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Is there a half decent cheap cordless impact wrench?
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May 16, 2016 10:36
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Ryobi 3-speed qualifies as half-decent, but spend the money on a Milwaukee M12 FUEL or M18 FUEL one, they're worth their weight in gold and unlike Ryobi the warranty actually means something Kind of amusing since they're both made by the same company (TTI) but hey, that's china.
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May 16, 2016 10:48
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I need a general-purpose cordless drill in the $50 range. Most of what I'm seeing is Black + Decker; any specifics on what I should look for?
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May 16, 2016 17:03
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Dad's giving me a wire-feed flux-core welder, what's the least worst flux-core wire out there? He doesn't know what the model number or brand is so I MIGHT be able to hook gas up to it, won't know till I see it. Augmented Dickey posted:I need a general-purpose cordless drill in the $50 range. Most of what I'm seeing is Black + Decker; any specifics on what I should look for?
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May 16, 2016 18:05
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scuz posted:Dad's giving me a wire-feed flux-core welder, what's the least worst flux-core wire out there? He doesn't know what the model number or brand is so I MIGHT be able to hook gas up to it, won't know till I see it. For flux core wire Hobart is what our QA guy that runs our ASME program at work likes. That or Lincoln should be fine. Make sure the wire is self shielding if you're not using gas. If you are make sure it's not just MIG gas - they typically are different.
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May 16, 2016 18:22
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Make sure you set the electrode polarity properly on the machine before welding. Lincoln wire is good, under no circumstances should you ever run HF wire. Basically any name brand is going to be OK, but home depot stocks Lincoln so it's what I use. Also, remember that the rule of thumb is "if there's slag, drag" AKA you should push the weld puddle with any non-slag welding process (TIG, MIG) and drag the puddle with any slag welding process (fluxcore, stick, maybe dualshield but not sure about that.)
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May 16, 2016 18:46
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Timmy Cruise posted:For flux core wire Hobart is what our QA guy that runs our ASME program at work likes. That or Lincoln should be fine. Make sure the wire is self shielding if you're not using gas. If you are make sure it's not just MIG gas - they typically are different. kastein posted:Make sure you set the electrode polarity properly on the machine before welding. Lincoln wire is good, under no circumstances should you ever run HF wire. Basically any name brand is going to be OK, but home depot stocks Lincoln so it's what I use. I think HF wire is what convinced dad that the welder didn't work in the first place. He bought a stick welder to replace it and didn't realize that the lovely wire is gonna gently caress up your lovely welder 
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May 16, 2016 19:17
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Augmented Dickey posted:I need a general-purpose cordless drill in the $50 range. Most of what I'm seeing is Black + Decker; any specifics on what I should look for? I haven't used it but I've heard a lot of people like the $20 Chicago Electric cordless drill from Harbor Freight. Obviously it's going to have some limitations and who knows if the battery will last more than a year but for the price who cares. edit: I think it's this guy: http://www.harborfreight.com/18-volt-38-in-cordless-drilldriver-with-keyless-chuck-21-clutch-settings-69651.html mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 20:39 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 20:36
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Augmented Dickey posted:I need a general-purpose cordless drill in the $50 range. Most of what I'm seeing is Black + Decker; any specifics on what I should look for? Can you spend a little more? I like Ryobi tools for the budget minded. (As long as you fill out the warranty paperwork!)
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May 16, 2016 22:01
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I got a 12V Li-On Ryobi drill to use around the house. It's not professional grade, but it's been great for drilling holes and driving screws the times I've needed it. The tiny size is actually nice for lugging around and holding in awkward positions. I'm not exactly doing heavy construction with it. I think the most strenuous thing I've done is drive some 3-4" long screws to repair my fence, which it did with a bit of groaning. It's my first Li-On drill and that's so much better than NiCa ones I've used in the past. I got one with two batteries for like $80 and see Home Depot has an 18V version for the same price now. Otherwise, they have 12V ones with a single battery for $50. $30 for upgraded power and an extra batt doesn't seem too bad to me, if you can swing it.
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May 17, 2016 02:28
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Now that I have a cordless Milwaukee drill, I'm looking for a use for my DeWalt corded number. Whaddya call those contraptions that take normal corded hand-held drills and turn em into a drill press? Are they worth it?
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May 17, 2016 19:00
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Thanks for the input guys; just ordered this one. I figure if it breaks after the one year warranty period I can just put $30 into a new one. I looked at the harbour freight options but they mostly seem to use NiCd batteries which seems like a pain in the rear end for occasional use. Should 12v be sufficient for light duty puttering around the house? http://m.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-Reco..._-206384320-_-N Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 19:44 on May 17, 2016 |
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May 17, 2016 19:41
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Whatever you do, read the fine print and jump through their stupid hoops or the 1 year warranty is void and they'll tell you to eat a dick.
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May 17, 2016 19:48
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For 50 bucks you might want to just look on craigslist, the ryobi warranty isn't worth a gently caress anyway and you might be able to score a kit of tools for 50 bucks.
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May 17, 2016 20:13
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http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/b4/b46a826b-fc6c-41e3-9721-0c14e6f7c3cd.pdf The warranty seems pretty straightforward? Basically 'just send it back if it brakes'?
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May 17, 2016 21:08
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I'm in the market for an air compressor. I didn't really want to spend more than $500, but I guess I might have to. I'm looking for something big enough to run a media blaster, so like 10cfm @ 90psi? I'm not exactly sure on my numbers, but I'm thinking these 6cfm guys won't cut it. Also will be used for air tools like impact wrench, and paint sprayer. Not necessarily heavy duty use either. 110v preferred, but I haven't priced out how much an additional 220v to the garage would be. Don't care if it's portable, but if it is I guess that's a plus. Any recommendations?
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May 17, 2016 22:35
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Augmented Dickey posted:Thanks for the input guys; just ordered this one. I figure if it breaks after the one year warranty period I can just put $30 into a new one. I looked at the harbour freight options but they mostly seem to use NiCd batteries which seems like a pain in the rear end for occasional use. Get the 18volt. It's got a lot more tools in the line up that you might need down the road.
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May 18, 2016 01:23
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CloFan posted:I'm in the market for an air compressor. I didn't really want to spend more than $500, but I guess I might have to. I'm looking for something big enough to run a media blaster, so like 10cfm @ 90psi? I'm not exactly sure on my numbers, but I'm thinking these 6cfm guys won't cut it. Also will be used for air tools like impact wrench, and paint sprayer. Not necessarily heavy duty use either. 110v preferred, but I haven't priced out how much an additional 220v to the garage would be. Don't care if it's portable, but if it is I guess that's a plus. To get anywhere near 10 CFM your going to need something like 3-5HP, and that means you will NEED 220v single phase. Not a chance in hell of running that off 120, you're talking more like 3-4CFM there. Also don't media blasters need inline dryers? You could get a 6 or so CFM compressor on a 60+ gallon tank, at least you could blast for a few seconds between cycles then. Also $500 is porbably scraping the bottom for something like that. I dont think you will get 10CFM for much under $1k. That said maybe im full of poo poo. This claims 18CFM. http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/ir/ingersoll-rand-5-hp-220volt-60-gallon-upright-18-5-cfm-s So I guess I don't fuckin know, though I imagine there's some marketing fluff in those numbers for a single stage compressor. Sadi fucked around with this message at 01:49 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 01:46
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18CFM @ 40PSI, which will be significantly less CFM at 90psi.
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May 18, 2016 02:04
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Oh well, thanks anyways. Yeah I think my budget is a bit low for this. I was looking at this (http://www.atwoods.com/ac-electric/pro-plan-magna-force-air-compressor-60-gallon-37-hp.htm) for $450 from Atwoods. It's a 220v, so I'd need to factor in cost of running a line from the circuit breaker. Also, the thing is fuckin' huge. I have no idea what an inline dryer is, guess I need to continue research. E: atwoods page posted:CFM CloFan fucked around with this message at 14:26 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 02:19
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Im no expert so verify, dont trust me. I just know a guy with a nice shop who bought a refrigerated dryer to get water out of the lines before his media blaster. I dont know if its needed, as Im not sure why it would be bad to have a little moisture in your media. Maybe it clumps?
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May 18, 2016 02:30
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@ drill dude if you can swing a bit more I would buy this guy: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS31-2A-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B003BEE2LU I have one and it is a great drill.
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May 18, 2016 03:21
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Sadi posted:Im no expert so verify, dont trust me. I just know a guy with a nice shop who bought a refrigerated dryer to get water out of the lines before his media blaster. I dont know if its needed, as Im not sure why it would be bad to have a little moisture in your media. Maybe it clumps? Well, the type of blasting I'm doing uses baking soda, which dissolves in water and probably clogs. I looked at some, and they're a couple bucks a piece and disposable I think. I'll look more into it later though for sure
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May 18, 2016 04:18
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I even get moisture clogs blasting with glass beads, but my cheap compressor is borderline at best and a small dryer cuts my flow too much, so I just keep a stiff wire in the blasting cabinet to clean out those clogs every 10 seconds.
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May 18, 2016 04:30
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Augmented Dickey posted:http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/b4/b46a826b-fc6c-41e3-9721-0c14e6f7c3cd.pdf Kastein has a rant post about it but I think it's summed up with the warranty process (and rules) being pretty loving lovely for something that you spent some good money on.
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May 18, 2016 07:11
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coathat posted:Get the 18volt. It's got a lot more tools in the line up that you might need down the road. Counterpoint, I have 18v ryobi kit and for what I use the drill for I could use a 10.8/14.4v combi 80-90% of the time. If I could start over I'd get a 10.8v drill & impact first, then buy the 18v or corded kit later when I needed the extra muscle.
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May 18, 2016 09:54
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Cakefool posted:Counterpoint, I have 18v ryobi kit and for what I use the drill for I could use a 10.8/14.4v combi 80-90% of the time. If I could start over I'd get a 10.8v drill & impact first, then buy the 18v or corded kit later when I needed the extra muscle. No, you do the reverse. You get the overkill and then down the line you get the weaker more compact tools to supplement. Better to have the power and not need it...
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May 19, 2016 12:06
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IOwnCalculus posted:Kastein has a rant post about it but I think it's summed up with the warranty process (and rules) being pretty loving lovely for something that you spent some good money on. Basically if you know to register it because you read the legalese, hopefully you won't have the issues I had. You need to keep the receipts and when you register it has to be within a certain period of purchase, blah blah blah, dumb bullshit. I saw the "1 or 3 year warranty" boast on the box and said cool! I have a long warranty. And used my tools and one of the batteries failed at like 4-5 months, followed soon after by the other. They told me to go gently caress myself because I hadn't registered, because I didn't realize I had to register on a website to get something that was listed on the box in huge fancy wordart when I bought it. So I cost them five figures in lost revenue to sate my bloodlust for shitlord warranty weasels by telling a LOT of people to buy something else because they hosed me over. If they'd just replaced my $50 pair of batteries instead of being dicks I would have been recommending them to everyone that whole time. Hell, I did up until they screwed me. I ended up gutting one of my failed batteries and connecting it to a bigass lead-acid pack I built for it, however, because I don't really care about it being cordless, just that I can use it a mile out in the woods or in the junkyard. A six foot cable to a 15lb lead acid battery pack is perfectly acceptable for my usage and lasts bloody goddamn forever while costing a fraction what the replacement NiCd or Li-Ion cells for my packs would have.
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May 19, 2016 21:46
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Based on this ad by 14", I decided that I wanted one of those air compressors. I'm gonna go lookit this one after work but really haven't much of a clue what I'm looking at. When the guy was talking to me about the unit, he stated that the previous owner has installed a blow-off valve at 80 pounds so it won't go higher than that. I'm guessing that I can remove that blow-off valve and replace it with something else, is that true? I won't do it if it's unsafe, obviously, but 14"'s unit will do "125psi at the regulator all day" and looks preeeetty much the same as the one in the ad that I found, so I'm thinking this can do more than the blow-off valve is allowing. kastein posted:Basically if you know to register it because you read the legalese, hopefully you won't have the issues I had. You need to keep the receipts and when you register it has to be within a certain period of purchase, blah blah blah, dumb bullshit. scuz fucked around with this message at 21:53 on May 19, 2016 |
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May 19, 2016 21:48
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I'll have to take some pics if I remember. Basically it's a 6V 7Ah gelcell in series with a 12V 7Ah gelcell, I gutted the battery pack and wired it right into the + and - terminals so it plugs into the tools just like my remaining Li-Ion pack does. They're 18V tools so it Just Works. The hardest part was finding and buying an 18V lead acid battery charger, most store stocked ones are 6 or 12 volts. I ended up getting one intended for mopeds and handicap scooters from powerstream.com iirc.
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May 19, 2016 22:00
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CloFan posted:Well, the type of blasting I'm doing uses baking soda, which dissolves in water and probably clogs. I looked at some, and they're a couple bucks a piece and disposable I think. I'll look more into it later though for sure Check out these out https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=franzinator&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 I've been planning on building one for our new shop/compressor when I finally finish insulating the wall behind the compressor. I've made smaller ones and they do work, enough that I was getting a cup to 1.75 cups a day out of ~12ft of pipe/loops. Another option is to add a after cooler between the head and pump. It's common on larger compressor and helps drop the tank temp by 20-40F.
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May 19, 2016 22:05
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scuz posted:Based on this ad by 14", I decided that I wanted one of those air compressors. I'm gonna go lookit this one after work but really haven't much of a clue what I'm looking at. When the guy was talking to me about the unit, he stated that the previous owner has installed a blow-off valve at 80 pounds so it won't go higher than that. I'm guessing that I can remove that blow-off valve and replace it with something else, is that true? I won't do it if it's unsafe, obviously, but 14"'s unit will do "125psi at the regulator all day" and looks preeeetty much the same as the one in the ad that I found, so I'm thinking this can do more than the blow-off valve is allowing. That's a sweet little compressor. The only concern with changing to a higher pressure is if the tank can handle it. Check if there's a label that says max psi or find a model number and look it up. Aside from blowing up the tank, worst case scenario is the PO turned it down because the pump seals are worn and leak at higher pressure. Parts are probably available and it's an easy job to fix.
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May 19, 2016 22:47
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I just bought 14's compressor, any suggestions for baby's first air tools? Best bang for the buck toolage?
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May 19, 2016 22:50
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Maksimus54 posted:I just bought 14's compressor, any suggestions for baby's first air tools? Best bang for the buck toolage? Harbor Freight earth quake 1/2" Impact. 1/4" Die Grinder. 1/4" Right angle Die Grinder with surface conditioning kit (3m Roloc). Oh and pretty much every other HF air tool. Though the air requirements might suck that little thing dry quick.
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May 19, 2016 22:54
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Their air nibbler is fine unless you try to use it on 16ga steel, which it claims to work on but only bites enough to get jammed in a most enraging way.
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May 19, 2016 22:58
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kmcormick9 posted:No, you do the reverse. You get the overkill and then down the line you get the weaker more compact tools to supplement. Better to have the power and not need it... No, that's what I did and I'm recommending the reverse. I bought 18v kit and found I was carting around a large bulky heavy tool to do the job a much smaller lighter tool would be better at. To the point when my local diy store was selling off a bunch of lovely 4.8v screwdrivers for £1 each I bought 2 and bodged in USB connectors so I charge by usb instead of propriety wall wart. One lives in the kitchen drawer for anything my wife needs, one lives in the decorating box for unscrewing socket plates etc.
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May 20, 2016 07:19
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I think it probably depends on what you're planning on using the tools for. I do a lot of my own home remodeling stuff. I initially went with 12v tools first and there were a lot of instances where I needed bigger tools and had to pull out my corded stuff. I subsequently bought 18v tools and use those nearly exclusively.
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May 20, 2016 15:39
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oxbrain posted:That's a sweet little compressor.  That means 100psi for the tank?
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May 20, 2016 16:28
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scuz posted:That means 100psi for the tank? Yes. Maximum Allowable Working Pressure is 100 psi up to 650 F. Don't exceed either of those values as the design limits are going to be just 10 to 25 PSI higher (at that rather high temperature). Keep in mind older vessels are generally not as strong as brand new, though.
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May 20, 2016 16:57
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glynnenstein posted:Yes. Maximum Allowable Working Pressure is 100 psi up to 650 F. Don't exceed either of those values as the design limits are going to be just 10 to 25 PSI higher (at that rather high temperature). Keep in mind older vessels are generally not as strong as brand new, though.
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May 20, 2016 17:03
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