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-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

Laranzu posted:

Ditto.
Sounds seized.
Buy a Compressor from a friendly Miata club member/Junkyard/Junkie nearby.

What year? Any idea if it was converted from R12 if its a super old car?

For the NA/NB:

Drop the belts.
Evacuate the refrigerant ( Find a shop to do this )
4 Bolts to hold the compressor to the block. Think its two banjo bolts to hold the lines on the compressor.
A new dryer
New compressor goes on
Put in new magic coldmaking gas.
It's a '90, 134a. Entire AC system was refreshed last summer and was perfect until the car got swiped. Ugh. Guess I'll have to hunt down a compressor. I swear I've dropped almost $2k into AC systems over the 2 miatas I've owned

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TheGoatTrick
Aug 1, 2002

Semi-aquatic personification of unstoppable douchery

Blinky2099 posted:

I want to go get the California legal limit for tint across all windows (so my black leather seats stop getting so hot, mostly), and drop the car a few inches. Any recommendations for specific places in the south/east bay to do this, or general advice for who to go to? I don't want any stupid bubbles/peeling.
The California legal limit is basically nothing on the windshield or front side windows. Most people will go 50% or 35% on the front windows without issue. If you want the most heat rejection with the least darkness, take a look at 3M Crystalline or Suntek CXP. Both of those lines have an almost-clear option for your windshield. You can look on their sites for their authorized dealers in your area, who will be generally competent and offer a lifetime warranty on their work.

Laranzu
Jan 18, 2002
Really, tapping a guard rail shouldn't have hosed the compressor unless the impact was bad enough to smash the front end in far enough to wreck it. No squealing or hammering before that?

I'd check your wiring too and see if maybe something is dicking up the clutch engagement.

In the end it's probably the compressor though it sounds coincidental to have the issue and impact at the same time.


I'm not looking forward to making my AC work again either. Removed power steering so unless I track down an idler pulley, i have to shim in a belt directly to the compressor.

Laranzu fucked around with this message at 20:16 on May 28, 2016

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

I've got an idler pulley sitting in my shed I'd be willing to sell to you :)

[e] pm me if you're interested

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 22:30 on May 28, 2016

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

Laranzu posted:

Really, tapping a guard rail shouldn't have hosed the compressor unless the impact was bad enough to smash the front end in far enough to wreck it. No squealing or hammering before that?

I'd check your wiring too and see if maybe something is dicking up the clutch engagement.

In the end it's probably the compressor though it sounds coincidental to have the issue and impact at the same time.


I'm not looking forward to making my AC work again either. Removed power steering so unless I track down an idler pulley, i have to shim in a belt directly to the compressor.
Yeah, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me either. AC was working earlier that day, guard rail was tapped, next morning it wasn't working. Gonna get under the hood this weekend and check fuses and whatnot.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.

-Inu- posted:

So the AC in my car is having problems, and it was 90 today, so I may actually die if I don't fix it. AC worked fine until late last year when someone else was driving and lightly kissed a guardrail at speed. Now if I turn on the AC, it makes a squealing sound and the RPMs immediately drop to 0 and stall out the car.

Any ideas? I glanced under the hood and there's nothing glaring, but I have to park on city streets so it's a huge hassle to actually deeply inspect the car. I'd much rather not pay an arm and a leg to fix what can't be an overly complex problem, though.

I have a compressor I can sell you for cheap. I ordered a replacement from RockAuto (4 seasons refurbished) but ended up going with an OEM part my mechanic had on hand. I still have the 4 seasons in its original sealed box from RockAuto. Hit goonplates@gmail.com if you're interested.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

-Inu- posted:

Yeah, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me either. AC was working earlier that day, guard rail was tapped, next morning it wasn't working. Gonna get under the hood this weekend and check fuses and whatnot.

Did you check your lines going into the condenser and the condenser itself? Because those are in front of the car, all it would take is enough to crack a line and you lose all the refrigerant. If you look under the car in the front you'll see it, that's the only thing I could think of related to hitting the front of the car, but it still doesn't explain why the car would stall out. The compressor will still turn with no refrigerant however so it's probably just a coincidence.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

blk posted:

I have a compressor I can sell you for cheap. I ordered a replacement from RockAuto (4 seasons refurbished) but ended up going with an OEM part my mechanic had on hand. I still have the 4 seasons in its original sealed box from RockAuto. Hit goonplates@gmail.com if you're interested.
I may take you up on this after I troubleshoot anything.

leica posted:

Did you check your lines going into the condenser and the condenser itself? Because those are in front of the car, all it would take is enough to crack a line and you lose all the refrigerant. If you look under the car in the front you'll see it, that's the only thing I could think of related to hitting the front of the car, but it still doesn't explain why the car would stall out. The compressor will still turn with no refrigerant however so it's probably just a coincidence.
Lines look fine, but yeah, my prior miata had problems with the lines but worked fine otherwise; just didn't produce any cool air.

This is what it's doing (I intentionally bumped the revs up): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMQL4gNhpF0

I guess the compressor is probably seized, so the belt tries to spin it, but slips, and just slows everything else down to the point where it stalls out?

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

craig588 posted:

Are you okay with spending a few thousand for a not really well refined package? The ND is too new for people to have really gotten favorite settings dialed in into mass produced kits. I'd wait for a year or so for people to shake out the good from the bad.
ND Xidas exist.

craig588
Nov 19, 2005

by Nyc_Tattoo
http://949racing.com/ND-xida-coilover-miata.aspx
"preorder"
He releases high quality parts, but his preorders are famously long. I agree though, Xidas are what I'd get.

Fake edit: Oh, I see it's just a 3-5 week lead time. Go for it!

Otteration
Jan 4, 2014

I CAN'T SAY PRESIDENT DONALD JOHN TRUMP'S NAME BECAUSE HE'S LIKE THAT GUY FROM HARRY POTTER AND I'M AFRAID I'LL SUMMON HIM. DONALD JOHN TRUMP. YOUR FAVORITE PRESIDENT.
OUR 47TH PRESIDENT AFTER THE ONE WHO SHOWERS WITH HIS DAUGHTER DIES
Grimey Drawer

-Inu- posted:

I may take you up on this after I troubleshoot anything.
Lines look fine, but yeah, my prior miata had problems with the lines but worked fine otherwise; just didn't produce any cool air.

This is what it's doing (I intentionally bumped the revs up): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMQL4gNhpF0

I guess the compressor is probably seized, so the belt tries to spin it, but slips, and just slows everything else down to the point where it stalls out?

Yep.

GutBomb
Jun 15, 2005

Dude?
I'm moving to Utah from Boston and we are renting a truck. We've got 2 cars, a Fiesta ST and an NC Miata and we'll be towing one of them on the trip behind the U-Haul and driving the other. Neither of these cars are considered particularly comfortable for long distance drives but which one do you think will be the least uncomfortable? The Fiesta is on stock tires which are pretty low profile and have no give, and the miata is on stock suspension and 16 inch wheels so there's more sidewall, but the seats aren't exactly comfortable. I'm really at a loss as to which I should drive and which I should tow. It's literally just 2 roads the whole way there. I-90 to I-80, then I-80 all the way to SLC.

mariooncrack
Dec 27, 2008
Tow the Miata, drive the Fiesta.

Tanz-Kommandant
Dec 25, 2009

Radio Message from HQ:
Dance Commander
:h:WE LOVE YOU:h:
Having owned both and driven both on road trips, even with the Recaros the ST is much more comfortable and easier to lay down miles in. Tow the NC

Laranzu
Jan 18, 2002
My Focus ST was great on road trips. No contest here

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal
Have you tried fitting both cars on a trailer?

GutBomb
Jun 15, 2005

Dude?
The trailer will be attached to a 15 foot u-haul truck and we've got a baby and a dog and another passenger so I don't think towing both would work but I've been convinced now the Fiesta is the right choice. Luckily I have the base seats in there.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Is a Miata actually that uncomfortable long distance? I test drove an ND Grand Touring about 2 months ago, and I remember it being suprisingly comfortable. I drove the Club last week, and I could see it being pretty uncomfortable/tiring after an hour or two, depending on the road surface. Then again, the last car I had with leather seats got pretty uncomfortable after a couple hours.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
My GT NC2 gets uncomfortable after about hour 6 for me, as my knee can't move much and will start to ache.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
I haven't had a car that's comfortable on the freeway... like ever.

Road noise and having something that's kind of twitchy that follows the crown of the road gets extremely tiring after a while.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
My NC1 has sort of hard seats but since I am a tiny little manchild I have no real issues space or being cramped. The MS6 is pretty good on the highway.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
I drove my NB from Atlanta to Detroit a few months ago and my only complaint was the lack of cruise control in my car.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

I drove a NA Miata from Tampa to the Gap and back, about a day's drive one way.

Not exactly fun but not horrible either. Having an rear end pillow helped.

Nocheez
Sep 5, 2000

Can you spare a little cheddar?
Nap Ghost
I would tow the lighter car to make going up mountains easier.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
An NC weighs 2550lbs (min) and a Fiesta (note: not ST) weighs 2600lbs. It's a wash.

destructo
Apr 29, 2006
Got rid of all my turbo garbage (a pretty nice FM kit) and finished my paint-by-the-numbers Miataturbo.net VVT + 6speed swap this weekend.



I wish I had never gone turbo, this is seriously the best. Later this year I'll finish putting in the bigger cams and the headwork, but for now, I'll just be driving.

mariooncrack
Dec 27, 2008
Just wondering, what didn't you like about the turbo?

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

mariooncrack posted:

Just wondering, what didn't you like about the turbo?
It was fun on the street but ruined the character of the car.
-miata.net

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

destructo posted:

It was fun on the street but ruined the character of the car.
-miata.net

Could you elaborate a bit more? Like what prompted you to go back to n/a, also how much did the swap cost if you don't mind....

I imagine the simplicity is also nicer, but I'm a minimalist dork.

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

leica posted:

Could you elaborate a bit more? Like what prompted you to go back to n/a, also how much did the swap cost if you don't mind....

I imagine the simplicity is also nicer, but I'm a minimalist dork.
Ooof, that is a bit tough regarding cost. I ended up selling a bunch of parts during the swap, but I'll try and sum up the big ones.

$1500 vvt motor+6speed (I got these for "free" parting out a 2002SE last year
$800 MS3Basic
$500 Refurb parts (OEM all gasket motor rebuild kit + random hoses, ancillary garbage like nice crimps/etc).
$450 Racing Beat header
$350 Squaretop IM
$200 K&N intake
$350 boundary engineering oil pump (not required)

Sold the turbo kit for $2000 along with the old DIYPNP for $500, so out of pocket I'm not out terribly much. If I had to start from scratch and didn't harbor any dumb feels about keeping it all Mazda I would have swapped in an Ecotec, as the kits exist now and it'd be marginally more expensive and make close to what a built BP does out of the box.

Regarding why, the simplicity was a big part of it. The turbo always seemed to require a little bit of work here and there, plus I couldn't really beat on it with impunity (SNC 1.6 had a good bit of crank wobble too). The turbo was immensely fun on the street but for back roads driving and autocross it wasn't nearly as easy or rewarding to drive. For example, going part throttle through a corner, the car will actually try and build boost, so you're actually lifting slightly to keep the speed constant. I admit this could be tuned out with EBC, but I never could seem to get the closed loop control on the megasquirt to work quite right. Power wise I suspect I was making about 180whp with the GT2554r on the 1.6. After I put in the 264/264 cams,upgrade the valve train/shave the head on the BP, and add the flex fuel tune for E85, I should be within spitting distance of that.

That being said, I suspect I am at around 135-140whp with my current setup and don't miss a thing.

tl;dr cars are not about numbers.

destructo fucked around with this message at 17:56 on May 30, 2016

Laranzu
Jan 18, 2002
Did you put a Variable TPS on that 1.6? I'm not FI yet, but closed loop is working pretty drat nicely for mine.

Granted, the turbo throws a whole bunch of complication into that, but still.

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

Laranzu posted:

Did you put a Variable TPS on that 1.6? I'm not FI yet, but closed loop is working pretty drat nicely for mine.

Granted, the turbo throws a whole bunch of complication into that, but still.
Yep, had a BMW vtps.

I'm talking closed loop boost control, not sure what you are referring to?

Laranzu
Jan 18, 2002

destructo posted:

Yep, had a BMW vtps.

I'm talking closed loop boost control, not sure what you are referring to?

For some reason I was only thinking of Closed Loop Idle control. Derp.

mariooncrack
Dec 27, 2008

destructo posted:

Ooof, that is a bit tough regarding cost. I ended up selling a bunch of parts during the swap, but I'll try and sum up the big ones.

$1500 vvt motor+6speed (I got these for "free" parting out a 2002SE last year
$800 MS3Basic
$500 Refurb parts (OEM all gasket motor rebuild kit + random hoses, ancillary garbage like nice crimps/etc).
$450 Racing Beat header
$350 Squaretop IM
$200 K&N intake
$350 boundary engineering oil pump (not required)

Sold the turbo kit for $2000 along with the old DIYPNP for $500, so out of pocket I'm not out terribly much. If I had to start from scratch and didn't harbor any dumb feels about keeping it all Mazda I would have swapped in an Ecotec, as the kits exist now and it'd be marginally more expensive and make close to what a built BP does out of the box.

Regarding why, the simplicity was a big part of it. The turbo always seemed to require a little bit of work here and there, plus I couldn't really beat on it with impunity (SNC 1.6 had a good bit of crank wobble too). The turbo was immensely fun on the street but for back roads driving and autocross it wasn't nearly as easy or rewarding to drive. For example, going part throttle through a corner, the car will actually try and build boost, so you're actually lifting slightly to keep the speed constant. I admit this could be tuned out with EBC, but I never could seem to get the closed loop control on the megasquirt to work quite right. Power wise I suspect I was making about 180whp with the GT2554r on the 1.6. After I put in the 264/264 cams,upgrade the valve train/shave the head on the BP, and add the flex fuel tune for E85, I should be within spitting distance of that.

That being said, I suspect I am at around 135-140whp with my current setup and don't miss a thing.

tl;dr cars are not about numbers.

Thanks for the write-up. I have a 90 as well. I drove behind my friends '99 and it was feeling a bit slow. Turbo was always in the back of my mind but this kind of swap seems like a better idea, especially if the SNC ever kills my motor.

Great Beer
Jul 5, 2004

Oops. Was rolling up my windows in the driveway and the little box that holds the window switches came out. It clicked back into place in the front but the rear wont go in quite right. Oh well.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
Some nerd was on SlipAngle: http://www.tracktuned.com/feed/2016/5/31/slipangle-episode-77-andrew-kidd-of-trackspeed-engineering

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



How hard is doing a top replacement on an nc, this guy wants over 1k to do it

Bud
Oct 5, 2002

Quite Polite Like Walter Cronkite

mariooncrack posted:

Thanks for the write-up. I have a 90 as well. I drove behind my friends '99 and it was feeling a bit slow. Turbo was always in the back of my mind but this kind of swap seems like a better idea, especially if the SNC ever kills my motor.

If you're going to wait out the SNC for a while, consider looking for deal on a used 1st gen MSPNP. I'm having a pretty great time revving the snot out of mine.

destructo
Apr 29, 2006
For you non-damus' out there, Savington is on the podcast Phone linked. P good stuff.

Bud posted:

If you're going to wait out the SNC for a while, consider looking for deal on a used 1st gen MSPNP. I'm having a pretty great time revving the snot out of mine.
Yeah, this is a pretty great idea, skip the MSPNP and grab something cheaper though (MS1, DIYPNP, etc) as the gains you get are mostly due to fixing the fueling and deleting the AFM. MSPNP1 units are ridiculously overpriced when a MS1 can do the same thing for half price (and a slight eyesore of a harness that you see once when you install the thing).

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Bud
Oct 5, 2002

Quite Polite Like Walter Cronkite
I feel like I've seen people unloading the old mspnp's for cheap. I tend to notice since I have one and like to keep track of what I should expect if I try to sell it, and my first though is uggh not much.
But yeah running a nice map and ditching the afm, plus some exhaust if you are so inclined and I'm satisfied enough to focus on suspension for the foreseeable future.

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