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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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May 27, 2016 01:25
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If you're only hauling on the floor, ok. But the xB wasn't designed with shelving in mind, so kits are rare and expensive and not solid. Even the HHR had a panel van version with mount stock and commercial-use-designed wiring tubes. (DON'T buy an HHR, just an example). Also, used xBs are generally thrashed by the PO, unless it's a second gen which were owned exclusively by old people and never go for sale.
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May 27, 2016 02:23
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Extra posted:other than it being ugly as gently caress is there anything wrong with a scion XB used to haul around a bunch of tools and get good MPG? It is completely breathless. The tiny engine gets good MPG only if you don't have more than 200lb of cargo, including driver. With four adults and some luggage, we were struggling for 26MPG city.
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May 27, 2016 02:28
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Extra posted:other than it being ugly as gently caress is there anything wrong with a scion XB used to haul around a bunch of tools and get good MPG? It carries a reasonable amount, but it doesn't really get good mileage. Also not especially comfortable.
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May 27, 2016 02:47
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PaintVagrant posted:On a scale from biturbo to tractor, how reliable/simple are late model ford ranger V6 engines? Both the 3.0 and 4.0 seem like wet turds as far as power and mpg, but I'm looking at used ones and want to know when the mileage is considered "high". The 3.0 is gutless (seriously just get the 4 cylinder instead, close to the same power and much better MPG), but will run forever. The 4.0 has decent power, but opt for the pushrod OHV version of the 4.0; the SOHC version has a downright stupid timing chain setup (3 timing chains... one of them is on the firewall side of the engine, and that's the one that often seems to need attention). I believe they moved to the SOHC version for the 2000 model year on the Ranger. So if you go for a 4.0 V6, try for 99 or older.
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May 27, 2016 08:58
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07 Accord V6 auto, 93k miles Symptoms: 1) Check engine light on for a day a week ago, back on now 2) OBD codes 0135 0155 (O2 sensors) 0641 ('Sensor Reference Voltage 'A' Malfunction') 3) After driving, engine shuts off when I turn off the headlights. Happened twice this morning at the end of my trips, but when I restarted I could turn the lights on and off without the engine dying. I haven't tried this while driving for obvious reasons. So yeah, electrical issue. Last week it happened after it had been raining for a few days, so I was wondering if there might be water leaking into a wiring harness or something like that, but I'm not sure where to start looking or if this above my (meager but able to follow directions/Youtube videos) diagnostic skills.
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May 27, 2016 15:02
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Safety Dance posted:The 3.0 is a Ford Vulcan, and it's about as mechanically complicated as a cave person bashing two rocks together. I don't know about the 4.0. Keep it well oiled and it'll go forever. I put 300,000 on my Sport Trac before I sold it. The transmission was on the way out (solenoid) but I'm pretty sure towing a 10,000lb trailer to NY and back a couple of times had something to do with it. The 4.0 is a lot better than the 3.0, but it's still a turd. Managed to keep up with traffic though.
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May 27, 2016 15:42
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I can't figure out how to put my car on jack stands. Below is the only page in the owner's manual I can locate about lifting the car. It's got clear points for where to use the jack, which is fine and good. But once I jack the car up, how do I put it on stands? I'm trying to get all four wheels off at once, so lifting from the left and putting the stand under the right doesn't quite accomplish what I need it to. Youtube hasn't been useful either. 08 Cayman. 
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May 27, 2016 17:11
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So I drove 3½ hours to see an Alfa 156 today and on outside inspection it was in very good condition (found no rust at all, and I was pretty thorough) except for some minor cosmetic stuff, even less stone chips than on our 2014 car. So far so good. But when we went for a test drive my first reaction was "Woah this engine / exhaust is loud as hell", but then when I accelerated up to motorway speeds (worst when accelration) there was a very loud drone. I couldn't hear what my dad sitting in the back seat was saying to me, and to be honest, after I few minutes I felt drained. My girlfriend noticed it too and was annoyed by it. So I tried to pin point what the sound could be caused by and put the clutch in at different speeds, which did nothing to change the sound. It was 100% dependent on the speed we were going, with the exception that it got worse when accelerating. The owner said that he never noticed it (which is pretty insane, but could be because it's slowy been getting worse) and that it's been the same sound since he got it 5 years ago. So we swapped places and I sat in the front passanger seat and it was just as clear but I now noticed pretty heavy vibrations from the the floor panel where I had the feet (pretty far up forward), which got much worse (as with the sound) when he accelerated hard. It was so loud that I couldn't hear the engine rev, and that's even with a "sportier" exhaust fitted. We had some theories and I guessed that it must be wheel bearing, drive shafts or gearbox/flywheel since it wasn't dependent on engine revs, but vehicle speed. No change in sound when turning, and was only silent at very low speeds. I walked away because I reasoned that I don't want to pay for an already overpriced car where I then have to fix a sound like that. Also I don't think I could have drived 3½ back with that sound without stopping to take breaks. Anyone have any ideas? Not going to buy it but it'll be good to have an idea what the hell it could be if I even encounter it again.
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May 27, 2016 19:09
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Yeah, sounds like a wheel bearing. But, like you said, could be a lot of things. But that sounds exactly like what bad wheel bearings do.
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May 27, 2016 19:36
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Even with the sound coming from the middle front, and there was no change in sound when turning the car? If it's "only" bearing I probably could have changed them pretty cheap, but like I said, I don't think I could have driven for 3½H with that sound. Oh and the clutch had very little travel. Might just be how those cars are, but 10-15cm travel feels a bit little. I chose to go with gut feeling, and walked away. Maybe it was a mistake if it's "only" a bearing. Oh well. Still amazed that the owner didn't notice it.
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May 27, 2016 20:11
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Slightly related topic: do wheel bearings ever make pulsing sounds on their way out? 2009 VW GTI has a pulsing sounds about once a second between 60-70mph. Independent of engine speed. Handling is still perfect and tires appear fine. Can feel just the slightest vibration on contract points like parking brake handle and accelerator. Guessing on some rear balancing weirdness or bearings? I'm a rookie so correct me if I'm wrong.
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May 27, 2016 20:17
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PaintVagrant posted:My sister will not listen to me and is buying a 2015 Patriot. She looked it up on consumer reports. Their 2014 model was on the "worst of the worst" list. So she is buying a 2015 I drove a 2014 Jeep Patriot rental and it was the most hilariously uncomfortable vehicle I have ever been in so far. They found ways to make it uncomfortable that I couldn't come up with trying purposefully to do so. How can modern car designs like that leave the drawing board, I truly don't understand.
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May 27, 2016 20:41
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The Bunk posted:07 Accord V6 auto, 93k miles Start at the O2 sensor and work your way back towards the ECU. Could help, could not. Looks like the upstream sensor is easily accessible so if you don't find anything conspicuous, not much wasted effort (though it doesn't necessarily mean everything's fine, either). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSmV6Bud43Y
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May 27, 2016 21:42
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MrOnBicycle posted:We had some theories and I guessed that it must be wheel bearing, drive shafts or gearbox/flywheel since it wasn't dependent on engine revs, but vehicle speed. No change in sound when turning, and was only silent at very low speeds. Any chance it had a lightweight/aluminum flywheel? I have a 12lb aluminum flywheel in my Focus and it makes all kinds of excess noise that would be a massive cause for concern if I heard it without knowing about the flywheel.I get a grinding/scraping noise when I'm rolling in gear off-throttle or while engine braking, and the car almost sounds like a diesel at idle from a rattling noise the TOB makes that is normally absorbed by the stock 30lb flywheel. I should add that these noises are totally normal with a lightweight flywheel in my car, numerous other people with the same modification have reported the same and I've put many tens of thousands of miles on it without any mechanical issues. PabloBOOM posted:Slightly related topic: do wheel bearings ever make pulsing sounds on their way out? 2009 VW GTI has a pulsing sounds about once a second between 60-70mph. Independent of engine speed. Handling is still perfect and tires appear fine. Can feel just the slightest vibration on contract points like parking brake handle and accelerator. Guessing on some rear balancing weirdness or bearings? I'm a rookie so correct me if I'm wrong. A good test for wheel bearings (that aren't totally hosed and allow the wheel to move around when you lift it off the ground) is make a series of slight opposite turns. You should hear the sound get worse when turning in one direction and diminish/go away entirely when you turn the other - the bad bearing will be on the side opposite the direction of turn that makes it sound worse, as the vehicle's weight will shift in the opposite direction of the turn.
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May 27, 2016 21:50
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Geoj posted:Any chance it had a lightweight/aluminum flywheel? I have a 12lb aluminum flywheel in my Focus and it makes all kinds of excess noise that would be a massive cause for concern if I heard it without knowing about the flywheel.I get a grinding/scraping noise when I'm rolling in gear off-throttle or while engine braking, and the car almost sounds like a diesel at idle from a rattling noise the TOB makes that is normally absorbed by the stock 30lb flywheel. No clatter that I could hear. None of the grinding or scraping noise. At first I was confused as hell because I heard what I first thought was engine sound, but then I looked at the rev counter and I was on ~2k, and the sound was pretty constant. So I realized that I couldn't actually hear the engine at all when driving, except when accelerating hard. Barely then to be honest. The owner had no idea, and he bought it from a dealer. It really was unberable. For reference, my old '98 shitbox Carisma I had a couple of years ago wasn't even close to being this loud. The 156 is 6 years newer and a "premium" car by comparison so it really isn't normal. If it's a mod that makes it sound like that I'm not interested anyway. Just sucks to drive for 7 hours to have a problem like that show up, and the owner not noticing. Really weird. Edit: Ok after listening on youtube I'm 90% sure it's the wheel bearing(s). Mystery solved I guess. Now I know. But that also means that the owner has been driving around with bad wheel bearing for years.  VVVV: Appreaciate it, I'll certainly remember it for the future. 
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 22:50 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 22:17
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^ I don't think you'd get the exact same noises, just throwing it out there as a possibility. If I didn't know about the flywheel and heard it making these noises I'd run away thinking something was horribly wrong with the drivetrain.
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May 27, 2016 22:24
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Michael Scott posted:How can modern car designs like that leave the drawing board, I truly don't understand. Chrysler + Fiat.
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May 27, 2016 22:36
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Godholio posted:Chrysler + Fiat. Was Fiat not aware of what Daimler went through with Chrysler?
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May 27, 2016 23:30
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edit: nevermind, managed to find someone at this tire place who wasn't a total fuckboy problem solved
Tashan Dorrsett fucked around with this message at 23:40 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 23:37
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Just bought (another, fml) project Jeep - this thing isn't gonna be on the road anytime soon so I'd prefer to not be paying insurance on it while it's up on stands. I have the signed title from the PO, is there any limit to how long I can sit on it without registering, tagging and insuring it? I'm in Pennsylvania.
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May 28, 2016 04:43
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Just bought (another, fml) project Jeep - this thing isn't gonna be on the road anytime soon so I'd prefer to not be paying insurance on it while it's up on stands. I have the signed title from the PO, is there any limit to how long I can sit on it without registering, tagging and insuring it? I'm in Pennsylvania. Contact your DMV for confirmation, but when I bought my last project I had to process the title, pay sales tax and add the car to my property tax assessment, but there was a provision for registering non-running to skip license plates and insurance.
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May 28, 2016 05:48
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eddiewalker posted:Contact your DMV for confirmation, but when I bought my last project I had to process the title, pay sales tax and add the car to my property tax assessment, but there was a provision for registering non-running to skip license plates and insurance. Yeah, California has a "planned non-op" registration that is cheaper and doesn't require insurance (because you are stating that you will store it and not operate it upon the road) for such a situation. I don't know what the situation is in PA, though; any goons from that part of the world?
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May 28, 2016 09:42
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Google is hard http://www.dmv.pa.gov/Information-Centers/Suspensions/Pages/Restore-Vehicle-Registration.aspx#.V0mmiHopBFs
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May 28, 2016 15:09
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tater_salad posted:Google is hard Where does that answer my question? I'm asking if I can hold the title and not register it for a while in order to not insure it. I know it needs insurance if it's registered. I'll call a tag place on Tuesday. e: or today I guess lol TACTICAL SANDALS fucked around with this message at 15:52 on May 28, 2016 |
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May 28, 2016 15:49
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In IL, you can get a token insurance that only covers the vehicle if it's stolen or destroyed, but doesn't allow you to drive it. It's super cheap. I got it for my busted motorcycle, my friend has it on his van that he doesn't use. It should let you register it, at least.
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May 28, 2016 15:56
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Yeah they said as long as it's not on the street it doesn't need to be registered and therefore not insured or plated. No time limit before it needs to be reg'd, just do it once it's fixed and road worthy. Hey that was easy!
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May 28, 2016 16:01
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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May 28, 2016 18:51
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I'm replacing my tires on my Scion tC. It's a boring commuter car for me. The guy at Costco tires is telling me that the tires I'm looking at are :alarm: NOT Z RATED :alarm: and thus will totally kill me because the grip will decrease and ruin my stopping distance. So, uh, are V rated tires going to kill me on my commute or is the guy maybe exaggerating a little?
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May 28, 2016 19:35
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canyoneer posted:I'm replacing my tires on my Scion tC. It's a boring commuter car for me. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35 You'll be fine.
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May 28, 2016 19:38
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Where does that answer my question? I'm asking if I can hold the title and not register it for a while in order to not insure it. I know it needs insurance if it's registered. I'll call a tag place on Tuesday. e: or today I guess lol Sorry reading comprehension really made an rear end out of me.. I was looking for non op registration and thought that this said "restoration registration".
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May 28, 2016 20:11
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canyoneer posted:I'm replacing my tires on my Scion tC. It's a boring commuter car for me. How often do you intend to drive over 149 mph?
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May 28, 2016 22:20
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Extra posted:What do you guys recommend for a MY2000+ sub $4,000 vehicle that can fit say maybe 6 20x10 toolboxes plus a bunch of smaller parts cases and get 25+ MPG combined (EPA rated)? Transit connects own bones but they're way too expensive. The focus is just a tad too small for everything to fit in even with the rear seats removed. Ideally I wouldn't have to stack any of the tool boxes so I could grab stuff when I needed it without screwing around with unstacking and restacking. I'm not sure you're going to find anything that fits the bill. To be fair, the xB doesn't either. You'd definitely be stacking things, and it likely wouldn't see 25 mpg combined either. I think you're going to have to budge noticeably on either price, cargo space, or fuel economy.
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May 28, 2016 22:22
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Godholio posted:How often do you intend to drive over 149 mph? Never! Costco won't put V tires on them anyway, and they don't have any Z rated tires anywhere nearby. I left without tires despite my protests and the fact that my belt is showing on one tire. 
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May 28, 2016 22:31
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Did the car come with Z rated tires from the factory? If so, I can see it being a liability concern putting on tires that "don't meet the spec", even if the spec is overkill.
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May 28, 2016 22:44
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More truck engine questions, the 3.7 5-cylinder that is in the Colorado/Canyon. Turd or Mega-Turd?
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May 28, 2016 23:15
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Uthor posted:Did the car come with Z rated tires from the factory? If so, I can see it being a liability concern putting on tires that "don't meet the spec", even if the spec is overkill. Costco Tire Center manager spotted yeah, they came with W rated tires
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May 28, 2016 23:15
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canyoneer posted:Never! Costco won't put V tires on them anyway, and they don't have any Z rated tires anywhere nearby. I left without tires despite my protests and the fact that my belt is showing on one tire. Will they sell you the tires and put them in your car so you can take them to a shop that isn't run by idiots?
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May 28, 2016 23:23
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NTB wouldn't put slightly wider tires on my MG even though the size it was wearing wasn't made anymore. They made me bring in the wheels off the car, so I sat in the parking lot with a floor jack bringing in one wheel at a time.
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May 28, 2016 23:27
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| # ? May 19, 2024 01:16 |
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Why would you give that place any money?
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May 28, 2016 23:53
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