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big_g posted:
These look great. Please keep posting updates of them as you progress!
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May 18, 2016 16:05
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theroachman posted:loving up a model or a pot of paint beyond the point of salvation is much harder to do I've done both, probably more often than I hosed up a brush.
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May 18, 2016 18:08
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CommissarRed posted:These look great. Please keep posting updates of them as you progress!  big_g posted:I've been painting up some of my first 28mm models in 12 or so years and I love the Forgeworld MKIII armour so decided to do some Imperial Fists.
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May 18, 2016 19:02
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berzerkmonkey posted:
With washes. This is the procedure I took for the yellow. I primed in Army Painted Skeleton primer out of the rattle can, then preshaded with thinned Agrax Earthsahed, highlighted/lined with Dorn Yellow, washed all over with Casandora Yellow and final glaze again all over with Lamenters Yellow.
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May 18, 2016 20:05
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big_g posted:With washes. This is the procedure I took for the yellow. Neat! Next time* I have a large number of yellow-clad minis to paint, I might try a similar method to do a zenithal preshading, using dark brown instead on black for the base layer. Thanks for the paints list! * Like there's been a first time. It takes me forever to paint *one* model.
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May 18, 2016 20:55
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big_g posted:I've been painting up some of my first 28mm models in 12 or so years and I love the Forgeworld MKIII armour so decided to do some Imperial Fists. These look great. Def post pix when you're done!
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May 18, 2016 21:14
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Does anyone have a specific paint recommendation for Iron Man red and golds?
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May 18, 2016 22:39
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Bad painter who just discovered drybrushing here, I'm having trouble deciding on a scheme for my death korps. http://imgur.com/a/Bv5T7 I was thinking of putting them on snow bases cos that seems cool, but I like the urban look he has too. I know, my lightbox needs more lights
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May 18, 2016 22:43
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Full Circle posted:Does anyone have a specific paint recommendation for Iron Man red and golds? When I painted my hulkbuster I used army painter Plate Mail Metal primer then used Tamiya's clear red overtop for the red. The gold I ended up using was vallejo model colour Old Gold. I was matching the Figma iron man action figure and the match is very very close 
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May 18, 2016 22:51
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StabMasterArson posted:Bad painter who just discovered drybrushing here, I'm having trouble deciding on a scheme for my death korps. http://imgur.com/a/Bv5T7 I'd consider a lighter, warmer, brown for the leather parts. Or a lighet, warmer, greenish brown. Right now the entire model is very dark and doesn't pop much. Either of those would compliment the blue pretty well and bring out the model IMO. Drybrush highlights work best on large flat surfaces or when very transparent (think 3:1 matte medium:paint) so I'd stick with line quick highlights or keep experimenting until the drybrushing is a bit neater. For accent colors, a cold white (blue white), light blue, silver, and light gold would work very well. Here's some insipration for ya:     Your base coat is solid, so just focous on neat highlights and getting the colors you want. Keep at it!
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May 18, 2016 23:20
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WIP on the Kingdom Death Tyrant aka the human form of the Dragon King.
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May 19, 2016 00:27
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The mini's looking cool so far. Also: stop biting your nails.
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May 19, 2016 01:05
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Ok so I hosed up in a big way. I added hobby sand to all my Team Yankee infantry bases before I glued the models in. Now the models won't fit. Not a huge problem, I used wood glue (PVA) for the sand so I'm soaking all the bases in warm water overnight and by morning I'll be able to scrape all of it off. SO this begs the question, when I glue all the infantry models to the bases, how do I actually make the base terrain? I don't think I'll be able to use hobby sand with all the models already glued on.
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May 19, 2016 01:38
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You could just pin it after the model the base. That's what I do anyway.
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May 19, 2016 01:42
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Well the problem with TY models and bases is that the models have little round bases themselves, and the bases have little round depressions where the bottom of the models fit in to be flush with the base. I think I'll need to get finer sand. The grains are pretty large, they worked fine for my 40k models but the smaller scale TY models I gotta use smaller sand. I think that's the problem. So my question is what is some good sand/material for 15mm bases. What are good paints for said 15mm bases. Phi230 fucked around with this message at 01:58 on May 19, 2016 |
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May 19, 2016 01:54
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Phi230 posted:
sift the sand?
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May 19, 2016 02:04
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Yeast posted:sift the sand? Ok. What colors should I use for an earthy tone. I've been using just like 3 different layered paints, and they just kind of make a muddy/neutral ground that I'm not too happy with.
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May 19, 2016 02:09
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Would zandri dust > agrax earthshade > drybrush utshabi bone sound decent or is that more desert and less europe
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May 19, 2016 02:34
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I ran out of Nuln Oil mid-wash, and I found I didn't have any left. I grabbed my pot of watery, good for nothing Imperial Primer, and what do you know - watering it down slightly gives almost the exact same look as Nuln Oil! It's got a little more of a sheen to it, but most of it's getting painted over and these models will be matte varnished once I'm done painting them anyways.
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May 19, 2016 04:28
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Phi230 posted:Would zandri dust > agrax earthshade > drybrush utshabi bone sound decent or is that more desert and less europe Yeah that'd be fine - just don't go overboard on the ushabti, use it very very lightly, or else it'll go desert. You could also try Mournfang -> Agrax -> Balor
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May 19, 2016 05:19
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Haven't had a whole of time to work on miniatures while I round out the semester. I have however been rewarding myself with an hour every night painting. This is what I've managed so far this week and it's almost done. Comments and criticisms are welcome as always. 
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May 19, 2016 08:34
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Phi230 posted:Well the problem with TY models and bases is that the models have little round bases themselves, and the bases have little round depressions where the bottom of the models fit in to be flush with the base. Vallejo white pumice is very useful for 15mm bases, you can glue your infantry on and then paint it around. It's used a lot in Flames of War.
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May 19, 2016 08:52
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My current WIPs; Orc Troop and Janissairy from Infinity.  And an O-Yoroi TAG in a weathered style. 
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May 19, 2016 09:25
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The Sisko posted:Haven't had a whole of time to work on miniatures while I round out the semester. I have however been rewarding myself with an hour every night painting. This is what I've managed so far this week and it's almost done. Comments and criticisms are welcome as always. His face is appropriate for what he's stepping in.
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May 19, 2016 10:45
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Tentacle Party posted:My current WIPs; The weathering on that O-Yoroi is 100% bad rear end!
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May 19, 2016 12:57
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Phi230 posted:Ok so I hosed up in a big way. I haven't seen the TY models out of the box, but for my Epic stuff, I glue the painted model to the base, then spread glue on the base with a wet brush. You have to be a little more careful when painting the sand, obviously, but I rarely have an issue.
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May 19, 2016 13:18
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I primed a necron scythe, dreadnought and tau ship this morning. Came back an hour later to see the surface had turned to millions of tiny lumps. Turns out the nozzle on my primer can is all messed up and well now I get to strip loads of stuff again. On the other hand, I think I worked out my photo set up. How does this look?  Once I've got it down you wont have to keep seeing the same models over and over 
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May 19, 2016 14:11
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big_g posted:Vallejo white pumice is very useful for 15mm bases, you can glue your infantry on and then paint it around. It's used a lot in Flames of War. Ive seen that recommended but I have no idea where to find it. Do retail stores sell it or do I gotta order online?
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May 19, 2016 14:16
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That's definitely an improvement! I think you might have too much direct light, though; I notice there's a pure white reflection lines along the tail. Your light might need to be diffused through a screen or bounced off a white surface. (I'm also stealing that color scheme for every sea-creature and dinosaur I paint in the near future.)
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May 19, 2016 14:18
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 What would be a good way to paint this style of green? I think I should be able to do it with VGC Jade or Scurvy and mix with deck tan until I get to off white, but would there be a simpler way to use a more intermediate green instead of mixing with whites so soon? Similarly, the purple. I have VMC blue violet, dark blue, and another VGC bottle whose name has rubbed off but looks like a rich royal purple. I've been trying to nail down this style but I'm still getting used to the idea of incorporating a lot of whites into extreme highlighting, if that's what it takes. Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 14:22 on May 19, 2016 |
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May 19, 2016 14:19
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Phi230 posted:Ive seen that recommended but I have no idea where to find it. Do retail stores sell it or do I gotta order online? I saw it once at a hobby shop that had a shitload of paints, it was down below the Vallejo Model color dropper bottles in a bigger screw cap 
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May 19, 2016 14:26
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No idea where in the world you are, but Darksphere sell all the Vallejo accessory stuff in store.
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May 19, 2016 14:28
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moths posted:That's definitely an improvement! I think you might have too much direct light, though; I notice there's a pure white reflection lines along the tail. Your light might need to be diffused through a screen or bounced off a white surface. I have a super smooth gloss finish on them so I think those reflections are unavoidable. Just sat on a desk they have glossy white reflections even in the nothing but the dim, rainy British lighting. I took the photos with the minis in a white light tent and the lens sticking through a slot. The colours are, from lowest application to final layers: Vallejo model colours turqouise, light turqouise, blue green, emerald, then vallejo game colour livery green. The tail is citadel screamer pink and naggaroth night. Those vallejo model colours are just amazing to paint with, I'm looking for excuses to use them on everything I paint. The livery green is a green colour but I needed to apply lots of thin coats using a 50% matt medium thinner mix to stop it being a tacky mess.
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May 19, 2016 14:29
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BULBASAUR posted:I'd consider a lighter, warmer, brown for the leather parts. Or a lighet, warmer, greenish brown. Right now the entire model is very dark and doesn't pop much. Either of those would compliment the blue pretty well and bring out the model IMO. Drybrush highlights work best on large flat surfaces or when very transparent (think 3:1 matte medium:paint) so I'd stick with line quick highlights or keep experimenting until the drybrushing is a bit neater. For accent colors, a cold white (blue white), light blue, silver, and light gold would work very well. Here's some insipration for ya: Thanks! gold trim seems cool
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May 19, 2016 14:42
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Lethemonster posted:The colours are, from lowest application to final layers: Vallejo model colours turqouise, light turqouise, blue green, emerald, then vallejo game colour livery green. The tail is citadel screamer pink and naggaroth night. Oh, sounds like some reflecting is unavoidable then. Thanks for the color list, that's going to be a huge help! And can I ask what you used for the eyes?
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May 19, 2016 14:53
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moths posted:Oh, sounds like some reflecting is unavoidable then. Thanks for the color list, that's going to be a huge help! And can I ask what you used for the eyes? Oh yeah. Vallejo model colour red - which is also a gorgeous paint - then citadel blazing orange and sunburst yellow. I added a drop of yellow ink into the sunburst yellow after the first couple because it was taking too many layers to get as vibrant as I wanted. The first one is a bit bug eyed. Then I gave them a couple of layers of citadel yellow glaze.
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May 19, 2016 15:02
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I've been looking at compressors again and wanted to get the TC-620X since that's the quoted price ($250) is in my price range, but right now it's showing upwards of $350-400. Is it just out of stock everywhere right now? E: I see that the Badger TC-910 Aspire is in this price range. Is it practically the same thing? Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 15:18 on May 19, 2016 |
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May 19, 2016 15:12
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The Sisko posted:Haven't had a whole of time to work on miniatures while I round out the semester. I have however been rewarding myself with an hour every night painting. This is what I've managed so far this week and it's almost done. Comments and criticisms are welcome as always. I've checked this guy out a few times, and I think one thing he really does need is a spot color. I dig the grounded and realistic paint scheme he's got going on, but even in a realistic paint scheme a red bandana would serve as an exciting spot color, and something that would make sense for the grounded aesthetic. I'd also highlight the fabric folds on his sleeve to the same level as the fabric on his shoulders just to make the model pop more. I dig it though.
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May 19, 2016 18:57
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I've got these (rather rare now) Battlefleet Gothic Tau ships from Forgeworld, that i let a friend paint many moons ago. He's varnished them and used a very good primer, so they're a real bitch to strip, so i'd like to ask the hivemind for suggestions on what i should do to improve the existing paint job.  I primarily work with Citadel paints 
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May 19, 2016 20:02
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I dont know if you guys have come across it before but I've just found this blog and she's written/photographed a bunch of really good step by step tutorials amongst other interesting stuff. http://magie-miniatures.blogspot.co.uk/
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May 19, 2016 20:14
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