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I recommend against buying expensive brushes until you know how to make cheap brushes last a while, not getting paint in the ferrule, using brush soap, etc.. I don't use WN7's because I have used them in the past and I still hosed them up. Instead I've landed on some brushes that have such a large belly to them that they are hard to gently caress up.
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May 16, 2016 20:15
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Floppychop posted:I run into problems like this with cheap brushes.
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May 16, 2016 20:22
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Floppychop posted:I run into problems like this with cheap brushes. 2, 1, 0. That's really all you need imo. I've done more work using my 1 to highlight than the 0, and much more than the 00, due to the amount of time I get to work before the paint dries. I started working on one of my ships again and I'm running out of real love for this one despite enjoying painting the lava pattern initially. I tried doing bone with green smoke haze but that seemed too dull so I just redid with straight green. What color should the eyes(nose)/windows be? Yellow? I'll see if I still have enough inspiration to do the rest of the ship but I've gotten bored with it. 
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May 16, 2016 20:31
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The green bit looks like a penis with the head drawn on like that.
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May 16, 2016 20:42
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sassassin posted:The green bit looks like a penis with the head drawn on like that. Nice, that actually makes me want to paint it again. Supposed to be more like a komodo skull, but I started drawing a rib area and put it all the way up to its neck. Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 20:48 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 20:45
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I'd go with a solid yellow color and maybe a black stripe through it. The effect you got is cool, but its a bit busy. Needs some blocky color somewhere to balance it out.
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May 16, 2016 20:47
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BULBASAUR posted:I'd go with a solid yellow color and maybe a black stripe through it. The effect you got is cool, but its a bit busy. Needs some blocky color somewhere to balance it out.
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May 16, 2016 21:04
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Foolster41 posted:Yeah, I like painting, but I admit I can get a bit impatient. Also the one big disadvantage of bones figures is they tend to have white spots appear in gaps after being painted, and it seems to take lots of repainting to get rid of the white spots I've been painting a lot Bones lately, and I have a lot of luck with Velejo Surface primer. It comes in a variety of colors, you might want to try grey or black when you're starting out. It's harder to cover with bright colors, but you won't have any white spots showing through if you don't manage to get full coverage. Just brush it on straight out of the bottle on the whole mini and let it dry, then paint over it.
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May 16, 2016 21:04
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Oh man, Vallejo Surface Primer through an Airbrush has been a revelation for me. The control I can achieve VS a rattle can means I can get a squad done in one go, not having to spray the front, wait, spray the side, wait, change to the front, wait. It's great!
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May 16, 2016 22:47
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HELP! I've been working on my Ret after finally deciding on a color scheme and just cannot pick a basing scheme.  
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May 17, 2016 01:41
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Snow based would be good with that scheme.
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May 17, 2016 01:54
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I'd say cobblestones. The way those characters are painted doesn't make them look like they're in a freezing climate.
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May 17, 2016 02:53
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I was considering painting some Retribution stuff in basically the exact same scheme, inspired by how good the black studio paintjob looks on Moros compared to the standard white. Also because painting a primarily white army is super daunting even when compared to trying to properly shade black. With the primary color being black alongside the really standout bright turquoise veins and gems I was planning on doing a cracked earth and rubble base with a really stark and bright orange color scheme to play off of that eye-catching blue and brighten up the whole thing. Also fits thematically with Ret since they accidentally nuked their homeland and stuff.
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May 17, 2016 03:52
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Yeast posted:Oh man, Vallejo Surface Primer through an Airbrush has been a revelation for me. Why were you waiting between angles?
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May 17, 2016 10:26
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I've been playing about with some editing to get my photos to look closer to the real thing. How does this mini look to you guys? Anything wrong with the image quality on anyone elses monitor? Edit: I am beginning to regret leaving this guys with a gloss finish. Looks great in your hand, does not photo well. Double edit: Just scene these pics on a different monitor and it looks like Im doing photography on the SURFACE OF THE SUN. Oh dear, I knew it might look different across screens but not THAT different. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 23:12 on May 17, 2016 |
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May 17, 2016 14:18
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Too much glare, try diffusing the light a bit more.
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May 17, 2016 15:17
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Yeah, too much glare. Is vallejo white brush-on primer good? I've only ever used the black one.
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May 17, 2016 15:21
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Its fine, but shake the poo poo out of it first I prefer the grey but they are very similar
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May 17, 2016 15:43
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I use white, it's great. But yeah you gotta shake it well.
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May 17, 2016 16:25
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Lethemonster posted:I've been playing about with some editing to get my photos to look closer to the real thing. How does this mini look to you guys? Anything wrong with the image quality on anyone elses monitor? You could try a mix with satin varnish over the gloss, that should leave you with a nice semi-gloss finish. Or just use a straight satin varnish. I've been experimenting lately with mixing Liquitex matte and satin varnishes in different proportions when I'm going for a flatter finish; maybe try 2:1 satin to gloss? Also, what are you using for a light box? You might want to toss a filter over your lamps to diffuse the light a bit and cut down on the glare from bare bulbs. (Unless you're already doing that. Also, I haven't been doing that and I get glare for days in my pics. I guess I'm saying I may not be a good source of advice.) e: fixed typo ("Liquitex" not "liquored," wish I was the latter)
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May 17, 2016 16:57
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Bucnasti posted:I use white, it's great. But yeah you gotta shake it well. Skarsnik posted:Its fine, but shake the poo poo out of it first Sweet. I'm going to paint this on a spaceship. RIP my eyes 
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May 17, 2016 18:38
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Hahaha, I rode on one of those from Dumaguete to Bahura. Not quite as colorful as that one, but mostly because of the rust. It was janky as gently caress, but it got us where we were going.
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May 17, 2016 19:58
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So for my birthday I got a set of W&N Series 7 round brushes, and a tub of the Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver. These brushes are night and day compared to my old cheap rear end brushes, and this brush soap is amazing.
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May 18, 2016 04:03
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Does anyone have recommendations for making bricks for basing? I'm thinking both of making some wall segments, but I'll also need damaged and broken bricks. Warmachine scale.
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May 18, 2016 04:46
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Buy an artist's pastel and break off a few pieces? They're like a dollar each and they break up in a similar way to how a brick would.
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May 18, 2016 05:07
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You could buy the stuff to make bricks or just buy a bag of bricks. Secret Weapon has various types in various scales (commonly 1:35 or 1:48) here and here.
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May 18, 2016 05:10
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Karnegal posted:Does anyone have recommendations for making bricks for basing? I'm thinking both of making some wall segments, but I'll also need damaged and broken bricks. Warmachine scale. http://pin.it/HxBwNFk Alternatively you could buy the juwela 1:35 bricks from secret weapon.
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May 18, 2016 05:15
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I would be remiss if I didn't mention Hirst Arts here.
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May 18, 2016 06:49
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luckymodel.com sells silicone molds for pavers at 6 bucks each. Hell if you're ok with a hex or square pattern you can just buy a silicone trivet/potholder off amazon with a grid molded into it.
signalnoise fucked around with this message at 08:26 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 08:18
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Does anyone have a guide to brush care? My brushes last for a very short time, which makes me reluctant to buy good ones.
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May 18, 2016 12:41
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Karnegal posted:Does anyone have recommendations for making bricks for basing? I'm thinking both of making some wall segments, but I'll also need damaged and broken bricks. Warmachine scale. I'm intending to do something similar for terrain. While poking around at a distant hobby store, I picked up a box of this: https://www.google.com/search?q=tam...S589&gws_rd=ssl I intend to go to the nearby model train store and buy some plastic extrusions of a similar size for lose bricks whenever I get inspired to actually do it. Edit: Also, if you're just looking for like a brick road type thing, I have definitely seen vacuum formed sheets, which could be cut to size. Iron Crowned fucked around with this message at 12:56 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 12:54
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Geisladisk posted:Does anyone have a guide to brush care? My brushes last for a very short time, which makes me reluctant to buy good ones. The OP has you covered. Just go to http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3705692&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1#post442594505 and scroll up to get right to it.
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May 18, 2016 13:00
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I've been painting up some of my first 28mm models in 12 or so years and I love the Forgeworld MKIII armour so decided to do some Imperial Fists. I've been posting in the scale models thread but here's a bit of a painting log to where I am now. Assembled and primed.    Preshaded with wash   Washed and glazed with yellow   Starting the other colours and the weapon hands.  
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May 18, 2016 13:10
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Geisladisk posted:Does anyone have a guide to brush care? My brushes last for a very short time, which makes me reluctant to buy good ones. Rinse out your brush regularly so paint doesn't get a chance to dry and ruin it. Not just between different colours, but every few minutes.
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May 18, 2016 13:21
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Also with regards to brushes I would say unless you're just starting out then don't hesitate to pull the trigger on a couple of nicer brushes. My routine for the few years I've been painting stuff was to just chew through one of those value packs of five or six synthetic watercolor brushes every couple months, because without fail they would all very quickly fray or develop those annoying little hooked tips in spite of very average benign use and regular cleaning with brush soap. Back around Christmas I bought three of the ~$15 W&N individual brushes on a whim and it's like night and day compared to the cheapo packs. Exact same cleaning methods have kept those things in near perfect condition.
Gumdrop Larry fucked around with this message at 14:00 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 13:21
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Geisladisk posted:Does anyone have a guide to brush care? My brushes last for a very short time, which makes me reluctant to buy good ones. Cheap brushes also don't last as long due to their cheap construction. Even if you maintain them, they won't last as long as a good brush. Look at it this way - if you buy that Coby MP3 player on Black Friday for $15, no matter how well you take care of it, you expect it to fail soon because, intrinsically, it's just not well made. Spend a few extra bucks and you'll get something that you won't have to keep replacing. I don't get the reluctance to spend $10-$15 on a brush - most of us routinely spend $15 and up on a single model, $3-$4 on a bottle of paint, etc. A better brush will not only last longer, it will help make painting less of a frustrating experience!
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May 18, 2016 13:53
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berzerkmonkey posted:I don't get the reluctance to spend $10-$15 on a brush - most of us routinely spend $15 and up on a single model, $3-$4 on a bottle of paint, etc. A better brush will not only last longer, it will help make painting less of a frustrating experience!  you'll actually get to use that brush often instead of having it sit in your painting queue for years.
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May 18, 2016 14:49
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lol if you don't have a queue of brushes waiting to be used.
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May 18, 2016 15:11
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sassassin posted:lol if you don't have a queue of brushes waiting to be used. I have a couple extra WN 0s and 1s and I rotate through them equally.
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May 18, 2016 15:24
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berzerkmonkey posted:I don't get the reluctance to spend $10-$15 on a brush - most of us routinely spend $15 and up on a single model, $3-$4 on a bottle of paint, etc. A better brush will not only last longer, it will help make painting less of a frustrating experience! I think it's because you can gently caress up a brush easily, loving up a model or a pot of paint beyond the point of salvation is much harder to do. People don't trust themselves to not gently caress up the brush.
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May 18, 2016 15:43
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