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oh my god 
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May 24, 2016 12:51
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triple clutcher posted:oh my god Seriously. I'm making all those stupid baby noises watching that thing play after being in such horrible shape. Dude, well done and even if you don't keep it, you've done an awesome thing.
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May 24, 2016 17:12
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sucks about the tires, but  I want to pet that kitten so badly right now
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May 24, 2016 17:19
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Thanks for the encouragement. He's still weak to walking, but is getting playful. He will just sit in a corner and hiss after you leave him alone for an hour or so, but it's easy to bring him out of it. He has teeth and he just pooped on his own, so I'm guessing three or four weeks old tops. No fleas or mange, though, so I don't think he's totally feral. Probably an abandoned box somewhere. E: VVVVVV somebody has forgotten about Doccers Buys a Volvo or the 5 ton, but tyia 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 20:09 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 19:31
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 Cat Savior I voted for your bus as my favorite AI car in the sheep game, good luck
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May 24, 2016 19:37
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You rule dude
Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 22:55 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 22:51
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I have a few new videos of the rescued kitten. First on the agenda is Rescued Kitten eats solid food for the first time. I think you'll enjoy it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aigshAindQ After that, we have scheduled the classic, Rescued Kitten Nom Noms. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4IC29GhMrs And finally, my favorite, Rescued Kitten Vigorously Plays https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDk3tlAPlBc I still don't have a name for the kitten. I was thinking Beetle, because I found him under my beetle. But the SO says that any name will get shortened, and Beetle would become Beets (like Legolas became Lego in everyday talk). I don't like beets, so maybe I don't like Beetle. Bebop? Then we could call him Bee. I dunno. Suggestions, people!
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May 25, 2016 11:02
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Bug or Bus!
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May 25, 2016 12:44
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scuz posted:Bug I vote this.
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May 25, 2016 13:00
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scuz posted:Bug
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May 25, 2016 13:04
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Bug sounds like a good name. Stretches out into "gently caress YOU YOU FURRY LITTLE ARSEHOLE FUCKSTAIN" nicely.
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May 25, 2016 14:16
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Geirskogul posted:I still don't have a name for the kitten. I was thinking Beetle, because I found him under my beetle. But the SO says that any name will get shortened, and Beetle would become Beets (like Legolas became Lego in everyday talk). I don't like beets, so maybe I don't like Beetle. Bebop? Then we could call him Bee. I dunno. Suggestions, people! Muir. There was a cat locally that got found in an engine bay of a truck heading into town. I suggested they call it Idler. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 14:59 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 14:57
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Seat Safety Switch posted:There was a cat locally that got found in an engine bay of a truck heading into town. I suggested they call it Idler. I love that. Either that, or "Fanbelt", but Idler is more clever, I think. For Geirskogul's kitty, I like Bug, too.
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May 25, 2016 15:59
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scuz posted:Bug or Bus! I like Bug the most (it could even be what you call him when Beetle is too long) but I would be in favor of any car related name.
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May 25, 2016 16:28
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I think his name should be Beetle but you only call him that when he's in trouble. Otherwise you call him Beety. Like Petey, but with a B.
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May 25, 2016 17:10
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You could call him Slash, or Ex, in appreciation of why you were outside to find him. 
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May 25, 2016 17:34
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Think I'll go with Bug, sounds good. Thanks for the suggestion. I want to start calling him by name soon, this is a critical period. I've already got him rubbing my finger as reward.
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May 25, 2016 21:25
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Geirskogul posted:I have too many cattes. Need to bring this one to a no-kill shelter once he's up and about. I take it this is no longer the case?
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May 25, 2016 21:46
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We don't know yet. I really don't want another catte, but we'll keep him if he has a good personality. She just wants another lap cat (it can be playful, of course) but if he's confrontational or angry then we'll do our best to tame him and send him on. I'm going to take some time to try to acclimate him to humans and being touched and picked up.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:21 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 23:19
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You should probably get him checked out for FIV and stuff before he interacts with your other cats, right?
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May 25, 2016 23:26
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That too, yeah.
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May 25, 2016 23:28
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I don't have time to work on the cars during the work week, but I do have time for kitten videos! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zu0zarUhoA4
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May 26, 2016 12:33
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It's amazing how cute murder can be.
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May 26, 2016 16:28
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Holy poo poo, you're right. He is murder. He gains energy by the day and never stops. Also, we settled on a name. Beetlezbub (Beetle or Bug for short, as that's what we'll actually call him). She wants to keep him, which is okay I guess. She was going to get a dog, but agreed to put the dog on the back burner until a cat kicks it to keep numbers down, which I'm okay with. Two cats just hit 10 years old. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pugh_PHwxG0 Anyway, I'm working on "reliabilizing" the bus. It has excellent (80+) PSI oil pressure idling when cold, and maintains 40+ PSI on the freeway at 55-60, so about 12PSI/1000RPM, which is above the 10PSI/1kRPM service limit, even when hot. However, after it gets toasty, about 220*F Oil temp, the pressure at idle drops to or near zero according to the gauge. Of course, the oil pressure sender I have is a VDO, and allegedly pops the oil light at 6 PSI while the stock sender popped the light at 1.8 PSI. And the light is popping on with the gauge saying near zero instead of 6, so the gauge is probably just a "best guess" window. With the stock sender I never got an oil light issue, even when driving down from Oregon during the road trip. Around town I'll only have the light flicker on at stop lights, but a quick tap of the gas pedal to raise the RPM to 800-900 or so will usually keep it from coming on. After a freeway drive the oil light will definitely light at the first stoplight or two, but after cooling off for a mile or so it usually stays off. I know that this engine is very wheezy and old, and is probably a "garage floor special" gauging by the mismatching heads and dissimilar levels of rust on the engine tins, so I can't hope for a miracle. However, after entirely too many hours and days of research, I've decided to throw a new oil pump on. The "common theory" is that the stock oil pump is a cast iron Schadek pump, in the aluminum or magnesium alloy block. The difference in expansion between the aluminum and the cast iron increases clearances, leading to okay oil pressure when the revs are up, but poor pressure at idle as oil leaks around the pump housing. There aren't many (or really, any without core) sources of stock oil pumps. But a few companies, including CB Performance, make modified aluminum Type 1 oil pumps that are clearanced to fit the cam of the Type 4 engine. For $80, it's not the biggest risk I have taken before, and worst-case it should flow just a bit more oil than the stock pump. The stock pump has 24mm oil pump gears, and this aftermarket has 26.   I had to wait for this to go back in stock, as it seems that CB Performance is the only supplier that currently has any (though all the usual sites have listings for their own versions of pump replacements).
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May 27, 2016 11:12
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Where is the oil pressure being measured from right now? I've seen some guys introduce restrictions into oil flow to try and raise pressure, but that seems like a hackjob that will bite you in the rear end eventually.
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May 27, 2016 16:08
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Oil pressure is being measured from the stock sender location, which (IIRC) is right on the oil pressure regulator/bypass line, after the filter. Lemme see if I can find a picture.
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May 27, 2016 19:00
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 I've already replaced the cooler because the old one was weeping. Also, it looks like a bad (too loose) valve adjustment can lower pressure, but I do the valves pretty regularly. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 19:06 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 19:03
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Baww, kitty Geirskogul, my galpal wants an old Beetle for her next car and I haven't a clue what to put on my checklist when looking at Beetles. Could I arse you to write up a doesn't-have-to-be-very-long list of dealbreakers that would save me a lot of time? Buying old cars in Minnesota is like riding a po-go stick through a minefield.
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May 27, 2016 19:38
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14 and ultimateforce would probably be better than me. I merely accepted the darkness. 14 inch was born into it, molded by it. That said, take an awl with you, and poke at the heater channels (rocker/running boards). Any softness is a full body-off, 2-weeks-with-a-welder situation. Also with post-68 (IIRC) cars, the same goes for right behind the rear windows to the C-pillars. VW added vents there, but the cavity is filled with foam and collects moisture.
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May 27, 2016 20:26
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Now that I'm on a computer, here's my short list of things that I know to look for, without googling, that would be a dealbreaker for me: Dealbreakers: Heater channel rust (check with awl) 1970+ ones with quarter panel rust behind the window crescent vents (check with awl) Package tray (area behind rear seat) rust (check with awl) Floor pan rust that isn't under the battery (under the rear seat). Patch kits are common for the battery area, and a lot don't even need welding (rivets and 3M seam seal are okay). Other areas are verboten. Check endplay on the engine. Open the engine bay, grab the big crank pulley, and pull and push it backwards and forwards. If you feel any movement, walk (unless you plan on rebuilding the engine soon, which I guess is P easy on an ACVW). Things that aren't immediate dealbreakers, but are things you should notice: Check to make sure the engine has all of the tins on it. An engine without tins (you can see through from the top to the street ANYWHERE) has been overheated at least some of its life. No es bueno. Make sure they at least have an air filter (a lot do velocity stacks). The upright engine ALWAYS had a single carb on it from factory, and dual-carb setups mean modification, which can be good or bad. The single carb and shorter runners give plenty of power for the engine design. Dual carbs on a project often mask other problems with tuning or valve issues that they're masking with fuel and air. Chrome EMPI poo poo on everything isn't a dealbreaker, but...yeah. Make sure that the heads match. I mean, the ones on my beetle's engine don't (one is a german OE head, one is a brazilian head) but I'm 100% sure that the beetle engine was (like with the bus) a floor sweep special. For instance, it has 1600DP (dual-port) heads, but didn't have a doghouse (external-ish) oil cooler, which always IIRC came with the 1600DP engine. Summary: If it starts easily and runs FROM COLD, and continues to run when hot without the oil light coming on, has no perceptible end-play, and doesn't have rust in those areas mentioned, then you're on a good trail. Update on the tire slashing, too! I just got a postcard from PD saying they've assigned a detective to the thing, and they need a receipt or estimate for the repair bill. That makes me happy.
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May 28, 2016 11:32
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Going out to replace the oil pump, which on a bus involves removing the fan shroud (again) and entire rear engine mount (again). If I'm not back in ten hours, send beer.
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May 28, 2016 21:12
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Guys nobody sent beer and I'm really disappointed in your search and Anyway, today took a lot longer than expected, but it always does. So maybe I should expect that. Whatever, onwards! I replaced the oil pump. As stated earlier, I was getting amazing pressure when cold, and okay pressure revving hot, but crap pressure idling hot. I haven't gotten this new pump up to temp yet to see if it's better than stock, but if it is AT LEAST as good as stock, I'll keep it and sell the stock (and therefore verified good) pump on ebay. They go for insane prices, sometimes much higher than the $80 (with gaskets) I paid for this aftermarket one. You can't even find any active or completed ebay listings for a stock (type 4, not modified type 1) oil pump, and prices in stores for remanufactured ones are upwards of $250 plus a $40-50 core charge. For awhile it looks like they spiked to over $300 even used. I always start a disassembly with these little organizer bins for bolts and nuts. They're $4 at Harbor Freight and are actually amazingly durable  Then, I assumed the position (sitting on a box as a stool, engine hatch open) and started disassembling the fan shroud. It's either this or drop the engine.   Removing more parts  Here's the CB Performance oil pump. It's a modified Schadek type 1 oil pump, with a longer crank key and clearance machining so it doesn't foul on the cam gear bolts.   Oil pump removed! After removing the four nuts holding it on, you have to loosen the case stud bolts above and below the pump, or it will never come out. It's an interference fit when the halves are put together.    Comparison with the new pump.  You can see the longer key  While cleaning off the old gasket, I hit Major Snag #1. The razor blade I was scraping the gasket with bounced out of my hand and INTO THE ENGINE, underneath the crank bolt. Thankfully it's an aluminum block, because otherwise I would have been screwed, and would have needed to drop and split the engine. In a townhouse without a garage, that is no es bueno.  New oil pump going in. Before putting the cover on, I spun the engine by hand and verified that the oil pump gears turned.   While I was down there, I installed the Fumoto oil drain valve that's been sitting on my outdoor table for honestly two months.   Note for those that may stumble upon this: if you buy the Fumoto brand valve, you have to use a grinder or dremel ever so slightly to remove maybe 1-1.25mm of material off of the top of the valve housing. The oil drain bolt on the VW Type 4 is recessed into some pretty beefy aluminum housing and it fouls and won't tighten all the way down if you don't. Now, no pictures of Major Snag #2, because I was panicking. You may notice above that I neglected to mention packing the oil pump with grease, so it wasn't primed. After the 1.5 hour reassembly process (including filling with oil, and pre-filling the oil filter), I cranked the engine over without the distributor, and failed to see any oil pressure. Cue me freaking out and trying everything under the sun to troubleshoot this no oil pressure problem. After looking over the oiling diagram I posted earlier, I came up with two options: remove the oil sender and pour oil down there to prime the pump, or overfill the oil and jack the front of the bus up to flood the pump. I tried the first option, but the sender I installed is NPT threaded and was refusing to come out. So I tried option #2, but I modified it a bit so I took the oil filter off and put a new oil pan underneath, and cranked the engine over without the spark plugs in. After what seemed like way too long (30 seconds to a minute of cranking time easy, in increments) oil started spuring out into the pan. So I reinstalled the filter, and was happy to find the bus building oil pressure even while cranking. I reinstalled the distributor, static-timed it (still need to really time it tomorrow), and it fired up with excellent pressure even before the spark really caught. There was a moment of small panic when the engine wouldn't fire, but I had forgotten to plug the fuel pump back in. By the time all of this was over, the sun had fallen. I didn't want to bother the neighbors because it was after 2030, so I finished up the only other silent project on the plate for today, the carburetor linkage. The carb has been working just fine (barring some cold-bloodedness, but it's a progressive carb with 16 inches of intake runners, so that is expected), and I've been getting a consistent 17MPG. But I had to bodge together a linkage because the one that was on it was set up for a passenger-side throttle cable, and mine is in the stock driver's side configuration. The throttle cable has been sticky and inconsistent, and I've had the linkage hang up on things. To get it to return to idle speed, I had also bodged up (not pictured) a 14" spring going all the way up to the ceiling of the engine compartment! Those of you with weak stomachs and an intolerance for buzzbox welding, look away now:  The kit I bought, because it is actually designed and engineered instead of whacked together, has pretty much solved all of my throttle cable issues that I could test for in 20 minutes on side streets. It also doesn't bind, so I can finally fine-tune the idle settings. The speed screw actually does something now!    (blurry, sorry) And, as what I hope to be a sign of good luck, the mileage on the odo after running around the block a few times. 
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May 29, 2016 05:40
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OKAY THIS HAS BEEN A COMEDY OF GODDAMNED ERRORS Thinking I had done well today with the oil pump replacement on the bus, I decided to take it out to the local gas station to pick up some mixers for the rum I have. I get to the Circle K, and notice that I'm leaving a trail, and there is a gigantic puddle of oil underneath the bus. A quick peek underneath makes it look like it's from the new oil pump area, but that area is blocked by the engine mount bar and other things. Since I'm already there, with no additional oil on hand, I check the level and it's good (I had overfilled it earlier, remember?). So I get the sodas, and drive very swiftly (but in the highest gear possible to reduce RPM without lugging it) back home, turning it off at stoplights, etc. I get home, and you can clearly see the trail I've left. So, I run in quickly to get the oil drip pan and throw it under there. After that, I grab the sodas, and start to head inside. The bag breaks, both 2-liters fall, and BOTH of them explode. Not out of the cap, but down the sides of the bottle. I still have a can of pineapple juice, so I go inside and throw a couple of ice cubes in a glass. Then I pour in some 151 (because rum and pineapple juice is terrible, I'd guess), and the pineapple juice. The ice cracks from the warm juice, and shatters the glass. 
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May 29, 2016 08:31
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Geirskogul posted:Guys nobody sent beer and I'm really disappointed in your search and Hey now, I was in Eloy for a wedding & then Casa Grande for the reception (Catholic + Mexican = all day event) and didn't even see your prior message until just now. Sucks that your day went that way, hope you find a relatively simple/easy fix. Reminds me that I need to change my oil tomorrow, down to about 15% life.
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May 29, 2016 08:37
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Drunk note for myself for tomorrow (because I have mixed as much 151 into pineapple juice as I can because gently caress today). Remove muffler Remove exhaust (take this chance to reseal exhaust - it is leaking from somewhere<s>) Remove engine mount bar REMOVE THE GODDAMNED OIL PUMP WITHOUT REMOVING THE FAN SHROUD gently caress THE GODDAMNED FAN SHROUD DO YOU KNOW HOW MANY TIMES I HAD TO BACKSPACE AND CORRECT THIS POST BECAUSE I REFUSE TO LEAVE MISSPELLED DRUNK POSTS?!
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May 29, 2016 09:47
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poo poo I NEED TO GO SPRAY DEEP CREEP ON THE EXHAUST
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May 29, 2016 10:38
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Okay, I'm on my first water break (take 10-15 minutes every hour to sit inside and cool off and drink water). I already have the exhaust and engine mount off, and am tracking down the source of the leak. I think it is just the oil pump wasn't tightened down, but I'm going to remove the bolts it came with and add washers, just to be sure. When I remove the bolts, I'm going to spray out the bolt holes in the block with carb cleaner to make sure there isn't any gunk in there. I might even hit them with some Q-tips. Just like half of the things on The Samba, they're wrong about oil pump removal. Every guide and post says to remove the fan shroud, but it's 99% easier to just remove the exhaust and engine mount bar completely. You can see in the earlier pictures that you're still fighting with the inner fan shroud going from the top. Going the exhaust route is also like half of the bolts, and access to the oil pump is MUCH better. I've also discovered that every single exhaust port is only held on by one bolt, because the PO has broken off one stud for every port. Oh well - I'll deal with that on reinstallation.
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May 29, 2016 23:39
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No pictures because gently caress Today, but here's a summary of what I had to do. -Remove 2x lower tinware, 4 cheese head screws each (8 fasteners) -Remove rear muffler, 5 nuts (should be six, one broken off stud), (13 fasteners) -Remove exhaust manifolds. Should be 4x fasteners each, but both sides have a broken off stud, so 6x total. (19 fasteners) -Remove Rear Engine Mount, 2x bolts/nuts each side. Engine rests on rubber pads, no bolts there (23 fasteners) -Remove bolts from oil pump. Two bottom ones come out fine, but you need to dremel or grind out a TINY bit of the rear of the fan shroud boss to get the top two bolts. 4x bolts (27 fasteners total, not including hose clamps) I then, without removing the oil pump, cleaned out the bolt holes for the oil pump. I also had a Dorman Help! metric Grade 8 bolt kit, and it came with very thick washers. So I used those new M8x1.25 bolts and thick washers in the newly-cleaned holes. I think that the problem before is the bolts were bottoming out RIGHT BEFORE fully tightening down the pump. Hopefully this will fix it. I ran the engine for maybe 15-30 seconds with the exhaust off to see if there were any obvious oil leaks, and didn't see anything, but I didn't rev the engine to build the highest pressure at all because it was super loud and I didn't want to piss off the neighbors. Right now the bus is sitting outside and I'm letting the sealant cure on the exhaust system before I run it. The exhaust is full of cracks and holes and I just wanted to do the best I could on short, $free notice to make it a tiny bit better.
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May 30, 2016 05:33
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You named him, now he's yours. Well, technically, goons named him. So you have to sprinkle car updates with Bug updates, or we shan't be satisfied. Anyway, here's good wishes for you, your cars, and Bug! I can't really follow the car stuff, but I hope it is better? I do not understand such things, yo.
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May 30, 2016 18:46
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Welp, throught I was done with the bus, with nearly no oil leak, but one of the remaining exhaust studs stripped out. Time to go buy some EZ-Lok kits, and drive the beetle until I do so.
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May 30, 2016 21:50
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