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Frobbe posted:I've got these (rather rare now) Battlefleet Gothic Tau ships from Forgeworld, that i let a friend paint many moons ago. He's varnished them and used a very good primer, so they're a real bitch to strip, so i'd like to ask the hivemind for suggestions on what i should do to improve the existing paint job. Find the Citadel paint that most closely matches that ochre color, and then paint over it, leaving the shading in the recesses. It looks like your friend just used Tausept Ochre or Vomit Brown or whatever and washed the gently caress out of it and let it pool everywhere.
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May 19, 2016 20:47
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I don't know what to do about the varnish or if it matters, but I'd just put down several thin coats of that primary color on top over and over until it all evens out and looks nice and clean. Then maybe add some detailing after that or maybe call it a day depending.SRM posted:Find the Citadel paint that most closely matches that ochre color, and then paint over it, leaving the shading in the recesses. It looks like your friend just used Tausept Ochre or Vomit Brown or whatever and washed the gently caress out of it and let it pool everywhere. It does look like there was a wash that he over-did, but on top of that I see a bunch of obvious brush strokes, I just think it wasn't a very even paint job and the paint may have been too thick. The details look fine though, you just need to clean up those body panels.
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May 19, 2016 20:54
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Does anyone have a spare Contemptor dreadnought head they can swap me for? My wife mistakenly tossed the one for mine. I've got loads of bits worth trading so hit me up.
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May 19, 2016 21:57
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I have officially glued all 79 soviet infantry to their bases. My body aches. Painting them is gonna be a blast.
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May 19, 2016 22:09
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Lethemonster posted:I've been playing about with some editing to get my photos to look closer to the real thing. How does this mini look to you guys? Anything wrong with the image quality on anyone elses monitor? Are these supposed to look like a cresting ocean wave in the form of a screamer? That's an excellent idea, lighting problems or not.
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May 19, 2016 23:04
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Manifest posted:Does anyone have a spare Contemptor dreadnought head they can swap me for? My wife mistakenly tossed the one for mine. Just chop any space marine helmet in half horizontally?
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May 20, 2016 00:54
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Chill la Chill posted:I've been looking at compressors again and wanted to get the TC-620X since that's the quoted price ($250) is in my price range, but right now it's showing upwards of $350-400. Is it just out of stock everywhere right now? If I may be so bold, buy a carbonic tank. If you are dropping that much coin on a compressor, you're serious about airbrushing. The only reason to go compressor over CO2 is if you have no place to store the tank. A pony tank should run about 250, and the regulator is about 75. Contact your local welding shop for a good price quote. What are the benefits of a carbonic tank? Pure, solid air with constant pressure and absolutely zero chance of water in the line. It also has the benefit of making zero noise. My regulator can go as light as three pounds (I used it for makeup for years, you don't wanna go high pressure while airbrushing makeup) to as high as seventy pounds (for pushing truly thick paint out in a uniform blast.) Seriously, everyone looking at a solid airbrush rig should look at a carbonic tank. Even when I was airbrushing professionally, I'd only need to fill the tank every six months. (At 20 bucks a fill.) Two things to keep in mind. 1. The tank should not be stored inside a dwelling for safety reasons. (Back porch, garage, locked in a truck, at a friends house, etc. are all fine.) 2. When filling the tank, they won't let you drive away if your not in an open vehicle of some sort, depending on your state/welding shop. These are seriously the only drawbacks. I was hesitant at first, but when I finally bought one, I can never go back. Fucker performs better then the pro-tank Iwatta compressor with multi-hookups. (The 800 dollar one.) You can use it as long as you like at a sitting. no plugs, no power, no water in the line, no loss of pressure, no max pressure, no min pressure. Just pure, clean air at the desired PSI until the bottle runs out. (Which takes forever.)
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May 20, 2016 03:25
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Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
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Or, just hear me out, I'll keep using my quiet compressor with a 1 gallon tank. I can even keep it in my painting room.
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May 20, 2016 03:29
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Floppychop posted:Or, just hear me out, I'll keep using my quiet compressor with a 1 gallon tank. I can even keep it in my painting room. Oh, for sure! If your current rig does everything you want it to, then there's just really no reason to change it. I just went through several compressors before trying a tank, and it was a huge difference for what I needed it to do. (Honestly it was out of necessity, I was working out in the boonies and power was scarce. Plus the heat index was through the roof, my smart-jet pro kept overheating.) Have you ever tried constant air (either CO2 or nitrogen) with an airbrush?
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May 20, 2016 03:49
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AIRBRUSH QUESTION What is the proper cleaner (and method of use) for a full overhaul cleaning from tip to spring? I have a Badger 105 and a 155, so gravity and siphon. I am making a single purchase on amazon that I want to be able to say covered me when I made it, and I don't need more. I currently have: Airbrushes Assorted bottles and caps Some siphon gravity cups Iwata airbrush cleaner Vallejo airbrush thinner I am currently using multiple brands of paints, but generally VSP primer, Vallejo Air airpaint, and Citadel brushpaint that I might want to try diluting for the ol' airbrushin'. I have some vinyl pipe cleaner brush things, the ones with metal handles that bend. I would like to fully clean and then use my airbrushes.
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May 20, 2016 06:28
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I would love to try a tank mahal but I need the compressor to be used in an apartment. If they're anything like the giant tanks my friend had for paintball, they were pretty convenient for offsite woodsball and could be used for several days before needing a refill. Hell, if there was some way to use the carbon fiber or steel tanks I have for paintball I'd love to attach an extra into a compressor for airbrush use if I can save money that way by only needing a compressor + necessary connections.
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May 20, 2016 06:35
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Skarsnik posted:Just chop any space marine helmet in half horizontally? ... Would that work?
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May 20, 2016 07:31
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Why wouldn't it, the head on a contemptor is just a space marine helmet? Just pick something that isn't too obviously 40k, though they all look about the same mouthpiece up
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May 20, 2016 07:39
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It's bigger than a space marine helmet. But it might look ok
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May 20, 2016 08:23
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Frobbe posted:I've got these (rather rare now) Battlefleet Gothic Tau ships from Forgeworld, that i let a friend paint many moons ago. He's varnished them and used a very good primer, so they're a real bitch to strip, so i'd like to ask the hivemind for suggestions on what i should do to improve the existing paint job. If you're up for it, try aztecing the surface. Its a technique the Star Trek modellers use and it works great for models with lots of flat areas. I do it a lot on my starships. Have a tutorial: http://theminiaturespage.com/workbench/702458/
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May 20, 2016 09:01
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signalnoise posted:AIRBRUSH QUESTION If you have serious amounts of paint built up and you don't know what type of paint you're dealing with, you can't go wrong with cellulose thinner. The airbrushes you have use PTFE or Teflon seals/washers so they are fine for harsh thinners like cellulose thinner. Chuck everything in an old glass jar or metal can, cover with thinner and leave for a few minutes. You can also use white spirit/mineral spirits, which is maybe slightly less toxic - it may take a little longer to do its work but it may be easier to find, depending if you have DIY or paint stores near you. With these you can also use an ultrasonic cleaner but soaking just takes a little longer to work. Once it's all clean rinse, well with water. As you're assembling, putting a drop of airbrush lubricant (Badger sells 'Regdab', iwata's is called Super Lubricant or something like that) on all the threads, needle, inside the nozzle, on the contact points of the trigger. For thinning the paint, water works fine with most paints, but won't work with Tamiya paints, you'll need the Tamiya thinner. If in doubt, use the thinner made by the paint manufacturer. Be careful using the pipe cleaner type brushes, I accidentally pulled out a seal in my 105 one time and had to send it to get repaired. Also, the metal ends can scratch the finish pretty badly. You'll still need something really thin to get into the nozzle - ideally an old airbrush needle (everybody ends up with one eventually, but the tip needs to be straightened out) but you can use a thin sewing pin with its blunt end shoved into a wine cork or something. In case anyone is curious about the new Badger Xtreme Patriot 105, I have a first look here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qV3lJNyeuRc
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May 20, 2016 09:30
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Chill la Chill posted:I would love to try a tank mahal but I need the compressor to be used in an apartment. If they're anything like the giant tanks my friend had for paintball, they were pretty convenient for offsite woodsball and could be used for several days before needing a refill. Hell, if there was some way to use the carbon fiber or steel tanks I have for paintball I'd love to attach an extra into a compressor for airbrush use if I can save money that way by only needing a compressor + necessary connections. I use a small five pound tank, that's a standard size for "personal" use. Because of home beer brewing, you can now get them as small as one pound. Since you have paintball tanks, you might wanna try this. (I had no idea they made regulators this small, would have been awesome when I was doing makeup!) http://www.casesforvisualarts.com/makeup-airbrush It's 120 bucks, but that's with the shoulder strap. I'm sure you could call and see how much for just the regulator. (Or hunt around for one, movie supply houses are notorious for high prices.) Or here's one from a home brewing company, it's 15 bucks for the bottle adaptor and 50 for the regulator. http://www.homebrewing.org/The-Adapter-CO2-regulator-to-Paintball-Tank-Adapter_p_1122.html While looking around I also saw a few airbrush threads and YouTube videos talking about using paintball tanks, I'll look around after work and see if I can find one talking about the pros and cons
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May 20, 2016 11:10
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Good suggestions all! I'll poke around my paints and see what i end up with. what mostly annoys me is simply the fact they they look dirty due to the liberal use of wash.
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May 20, 2016 11:38
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Frobbe posted:Good suggestions all! I'll poke around my paints and see what i end up with. what mostly annoys me is simply the fact they they look dirty due to the liberal use of wash. The Imperial and Chaos ships benefit from heavy washing and drybrushing. The Tau will do really well with a pin wash around the detail areas.
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May 20, 2016 11:55
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Just painted my first two minis and man how the gently caress do you paint eyes on like a 28mm Reaper mini this is awful. I feel like I need a round 10/0 natural sable brush for anything other than a black dot.
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May 21, 2016 06:38
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Eyes come with time. It will take a while. The best way I've done is to paint the entire eye black, then paint on two white lines in both sides. It helps prevent the tunnel vision effect. I just painted up some more Empire of Dust for Kings of War. Not as quickly as I hoped, but progress is progress: Flying Pharoah:   Regiments of Scavengers:    Horde of Chariots:    
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May 21, 2016 06:42
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sugar free jazz posted:Just painted my first two minis and man how the gently caress do you paint eyes on like a 28mm Reaper mini this is awful. I feel like I need a round 10/0 natural sable brush for anything other than a black dot. I don't paint eyes.
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May 21, 2016 09:55
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sugar free jazz posted:Just painted my first two minis and man how the gently caress do you paint eyes on like a 28mm Reaper mini this is awful. I feel like I need a round 10/0 natural sable brush for anything other than a black dot. Whole bunch of choices, varying from 'very carefully' to 'not at all'. The latter is common with Reaper Bones particularly as bonesium does tend to lose or wash out tiny details like eyes, and just suggesting them via shading is usually fine.
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May 21, 2016 10:31
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I just painted up some more Empire of Dust for Kings of War. Not as quickly as I hoped, but progress is progress: I'm on a bit of a TK kick myself, having found a Casket of Souls and some Ushabti really cheap (compared to Ebay prices anyway.) I'll just need to get another Tomb Scorpion and I should be all set. I've got a ton of unused bows, so I bought some legs on Ebay to make some archer units, but I don't have enough torsos - I think I'm going to have to make some extras since I can't buy the bits anymore. Chariots might also be a problem, since I only have six, but I think I'll be ok for 2000 point games... berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 13:56 on May 21, 2016 |
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May 21, 2016 13:50
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The advice I heard from a GW 'Eavy Metal painter was to paint the whole eye black, then put a dot of white on either side of the eye. Always starting with the outside dot because it will give you control over where he is looking. Personally, I use a micon pen to put the iris in.
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May 21, 2016 15:11
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Painted up a tauntaun skull from Star Wars for a buddy's birthday preset. It's a keychain.    Model was 3d printed, which you can see in the primer pictures better, forgot to take a pick fresh off the bed:   Just used 3 colors: Usbati bone, Utharian grey, and agrax earthshade. Then finished with a clear coat. And yes the jaw moves.
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May 21, 2016 15:28
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Some more things finished. The Kingdom Death "Intimacy" event survivors (so inspired from the art from that part in the book, these were some extra minis in the game).  And some extra starting survivors using the multipart kit.  Together with the starting figures, I've had a lot of fun exploring how to paint a variety of skin tones. 
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May 21, 2016 21:47
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Great work as always.
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May 21, 2016 22:09
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Thanks. Plan is to finish the Tyrant the "People of the Dragon" survivors, and then start on some of the armour kit survivors, or have a break and tackle some Rackham Wolfen.
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May 21, 2016 22:16
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For some reason I find Rackham models super enjoyable and relaxing to paint.
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May 21, 2016 22:20
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Relaxing, enjoyable, and I find much like Kingdom Death, rather easy to paint. The details are well defined but not crowded, and so gives you space to play with colour.
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May 21, 2016 22:22
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crossposting from the oath thread! Squad goals is for all of the scourge this month, there are almost 100 of them painted. We'll start off here with this desolator that I made a clear resin base and flight stand for to represent it's main weapon and I also added a blue and white LED for extra effect.   Next up is a Death Tyrant someone put up on shapeways. I made some clear pink resin that I cast from a mold of a ball bearing to use as the floaty eyeballs. I tried to also cast clear resin for the phantasmal limb stalks that hold those spectral eyeballs in place but hot glue ended up being easier to work with and a lot faster despite it not being as clear as I would like.   For my monsters we'll start with a Reaper dragon...   Then a Lord of the Rings giant vampire thing  and finally a 10mm scale monster called the screamer, shown with some exotic (and larger than average) infantry for scale that I also painted this month. In the second picture it is riding it's dropship.   Then to finish off this month's oath we have a whole bunch of Dropzone Commander stuff     
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May 21, 2016 22:41
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nesbit37 posted:crossposting from the oath thread! ...Holy poo poo, dude. Nice! (Which Bones dragon is that, Nathavarr?)
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May 21, 2016 23:49
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Holy hell, that makes me want to dip my scourge and start all over again.
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May 22, 2016 00:04
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Dr. Gargunza posted:...Holy poo poo, dude. Nice! (Which Bones dragon is that, Nathavarr?) Thanks! The dragon is Narthrax from Bones 2.
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May 22, 2016 00:42
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Hey guys, I impulse bought a box of What would people recommend technique/paint-wise? I'm going for a warm, Autumnal look with them to match in with my Wood Elves.
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May 22, 2016 17:57
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malal posted:I use a small five pound tank, that's a standard size for "personal" use. Because of home beer brewing, you can now get them as small as one pound. Since you have paintball tanks, you might wanna try this. (I had no idea they made regulators this small, would have been awesome when I was doing makeup!) Sweet, thanks. I'll think about it since it is a lot of money to drop on something no matter which direction I choose. I do intend to use one regularly but in the end, if I'm being honest it'll probably end up similar to Giraldez' style where it'll be 5-10% airbrush 90% hairbrush. I just happen to have extra money by selling extraneous magic cards and this set of x-wing dice that goes for 200bux on ebay lol. Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 18:04 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 18:01
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Chill la Chill posted:Sweet, thanks. I'll think about it since it is a lot of money to drop on something no matter which direction I choose. I do intend to use one regularly but in the end, if I'm being honest it'll probably end up similar to Giraldez' style where it'll be 5-10% airbrush 90% hairbrush. I just happen to have extra money by selling extraneous magic cards and this set of x-wing dice that goes for 200bux on ebay lol. I just like to bully in with carbonic tank options, since they aren't really seen too often. I just never found a compressor that I liked, closest was the Iwata Smart Jet Pro. Even then I'd burn them out every few years. Of course at the time I was airbrushing four hours a day or so, so I'm sure the constant use made an impact. For just the occasional pop nothing wrong with compressors.
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May 22, 2016 18:15
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malal posted:I just like to bully in with carbonic tank options, since they aren't really seen too often. I just never found a compressor that I liked, closest was the Iwata Smart Jet Pro. Even then I'd burn them out every few years. Of course at the time I was airbrushing four hours a day or so, so I'm sure the constant use made an impact. So in the end, would the badger TC-910 Aspire be similar enough to the TC-620X to use it? I mean, especially to someone who's likely only going to use it occasionally? As in once every few weeks unless I really take a liking to it and change my style to use it more - though I think there's a low limit unless you're doing a lot of 28mm vehicles and Gundams.
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May 22, 2016 18:30
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Chill la Chill posted:So in the end, would the badger TC-910 Aspire be similar enough to the TC-620X to use it? I mean, especially to someone who's likely only going to use it occasionally? As in once every few weeks unless I really take a liking to it and change my style to use it more - though I think there's a low limit unless you're doing a lot of 28mm vehicles and Gundams. Either looks good for what you are doing. I like Sparmax, haven't used a lot of badger equipment. Really I just look for regulator range, water trap, and a tank. (And sound if that's an issue where you paint.) Where y'at? I might have something lying around I could toss your way.
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May 22, 2016 18:55
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