|
Doesn't make a lot of sense, I'd eliminate it if I was working on the line otherwise I'd ignore it. Possibly could cause some minor amount of turbulence in the line and doesn't really serve a purpose.
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2016 05:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 04:47 |
|
|
Jadunk posted:Doesn't make a lot of sense, I'd eliminate it if I was working on the line otherwise I'd ignore it. Possibly could cause some minor amount of turbulence in the line and doesn't really serve a purpose. I guess my question is there a good reason I should remove it, a really good (not theoretical) reason? Because it would be a pain in the rear end to remove it. I can't think of one. I understand the basic physics of pipe diameter, speed vs pressure. Water will lose speed when it enters the 3/4 pipe but when the pipe fills (air expelled) the overall pressure of the system should be maintained (?)
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2016 05:35
|
|
|
wormil posted:I guess my question is there a good reason I should remove it, a really good (not theoretical) reason? Because it would be a pain in the rear end to remove it. I can't think of one. I understand the basic physics of pipe diameter, speed vs pressure. Water will lose speed when it enters the 3/4 pipe but when the pipe fills (air expelled) the overall pressure of the system should be maintained (?) Connections are usually where leaks occur. Less connections, less chance of leaks!
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 02:41
|
|
|
wormil posted:I understand the basic physics of pipe diameter, speed vs pressure. Water will lose speed when it enters the 3/4 pipe but when the pipe fills (air expelled) the overall pressure of the system should be maintained (?) Correct. You aren't choking it down from 3/4 to 1/2 which can cause volume issues. It probably won't cause any huge issues but I got no clue why it was installed, where it was installed, how difficult it would be to remove, what work is going on to prompt this or any of a bunch of other details. As I said, if I was already working on the line I would probably replace that with 1/2. Take that for what its worth.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 03:04
|
|
|
devicenull posted:Connections are usually where leaks occur. Less connections, less chance of leaks! Well it's a trunk line to a bathroom so there will be lots of connections (sink, toilet, shower/bath, washer), this only adds two to all those. Jadunk posted:I got no clue why it was installed I was told that pex has a much smaller ID than copper and that 3/4 pex is closer to 1/2 copper than 1/2 pex. So when the original polybutylene broke, I replaced it with 3/4 pex. Now I'm replacing all the polybutylene downline. So it's going from 1/2 copper, to 3/4 pex, to 1/2 pex. I could replace the 3/4 but I'd have to buy new fittings and crawl 40' on my hands and knees in a pitch black crawl space filled with damp earth, crickets, and concrete rubble, so shallow I have to work while leaning sideways. I could do it, but I don't want to unless there is a good reason. And apparently real plumbers don't want to do it either judging by the ridiculous quotes they give me, like $800 for a job that took me 10 minutes and $5. Over the years I've hired 4 plumbers and only one of them knew his rear end from a hole in the ground. The rest I had to redo the work myself and I definitely don't know my rear end from a hole in the ground when it comes to plumbing. When I bought a fridge it came with free installation and the guy hosed up the icemaker connection so I'm getting ready to redo that. Overall this pex stuff has been a pain in the rear end. It's easy, in a way, but there is a learning curve, the pieces are expensive, and there isn't any website or video that gives you the full story. It's all pieces that you have to assemble.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 06:30
|
|
|
I'm having trouble with keeping the pilot light lit on my gas water heater. The first time it went out was Saturday. I was able to get it back on going through the lighting procedure. Then, it went out again on Wednesday. This time I had to hold the pilot lighting for a good 3 minutes before it would stay lit. The pilot was out again this morning so I relit it and it went out after the tank got up to the correct temperature. So, I tried to light the pilot and was having even more difficulty. I did notice that the gas control was warm to the touch, not sure if that is supposed to happen or not. It took me a good 5-6 minutes of holding down the pilot to get it to stay lit. So, would this be the gas control valve that's bad or the thermocouple?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 12:44
|
|
|
RE: Last page's water heater chat Works great, look how efficient it is! (Or gas was a lot cheaper 22 years ago.) I'm not going to touch this thing. It is working just fine and I am not jinxing it by posting it here. Still have 7 months left on the home warranty though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 16:29
|
|
|
Gatla posted:I'm having trouble with keeping the pilot light lit on my gas water heater. The first time it went out was Saturday. I was able to get it back on going through the lighting procedure. Then, it went out again on Wednesday. This time I had to hold the pilot lighting for a good 3 minutes before it would stay lit. The pilot was out again this morning so I relit it and it went out after the tank got up to the correct temperature. So, I tried to light the pilot and was having even more difficulty. I did notice that the gas control was warm to the touch, not sure if that is supposed to happen or not. It took me a good 5-6 minutes of holding down the pilot to get it to stay lit. So, would this be the gas control valve that's bad or the thermocouple? Usually it's the thermocouple. When the flame sensor goes bad, it can't detect a flame anymore and shuts off the gas, just like it's supposed to. If you've been trying to get it to light right before you decide to pull the old one out, wait for it to cool down so you don't burn your fingers.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 18:27
|
|
|
wormil posted:I was told that pex has a much smaller ID than copper and that 3/4 pex is closer to 1/2 copper than 1/2 pex. While there is something to that, 1/2 PEX is still closer to 1/2 type L copper (.06 difference in ID) than 3/4 (0.136 difference in ID). Yes, 1/2 PEX has a smaller ID than 1/2 type L but you shouldn't really worry about it. quote:Overall this pex stuff has been a pain in the rear end. It's easy, in a way, but there is a learning curve, the pieces are expensive, and there isn't any website or video that gives you the full story. It's all pieces that you have to assemble. Expensive? It's cheaper than copper unless you're doing something silly like using sharkbites to make your connections. How cheap the material is and how easy it is to install are the two major things that have caused old school plumbers to fight against the stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 05:33
|
|
|
Jadunk posted:Expensive? It's cheaper than copper True, Pex is cheaper than copper. I was thinking of the connectors which are the same or higher and they don't come in as many varieties and there are very few adapters. Add to that Lowes and HD don't carry all available connectors or adapters so I have to go back and forth to both stores to get what I need. Example, apparently there is no adapter for a washer spigot and you can't buy pex spigots separately so I have to spend $40 on an outlet box I don't need to get $15 of spigots. Mostly it's just that I don't like doing plumbing and am whining. Copper is not an option here. Put copper in your house in this city and when you come home from vacation it'll be gone and your house is flooded. I know people who have ripped out perfectly good copper and replaced it so they wouldn't have to worry about thieves. Three of my immediate neighbors had their copper stolen, I'm considering replacing all of mine with pex.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 06:03
|
|
|
IMNAP I'm pretty sure I've read here for fixtures you are suppose to run pex to the wall then a short run of copper to the fixture. Pex flexes and moves like a wet noodle so it's preferable to have the last foot or so as copper for a more rigid fixture and less leak trouble later on. Edit: just curious, niagara falls usa? I hear thr police blotter for that area and dick are always taking copper and water tanks from houses.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 12:53
|
|
|
If people break into inhabited dwellings to steal copper pipes in your neighborhood you should probably think about moving, man. Jesus.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 14:03
|
|
|
stupid puma posted:If people break into inhabited dwellings to steal copper pipes in your neighborhood you should probably think about moving, man. Jesus. Thank you for your evaluation. I chose this area for specific reasons and for 18 years no one even bothered to lock their doors because there was zero crime then a group of criminals came to the area and the cops are doing gently caress all about it. They watch for a house to go up for sale or occasionally someone to leave on vacation then come and take all the copper pipes and the HVAC unit. They are incredibly good at not getting caught. Even with the neighborhood on alert and watching they are still succeeding somehow.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 16:05
|
|
|
Shoot them
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 16:26
|
|
|
oldpainless posted:Shoot them
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 16:54
|
|
|
Nitrox posted:Who? Exactly.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 17:24
|
|
|
Shoot the police. While dressed like hamburglar.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 17:56
|
|
|
"For Rodney Burger King!!"
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 18:57
|
|
|
wormil posted:Thank you for your evaluation. I chose this area for specific reasons and for 18 years no one even bothered to lock their doors because there was zero crime then a group of criminals came to the area and the cops are doing gently caress all about it. They watch for a house to go up for sale or occasionally someone to leave on vacation then come and take all the copper pipes and the HVAC unit. They are incredibly good at not getting caught. Even with the neighborhood on alert and watching they are still succeeding somehow. So do you put a big sign on your lawn that says "No Copper Plumbing Here"?
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 20:56
|
|
|
Yeah, aren't they going to still rip all your walls open looking for the sweet sweet copper?
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 21:55
|
|
|
We all have crawlspaces with an exterior entrance. 2 seconds with a flashlight tells them if you have copper, 4 seconds if you have a lock. The metal recycler now has cameras and records the DL of every person bringing in copper. They won't accept hvac units unless you are a contractor. The cops... well I don't know what they are doing. And yet the criminals continued to be successful. Some of us put in cameras and advertised it and that seems to have slowed them down.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2016 01:54
|
|
|
Price of scrap copper is also down.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2016 04:07
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:Price of scrap copper is also down.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2016 05:31
|
|
|
Pretty obvious from your posts that it's the cops stealing the pipes.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2016 15:30
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Pretty obvious from your posts that it's the cops stealing the pipes.  Forums Poster "FogHelmut" Blows Cop Copper Caper Wide Open
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2016 16:40
|
|
|
How do you connect these washing machine valves to PEX? I found a 1/2" NPT adapter but it only screws on about half a turn and I can't find anything else that fits.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2016 21:47
|
|
|
wormil posted:How do you connect these washing machine valves to PEX? I found a 1/2" NPT adapter but it only screws on about half a turn and I can't find anything else that fits. NPT threads are supposed to be tight. To make the seal, they partially deform in addition to the thread sealant. As an alternative for washing machine valves, you might want to try PEX drop ear elbows.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2016 00:23
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:NPT threads are supposed to be tight. To make the seal, they partially deform in addition to the thread sealant. Thanks. Well I put it on and cranked it down with some Teflon tape.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2016 01:26
|
|
|
That Pex adapter leaked like crazy. Two of us together can't tighten it enough to stop the leak. I found exactly what I need, called a boiler drain and has a 1/2" pex fitting.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2016 00:11
|
|
|
wormil posted:That Pex adapter leaked like crazy. Two of us together can't tighten it enough to stop the leak. What were you trying to mate it to? I use PEX extensively and have never had a problem.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2016 02:04
|
|
|
nm, wasting my time. VVVVVVV what does it matter, same threads wormil fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jun 8, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2016 04:08
|
|
|
wormil posted:Why do they not make pex valves that you can buy separately? https://www.doitbest.com/products/c...9702d1b9e2d4e00 Also, why does your picture show an old, used boiler valve while you gave a link to a new one? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Jun 8, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2016 04:35
|
|
|
wormil posted:That Pex adapter leaked like crazy. Two of us together can't tighten it enough to stop the leak. I found exactly what I need, called a boiler drain and has a 1/2" pex fitting. Man, you're giving me flashbacks from trades school. "Christ, I've tightened this like four turns and now I'm burying it into the fitting and it still leaks GOD loving DAMNIT gently caress PIPES gently caress PLUMBING WHY DID I EVER PICK THIS JOB AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA  "
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2016 05:02
|
|
|
wormil posted:nm, wasting my time. Not entirely the same. Remember how I said that the threads deform? Well, used parts have used threads. It isn't common, but it is possible for threads to get so deformed once used that they will only ever properly seal with the part they were attached to. That valve in your picture definitely has been used before, with those deposits on its packing nut.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2016 20:47
|
|
|
I have this faucet on my shower Its calcified and drips and only does "warm" or "hot." I'd like to replace it. I don't know what is involved in this. I don't want to just replace the cartridge. I'm going to assume this is original with the house from the mid 1970's, only because its the same faucet on all of the showers. I'm seeing these sold in components - like valve bodies, faucet handle "valve trim", etc. Will I need to get in the wall and solder in new stuff? I don't see any stamps or logos as to who it is made by. Should I just assume that I have to replace everything?
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2016 17:10
|
|
|
I live in a tiny house, like cooking, and don't like doing a lot of dishes. So I'm picking up a portable dishwasher. I'm looking at this Whirlpool. http://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-24-125-in-55-Decibel-Portable-Dishwasher-White/50238313 It has better reviews than the GE one that Lowe's carries, and Whirlpool has a better rating than GE for dishwashers on Consumer Reports. The documentation warns that I can't use the portable dishwasher on a sink with a sprayer hose, because the sprayer line will explode. Is it possible to replace the sprayer line with something more durable, or do I have to choose between dishwasher and sprayer hose?
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2016 21:10
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:I have this faucet on my shower If you want a new fixture, then you need to replace the old one. Unfortunately for showers, that means tearing into the wall, cutting out the old valve body and soldering in a new one. That can be done from the either side of the wall. About the only thing you can replace on a shower faucet to update its look without going into the wall is the handles and maybe the escutcheon. Look closer on the escutcheon. There should be a maker's mark on it. If not, take the handle off and take that into the hardware store. See what stems it fits. That should help you narrow down who made it. Otherwise, you need to do the same thing with the cartridge.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2016 22:25
|
|
|
kelvron posted:I live in a tiny house, like cooking, and don't like doing a lot of dishes. So I'm picking up a portable dishwasher. I'm looking at this Whirlpool. http://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-24-125-in-55-Decibel-Portable-Dishwasher-White/50238313 Tiny house? This one is slightly smaller and as an added bonus the sweethome liked it much better than the whirlpool http://www.homedepot.com/p/Danby-18-in-Portable-Dishwasher-in-White-with-8-Place-Setting-Capacity-DDW1801MWP/206863856
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2016 00:35
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Its calcified and drips and only does "warm" or "hot." I'd like to replace it. I don't know what is involved in this. I don't want to just replace the cartridge. I'm going to assume this is original with the house from the mid 1970's, only because its the same faucet on all of the showers. Can you take more pictures of the shower handle? Maybe start taking it apart bit by bit taking pictures after taking each piece off. It looks like it might be an old delta monitor but I'd need more pictures to be sure at all. If you can figure out the manufacturer / model you may be able to get new trim (handle, escutcheon, etc) that will fit it and do that + cartridge. Otherwise yeah, you're opening the wall.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2016 06:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 04:47 |
|
|
Qwijib0 posted:Tiny house? This one is slightly smaller and as an added bonus the sweethome liked it much better than the whirlpool That looks a lot better. Never heard of Danby, so I avoided them initially. Sweet home looks pretty reputable too. Still looking for an answer to my other question about portable dishwashers and sink sprayers. Is it something thats fixable? Or will I have to lose my sprayer to get the portable dishwasher?
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2016 19:36
|
|