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Fujifilm cameras generally hold their value really well, partially because of stocking issues, but if you are worried about depreciation you are still in the window for re-selling it for the same price now. .
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May 19, 2016 01:00
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Just bear in mind that an XT-2 will likely cost $1600-1800 brand new so unless you grossly over paid you still got out cheaper.
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May 19, 2016 01:09
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Yeah it all depends on how much you paid for it.
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May 19, 2016 01:40
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rio posted:Yeah, I am certainly not disappointed by it. And I picked up the 35mm f/2 as well, which I am loving. Mainly just second guessing myself if an updated body is right around the corner. Right now its a great time to buy XT1 and it has great/best pound for the money ratio. Maaaaybee you brought the 35mm/2 a couple months too early since a X-Sale is supposed to be coming. But it's just $100 difference.
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May 19, 2016 02:05
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I was browsing D&D and looked at a linked photo of some important politician at a congressional hearing. On the opposite side of the politician in the photo there was a swarm of other photographers. There were lots of what appeared to be standard DSLRs in the hands of most of them, but there was one toward the front of the human mass who appeared to be holding an X-Pro. I guess people are using these things for professional photojournalism.
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May 19, 2016 02:06
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I was browsing D&D and looked at a linked photo of some important politician at a congressional hearing. On the opposite side of the politician in the photo there was a swarm of other photographers. There were lots of what appeared to be standard DSLRs in the hands of most of them, but there was one toward the front of the human mass who appeared to be holding an X-Pro. I guess people are using these things for professional photojournalism. Last year a dude in Baltimore made the cover of Time magazine with an X-E2 + 27mm pancake.
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May 19, 2016 02:08
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8th-snype posted:Tri-X is one of the most forgiving films on the planet, what are you developing it in? I originally thought the problem was my meter, but after shooting New Seagull 400 and some Rollei RPX, it's not. 120 Tri-X is just as dark but it resolves detail better than 135, so I find pushing sn extra stop helps with image clarity on 135 Tri-X. So now I either meter at 800 or 1600 and push one stop past that.
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May 19, 2016 03:21
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windex posted:I originally thought the problem was my meter, but after shooting New Seagull 400 and some Rollei RPX, it's not. 120 Tri-X is just as dark but it resolves detail better than 135, so I find pushing sn extra stop helps with image clarity on 135 Tri-X. So now I either meter at 800 or 1600 and push one stop past that. Okay so you have no idea what you are doing, cool.
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May 19, 2016 03:38
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Animal posted:Last year a dude in Baltimore made the cover of Time magazine with an X-E2 + 27mm pancake. When they first came out you would see Olympus PEN being used in magazine shoots a lot because of some promotion thing Olympus did. You cant tell the difference between this and pro camera* kind of thing *web sized, with thousands of pounds worth of lighting, and professional photo shop editing.
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May 19, 2016 08:22
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Animal posted:Last year a dude in Baltimore made the cover of Time magazine with an X-E2 + 27mm pancake. Well, an iPhone 4S was used to take a Time Magazine cover, so it's not necessarily a mark of quality.
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May 19, 2016 08:32
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rio posted:Yeah, I am certainly not disappointed by it. And I picked up the 35mm f/2 as well, which I am loving. Mainly just second guessing myself if an updated body is right around the corner.
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May 19, 2016 08:39
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evil_bunnY posted:You've got a perfectly good combo IMO. Agree with evil. The 35 f2 is an awesome lens. I wouldn't feel dumb for buying an xt1 now either. It's not like the xt2 is a massive upgrade. It has some new features that are nice, but when it comes to the photos they take, nobody will know the difference.
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May 19, 2016 15:29
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Any advice on how to make the auto ISO not so dumb in the X-T1? I raised the sensitivity to 6400, and when it needs to it will raise the sensitivity. But on the other side it will usually just stay at iso 800 in daylight with ridiculously fast shutter speeds instead of choosing an appropriate iso - I'm not sure why 800 is where the camera chooses to set the ISO so often. I will use the manual control dials of course, but if I am with my daughter and just want to fire off some shots it would be nice to have the option to put both knobs on A and go hog wild without wondering why the camera is not adjusting the iso in a common sense way.
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May 19, 2016 16:02
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Check your DR settings. At DR400 you'll be at a minimum ISO 800. I keep DR at auto, and it seems to me that the camera will just select the highest DR range for corresponding ISO. (e.g. ISO 400 auto exposure will result in DR200)
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May 19, 2016 16:27
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Shoot manual.
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May 19, 2016 16:29
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Or, just don't care about using ISO up to 6400 because it's ridiculously clean compared to Bayer sensors unless you're in extreme low light. The only time I care about manual ISO is when I'm using manual flash. Edit: to be slightly more helpful, how much of your XT-1 is in Auto mode? Obviously ISO, but what about aperture and shutter? The X-T1 can set a "minimum shutter speed value" when shutter is in Auto mode. If you go below that speed and you're already wide open (or are manual in your aperture), it will increase the ISO to set the correct exposure. So, if you have a really high minimum shutter speed value that might also be the culprit. Or if it's really dark outside. bobfather fucked around with this message at 16:42 on May 19, 2016 |
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May 19, 2016 16:36
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http://www.43rumors.com/ft4-handheld-high-resolution-mode-will-be-one-of-the-new-features-on-the-e-m1ii/
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May 19, 2016 16:36
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nexxai posted:http://www.43rumors.com/ft4-handheld-high-resolution-mode-will-be-one-of-the-new-features-on-the-e-m1ii/ This is pretty cool. The high-res mode does weird stuff with moving objects in scenes though, right?
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May 19, 2016 16:44
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rio posted:Any advice on how to make the auto ISO not so dumb in the X-T1? I raised the sensitivity to 6400, and when it needs to it will raise the sensitivity. But on the other side it will usually just stay at iso 800 in daylight with ridiculously fast shutter speeds instead of choosing an appropriate iso - I'm not sure why 800 is where the camera chooses to set the ISO so often. That's probably because its using the auto dynamic range. It needs to bump the ISO to give you DR200 and DR400. Try manually setting DR to 100. I have my XT-1 here with me so I'll test it once I am out of the subway and in broad daylight. Also I am gonna meet with a friend now to try the XPro2 and compare to XT1. Edit: beaten by lost cell signal. Thanks Obama.
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May 19, 2016 16:49
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Animal posted:That's probably because its using the auto dynamic range. It needs to bump the ISO to give you DR200 and DR400. Try manually setting DR to 100. I have my XT-1 here with me so I'll test it once I am out of the subway and in broad daylight. Also I am gonna meet with a friend now to try the XPro2 and compare to XT1. I set my DR to 100 and leave it. Everything looks plastic to me if it's set to anything different.
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May 19, 2016 17:16
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That was it. I had it set to dr400 - I'll put it back to normal.
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May 19, 2016 20:15
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bobfather posted:This is pretty cool. The high-res mode does weird stuff with moving objects in scenes though, right?
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May 19, 2016 23:08
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Selling my OM-D E-M5 to pick up a X100S. Hope I won't regret it!
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May 20, 2016 12:40
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nexxai posted:http://www.43rumors.com/ft4-handheld-high-resolution-mode-will-be-one-of-the-new-features-on-the-e-m1ii/ Eeeeeeeeee 
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May 20, 2016 14:06
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Has any nerd site done a sharpness analysis of the Olympus high resolution mode? Is it as sharp as 40mp, or it has effective resolution slightly lower due to algorithm or lens limitation? I wonder why the Pen-F is not more popular? On paper it should be very appealing to DP1M shooters.
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May 20, 2016 14:29
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whatever7 posted:Has any nerd site done a sharpness analysis of the Olympus high resolution mode? Is it as sharp as 40mp, or it has effective resolution slightly lower due to algorithm or lens limitation? I haven't analyzed it beyond eyeballing a few shots I took for shits and giggles but they definitely look notably sharper. I'll have to do some controlled shots sometime. The PEN-F seems like it has a hell of a sensor on it but $1,200 is asking quite a bit, and DPreview said it's not great with some of the zoom lenses and video is a little underwhelming. Goddamn do I love the look of it though.
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May 20, 2016 14:38
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Are there any good compact systems out there at the moment with a lower end/older body and a decent 50mm or 35mm equiv for under about $600 USD? Prime like that preferred but lovely kitty zoom would do if it's not complete garbage and is within that budget. Friend wants a recommendation for their kid which they can grow into, upgrade body and buy more lenses down the line.
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May 20, 2016 15:34
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Lon Lon Rabbit posted:Are there any good compact systems out there at the moment with a lower end/older body and a decent 50mm or 35mm equiv for under about $600 USD? Prime like that preferred but lovely kitty zoom would do if it's not complete garbage and is within that budget. Fuji X-E1's can be had for under $200 used, plus the 35mm F2 (50mm equiv) when it comes on sale will total about $500. Animal fucked around with this message at 18:21 on May 20, 2016 |
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May 20, 2016 15:40
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Animal posted:Fuji X-E2's can be had for under $200 used, plus the 35mm F2 (50mm equiv) when it comes on sale will total about $500. Cool do you know is the EVF on that considered decent?
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May 20, 2016 15:44
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Lon Lon Rabbit posted:Are there any good compact systems out there at the moment with a lower end/older body and a decent 50mm or 35mm equiv for under about $600 USD? Prime like that preferred but lovely kitty zoom would do if it's not complete garbage and is within that budget. m43 25mm (50 equiv) 1.8 or 1.7 can be had for ~200 easy and a used or older body under 400. If you go kit I believe the panny is better than oly. The better panny cameras have some cool features which will be good for kid photos like being able to choose a still +/- some seconds from when you actually pressed the shutter.
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May 20, 2016 15:45
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Lon Lon Rabbit posted:Cool do you know is the EVF on that considered decent? Yes its a pretty good EVF. Refresh goes down in low light but its totally usable. My sister still shoots with her X-E1 + 35mm f/1.4 and other than her desire for integrated WiFi she doesn't really seem dissatisfied with anything else about the camera. So I'll probably buy her an X-E2.
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May 20, 2016 15:53
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Lon Lon Rabbit posted:Are there any good compact systems out there at the moment with a lower end/older body and a decent 50mm or 35mm equiv for under about $600 USD? Prime like that preferred but lovely kitty zoom would do if it's not complete garbage and is within that budget. I brought a new gray market Panasonic GM1 with a kit lens for 300 on ebay. You probably can get a GM5 (it has a EVF) for 50% more. They are as light and compact as the RX100. I would recommend a X100s if the user is an adult. But...kids won't use these cameras unless they can post the picture to social media directly from the camera.
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May 20, 2016 16:19
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Xabi posted:Selling my OM-D E-M5 to pick up a X100S. Hope I won't regret it! I'm not sure this is a great idea to be perfectly honest. I have the OM-D E-M5 and the X100 (the S is slightly faster with the autofocus) and the EM-5 with the Panasonic Leica 25mm ƒ/1.4 just blows it out of the water in every conceivable way.
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May 20, 2016 17:49
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DJExile posted:I haven't analyzed it beyond eyeballing a few shots I took for shits and giggles but they definitely look notably sharper. I'll have to do some controlled shots sometime. The PEN-F is an amazing camera for me, but I can't speak to the autofocus at all because the lenses I use on it are the Kowa 8.5, the Voigtlander 17.5, and some M mount glass with an adapter, all manual focus. I've been shooting mine since the first week of March. Pros: Plenty usable at ISO 1600 during the day all day, especially at f5.6 or f8 with the electronic shutter (gains a stop over hardware, 1/16000 vs 1/8000). Useful for days when you just want to snap photos, I drop to ISO400 on really bright days. ISO200 does not have much in the way of recoverability. Plenty usable at ISO 6400 at night, as long as you don't peep (about as good as ISO 12,800 on a 5D3). DOF bonus from smaller image circle is great for manual focus forgiveness. "ESP" metering with closed up lenses is pretty decent at getting you the most recoverable image if you like to shoot in aperture priority, with exposure compensation needed for night photos. Caveat: More open than f2.8 you pretty much have to change to spot metering, f4 is questionable ultra wide. Olympus' FL-600R flash is pretty great, especially since it accepts guide number input vs flash power. I use it with my film gear now instead of my Canon flashes. Cons: The menu system sucks. Every time you change a contactless lens you have to dig through six screens. In some lighting conditions (mostly tungsten), the electronic shutter has some issues with discoloration. Fast moving objects have issues with rolling shutter when using the electronic shutter, which works row by row down the sensor. People walking or running is okay, vehicles in motion above 20-30kph, no. The mode selection dial on the front gets in the way sometimes and is only really is useful to me in either normal or mono, because I never use ooc jpegs anyway. The ooc jpegs are pretty okay though. You will probably need a soft release, if anything, just to improve the ergonomics of the shutter release button.
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May 20, 2016 18:03
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learnincurve posted:I'm not sure this is a great idea to be perfectly honest. I have the OM-D E-M5 and the X100 (the S is slightly faster with the autofocus) and the EM-5 with the Panasonic Leica 25mm ƒ/1.4 just blows it out of the water in every conceivable way. Oh oh! I must admit that the autofocus is a bit of a concern, because the X100S feels a bit sluggish compared to the OM-D. It is sexy though and the size is nice. I won't have to spend time wondering what kind of lens I should being along with me... But now you've got me worried (haven't gone through with the plan yet, though)! Xabi fucked around with this message at 13:39 on May 21, 2016 |
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May 20, 2016 18:11
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Animal posted:Fuji X-E2's can be had for under $200 used, plus the 35mm F2 (50mm equiv) when it comes on sale will total about $500. I'd be shocked to find an X-E2 for under $200 used; I'd buy that in a heartbeat if I could find it. An X-E1 at that price I could see.
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May 20, 2016 18:19
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Borachon posted:I'd be shocked to find an X-E2 for under $200 used; I'd buy that in a heartbeat if I could find it. An X-E1 at that price I could see. Sorry, I meant X-E1. Editing.
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May 20, 2016 18:21
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The e2 is nearly a new camera with the latest firmware the e1 doesn't get so it's not nearly as good. The viewfinder also lagged a bunch the time I tried one.
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May 20, 2016 20:04
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The X-E2 will be a better user experience with the EVF and AF improvements but the sensor changes are negligible between it and the X-E1.
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May 20, 2016 20:46
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Thanks all for the advice. They went ahead and ignored my advice and their budget and bought a brand new Sony a6000.
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May 21, 2016 10:38
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