ends Friday and it's make an offer, might be able to scrape some $$ off? 2005, 29k miles, video of it running and riding it up and down the street I really like this one, seems like it was taken care of more by the shop and the miles and running. Then there's a listing on CL for a 2004 mechanics special 51500 miles, claimed cam chain tensioner need replacing If I'm swapping engines anyways, they could just pull the tensioner from my old engine if it's OK and throw it on this engine before putting it in. Then I have a whole bike to reclaim some parts from for my bike and part out the rest. I'm thinking I can maybe offer the guy $1200, it's been listed for a month already. Edit: more labor costs to pull that engine out though. I'm leaning towards the bare engines, just for less work and initial costs. What does CA think? Schroeder91 fucked around with this message at 16:17 on May 15, 2016 |
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May 15, 2016 16:10
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The mechanic in me appreciates it when the hoses for the bike are blocked off. It only takes a few minutes to do but it prevents a lot of annoying issues. I'd buy that one. Don't buy another bike to part out unless you have lots of time to deal with idiotic questions and shipping things. Especially don't buy one that doesn't have the parts you need in good condition 
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May 15, 2016 16:25
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A MIRACLE posted:I don't know how ethical this is but if the battery's under warranty you might be able to just go get a new one fo free HAHAHAHAHA look at this guy talking about battery ethics. http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/09/science/earth/recycled-battery-lead-puts-mexicans-in-danger.html?_r=0
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May 15, 2016 16:38
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I have the time but lack of motivation to work outside in 100° and I didn't even consider having to talk to people to part it out. And yeah I like that everything was sealed up, and it's probably the engine I'm gonna go for. The other one is tempting if the miles aren't much higher (probably are) because it's cheaper and I could probably make an offer for even cheaper.
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May 15, 2016 16:38
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Z3n posted:The mechanic in me appreciates it when the hoses for the bike are blocked off. It only takes a few minutes to do but it prevents a lot of annoying issues. I'd buy that one. Yeah thats the mill you should get. someone cared enough to seal it up.
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May 15, 2016 19:57
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Where do most of you folks put you foot controls? (apologies in advance if this is a  topic)I started with my rear brake quite high, and have recently brought it down until I can bring my toe forward off the peg and press with a slight toe lift. I feel like I could drop it a bit more to allow me to rest arch-on-pegs (peg up against the heel block) and have my foot in a completely neutral position covering the rear brake, but with how angled my feet are "in neutral" I'm concerned that if I find myself trailbraking through a right turn I'm going to start dragging toes. I usually ride toe-on-pegs, because I feel like I get much better feedback, I can get my legs in the tank grooves, and I get more weight on the pegs and off my butt, but there's that half-second of reaction time to get my foot on the pedal if something were to go south in a hurry. If I ride arch-on-pegs all of the above is opposite (no tank grooves, less feedback, more butt weight) but I do gain the benefit of having the rear brake covered at all times. The shifter side isn't really that much of an issue, I set it so that in neutral- heel-to-peg position the knob is dead center, so I either ride slightly splayed while heel-to-peg or toe-to-peg, in which case the shifter is neutral to my natural ankle angle and I can easily position to shift either way. I probably just need a taller bike/seat, (I could flat-foot this bike barefooted with like a 160-degree knee angle) but that comes with higher CoG and a lower relative bar height (bar height is not of any huge concern, my core is pretty good thanks to several backroad century days and weekday commuting), and the fact that the most rise I might get out of a seat is about an inch (without going custom, which is an option). For the record I'm 6'4" with a 32-34" inseam, on an '08 Ninja500R. I apologize for spamming  questions at this thread but it seems the Internet has wildly varying opinions without all that much grounding in logic.
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 04:33 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 04:24
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Why the gently caress do you need the rear to be covered 24/7? Are you afraid of looping the bike every time you touch the throttle?  just keep your toes on the pegs until you need them.And you don't need a taller seat.
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May 16, 2016 14:07
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