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kastein posted:hey spyder, how much for a 3-angle valve job on an FC? Ride gets really weird when one side is blown like that, don't it?
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May 25, 2016 18:43
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It sure does! The struts were all passable condition when I got it, and it degraded slowly until the last few weeks, when it became painfully obvious that one rear strut was completely shot and the other was probably not far behind it. It was a very... nautical ride quality. The front swaybar having one bushing completely gone at this point and the rear having almost totally worn out link bushings certainly did nothing to help. Practically feels like it's glued to the road now even with just the rear struts replaced, but the fronts are getting done in the next few days too. I would do them immediately but I have two new balljoints to do in the front too and it seems like they'd be easier to do together.
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May 25, 2016 18:49
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Phanatic posted:I'm sad that the story behind this is almost certainly nowhere near as exciting as it should be:
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May 27, 2016 12:40
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Collateral Damage posted:I'd still like to hear the story. Phanatic posted:I'm sad that the story behind this is almost certainly nowhere near as exciting as it should be: It's not. The entirety of the story is "photoshop". 
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May 27, 2016 13:41
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Memento posted:It's not. The entirety of the story is "photoshop". You tell other peoples' kids that Santa isn't real, don't you?
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May 27, 2016 17:03
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Memento posted:It's not. The entirety of the story is "photoshop". drat. I figured it was a sculpture.
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May 27, 2016 17:24
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I'm sure someone here knows a lot about tires. How bad is it having less than 4mm of traction left on tires that are used in high-stress, high-speed driving with lots of cornering at speed? I'm asking because I got told off for switching (emergency) vehicle because the wheels had almost no tread left and several indicators were showing. Turns out the wheels are barely at the legal winter limit of 4mm in the middle, on the outside they are all not even at the summer limit of 1,6. Since I didn't manage to get a measurement device, I opted to switch vehicle for my safety and the safety of my passengers. Sure enough our vehicle dude started a shitstorm which hopefully got stopped by the department head but I still had a grandiose lovely day afterwards. Was I really too cautious and it doesn't matter? I mean, I'm driving 100+ kph inner city, so it seems to me as if legal limits are way below what I should be looking out for. Of course I could have adapted to the handling, but I imagine I'd have had to drive probably at half the speed I could manage with proper tires.
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May 30, 2016 10:26
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SEKCobra posted:How bad is it having less than 4mm of traction left on tires that are used in high-stress, high-speed driving with lots of cornering at speed? Does it matter? The tyres on the first vehicle were legally unfit. There was an alternate vehicle available. You made the right decision by switching. It sounds like the vehicle dude is pissed because you caught his mistake. What’s he saying, specifically? †I think it would technically not have been a problem so long as you had 100% clean, dry pavement along your route, but I’m not a tyre expert.
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May 30, 2016 10:51
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Platystemon posted:Does it matter? Well I think they could be barely legally fit cause I think it says something like 2/3 must have the required tread. His claim is simply that I wanted to use the newer Tiguan instead of the old Golf. I have voiced my support for the switch from Golf to Tiguan in the past, because it is vastly superior in performance, handling, occupant comfort & safety as well as public image. (Apparently it was also almost the same price because of the relationship with VW the red cross maintains) Obviously I don't actually give a gently caress, besides ride height the Golf doesn't bother me for the most part, and I didn't actively try to find a reason. I wasn't even the first person to report the tires, just first to not use the car with them. But yeah, car dude threw a childlike fit and "ignored" me, told dispatch to tell me his findings (while on the phone with them in the same room I'm in...) and was apparently complain to the operational supervisor. But the department head told me that he managed to calm him down and stopped it, before telling me to take vehicle issues less serious.
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May 30, 2016 11:58
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SEKCobra posted:Turns out the wheels are barely at the legal winter limit of 4mm in the middle, on the outside they are all not even at the summer limit of 1,6. Sounds like your tyres are also massively under inflated to wear the side before the centre and I'm sure you know that if wear bars are reached the tyre become illegal.
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May 30, 2016 16:02
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On dry pavement they would be fine, but if it rains things would get interesting.
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May 30, 2016 18:05
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http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?refurl=email&searchType=ID&targetCategory=R&searchCriteria.nhtsa_ids=16V261NHTSA posted:SUMMARY: Structural paint indeed.
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May 30, 2016 18:29
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Cakefool posted:Sounds like your tyres are also massively under inflated to wear the side before the centre and I'm sure you know that if wear bars are reached the tyre become illegal. That's not how it is here, wear bars aren't always at the limits that are valid here. Also yes, they are massively underinflated, but there's no facility to check or inflate them during my shifts, that's supposed to be handled by the monday crew but obviously those guys don't give enough fucks. But yeah, there was rain forecast and a proper storm with floods in the evening.
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May 30, 2016 18:39
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 Bet that made an interesting sound
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May 30, 2016 20:00
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NitroSpazzz posted:
I like how proud he is.
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May 30, 2016 20:07
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H110Hawk posted:http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?refurl=email&searchType=ID&targetCategory=R&searchCriteria.nhtsa_ids=16V261  The only explanation possible is somehow they didn't get all the FCA out of the vans.
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May 30, 2016 21:08
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I wonder if it affects the class b/c rvs that use the sprinter 3500 cutaway to build on.
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May 30, 2016 22:05
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wargames posted:I like how proud he is. "Look what I did!"
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May 30, 2016 22:14
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JuffoWup posted:I wonder if it affects the class b/c rvs that use the sprinter 3500 cutaway to build on. RV's, busses, and other non-mass produced vehicles seem to make a majority of the NHTSA recall notices which have anything interesting in them. I signed up for the weekly digest and a month later it still holds my interest. Looks like the next wave of airbag recalls just went through.
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May 31, 2016 00:26
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NitroSpazzz posted:
I wonder what did that - I only just realised that the spikes / spades are meant to be pointing up wrt to the bucket. Trying to dig out Scrooge Mcduck's bank vault?
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May 31, 2016 00:53
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Hexyflexy posted:I wonder what did that - I only just realised that the spikes / spades are meant to be pointing up wrt to the bucket. Trying to dig out Scrooge Mcduck's bank vault? Can't speak to this specific image, but usually it goes like this: Two full buckets = full haul truck = productivity. Anything less than a full haul truck earns you A Stern Talking To because productivity and three scoops causes traffic issues with the timed haul trucks and overloaded haul trucks. So folks get less than a full bucket on their first go, and then try to make up for it by pushing the machinery when the machinery is already at capacity. At which juncture this happens and those analysts and planners who advocated for a slightly lower hourly production figure which would have allowed for the odd under-loaded truck become insufferably smug.
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May 31, 2016 02:35
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wargames posted:I like how proud he is. Standard operating procedure for when you gently caress something up. Everyone knows you did it, so why not commemorate the occasion?  "Whatever you do, DON'T ruin the loving lawn!" A small fuckup in the grand scale of things, but the gusto with which he performed the up-loving was impressive. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 09:51 on May 31, 2016 |
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May 31, 2016 09:49
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nm posted:
I guess the rubber around the window comes out together with the outer layer of paint it's holding on to?
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May 31, 2016 10:29
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SEKCobra posted:Well I think they could be barely legally fit cause I think it says something like 2/3 must have the required tread. His claim is simply that I wanted to use the newer Tiguan instead of the old Golf. I have voiced my support for the switch from Golf to Tiguan in the past, because it is vastly superior in performance, handling, occupant comfort & safety as well as public image. (Apparently it was also almost the same price because of the relationship with VW the red cross maintains) Every company is all about safety, safety safety until somebody needs to fork out cash to replace worn, unsafe equipment.
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May 31, 2016 15:28
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Computer viking posted:I guess the rubber around the window comes out together with the outer layer of paint it's holding on to? The urethane bonding adhesive probably peels the top layer of paint off the bottom layer, if I had to guess.
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May 31, 2016 16:52
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kastein posted:The urethane bonding adhesive probably peels the top layer of paint off the bottom layer, if I had to guess. That's what I was trying and failing to describe, yeah.
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May 31, 2016 17:35
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 Head tube on a Trek mountain bike, presumably 6000 series Al. Possibly putting a rigid fork on an 18 year old frame was not the best idea but at least I found out the right way. Welding gods of AI, should I find someone to weld it or just bin it/hang it on the wall? It has a certain amount of sentimental value.
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May 31, 2016 18:55
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That's nothing that can't be fixed with a TIG, but I guess you need to weigh the cost of repair against the sentimental value. A truly correct fix would involve disassembling the head tube, cleaning out all the grease, stripping the paint at least in that area, welding, filing and sanding back to shape, and repainting. Depending on the severity of the crack it might even involve re-machining the bearing surfaces. And then you still have an old frame that has already cracked once, so you know the rest of it is also reaching that fatigue limit. Alternately, just pop out the bearings, take a file to the paint for an inch around the crack, and booger on whatever you can. It'll keep it going for a few more years at least.
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May 31, 2016 19:35
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Yeah, aluminum has no fatigue limit so any cyclical stress would have eventually fractured it. You may have made it worse by increasing the amplitude of the stress, but still... It looks like a very very straight fracture though... is that the spot where the tubing was welded together, assuming it's ERW? I dunno if aluminum tubes are extruded as tubes, or produced by rolling a flat strip and resistance welding the edges together, like most steel tube is.
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May 31, 2016 19:46
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Saga posted:Head tube on a Trek mountain bike, presumably 6000 series Al. Possibly putting a rigid fork on an 18 year old frame was not the best idea but at least I found out the right way. ... that makes me reconsider the idea putting a rigid fork on my 10 year old aluminum Trek. Is that one of the hybrid ones or what?
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May 31, 2016 19:48
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I think it would be safe to assume that the head tube on a Trek bike is extruded and the relative straightness of that fracture is just from consistently loading it on one axis. Without seeing the rest of the bike, I'm going to guess that the fracture is nearly in line with the rest of the frame. One of my friends has a 15 year old Trek bike, maybe I should show this to him to convince him to just get a new one already instead of piecemealing it.
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May 31, 2016 20:25
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mekilljoydammit posted:... that makes me reconsider the idea putting a rigid fork on my 10 year old aluminum Trek. Is that one of the hybrid ones or what? Not a hybrid, it was their normal base model aluminium MTB frame. It was also 18 years old and well used, so you probably have another decade to go on yours! kastein posted:Yeah, aluminum has no fatigue limit so any cyclical stress would have eventually fractured it. You may have made it worse by increasing the amplitude of the stress, but still... I believe they are extruded as tubes not welded. It's at about three o'clock looking down from the top of the head tube. Sagebrush posted:That's nothing that can't be fixed with a TIG, but I guess you need to weigh the cost of repair against the sentimental value. A truly correct fix would involve disassembling the head tube, cleaning out all the grease, stripping the paint at least in that area, welding, filing and sanding back to shape, and repainting. Depending on the severity of the crack it might even involve re-machining the bearing surfaces. And then you still have an old frame that has already cracked once, so you know the rest of it is also reaching that fatigue limit. Yeah, I figure it will probably go again, and as you say the bearing surface for the headset bearing race would need re-machining. I've found my wife's 10 year old version of that frame in the loft so will just swap everything over. It's a pity because the later frames aren't as nice IMO. Comically oversized tubing and certainly didn't ride as well for XC / singletrack stuff.
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May 31, 2016 20:27
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Saga posted:Not a hybrid, it was their normal base model aluminium MTB frame. It was also 18 years old and well used, so you probably have another decade to go on yours! Oh, I'm just riding on asphalt and bike trails and stuff, so screw it, proceeding to not worry.
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May 31, 2016 21:30
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Changing forks wouldn't have had anything to do with that crack. Changing headsets might have. Did you press in a new headset while swapping forks? If you did press in a new headset, did you happen to press both cups in at the same time? I killed an aluminum GT road frame 6 or so years ago by pushing both cups in at the same time- even the proper park press couldn't save me on that one. It was a tough lesson, but at least it stuck- I haven't done it again. I wouldn't try and fix that frame, it's toast. I don't know about that era of trek specifically, but many 6000 series (or is that the trek model number?) alloys are heat treated once welded to regain the temper lost during fabrication. That said, if you are really taking it easy on this bike, and don't have a huge attachment to your teeth when it inevitably fails for good, you could probably scrape a couple more years out of it by drilling a hole at the end of the crack, chamfering the edges of the hole (do a good job here, go slow and make sure you're making a nice smooth cut) and using something like a hose clamp to keep the headtube tight around the headset cup. If you really want a professional opinion, reach out to Frank [the welder, FTW] Wadelton. He was the original fabricator of yetis back in the day and one of, if not the best aluminum bicycle fabricator in the world. I believe he's in bellows falls VT these days. He's a regular on facebook, bikeforums and velocipedestation and is very prompt to reply and forthright with info. If you feel like it, ask him to guesstimate a repair cost while you're at it. Make sure you're sitting down. E: or, you could do what this guy did. E2: DON'T do what that guy did. glyph fucked around with this message at 23:50 on May 31, 2016 |
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May 31, 2016 21:44
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Sagebrush posted:And then you still have an old frame that has already cracked once, so you know the rest of it is also reaching that fatigue limit. kastein posted:Yeah, aluminum has no fatigue limit so any cyclical stress would have eventually fractured it. You may have made it worse by increasing the amplitude of the stress, but still... Just an explanatory note on what kastein said, fatigue limit is the maximum stress under which a material will not experience fatigue. Ferrous and titanium alloys are notable materials with a fatigue limit (i.e. if your stress is below the sample's fatigue limit, it will not fail by fatigue). Fatigue life is the number of cycles it takes for a sample to experience failure.
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Jun 1, 2016 00:31
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Yeah, fatigue life is what I meant to say. Brain fart.
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Jun 1, 2016 02:23
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glyph posted:Changing forks wouldn't have had anything to do with that crack. Changing headsets might have. Did you press in a new headset while swapping forks? If you did press in a new headset, did you happen to press both cups in at the same time? I killed an aluminum GT road frame 6 or so years ago by pushing both cups in at the same time- even the proper park press couldn't save me on that one. It was a tough lesson, but at least it stuck- I haven't done it again. As the former owner of a KTM Duke, a bike on which everything eventually cracks due to vibration (it's the well-known KTM auto-composting feature - eventually you end up with two tyres and a very expensive pile of iron oxide and plastic which can be quickly and easily disposed of), my first instinct was to drill a hole. But then I came to my senses. And yes, I think basic aluminium Treks of that era were all 6000 series alloy and hence probably post-weld heat treated, so even if I paid for welding and then had the bearing surface remachined, it probably wouldn't hold together without retreatment. You could well be correct about the headset actually. That's a nearly-new headset and who knows what my LBS did when putting it on.
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Jun 1, 2016 07:40
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Sagebrush posted:Yeah, fatigue life is what I meant to say. Brain fart. No, you were correct. Unlike steel etc, aluminum will experience fatigue at any level of stress
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Jun 1, 2016 19:29
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Ok, yes, I was technically correct in that the aluminum frame is always being fatigued ("reaching the fatigue limit") because its "fatigue limit" is zero displacement. But what I meant to say was that if the frame fatigue-cracked in the front due to repeated stress, and the nature of bicycling means that the rest of the frame has also experienced around the same number of stress cycles, then the other stressed-but-intact parts on the frame (dropouts, bottom bracket welds, etc) are probably reaching the end of their fatigue life and will crack sooner rather than later  Fatigue.
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Jun 1, 2016 20:11
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Saga posted:...my first instinct was to drill a hole. But then I came to my senses. And yes, I think basic aluminium Treks of that era were all 6000 series alloy and hence probably post-weld heat treated, so even if I paid for welding and then had the bearing surface remachined, it probably wouldn't hold together without retreatment. Huh, really? I was under the impression that SOP was to drill a hole at the head of a crack in aluminum to keep it from propagating further. I have never done or had to do it, so this is all theorhetical to me, but is drilling a hole a wrong move (talking about a #60bit, 1mm kind of hole here)? Also heat treat on the kind of thin rear end wall aluminum used for bike frames is no joke- the aforementioned Frank the welder has talked about having to personally be at the heat treating place after a batch passes through with a frame jig to straighten out slumping tubes. That poo poo is really thin. E: is it time for an AI bicycle thread? These topics seem to keep coming up.
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Jun 1, 2016 23:27
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