keevo posted:So I'm replacing all of the parts in my current case (Cooler Master Centurion 5) and I'm trying to install the new motherboard (ASrock B150M Pro4) but there aren't any holes in the case for the bottom 3 screws. The older motherboard is longer and that's why it was able to be screwed in properly. Is there a proper way I can make this work or do I need to get a new case? Are there any holes in the mobo tray underneath where the holes on the mobo are? If so you need to remove the standoffs and screw them into those holes, if not your case is not mATX compatible and you will need a new case which is. Some older cases just don't have the holes because mATX mobos were very rare back then.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 00:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 00:42 |
|
|
There's only one hole. Looks like I'm going to have to buy a new case. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 00:52
|
|
|
That's odd since the etching in one of the pictures mentions microATX. You might be OK with just the one hole anyway if it's the one at the bottom, you shouldn't be putting a huge amount of pressure on that part of the board since all of the parts that take force to install tend to be up top.
Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Jun 3, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 01:20
|
|
|
I've been thinking about making the jump to an ultra-wide (3440 x 1440) monitor. I'm looking at the LG that tops out at 75hz with free sync. Will that new AMD card that was announced be able to handle that or should I wait and see what AMD does for the high end market?
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 01:44
|
|
keevo posted:There's only one hole. Looks like I'm going to have to buy a new case. Eletriarnation is right, you might be ok with just one hole, the thing you need to be careful of is any sort of force applied mostly to one side or the other of the bottom of the mobo, it would be bad if it twisted and something got damaged that way. Though it would be good to have a new case if you can afford one, the Centurion was a nice case back in its day but it is very, very old now.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 01:45
|
|
|
keevo posted:There's only one hole. Looks like I'm going to have to buy a new case. The Centurion 5 was discontinued 6 years ago. You probably should get a new case anyway for front USB 3.0, front panel audio jacks that will work with your motherboard, dust filters, and space behind the motherboard tray for routing cables. CoolerMaster N200 or Corsair Carbide 100R should work and be cheap.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 01:47
|
|
xgalaxy posted:I've been thinking about making the jump to an ultra-wide (3440 x 1440) monitor. I'm looking at the LG that tops out at 75hz with free sync. Will that new AMD card that was announced be able to handle that or should I wait and see what AMD does for the high end market? I don't expect the RX 480 to be a good card for that resolution even with freesync, I would wait for the RX 490.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 01:47
|
|
|
AVeryLargeRadish posted:I don't expect the RX 480 to be a good card for that resolution even with freesync, I would wait for the RX 490. That rough level of performance is going to be ~medium settings if my experience with the 290 is any indication, so it depends on what the definition of handle is. I'd recommend a 490 as well, but a 480 in the interim may make sense if he's willing to flip the card within the span of a year.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 02:01
|
|
|
I had asked here about experiments in regards to case airflow and found this article interesting http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 02:25
|
|
xthetenth posted:That rough level of performance is going to be ~medium settings if my experience with the 290 is any indication, so it depends on what the definition of handle is. I'd recommend a 490 as well, but a 480 in the interim may make sense if he's willing to flip the card within the span of a year. Yeah, I'm assuming high settings and a fairly consistent 60 FPS and I think only something like a RX 490 or GTX 1070 will give that and with the 1070 you lose Freesync so the RX 490 is the card that will probably make the most sense. Well, assuming the 490 is within 25% or so of the 1070.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 02:34
|
|
|
Given that the 480 is almost the best we're getting out of Polaris (it's 2304 cores versus a full fat 2560 iirc?), it'll be a relatively long wait for the 490 based off Vega. Reports are saying October/November. 480 and the XR341CK is definitely the budget option versus the 1070 and the X34, that's +$150 on the GPU and +$300 on the monitor to get the green team experience. The XR341CK is getting refreshed soon as the XR342CK so I'd definitely wait for that though (even if only for price drops on the older stuff).
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 02:42
|
|
|
My timeframe is probably end of year anyway. So I think I'll just wait it out for now.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 02:46
|
|
|
Does anyone have any experience with the Aerocool DS-Cube? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3912ET8319 I was thinking about getting it and a magnetic filter for the front fan: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V40T5822&cm_re=DEMCiflex_200mm-_-9SIA85V40T5822-_-Product How easily does the front panel come off? Also, I had heard that the external 3.5" cage must be removed when installing large graphics cards. Is it still possible to install a short card reader such as this with something like a GTX 1070 or 1080? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820223120&cm_re=card_reader-_-20-223-120-_-Product
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 03:15
|
|
Cockmaster posted:Does anyone have any experience with the Aerocool DS-Cube? I know it is well reviewed, very quiet and has some airflow issues that bring temps up a bit. I think that you would need to remove the 3.5" external cage because in the reviews I read it blocked the 6/8-pin power connectors on the card they tried to install which was a 7970, only slightly longer than a GTX 1070/1080. The front panel looks like it is held in via plastic pegs molded into the panel itself.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 03:39
|
|
|
fozzy fosbourne posted:I had asked here about experiments in regards to case airflow and found this article interesting http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1 That was a fascinating read, thank you. I have pets galore or I'd be switching from positive to negative internal pressure right now. Definitely moving a front fan to the side mount, though!
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 04:56
|
|
|
Grapeshot posted:The Centurion 5 was discontinued 6 years ago. You probably should get a new case anyway for front USB 3.0, front panel audio jacks that will work with your motherboard, dust filters, and space behind the motherboard tray for routing cables. CoolerMaster N200 or Corsair Carbide 100R should work and be cheap. I realized the same thing and ended up getting a Corsair 400C from Fry's. I'm starting to wish I had gotten a different motherboard because I'm still having the issues with there not being screws for the bottom.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 05:22
|
|
keevo posted:I realized the same thing and ended up getting a Corsair 400C from Fry's. I'm starting to wish I had gotten a different motherboard because I'm still having the issues with there not being screws for the bottom. Wait a second, what holes are you talking about? Could you take a picture of the whole motherboard and circle the holes that are giving you trouble? I'm asking because the 400C should be compatible so it's strange that you are unable to get it to go in.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 05:38
|
|
|
These first two show where there's supposed to be a screw  These next two show those holes and where the standoffs are.   The rest of it is fine but it's these three holes that have been giving me trouble all day. edit: looking at it again there are holes there but no standoff so i guess i can just move them but i don't know how keevo fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jun 3, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 06:24
|
|
|
keevo posted:These first two show where there's supposed to be a screw You should be able to just unscrew those standoffs from their current spots and then screw them into the holes you need. At least it's that way in the 350D.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 06:41
|
|
|
Use needlenose pliers to grab and unscrew the standoffs and then screw them back into the correct holes with your fingers.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 06:42
|
|
keevo posted:These first two show where there's supposed to be a screw What the others said, you can see holes in the case behind the holes in the mobo, you remove the hex shaped standoffs from their current holes and put them where you need them.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 07:04
|
|
|
I have a Radeon HD 7970, and I'm looking into getting a Vive. Should I stick with the 7970 or look into selling it and buying a rx 480/gtx 1080/90? If so, which one should I go for?
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 07:17
|
|
|
Thanks guys. Made it work. Gonna finish wiring this thing up tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 07:26
|
|
Iamgoofball posted:I have a Radeon HD 7970, and I'm looking into getting a Vive. The 7970 won't be enough for VR, you need a minimum of the GTX 970 or R9 390 for VR, of the current cards coming out I would recommend the GTX 1070 or maybe the RX 490 depending on how the 490 ends up being priced and how fast it is. Either card should be plenty for VR even when the requirements start climbing and will give you a great experience outside of VR. If you cannot afford one of those the RX 480 will probably be the best choice if it lives up to the sort of performance AMD claims it will have. There is also the GTX 1060 which should be enough if speculation about the performance level and price it will target end up true but that card is nothing but rumors and smoke right now and I would expect to see it by August at the earliest. One thing to keep in mind is that the 1080/70/60 have a bunch of features that should greatly speed up their VR performance so for now I would favor them for VR stuff.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 08:07
|
|
|
quote:[PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Any thoughts of if there's anything I need to include in the Win 8.1 install; any software that I should add on, something like Ninite possibly, to keep everything up to date?
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 15:42
|
|
|
AVeryLargeRadish posted:The 7970 won't be enough for VR, you need a minimum of the GTX 970 or R9 390 for VR, of the current cards coming out I would recommend the GTX 1070 or maybe the RX 490 depending on how the 490 ends up being priced and how fast it is. Either card should be plenty for VR even when the requirements start climbing and will give you a great experience outside of VR. If you cannot afford one of those the RX 480 will probably be the best choice if it lives up to the sort of performance AMD claims it will have. There is also the GTX 1060 which should be enough if speculation about the performance level and price it will target end up true but that card is nothing but rumors and smoke right now and I would expect to see it by August at the earliest. One thing to keep in mind is that the 1080/70/60 have a bunch of features that should greatly speed up their VR performance so for now I would favor them for VR stuff. Whoa, I didn't hear about the 1060 et al, had to look that up. Do you have any guesses on what the performance per dollar hero for this generation is going to be, once they're all available? I was assuming 1070 but now I'm not so sure.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 16:15
|
|
|
Computer died so I bought a new PSU. It doesn't have a 4 pin plug thoguh, but my cpu needs only 4 pin. Can I split the 8 pin on the PSU and use that? It is splittable. Edit: Yeah sorry. I googled a bit and it seems I can split it without worries. Sorry for bad post. 8-Bit Dracula fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Jun 3, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 16:18
|
|
|
Yes, it is splittable for that exact reason. Only one side of the 8 pin connector should be the right shape to fit.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 16:25
|
|
|
Eletriarnation posted:Yes, it is splittable for that exact reason. Only one side of the 8 pin connector should be the right shape to fit. Edited before I read this. Thank you for answering my poo poo question!
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 16:27
|
|
|
So, I replaced my old PSU. Now the light on the gpu is on however the computer still wont start. No fans, nothing. I've checked the connections from the front panel and everything's all right. Likely the mobo is dead right? Every connection is in place.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 17:10
|
|
8-Bit Dracula posted:So, I replaced my old PSU. Now the light on the gpu is on however the computer still wont start. No fans, nothing. I've checked the connections from the front panel and everything's all right. Check it by removing everything but the CPU and one stick of RAM, if your mobo lacks built in video outputs you will need to keep the GPU in there too. If it does not boot then try with the other stick of RAM if you have one, if it still won't boot check all the wires connecting both to the new PSU and to the mobo to make sure they are fully connected, if non of this works then it is likely that the PSU failure took the mobo out along with it. If you can get it to boot start adding stuff back in until you find the component that was causing the failure to boot. Though with noting happening at all I suspect that the mobo is dead, it's still worth checking everything just in case.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 17:36
|
|
|
AVeryLargeRadish posted:Check it by removing everything but the CPU and one stick of RAM, if your mobo lacks built in video outputs you will need to keep the GPU in there too. If it does not boot then try with the other stick of RAM if you have one, if it still won't boot check all the wires connecting both to the new PSU and to the mobo to make sure they are fully connected, if non of this works then it is likely that the PSU failure took the mobo out along with it. If you can get it to boot start adding stuff back in until you find the component that was causing the failure to boot. Thank you! Will try this, although I suspect as you say, I might as well start looking for replacement parts.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 19:05
|
|
|
AVeryLargeRadish posted:I know it is well reviewed, very quiet and has some airflow issues that bring temps up a bit. I think that you would need to remove the 3.5" external cage because in the reviews I read it blocked the 6/8-pin power connectors on the card they tried to install which was a 7970, only slightly longer than a GTX 1070/1080. The front panel looks like it is held in via plastic pegs molded into the panel itself. Are there any good alternatives as far as mini-ITX cases go? I'm looking for low noise, filtered intake fans, and the ability to fit a GTX 1070 or 1080 plus a Cooler Master 212-X CPU cooler (158mm high). I was considering the Fractal R5, but it't be nice to have something smaller.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 19:37
|
|
|
Is it even worth exploring some overclocking of an i5-760, or is it not worth the hassle? I want my computer to remain (fairly) silent, it's just that it's by far the biggest bottlneck in my five-year-old computer at this point.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 19:38
|
|
|
When I went to add more RAM to my PC I may have not gone the best route. I used to have 2x2GB sticks of this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820178265 When that wasn't enough, I then did minimal research and bought this a year or two ago and tossed it in: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231313 My question is are the different CAS latencies, timing, voltages, etc between the two (and the 2x2GB vs 1x4GB) hurting performance at all? Would I notice any difference buying another of the G.Skill 4GB sticks and replacing the old stuff? I only just noticed this stuff when looking at my old newegg orders, PC hasn't caught fire or anything so it works but I'm not sure how optimal it is.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 19:54
|
|
|
Does anyone make something that rivals the R5 in quality but has more complete filter coverage? Or are there add-on filters that don't cost an arm and a leg? Something else I'm not thinking of? The airflow experiment linked earlier indicated that for three fans or fewer, the side panel fan is the most useful intake, and that in three fan setups two exhausts (top and rear nearest the cpu) perform better than two intakes. I just moved my stuff into a Fractal Design R5 with three fans, to get positive pressure and keep out pet hair. It works spectacularly. But my tired old graphics card has been getting awfully hot in there. I want to try those fan setups and see if I get any improvement, but the R5 only has filters on the bottom and front. I'm worried that an unfiltered side intake is going to suck in cat hair, even with positive case pressure. On top of doing two exhausts instead of two intakes, they also recommend leaving unused vents open if you don't mind the noise. But both of those seem out of the question while I'm living in Hairball City. Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Jun 3, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 19:57
|
|
Cockmaster posted:Are there any good alternatives as far as mini-ITX cases go? I'm looking for low noise, filtered intake fans, and the ability to fit a GTX 1070 or 1080 plus a Cooler Master 212-X CPU cooler (158mm high). Get the Fractal Design Define Nano S, it will fit all that stuff and is noise dampened and fully dust filtered. The only thing you need to make sure of is that your PSU will fit, it can only fit ones up to 160mm in length.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 20:03
|
|
Larrymer posted:When I went to add more RAM to my PC I may have not gone the best route. I used to have 2x2GB sticks of this: As long as the current RAM works you are fine, your motherboard will automatically set all the ram to the same frequency and timings and it appears that those settings work for both sets otherwise you would already be having problems.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 20:06
|
|
|
Cockmaster posted:Are there any good alternatives as far as mini-ITX cases go? I'm looking for low noise, filtered intake fans, and the ability to fit a GTX 1070 or 1080 plus a Cooler Master 212-X CPU cooler (158mm high). The Fractal Design Nano S is just a shrunk down version of the R5, and should fit the bill nicely.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 20:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 00:42 |
|
|
ufarn posted:Is it even worth exploring some overclocking of an i5-760, or is it not worth the hassle? I want my computer to remain (fairly) silent, it's just that it's by far the biggest bottlneck in my five-year-old computer at this point. It doesn't have the optimization improvements that come with newer systems but it's still a quad core that may have the potential to reach a fairly high clock speed, so if you have good cooling and a motherboard that allows it then it's not a bad idea to try. Here's a guide on the very similar 750: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/core-i5-750-overclock,2438.html They were able to get up to the 3.6GHz stock speed of the i7-870 without any voltage increases, which is a ~30% improvement over stock (if we ignore the effect of Turbo Boost) so well worth a bit of effort. As long as your cooling is sufficient then you don't face any risk of damage from this. If you go too high and it's not getting through POST, your motherboard may (probably will) have a feature that automatically uses last known good settings but if that's not the case and you can't get it to boot then a CMOS reset will get you back on course. More likely, you won't notice any stability issues with a too-high OC until you get into Windows and it will work well enough for you to go back into BIOS and set things right. Going farther requires caution, but with voltage increases they got it to 4.2 stable. You probably don't want to stay at the highest speed that you can get stable by tweaking voltage though - as they say in the article, power use gets out of control at really high voltages and you will burn the chip out over the long term. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Jun 3, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 21:40
|
|