|
Turning uses more of your full body than you think. I haven't seen a foot switch used in woodworking, although I have seen them on drill presses, but not WW drill presses. Incidentally I considered putting a foot switch on my lathe and decided not to.
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 01:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 21:23 |
|
|
I'll just quietly front mount a switch and try the foot switch on the scroll saw I use for trimming kydex so I don't have to keep reaching to the back of the thing to switch it on/off.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 03:09
|
|
|
Butch Cassidy posted:I'll just quietly front mount a switch and try the foot switch on the scroll saw I use for trimming kydex so I don't have to keep reaching to the back of the thing to switch it on/off. Oh geez, I didn't realize your switch was in a hazardous location. Having flashbacks to the weird setup on my 1960s table saw when I bought it: toggle switch mounted on the motor hanging off the back, literally the worst place it could possibly be. So, get yourself one of these: http://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch  I have a bunch of them, even on tools that don't strictly need it, such as the router on my router table. Bonus is that you don't need to modify the tool in question, just plug that thing in between the wall and the tool and mount it wherever is handy. But if you want to hard-wire it in, you absolutely can, Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:58 on May 30, 2016 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 03:55
|
|
|
Yeah, my beater plastic-trimmin' scroll saw is a Dremel Moto-Shop and the toggle swith is mounted on the back. The foot pedal is already plugged into it and convenient for the quick trims I use it for. Can just flip the toggle off with the saw already dead when done cutting. That kill switch you posted looks worth consideration for my grandfather's old pedestal drill press when I get it running. Still need to decide what I'll use for the lathe as there is no switch included and both motors are just on if plugged in. Might just go with the fat stop sign for it, as well. Be easy enough to drill a frame leg for it before re-painting.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 04:04
|
|
|
Butch Cassidy posted:Still need to decide what I'll use for the lathe as there is no switch included and both motors are just on if plugged in. Might just go with the fat stop sign for it, as well. Be easy enough to drill a frame leg for it before re-painting. It's what I did for my old table saw, like I said, it just had an old toggle switch on the motor hanging off the back, literally one of these:  I ripped that out and hard-wired it into the paddle switch I linked above. Works great, I just bump it with whatever part of my body is handy when I'm done cutting. So now you've got the motor's electrical box with some heavy duty extension cord coming out of there, going to the front of the machine where the paddle switch is, and then off to the wall for power. Since it's hard-wired in (instead of just using the switch's provided wiring as an extension cord jumper cable thing) there's no danger of not having the tool switched and plugging it straight into power or anything...which is how the jointer I bought with the table saw originally was: if it was plugged in, it was on. Jesus christ, how do some people survive themselves? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 04:08 on May 30, 2016 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 04:06
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:So, get yourself one of these: Any particular reason to go with the $35 Rockler as opposed to the $12 version that appears to have identical specs (110V/15A)?
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 04:10
|
|
|
That looks like it's just the face and switch, the rockler one is a full box with a few feet of male and female extension cord wired in so all you do is plug it in between the wall and the tool. A switched extension cord, basically. I mean, that's not $20+ worth of differences, sure, but it's nice to just have it done and stick it in place, no muss no fuss. But if you want to save a few bucks and don't mind doing some wiring and putting in a junction box and all, yeah, lots of options out there. Or 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 04:17 on May 30, 2016 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 04:13
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Any particular reason to go with the $35 Rockler as opposed to the $12 version that appears to have identical specs (110V/15A)? It is just the face part, but it goes into a standard $2 outlet box just fine.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 04:15
|
|
|
I use a toggle switch.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 05:01
|
|
|
They should make a device like the clapper, but it only responds to soul-rending screams of pain and terror.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 13:07
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:They should make a device like the clapper, but it only responds to soul-rending screams of pain and terror. https://youtu.be/OtxqxQyZLzY?t=34s
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 17:09
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:They should make a device like the clapper, but it only responds to soul-rending screams of pain and terror.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 17:11
|
|
|
Corla Plankun posted:From a machine learning standpoint, it would be really hard to differentiate pain and terror from normal, everyday router noises. Can't decide if it's horrifying or comforting that machines can't identify terror.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 18:46
|
|
|
So I ended up breaking the back on my recliner.  I was able to keep it alive for a few weeks with wood glue and extra screws but it finally just fell apart on me a week ago. It was cheaply made with 3/4" plywood so it was only a matter of time. But I don't want to just throw it out and spend money right now, so I'm thinking of rebuilding the plywood innards with MDF. They're not large pieces but they're a little awkwardly shaped.Should I get a jigsaw for cutting out the pieces from a big sheet of MDF? Or is there something different I should use? Basically I just want to get the preferred tool for doing smaller, precise cuts. All I have right now is a table saw.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 19:22
|
|
|
MDF will turn to pulp about as fast as you can put it together, in that situation.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 19:49
|
|
|
Yup. MDF is infinitely worse than the equivalent thickness of plywood from a structural perspective. it's only really good for small projects and things where not having any grain is important.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 22:27
|
|
|
Oh, drat. I guess I can just get more plywood then.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2016 23:37
|
|
|
And your choice of tools is probably bandsaw or jigsaw. Or maybe a scroll saw if you are talking really small pieces.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2016 00:06
|
|
|
DizzyBum posted:Oh, drat. I guess I can just get more plywood then. I don't know how those things are built but solid wood is stronger than plywood in most applications.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2016 00:24
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:Can't decide if it's horrifying or comforting that machines can't identify terror. Lathes know. The bigger the lathe the more drawn out your death will be to better savor it.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2016 02:16
|
|
|
wormil posted:I don't know how those things are built but solid wood is stronger than plywood in most applications. Okay, I'll keep that in mind, thanks! I just have to figure out which tool to get. The pieces that comprise the recliner frame aren't that big, maybe a couple feet in length at most. I'm not sure of the advantages/disadvantages of a jigsaw versus a bandsaw.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2016 15:51
|
|
|
Just remembered I have some Waterlox Satin left over from finishing some butcherblock countertops. Seems like that would work well for my maple end tables. Waterlox says to put down Waterlox original before the Satin. Do I really have to go out and get another can of the original for like $30?
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2016 16:02
|
|
|
DizzyBum posted:I'm not sure of the advantages/disadvantages of a jigsaw versus a bandsaw. A jigsaw (I assume you mean a handheld jigsaw versus a benchtop scroll saw) is portable, not anywhere near as easy to cut cleanly with, more easily stored, and cheaper. If you're just going to do a quick job here and there, the jigsaw is fine. And the recliner frame is hidden under fabric so a perfect cut is not a priority.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2016 16:44
|
|
|
Is wood movement much of a concern at smaller sizes? I'm thinking of building an arcade stick and the biggest dimension would be width at around 12-18". And more general question for any size, does finishing with ...whatever things you finish with (stains, sealers, paint, etc?) affect movement characteristics?
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2016 20:54
|
|
|
I am building a desk with an apron. I plan on using tabletop fastners using a groove cut into the apron. I joined the apron and legs with biscuits but are otherwise a butt joint. Right now, the legs and aprons are glued in only three pieces (all running perpendicular to the table top). I have been holding off on gluing the cross members until later in order to save some space in my garage. I attached a few pictures for reference. The table top is about 2' x 4'. There will be a small set of drawers on the right and I plan on gluing the legs on that side directly to the drawer carcass (the leg and carcass panels will be parallel grain). Do I need to make a corner brace or use a corner bracket for the leg/apron joint?  
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 03:43
|
|
|
I would add corner brackets just to be safe, not too sure how much strength a biscuit adds, so you'll want a bit of insurance.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 03:55
|
|
|
Meow Meow Meow posted:I would add corner brackets just to be safe, not too sure how much strength a biscuit adds, so you'll want a bit of insurance. I think I saw some tests that showed biscuits adding virtually zero strength and them really just for helping with alignment. Probably depends on the specific joint and type of stresses it will see though. Edit: interesting http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive98/Abstract/abstract1.html Squibbles fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Jun 2, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 04:01
|
|
|
BigTeaBag posted:Do I need to make a corner brace or use a corner bracket for the leg/apron joint? I've built things with biscuits and glue and then had to take them apart -- you'll be fine. Biscuits wouldn't be my first choice for a table but realistically you'll be fine unless you are hopping up and down on the table in ten years. The biscuits are just for alignment thing is a myth. The original intent was a method for joining sheet goods. That said, if you want to reinforce it with a corner bracket, it definitely won't hurt and will add to the longevity.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 06:44
|
|
|
I'm thinking the tongue and groove joint is way underrated here. Been looking for a set of woodies to make nicely aligned T&G joints...
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 07:52
|
|
|
Danish oil: Not available in Denmark. (Well it probably is, probably just under a wildly different trade name. I also tried asking for tung oil yesterday, the paint store clerk had never heard of it.)
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 08:03
|
|
|
Never heard of it outside english forums, but you know, mix some varnish with oil and there you go! I will mix epifanes (available in europe) and tung oil, or perhaps BLO 50/50. Also this is for sale locally for 450 euros:  I'm tempted but it's only a jointer. Given my space I need to hold out for a combo machine.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 08:07
|
|
|
Thanks for the input. I will add some sort of corner support.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 11:55
|
|
|
wormil posted:I've built things with biscuits and glue and then had to take them apart -- you'll be fine. Biscuits wouldn't be my first choice for a table but realistically you'll be fine unless you are hopping up and down on the table in ten years. The biscuits are just for alignment thing is a myth. The original intent was a method for joining sheet goods. That said, if you want to reinforce it with a corner bracket, it definitely won't hurt and will add to the longevity. You're saying a biscuit joint is sufficient in a location/context that has used a mortise and tennon joint for over a century to resist racking forces. Going to have to disagree. Biscuits are for aligning boards for panel glue ups. They aren't a replacement for load bearing joinery. While the legs, not the apron, should be bearing the brunt of downward forces, the aprons job (and thus the joint where it meets the leg) is to bear the brunt of racking forces. A biscuit in a joint where end grain is butted up against edge grain isn't going to resist racking.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 12:55
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Never heard of it outside english forums, but you know, mix some varnish with oil and there you go! I will mix epifanes (available in europe) and tung oil, or perhaps BLO 50/50. Buy it now, then once you get a combo machine you can sell it to free up some room. Look at it as a tool rental.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 12:59
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:I'm thinking the tongue and groove joint is way underrated here. Been looking for a set of woodies to make nicely aligned T&G joints... This is the one time I can say "I have a thing you don't have." Feels good. Also, when nielsm asked for tung oil it should be called "Chinese Oil" http://www.biltema.dk/da/Byggeri/Maling-og-Fugemasse/Olie/Kinesisk-olie-2000020852/ If you can find the 100% tung oil it will be better for food safe applications, but this stuff does decently for things you won't be licking, it's something like 90% tung.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 13:17
|
|
|
I got my tung oil from here, looked good, need to check the bottle itself, think it was labeled food safe http://kauppa.kyminpalokarki.fi/product/120/kiinanpuustandoljy-10p
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 13:52
|
|
|
Meow Meow Meow posted:Buy it now, then once you get a combo machine you can sell it to free up some room. Look at it as a tool rental. Eh, a deal like this seems to come around multiple times a year and I got a small 8" combo machine so I can afford to wait. I'd be more willing to buy a larger planer if I found one. I'd consider a lunchbox if they where like 100 instead of 900 euros, cheap universal driven plastic shitboxes have no business costing like they do.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 13:57
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:I got my tung oil from here, looked good, need to check the bottle itself, think it was labeled food safe Lots of finishes are safe for food contact when cured (though I might be leery of something that could encounter a knife and thus flake off into the food). Pure tung oil, however, is actually edible uncured -- not that I would recommend drinking it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 15:43
|
|
|
nielsm posted:Danish oil: Not available in Denmark. It's probably just called oil.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 16:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 21:23 |
|
|
GEMorris posted:You're saying a biscuit joint is sufficient in a location/context that has used a mortise and tennon joint for over a century to resist racking forces. Check out that study I linked a few posts up. Apparently a biscuit held joint is about 80% the strength of a mortice and tenon. And exponentially closer the deeper/bigger the biscuit is.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 16:15
|
|