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Dogen posted:In my day we trained our homing pigeons to deliver CD-Rs and that's the way we liked it No joke, my first job involved burning CD-R's on a 4x writer for use as a backup and project-library. It was the most mind-numbing task ever.
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 00:05 |
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Need some advice. Concerning VPN would it be better to 1) Have the router connect to the VPN and handle all connections inside my network or 2) Configure each device seperatly to use VPN. The issue is some devices that need VPN I am not sure they will be able to handle doing that kind of encryption (on the lines of RaspberryPi ) Googleplex) Configure the router to check a whitelist and know to VPN some devices but not the others.
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Eletriarnation posted:Maybe. If it's SFP+ then it will run at 10Gbps, but if it's just regular SFP then all you get by running fiber (assuming the rest of the switch is gigabit) is that you can connect at longer distances than copper cable will reliably work at. Unless it specifically says "SFP+" or "10GBase-*" somewhere then it's probably the latter. So for a home use situation, they're pretty unnecessary then? Every device I'll be plugging in will be within ethernet range and I don't need a trunk to another switch in my garage or anything like that.
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GobiasIndustries posted:So for a home use situation, they're pretty unnecessary then? Every device I'll be plugging in will be within ethernet range and I don't need a trunk to another switch in my garage or anything like that.
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Eletriarnation posted:Yeah, that's easy to do. You just plug your incoming connection into one of the LAN ports instead of the WAN port and then you can use the other LAN ports for switching. Some devices have an option to use the WAN port in bridged mode with the rest which will give you +1 ports total, but if not just don't use it. Make sure that your N600 doesn't have a DHCP server running unless you want it to be the DHCP server (and in that case disable DHCP on whatever is doing the routing) and make sure that it's not trying to use the same IP as the router if you tend to use .1 or whatever. You can set it to get any other IP that's excluded from the DHCP-served range, or DHCP client if it supports that on the LAN interface - most consumer routers don't. Thanks, that was super easy. My mistake was leaving the ethernet cable from the router in the WAN port.
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I use a PFSense box for my router and have always relied on RRD Graphs to monitor my bandwidth. The other day I upgraded to Pfsense 2.3. It appears the RRD Graph code was rewritten and the majority of features were removed/neutered. The graphs no longer show bandwidth used. Is there another package that I can install on PfSense to monitor bandwidth? Or 3rd party code I can run? Looking at the forums it appears they're not going to re-add the feature and downgrading appears to be really difficult ![]()
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Dogen posted:In my day we trained our homing pigeons to deliver CD-Rs and that's the way we liked it You kids and your fancy CD-Rs. In my day we carried punch cards uphill in the snow, both ways. And we liked it.
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EVIL Gibson posted:Need some advice. Concerning VPN would it be better to Option 1 will generally be less work because you only have to configure one thing on each end of the tunnel. But then you need to worry about the routers being able to handle the work of doing the encryption. The Edgerouter Lite has hardware acceleration for IPSec and pfSense is able to use Intel's AES-NI instruction set to hardware accelerate AES in IPSec and OpenVPN. The whitelist you are describing could be achieved with static IPs on the LAN and configuring the tunnel's encryption domain/interesting traffic list to only contain the hosts you wanted to participate in the tunnel. Just remember to use a different IP range on both sides of the tunnel so routing works properly. Antillie fucked around with this message at 15:30 on May 23, 2016 |
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Antillie posted:You kids and your fancy CD-Rs. In my day we carried punch cards uphill in the snow, both ways. And we liked it. It was great fun when you dropped a stack and they scattered on the floor losing any semblance of order.
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Ynglaur posted:It was great fun when you dropped a stack and they scattered on the floor losing any semblance of order. It was great fun when the reflective layer delaminated from the top of the disc.
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Antillie posted:According to their user manuals the EX6200 and EX6100 both tick pretty much all of your boxes. Although it looks like NAT is optional and while they can do NAT when using wifi as their WAN connection I am not sure if they can do NAT when using a wired WAN connection (and thus act as a slightly more expensive wifi router). It looks like they even remember the different wifi networks they have previously connected to in the WAN settings. Hmm, that EX6200 looks pretty cool, but can it actually separate / firewall off the other devices? Barring that, I'm pretty sure DD-WRT/OpenWRT can do this type of work, but I'm not sure what the latest / greatest platform + hardware to install them on is -- seems like manufacturers are stepping up their OEM firmware game.
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movax posted:Hmm, that EX6200 looks pretty cool, but can it actually separate / firewall off the other devices? I'm not sure if it acts as a firewall or if its just doing NAT with no actual security. Stateful inspection isn't usually requirement for a range extender so I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't bother with it. The EX6200 can supposedly run DD-WRT though.
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Antillie posted:I'm not sure if it acts as a firewall or if its just doing NAT with no actual security. Stateful inspection isn't usually requirement for a range extender so I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't bother with it. The EX6200 can supposedly run DD-WRT though. Eh, NAT is probably good enough(TM) to deter the casual person from hijacking a Chromecast to display whatever they want (probably) -- seems like the most expedient way for Chromecast "security" is to remove the ability to be on the same network as it. ![]() Amazon return policies are pretty decent I suppose, I"ll just order it and gently caress around with it.
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For anyone else using pfsense with PFBlockerNG and DNSBL, avoid using the someonewhocares feed if you're importing blocklists. The SWC list blocks NCSI, so any Windows 7+ machine will continually pop up a notice that you need to log in and it'll give a notification that you have no internet access. Figured I'd mention it as the SWC list is one of the recommended ones on the PFBlockerNG DNSBL Feeds import page. Network-wide ad-blocking is kinda neat otherwise.
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2 out of the 4 ports on my router just died. Tried a few different cables with different computers and they don't have any connection but the other 2 work fine. So I need a new router (Current one is a WRT54G2). Looking over the OP I just want to ask if those Archer routers are still the go-to buys. And while I'm at it I'll like to get a new modem as well. Current one (SB5101) is a bit old.
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tonic posted:I use a PFSense box for my router and have always relied on RRD Graphs to monitor my bandwidth. The other day I upgraded to Pfsense 2.3. It appears the RRD Graph code was rewritten and the majority of features were removed/neutered. The graphs no longer show bandwidth used. They actually can, but the way you find it is kind of weird. Go to Status > Monitoring, click the wrench in the top-right, and change left axis to traffic. There's also an RRD Summary package that will go through and add up all your usage for the current month and the prior one, if that's easier.
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Out of curiosity Iīd like to check the actual speed of my wired network that I installed in my house. Whatīs the best program for doing this ?
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So I take it the recommendation is always going to be a Edgerouter over whatever equivalents comes under the Unifi moniker, and I'll just have to get over any spergsness with the greyed out wan/LAN symbols on my UAP controller page?
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MeKeV posted:So I take it the recommendation is always going to be a Edgerouter over whatever equivalents comes under the Unifi moniker, and I'll just have to get over any spergsness with the greyed out wan/LAN symbols on my UAP controller page? I'd say the Unifi Security Gateway may be easier to use particularly if you have a remote site that you have to administer, but at the cost of having fewer features and less flexibility for the more obscure configuration options.
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Arvid posted:Out of curiosity Iīd like to check the actual speed of my wired network that I installed in my house. Whatīs the best program for doing this ? iperf always works for me.
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Digital Jedi posted:2 out of the 4 ports on my router just died. Tried a few different cables with different computers and they don't have any connection but the other 2 work fine. So I need a new router (Current one is a WRT54G2). Looking over the OP I just want to ask if those Archer routers are still the go-to buys. The OP was recently updated so all of its recommendations are current.
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MeKeV posted:So I take it the recommendation is always going to be a Edgerouter over whatever equivalents comes under the Unifi moniker, and I'll just have to get over any spergsness with the greyed out wan/LAN symbols on my UAP controller page? The ERL is literally the same hardware as a Unifi Security Gateway. The gateway costs more and trades some features and flexibility for centralized management via the controller. So the ERL is cheaper and does more while being the same hardware. This makes the ERL plain superior for home use where centralized management just isn't that important.
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Viper_3000 posted:iperf always works for me. I prefer to use something a little more real world like SCP or Samba. But iperf usually works fine too. For most people I think copying a large file between windows shares (samba) is probably the easiest and most accurate test. People with Macs can use SCP on the command line.
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Antillie posted:I prefer to use something a little more real world like SCP or Samba. But iperf usually works fine too. In many cases, SCP and SMB test your machine's performance more than the networks, since your CPU, storage, and system bus can easily bottleneck your test.
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Kreeblah posted:They actually can, but the way you find it is kind of weird. Go to Status > Monitoring, click the wrench in the top-right, and change left axis to traffic. There's also an RRD Summary package that will go through and add up all your usage for the current month and the prior one, if that's easier. Yeah, I realize traffic is still there, but it doesn't add it up to show how much bandwidth has been used on a daily/monthly/yearly/etc basis, it just shows a graph of throughput that no longer auto-updates. I'll look for the RRD Summary package and give that a try as that sounds exactly like what I'm looking for. Thanks! EDIT: Installed the 'summary' package. Definitely does what I want it, though very simplified compared to the old RRD Graphs. Hopefully they decide to bring back some of the old features that made RRD so great. Sample RRD Summary: ![]() Thanks for your help! tonic fucked around with this message at 17:45 on May 24, 2016 |
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Anyone know why my Linksys WRT1900AC admin would only show Wireless, Troubleshooting and Connectivity opens on the left hand menu? There is basically no useful settings in any of them, and I can't forward ports. It would appear as though there should be several more menu options, one being Security which would let me forward ports, but it's not there.. Kinda weird. Edit: Now that I think about it, would all of these options be hidden if the router was in bridge mode? I have a modem/router combo from TWC that I tried to just setup to pass through to the linksys, but it wouldn't work properly, my house phone (yeah I have one...) wouldn't work after etc. So basically the cable modem/router gives the linksys an IP address and then the linksys router supplies connectivity both wired and wireless, with wireless being disabled on the TWC modem/router combo unit. That said, I guess I could just login to the modem and forward ports there, but I wanted to control everything on my linksys ![]() thebushcommander fucked around with this message at 21:36 on May 24, 2016 |
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thebushcommander posted:Anyone know why my Linksys WRT1900AC admin would only show Wireless, Troubleshooting and Connectivity opens on the left hand menu? There is basically no useful settings in any of them, and I can't forward ports. It would appear as though there should be several more menu options, one being Security which would let me forward ports, but it's not there.. Kinda weird. Sounds like you're not using the Linksys for anything more than a glorified switch/AP, so yeah, you're going to need to forward those ports using the router on your TWC gear which I assume is acting as your router.
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CrazyLittle posted:In many cases, SCP and SMB test your machine's performance more than the networks, since your CPU, storage, and system bus can easily bottleneck your test. I have gotten substantially higher bandwidth results copying large files over SMB than by using iperf when measuring performance of the wireless portion of my home network. I am not sure why this has been the case.
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iperf isn't a Windows socket native optimized app, it uses BSD sockets so better in Unix land. If you want full cheating Windows performance use ttcp, but do not misinterpret the results as achievable by any real app.
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MrMoo posted:iperf isn't a Windows socket native optimized app, it uses BSD sockets so better in Unix land. If you want full cheating Windows performance use ttcp, but do not misinterpret the results as achievable by any real app. Yeah, this is kinda what I'm getting at in a nutshell. If you're really trying to hammer the networking portion, you have to pretty much "cheat" the system that you're running the tests on in order to eliminate system packet processing etc from the test. Use multiple threads, large TCP windows, jumbo frames etc.
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Using iperf on two computers in my network I was able to get speeds of around 900-930 mbits/sec (I didnīt study any of the options available, just host option on one and client on the other). I guess thatīs pretty normal speed for a wired network with cat6 cabling ?
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You should be able to hit (edit) yup goofy conversions. MrMoo fucked around with this message at 00:27 on May 26, 2016 |
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MrMoo posted:You should be able to hit 1,200 mb/s with great hardware so something is holding you back. The fastest router that smallnetbuilder tested didn't crack 930 mbit which makes sense if you consider overhead so I'm not sure what you're saying here. http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/tools/charts/router/view So I guess I disagree and say that other dude has about the fastest he can expect and I'm not sure how you got that number unless you're doing some kinda goofy bits to bytes conversion.
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MrMoo posted:You should be able to hit 1,200 mb/s with great hardware so something is holding you back. You can't physically go faster than 1000mbit/sec on a gigabit network. Just sayin'
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Newegg has a new 802.11ad router out today. I hadn't really heard of it but apparently AD is on a 60Ghz band that's high bandwidth but doesn't really penetrate walls: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704301 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_Gigabit_Alliance I guess it might be useful for an extremely specific case. At least it may be when there's devices that use it shipping and people are still afraid of wires.
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I always thought that was aimed more toward wireless desktop scenarios and wireless laptop docks; not actually for wireless network connections. I guess some dummies will buy it because MOAR BIGGAR MBPS but I'm not even sure what you'd connect it to.
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Krailor posted:MOAR BIGGAR MBPS but I'm not even sure what you'd connect it to. another tplink flashed with dd-wrt and placed in bridge mode. ![]()
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CrazyLittle posted:another tplink flashed with dd-wrt and placed in bridge mode. Joking aside, this is pretty much the right answer (although I didn't know people still installed dd-wrt on like new hardware). When AC was really new and nothing had the radios, Netgear put out a media bridge that you could put in the living room and use as a wirelessly connected switch to hook up all the junk in your media cabinet. It worked pretty well from what I recall, so I'm surprised there isn't something similar here.
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I have an EdgeRouter Lite serving as a DHCP server. When setting up my UniFi APs using the UniFi Controller software, there's an option to enable/disable DHCP server under Settings > Network. Should this be left off or on?
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 00:05 |
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mediaphage posted:Joking aside, this is pretty much the right answer (although I didn't know people still installed dd-wrt on like new hardware). When AC was really new and nothing had the radios, Netgear put out a media bridge that you could put in the living room and use as a wirelessly connected switch to hook up all the junk in your media cabinet. It worked pretty well from what I recall, so I'm surprised there isn't something similar here. Under no circumstances should you flash a 802.11ad device with dd-wrt. This will probably stay true for quite a while too. Ynglaur posted:I have an EdgeRouter Lite serving as a DHCP server. When setting up my UniFi APs using the UniFi Controller software, there's an option to enable/disable DHCP server under Settings > Network. Should this be left off or on? The "network definitions" part of the UniFi Controller is for a UniFi Security Gateway and has no effect on your ER-Lite. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 20:37 on May 26, 2016 |
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