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Yeah. Putting the waterblock on my CPU scared the poo poo out of me, despite alternating screws, simply on account of the highly unpleasant noises it made when I did it. Everything works fine though, so hooray for that.
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May 16, 2016 20:41
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Ninkobei posted:A gentle reminder to new computer builders to be sure to tighten their cpu cooler slowly, alternating one turn with each screw. A friend of mine decided he could put only two screws in at once and tighten them before putting the other two on. It bent/warped the edges of his skylake chip which seems to have caused some sort of motherboard short circuit, as well as permanently damaging the chip. This reminds me of working with Coppermine Pentium 3s and Athlon XPs, which had the bare processor die touching the heatsink instead of a heatspreader in between - I think mobile chips are still like this, since it gives you a thinner package overall. This combines with socket design that has you bending a big steel lever across the HSF to hold it on, almost certainly putting more pressure on one side or corner of the chip than the others. A bit too much force in the wrong place and you could actually crack the chip, killing it thoroughly and permanently. Even with irritating pushpin stock coolers and fragile LGA sockets, we've come a long way. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 21:57 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 21:54
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If all goes well I should be ordering the rest of the parts to put my shiny new 6600K into in 2-3 weeks and I am utterly terrified of installing the processor and cooler, even though I know exactly how to do it.
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May 16, 2016 22:08
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I bought a Noctua D15S. This thing blots out the sky and puts even the original xbox and gaben to shame. It's screaming bad idea to me since it's like attaching a dumbell to the side of the motherboard, but I got a good deal and it has good reviews 
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May 16, 2016 22:10
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HMS Boromir posted:If all goes well I should be ordering the rest of the parts to put my shiny new 6600K into in 2-3 weeks and I am utterly terrified of installing the processor and cooler, even though I know exactly how to do it. I touched a processor for the first time in over a decade 6 months ago and didn't gently caress it up, you'll be fine.
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May 16, 2016 22:11
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Ninkobei posted:A gentle reminder to new computer builders to be sure to tighten their cpu cooler slowly, alternating one turn with each screw. A friend of mine decided he could put only two screws in at once and tighten them before putting the other two on. It bent/warped the edges of his skylake chip which seems to have caused some sort of motherboard short circuit, as well as permanently damaging the chip. Do you have a picture of what his CPU looked like afterwards?
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May 16, 2016 22:15
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Oh, that reminds me actually. The CPU cooler I'm getting recommends, of all things, applying a strip of thermal paste onto each of its heatpipes rather than the usual pea or thin line on the CPU heat spreader. Like so: Is there actually an important reason they might recommend doing it that way? It seems like kind of a hassle.
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May 16, 2016 22:19
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HMS Boromir posted:Oh, that reminds me actually. The CPU cooler I'm getting recommends, of all things, applying a strip of thermal paste onto each of its heatpipes rather than the usual pea or thin line on the CPU heat spreader. Like so: Because you can create air bubbles.
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May 16, 2016 22:22
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HMS Boromir posted:Oh, that reminds me actually. The CPU cooler I'm getting recommends, of all things, applying a strip of thermal paste onto each of its heatpipes rather than the usual pea or thin line on the CPU heat spreader. Like so: There's gaps between the pipes, so if you don't put it on each pipe it might ooze out them rather than getting pushed to the next pipe.
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May 16, 2016 22:30
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Righto. I'll follow their directions then.
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May 16, 2016 22:32
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fozzy fosbourne posted:I bought a Noctua D15S. This thing blots out the sky and puts even the original xbox and gaben to shame. It's screaming bad idea to me since it's like attaching a dumbell to the side of the motherboard, but I got a good deal and it has good reviews The Noctua mounting system is really good and secure. I just installed the regular D15 and it's pretty awesome. Not difficult to install like other large coolers I've used, and doesn't feel like it's going anywhere!  Also - on my mobo (Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5), I can still access the m.2 and RAM slots no problem (for the latter I do have to detach the 2nd fan, but that's no big deal!). I also just managed to get a Firewire card in the top PCIe slot (1x), though I did put some electrical tape to cover the exposed contacts on the top of the card to be safe. The metal on the heatsink JUST misses the card, but it is pretty close. admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 22:56 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 22:48
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:Do you have a picture of what his CPU looked like afterwards? he was able to bend it back to normal with his fingers to make it look like nothing had happened at all. i didnt think to snap a picture, but this interweb picture is pretty accurate. Lots of people do it I guess 
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May 16, 2016 23:00
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Ninkobei posted:he was able to bend it back to normal with his fingers to make it look like nothing had happened at all. i didnt think to snap a picture, but this interweb picture is pretty accurate. Lots of people do it I guess Wow, that's a good PSA. I'm not sure if I did the screws on mine evenly or not... could have easily been me 
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May 16, 2016 23:03
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admiraldennis posted:Wow, that's a good PSA.  Here's the story - Friend was playing a new cpu-intensive game for about 15-20 minutes on his skylake pc that he built 5-6 months prior, and it crashed on him. Trying to reboot it kept coming up with errors, starting up and then shutting down shortly after, maybe 5-10 seconds. I think the mobo error codes was 67, which is CPU DXE Initialization failure - the key word being CPU. He figures it is the PSU, replaces it and has the same problem. He then re-seats the CPU - this is important and probably cost him a $200 motherboard. Afterwards the motherboard barely turns on and just makes a clicking noise, giving maybe quarter power to the two cpu fans. At this point said friend calls me so I run over to help him out. My first thought was that the outlet didn't have enough power so we tried a different one . After resetting CMOS a bunch I decided it had to be the motherboard. While replacing the motherboard I notice that the chip had bent corners, but since they were easily bent back we decide to give it a shot in the new motherboard. There was also a tiny blotch of thermal paste on the underside, which I suspect landed on there while he was re-seating the CPU and is the cause of the short out of the original motherboard. Everything is cleaned and seated, but the motherboard shoots out the same code 67 as before, proving the reverse-bending to be unsuccessful. Back to microcenter, new CPU acquired, installed and everything is fine again. After reading up on how CPU heatsinks are generally the cause of this problem I asked him if he used more than one turn on a screw before moving to the next one. To which he replied "probably." So the best guess I have is that he was flustered with issue and just wasn't paying close enough attention when trying to seat the CPU. He works with heavy equipment all day so I can see how his muscle-memory might be accustomed to something less fragile. I can't say for sure what caused his PC to shut down in the first place. What I think is that he had the CPU tightened too tight, or unevenly and the heat produced from his gaming session weakened the chip just enough for the pressure to warp the edges. He uses this cooler or something really similar to it - dual fans. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181011 Setset fucked around with this message at 01:36 on May 17, 2016 |
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May 17, 2016 01:29
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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.49 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock Z87M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: Corsair XMS 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($31.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Sandisk Extreme 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($188.99) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($152.97 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX US) Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 62205ANHMWDTX1 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($59.50 @ Amazon) I built this rig in June of 2013 and it's been treating me very nice. It plays games well, and takes care of my daily work stuff. Three years later, I'm trying to play the new DooM and I'm about ready to update again. Should my priority be getting some more ram? Should I get a second GTX 760 for SLI mode, or a totally new video card? This forbes article is what pushed me to buy this card in the first place, saying with SLI it outperformed a GTX Titan. http://www.forbes.com/sites/jasonev...n/#3f5c07f03f62 I don't game at 1440p.
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May 17, 2016 01:35
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DarkSun6890 posted:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant gently caress no never SLI. Wait a month for the market to stabilize and pick up a used 980ti for ~300 or nap a new 1070 for $400. Or a grab a 970 for like $200 or so, which trades blows with dual 760s with extra VRAM and none of SLI's terribleness. For reference I upgraded from dual 760s to a 970 two years ago.
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May 17, 2016 01:47
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Cat Army 
DarkSun6890 posted:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Grab both another 8GB stick of DDR3 for dual channel mode since memory bandwidth matters these days and like The Iron Rose said a new GPU, a GTX 1070, one of AMD's new Polaris cards depending on how those end up looking or a used 980Ti on the cheap since tons are going up on the used market with the imminent release of the GTX 1080 on May 27th.
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May 17, 2016 03:13
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Is the 1070/1080 going to be significantly better than the 970? I don't really understand all the technical jargon enough to fully grasp it. Though I imagine even if it is, a 1070 probably won't be that much of an improvement over a 970 for 1080p gaming, right?
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May 17, 2016 03:15
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Ryuga Death posted:Is the 1070/1080 going to be significantly better than the 970? I don't really understand all the technical jargon enough to fully grasp it. Though I imagine even if it is, a 1070 probably won't be that much of an improvement over a 970 for 1080p gaming, right? Realistically no. I mean most games should be pegged to 60FPS, but if you ever want to get a faster or bigger monitor (you do, you just don't know it yet), you should wait. Also, games will get more demanding over time. The smart play is to either wait and buy a 1070 when it comes out, or wait and buy a cheap 970 when the 1070 comes out.
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May 17, 2016 03:41
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Ryuga Death posted:Is the 1070/1080 going to be significantly better than the 970? I don't really understand all the technical jargon enough to fully grasp it. Though I imagine even if it is, a 1070 probably won't be that much of an improvement over a 970 for 1080p gaming, right? Gunna disagree with Vulgar and stupid and say that a 1070 will comfortably max out 1080p on ultra at 60 fps. By contrast, the 970 actually struggles a fair bit in triple A games, generally hovering around 45-55 FPS on higher settings. It's a great card for the price, but I wouldn't say a 1070 for under $400 is overkill maxing out 1080p. A 1080 probably would be however, but even then DSR is a thing that exists.
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May 17, 2016 04:50
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I read the OP where it said new graphics cards are coming out soon. Quick questions: 1.) Presumably the price of current gen cards will drop like a rock (just assuming - let me know if this is a bad assumption). Is the difference between next-gen and current gen going to be such a big jump that it'd be foolish to buy a current gen card, regardless of the price difference? My total PC budget is $800-1000, if that affects your answer. 2.) How firm is that June/July target date? I won't have the time to build anything until second week of June, so I wouldn't mind waiting till June or July, but if the release dates are likely to slip, I don't know if I would want to wait till October or November. Thanks in advance!
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May 17, 2016 05:02
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Ryuga Death posted:Is the 1070/1080 going to be significantly better than the 970? I don't really understand all the technical jargon enough to fully grasp it. Though I imagine even if it is, a 1070 probably won't be that much of an improvement over a 970 for 1080p gaming, right? New GPU launches are the big depreciation event of the year. It's making the same price give you more and the same performance cost less. This is usually quite noticeable (30+% reduction in price paid for a level of performance). Waiting two years for the same cards won't make as big a difference, the next big drop is going to be at the end of those two years when the new new hotness drops. MagusofStars posted:I read the OP where it said new graphics cards are coming out soon. Quick questions: They've announced early June for the NV cards at least. There's some worry that supply will be short for a while and they'll cost more, but if it takes till August it'd be a huge upset. AMD's been a bit less talkative, but should be saying something soon. And yes, the prices have dropped like a rock and will likely drop a bit more. I still wouldn't buy current gen, AMD's chips are stale as hell, and NV's last gen tends to drop off over time compared to their current gen (and architectural trends have kept moving for them so it will likely continue). It was a toss-up between the 780 Ti and 970 when the 970 dropped, and now it's such an exception that it's commented on.
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May 17, 2016 05:22
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MagusofStars posted:I read the OP where it said new graphics cards are coming out soon. Quick questions: June/July would be a good target for a system based around a GTX 1070, I think you should be able to afford a 1070 depending on what parts you need. That leads to the most important question: What all do you need? Just the computer itself? The computer and a monitor/mouse/keyboard? Here is a tentative system spec: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI H170A PC Mate ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Micro Center) Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($31.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($118.90 @ Amazon) Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.95 @ Directron) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($62.99 @ NCIX US) Video Card: GTX 1070 ($379.99) Total: $933.69 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-17 00:37 EDT-0400 I priced it to give you some headroom in case the GTX 1070 ends up being a bit more expensive. Also you should not commit to the 1070 just yet, depending on how AMD's Polaris cards end up looking price/performance-wise those might end up being the better deal overall.
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May 17, 2016 05:43
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I think it's very likely that brand choice this time around is simply going to be a matter of how much performance you're willing to budget for, and it'd take a hell of a job by AMD to give enough performance for a budget that can fit $400+ to drop to Polaris 10's price point. Maybe they will kill it and do something like 10% less performance for 30% price, but I kind of doubt it with what they seem to be doing to hit their price points.
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May 17, 2016 05:50
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Has anyone ever been able to get a good gaming PC into an actually slim mini tower case? I just upgraded my processor and got a motherboard with only one slot for a graphics card since I'll never do crossfire/SLI poo poo and figured that opens up a lot of space inside. The dudes at Fry's kept telling me that you can't have a gaming PC with a small case, no exceptions. I think people assume "gaming PC" means I do crossfire/SLI and need 8 USB ports and a bunch of loving LED lights and a multi-bay RAID setup. All I'll have is a 1000-series Nvidia graphics card with my brand new i5 6600k CPU and my single SSD. It seems doable to have those things in a console-looking case, no?
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May 17, 2016 06:12
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WHAT A GOOD DOG posted:Has anyone ever been able to get a good gaming PC into an actually slim mini tower case? I just upgraded my processor and got a motherboard with only one slot for a graphics card since I'll never do crossfire/SLI poo poo and figured that opens up a lot of space inside. The dudes at Fry's kept telling me that you can't have a gaming PC with a small case, no exceptions. It's possible but you can't really overclock your CPU since there isn't enough room for a decent CPU cooler in the thin mITX cases, however with something like a Thermaltake Core V1 it's very possible.
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May 17, 2016 06:40
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WHAT A GOOD DOG posted:Has anyone ever been able to get a good gaming PC into an actually slim mini tower case? I just upgraded my processor and got a motherboard with only one slot for a graphics card since I'll never do crossfire/SLI poo poo and figured that opens up a lot of space inside. The dudes at Fry's kept telling me that you can't have a gaming PC with a small case, no exceptions. You can do it, but fitting a cooler will be a pain. If you want to use a 120MM closed loop water cooler, you probably do, I'd recommend the SG13B. It fits up to a 10.5" card (1070/1080 will be fine), and if you use a SFX power supply, it should be pretty easy to fit the CLC in just fine. Here's a video of Linus putting a Titan X, a big ATX PSU, a 120MM CLC, and an 18-core XEON into said case. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjDJNwAANwA However, I don't know if this qualifies as a slim mini tower to you. It is only 10.5 liters, which is small, but its perhaps not the dimensions you want. You could go with something like a Raven RVZ02 or Node 202, 12L and 10L respectively but you won't have any spaces for additional fans if you use a full sized graphics, so closed loops are out. You'll be limited to low profile coolers. You may be able to fit one of the 120MM or 140MM low profile coolers in, but you need to check compatibility against your RAM height and motherboard. Usually if you google the cooler and motherboard, some Overclockers/other building forums posts will come up and you might be able to see what others have done. You may also need to switch the fans on said 120/140MM low profile coolers to a slim one as well. It's doable, will take research and you may not get huge overclocks at satisfactory temperatures. You may also have to do some trial and error yourself, so if something is questionable, order it from Amazon or get Newegg Premier. What I'm saying is: Do it. I think its awesome.
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May 17, 2016 06:52
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VulgarandStupid posted:What I'm saying is: Do it. I think its awesome. I guess if I'm not looking to overclock or anything this isn't infeasible? gently caress yes.
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May 17, 2016 07:03
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WHAT A GOOD DOG posted:I guess if I'm not looking to overclock or anything this isn't infeasible? gently caress yes. Yeah, sure, but why get a 6600k then? Anyway, since you got a 6600k you'll need a CPU cooler, I'd recommend the Cryorig C7, it's tiny and pretty cheap, you might even be able to do a small OC as long as you don't touch the voltage.
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May 17, 2016 07:56
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The Iron Rose posted:Gunna disagree with Vulgar and stupid and say that a 1070 will comfortably max out 1080p on ultra at 60 fps. By contrast, the 970 actually struggles a fair bit in triple A games, generally hovering around 45-55 FPS on higher settings. Also for shits and giggles I tried Halo: Combat evolved without V-sync on. I giggled a little bit about getting 2500+ fps, though the coil whine was a bit excessive.
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May 17, 2016 08:18
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LogicalFallacy posted:Huh. I must've lucked out with my card then. I ran Bioshock Infinite's benchmark with all settings maxed, and my average fps was around 100. The lowest I saw was 40, and for whatever reason that was while I still had a blank screen right at the start. I'm also pretty sure I peaked at 130. The only game I've played that I haven't maxed everything on is Shadow of Mordor, and that's simply because one setting specifically recommends at least 6GB of VRAM to be maxed. Bioshock Infinite is an older game at this point, stuff like TW3 will bring the 970 down to 45-55 FPS on ultra@1080p.
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May 17, 2016 08:43
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Bioshock Infinite is an older game at this point, stuff like TW3 will bring the 970 down to 45-55 FPS on ultra@1080p. Just turn off hairworks man... I'm pretty sure I ran TW3 just fine on my 970 at 2560x1440 with hairworks turned off.
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May 17, 2016 08:47
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VulgarandStupid posted:Just turn off hairworks man... I'm pretty sure I ran TW3 just fine on my 970 at 2560x1440 with hairworks turned off. 45-55 FPS is what I get in TW3 with Hairworks turned off but everything else maxed out. I will note that my 970 doesn't OC for poo poo so with a better one you might see much better FPS. I do see 60 in less taxing scenarios but I consider any drop below 60 to be pretty much unacceptable.
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May 17, 2016 09:26
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WHAT A GOOD DOG posted:Has anyone ever been able to get a good gaming PC into an actually slim mini tower case? I just upgraded my processor and got a motherboard with only one slot for a graphics card since I'll never do crossfire/SLI poo poo and figured that opens up a lot of space inside. The dudes at Fry's kept telling me that you can't have a gaming PC with a small case, no exceptions. I was inspired by a previous poster to get a Fractal Design Nano S for my next build. Looks good and just big enough for my PSU / CPU cooler / future 1080gtx. Although I don't really think you could go any smaller with a card like the 1080 unless you get into some crazy custom made case shenanigans or something? here is a pic of the nano next to the R5 
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May 17, 2016 10:37
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Mikojan posted:I was inspired by a previous poster to get a Fractal Design Nano S for my next build. Nah, you can definitely go smaller just not with overclocking the CPU too. For instance the Fractal Design Node 202.
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May 17, 2016 10:43
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Heya guys, posted before in this thread and decided to take your combined advice and start putting together a system myself. However I am having some difficulty as the parts are arriving at different times :The case( should be arriving Thursday), the keyboard (should be arriving today or tomorrow), the motherboard (Thursday again) and the DVDRW Drive, which is not even predicted to arrive at any point. Now I would not be too worried about the later as I can merely add it on to my system once I have got it all functioning. But for the fact that the Microsoft install thing has arrived and it appears to be on a disk. Any advice? Could I transfer it to a USB if neccesary? And can my ipod be used as a USB if the worst comes to it.
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May 17, 2016 13:51
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Josef bugman posted:Heya guys, posted before in this thread and decided to take your combined advice and start putting together a system myself. However I am having some difficulty as the parts are arriving at different times :The case( should be arriving Thursday), You should be able to buy a USB flash drive from a local store for very cheap, download the Windows 10 media creation tool and turn the USB stick into a bootable installation media. I dunno about the ipod but I think it is a bad idea when you should be able to get a USB flash drive for like $5-$10, especially since the process of turning the USB stick into installation media requires that the drive be formatted, i.e. erased.
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May 17, 2016 14:01
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:You should be able to buy a USB flash drive from a local store for very cheap, download the Windows 10 media creation tool and turn the USB stick into a bootable installation media. I dunno about the ipod but I think it is a bad idea when you should be able to get a USB flash drive for like $5-$10, especially since the process of turning the USB stick into installation media requires that the drive be formatted, i.e. erased. I'd expect the way the iPod works and exposes its file system would make it tricky to use as a boot drive.
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May 17, 2016 14:13
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:You should be able to buy a USB flash drive from a local store for very cheap, download the Windows 10 media creation tool and turn the USB stick into a bootable installation media. I dunno about the ipod but I think it is a bad idea when you should be able to get a USB flash drive for like $5-$10, especially since the process of turning the USB stick into installation media requires that the drive be formatted, i.e. erased. Would it invalidate the 70 or so pounds I spent on the OS because if it is I am going to cry.
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May 17, 2016 14:21
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Josef bugman posted:Would it invalidate the 70 or so pounds I spent on the OS because if it is I am going to cry. Not if you bought the OS for the key. If you just bought it for the media then yes, you can download an image for free so that's kind of a waste.
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May 17, 2016 14:52
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