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At DC. I was surprised to learn that Giraldez (infinity studio painter) actually barely does airbrushing on his minis at all and still brushes the vast majority of it. I'm thinking that since my overall goal in style is something similar to his when I push my blending technique, it'll be similar with the sparingly used airbrush too.
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May 22, 2016 19:09
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Chill la Chill posted:At DC. I was surprised to learn that Giraldez (infinity studio painter) actually barely does airbrushing on his minis at all and still brushes the vast majority of it. I'm thinking that since my overall goal in style is something similar to his when I push my blending technique, it'll be similar with the sparingly used airbrush too. That's essentially what I do, I have so much time invested in brush skills that a lot of the time airbrushing models is taking a step back. It's great for subtle effects, weathering, cracked and peeling paint, that sort of thing. I got to use the ultra-tiny Iwata airbrush for a while, and if I wanted to go whole-hog on minis I'd want to invest in one. The 400 dollar price tag gives me pause, however.
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May 22, 2016 19:32
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Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
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Here is what I did yesterday.  I haven't painted in a year or three, was a rookie even then, and was never very experienced doing relatively "normal" people, so I'm pretty satisfied with the results. I'm happy with Chisel, Flint, and Mallet (the center 3) but Honour (outside left) and Harmony (outside right) were nothing but frustration, mostly their faces. I don't have a lot of experience with faces, and I also thought I had accidentally washed out some of the detail when priming or something because they're almost featureless, like porcelain masks or something. Turns out that no, they're just kinda rubbish and even a more skilled painter seems to have trouble getting a result out of them:  So eventually I just gave up on those two's faces or else I'd be messing with them all day. Speaking of faces, after looking at a bunch of Mallets (right of the column) online, I'm apparently the only person who painted eyebrows on him. Oh well, it helps give his face detail. 
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May 22, 2016 19:42
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Looks good! Female faces often are pretty lacking in detail, because deep lines are going to make them look masculine, old, or stern. Painting them is about subtly defining features. That said, it's really best to worry about that later. Just keep working on defining highlights and shadows. Here's my honor from up thread Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Here's a thing I did:
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May 22, 2016 21:09
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Finished Kingdom Death Dragon King Tyrant
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May 23, 2016 00:08
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Looks good! That looks great.
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May 23, 2016 00:12
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Chill la Chill posted:At DC. I was surprised to learn that Giraldez (infinity studio painter) actually barely does airbrushing on his minis at all and still brushes the vast majority of it. I'm thinking that since my overall goal in style is something similar to his when I push my blending technique, it'll be similar with the sparingly used airbrush too. I sent you a PM. I have something that should work for what you need.
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May 23, 2016 00:26
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Did I ruin this yellow by washing it?
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May 23, 2016 01:53
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signalnoise posted:Did I ruin this yellow by washing it? Not necessarily. Giving yellow a wash can be tricky sometimes, as depending on the shade of yellow and the color of the wash it can either enhance details or make things look like a mess. In this case, I think it really just needs some line highlighting with yellow to bring it back up and help define the edges.
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May 23, 2016 02:00
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I'm going through the thread slowly, but I have a question. I want to play a game of Mansions of Madness for Halloween this year and I'm going to paint the monsters to help me get back in to painting. I haven't painted in 5-6 years, and that was just a pack of hormagaunts that I might be able to find somewhere... but I wanted to know if folks had suggestions for color schemes and paint brands that work well with Cthulhu mythos type monsters. If anyone has done these minis before and has tips they picked up that would be greatly appreciated as well
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May 23, 2016 02:47
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Eyes come with time. It will take a while. The best way I've done is to paint the entire eye black, then paint on two white lines in both sides. It helps prevent the tunnel vision effect. Love the dusty basing scheme.
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May 23, 2016 04:46
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I'm prepping a metal dragon mini with the view the oathing it. I think it has taken more time for me to put this thing together, sand it, and then fill the millions of holes I found than it will ever taken to paint it. This thing it pitted all the way across any smooth surface. I've basically had to reline its wings with milliput to fix them. I think the moment I've finished prepping this thing I'll use it as a boomerang.
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May 23, 2016 08:38
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Lethemonster posted:I think the moment I've finished prepping this thing I'll use it as a boomerang. But then you'll just have to prep it again! Really, though, the Oath Thread would love to see you return!
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May 23, 2016 12:36
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krushgroove posted:But then you'll just have to prep it again! Ive reached that point where I've put so much time into trying to fix up this stupid model that I can't stop until I've done it. I went to use my liquid greenstuff but its all dried up so I have finally resorted to thinning down white putty with acetone and resurfacing it with that. It currently looks like a rough mess but HOPEFULLY once fully dried I will be able to sand it smooth. I've got quite a few metal models I've avoided ever painting (like a bunch of the Sisters of Battle Stuff) purely because I found getting a smooth base so difficult on larger elements. Maybe all this fuss will mean I've finally got a quick and reliable method and I can start on those. Edit: gently caress this dragon and the holey wings it flew in on Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 16:16 on May 23, 2016 |
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May 23, 2016 15:46
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I am so excited about this 3D printer we got at work and really need to get back to teaching myself how to use Zbrush. I just printed out this gecko head I am going to cast and use a bunch of as gargoyles on this giant 4'x2.5'x7' reptile condo I built. It took me 4 years to get to this point from 3D scanning the geckos, getting an artist (from SA) to finish the rendering and then finding a printer of a good enough technology print out stuff for casting that I could either afford or get access to. The tech is here! So many plans for 10mm minis...
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May 23, 2016 19:32
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nesbit37 posted:I am so excited about this 3D printer we got at work and really need to get back to teaching myself how to use Zbrush. I just printed out this gecko head I am going to cast and use a bunch of as gargoyles on this giant 4'x2.5'x7' reptile condo I built. It took me 4 years to get to this point from 3D scanning the geckos, getting an artist (from SA) to finish the rendering and then finding a printer of a good enough technology print out stuff for casting that I could either afford or get access to. The tech is here! So many plans for 10mm minis... I am so jealous. I wish I had access to that kind of tech for modeling.
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May 23, 2016 20:10
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Wow, the scale detail on that is super-fine! Is your 3d printer an extruder or a stereolithographer?
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May 23, 2016 21:37
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Tonight I finally tried my airbrush. I'm glad I started out with spoons or that would have been 60% of my test models in simple green right now.
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May 23, 2016 21:41
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nesbit37 posted:I am so excited about this 3D printer we got at work and really need to get back to teaching myself how to use Zbrush. I just printed out this gecko head I am going to cast and use a bunch of as gargoyles on this giant 4'x2.5'x7' reptile condo I built. It took me 4 years to get to this point from 3D scanning the geckos, getting an artist (from SA) to finish the rendering and then finding a printer of a good enough technology print out stuff for casting that I could either afford or get access to. The tech is here! So many plans for 10mm minis... I shudder to imagine how much that 3D printer must cost. I haven't seen anything print that well, even from places like Shapeways.
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May 23, 2016 21:42
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Mango Polo posted:Tonight I finally tried my airbrush. I'm glad I started out with spoons or that would have been 60% of my test models in simple green right now. The learning curve is pretty steep but totally worth it in the end
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May 23, 2016 21:44
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Skarsnik posted:The learning curve is pretty steep but totally worth it in the end Sure seems so, because the spoons that worked are nice. What I learned: 20 psi is not 10-15 as suggested. Need to get over my tendency to spray too close.
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May 23, 2016 21:48
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And the great part is even if you're lovely at airbrushing, it's still nice for basecoats and priming
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May 23, 2016 22:11
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signalnoise posted:And the great part is even if you're lovely at airbrushing, it's still nice for basecoats and priming I thoroughly hosed up both The few successes though were encouraging. I'll keep practicing this before I move on to the clear paints part of my models.
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May 23, 2016 22:23
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I finished my first thing in like ten months!    I did go back right after taking these photos and cleaned the messiest highlights up a bit. I think it turned out rather decent, given that I'm both out of practice and weren't aiming for more than table top standard anyway.
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May 23, 2016 22:23
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Mango Polo posted:I thoroughly hosed up both That looks like the spoons were oily or something when you applied the paint
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May 23, 2016 22:27
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I need help with my first foray into airbrushing. I picked up a Badger Sotar 20/20 off of ebay that was listed in great, working condition. I got everything hooked up correctly, but when I went to test fire the airbrush with water in the pot(I wanted to make sure it worked properly before switching to paint) the airbrush barely sprayed anything, and instead blew the water out of the pot. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I have no experience with airbrushing, so before I attempted to take apart the airbrush and potentially break/lose something, I wanted to ask you guys if you knew what could be causing this. Modulating the air pressure only reduces how much it bubbles. The water that does come out seems spattery, rather than a nice spray. It is a gravity feed, dual action brush btw.
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May 23, 2016 22:37
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signalnoise posted:That looks like the spoons were oily or something when you applied the paint I checked out the rest of the spoons and it doesn't particularly feel like there's any grease on them. But I didn't wash them, which I probably should have. jadebullet posted:I need help with my first foray into airbrushing. I picked up a Badger Sotar 20/20 off of ebay that was listed in great, working condition. I got everything hooked up correctly, but when I went to test fire the airbrush with water in the pot(I wanted to make sure it worked properly before switching to paint) the airbrush barely sprayed anything, and instead blew the water out of the pot. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Oh I had that on my first go. My manual suggested tightening the air head and that did the job.
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May 23, 2016 22:40
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That reminds me, is there any viable way to scan a model then 3D print it in a different scale yet? It seems like a no-brainer, but I can't seem to find any consumer-facing 3D scanning services.
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May 23, 2016 22:44
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Mango Polo posted:I checked out the rest of the spoons and it doesn't particularly feel like there's any grease on them. But I didn't wash them, which I probably should have. Which part is the air head? The nozzle bit, or the part that the air line feeds into?
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May 23, 2016 22:51
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Probably looks different on the badger but:
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May 23, 2016 22:54
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No dice. I removed the needle and took apart the front section, cleaned up the inside of the pot and the paint tube with alcohol so it is very clean, put it back together and it is still blowing a poo poo ton of air out of the pot Edit: gently caress! went to screw the air head back on and the loving threading separated from the air head completely.
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May 23, 2016 23:06
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jadebullet posted:I need help with my first foray into airbrushing. I picked up a Badger Sotar 20/20 off of ebay that was listed in great, working condition. I got everything hooked up correctly, but when I went to test fire the airbrush with water in the pot(I wanted to make sure it worked properly before switching to paint) the airbrush barely sprayed anything, and instead blew the water out of the pot. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Let some airbrush thinner soak in the paint cup for half an hour or so, or use an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one. My favorite is to use cellulose thinner because it will eat away any paint. After a soak, flush out the cleaner and put in some fresh cleaner or water and see if it will spray. That may get you going at least, but the nozzle of the Sotar is so tiny you'll probably have to clean out the nozzle with thinner and a stiff paint brush,no matter what.
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May 23, 2016 23:12
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Is it ok to brush this stuff on since i dont have an airbursh? It says oil does that matter that its going on acrylic painted tiny spaceships? I dont know what im doing when it comes to varnish
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May 23, 2016 23:13
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zVxTeflon posted:Is it ok to brush this stuff on since i dont have an airbursh? It says oil does that matter that its going on acrylic painted tiny spaceships? I dont know what im doing when it comes to varnish That stuff is for oil paints. It's wax-based and would probably be okay, but I'd get a varnish meant for acrylic paint instead: http://www.dickblick.com/products/liquitex-gloss-and-matte-mediums/
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May 23, 2016 23:38
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Avenging Dentist posted:I shudder to imagine how much that 3D printer must cost. I haven't seen anything print that well, even from places like Shapeways. It's actually not as expensive as you would think (though I wouldn't call it cheap). This was done on the Formlabs Form 2 printer. Ilor posted:Wow, the scale detail on that is super-fine! Is your 3d printer an extruder or a stereolithographer? Stereolithography. This was printed at 25 microns.
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May 24, 2016 00:44
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Aw, he's fallen and he can't get up!
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May 24, 2016 01:25
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Awesome. Stereolithography is absolutely the way to go if you have the scratch to be able to afford it.
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May 24, 2016 01:26
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Brewsuke posted:Aw, he's fallen and he can't get up!
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May 24, 2016 01:27
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How well should primer stick to resin? I know on plastic, most primers actually dissolve the surface a bit so they stick really well, but that doesn't apply to resin. If it comes off after scraping as hard as I can with a fingernail, is that a problem? I waited about 3 hours before testing it. I ask because I have some resin that's a bit shiny, and I'm worried that the mold release leached into the resin. (I'm also doing some A/B tests to compare with non-shiny resin.) If it matters, I'm trying this with Tamiya Fine Grey Surface Primer. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 02:38 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 02:36
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Avenging Dentist posted:How well should primer stick to resin? I know on plastic, most primers actually dissolve the surface a bit so they stick really well, but that doesn't apply to resin. If it comes off after scraping as hard as I can with a fingernail, is that a problem? I waited about 3 hours before testing it. I ask because I have some resin that's a bit shiny, and I'm worried that the mold release leached into the resin. (I'm also doing some A/B tests to compare with non-shiny resin.) In my experience, primer sticks to resin better than metal, but not as good as it does on plastic. I've had it scrape off with a fingernail before from several different manufacturers so I think it's just a property of the primer not bonding as strong as it would on plastic. I assume you washed your models in warm soapy water, right?
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May 24, 2016 03:04
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