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22 Eargesplitten posted:I doubt there's going to be an answer to this, but I might as well give it a shot. Is there any way to find information on the background pictures used on the screen before login? I love some of those photos, but they change every day so I never see them after that day. This link seems to provide what you're probably looking for. I was able to follow the steps and produced at least one image, but basically: * Bing/Windows customizes images based upon your feedback, grabbing them from their servers. These are temporary and tend to cycle out, so an image that you saw isn't guaranteed to still be stored on your PC. * They're stored in: C: > Users > [Your User Name] > AppData > Local > Packages > Microsoft.Windows.ContentDeliveryManager_cw5n1h2txyewy > LocalState > Assets. Inside that folder are a bunch of hex strings. Pick out the largest size file, copy it, throw it somewhere (ie- your Desktop) and rename it by adding a .jpg extension to allow you to view it as a picture.
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Jun 3, 2016 23:39
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PerrineClostermann posted:Is there a way to get a Windows 10 license with my Windows 8.1 install, without actually installing Windows 10? If you don't want to install Windows 10, you will have to buy a Windows 10 upgrade license as you would have bought an upgrade license for any other Windows release (or just regular Windows 10).
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Jun 3, 2016 23:44
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Do the gods take the sacrifice of a lamb of any age for Win 10 to update correctly? Or is there a specific range I should shoot for?
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Jun 3, 2016 23:49
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So I am building a new PC for myself, and I have a question on getting my Windows 10 over to the new computer. I know that when you take the free upgrade, it doesn't give you a product key and ties it to the current motherboard. Well, I'm upgrading to a new motherboard and an SSD for the OS. I'd like to clone my installation over to the new SSD/motherboard, but I'm pretty sure given what I've been told that it won't just let me run my free upgrade version of Windows 10 on the new computer. I've got no problem with buying another copy of Windows 10. Will I be able to use the key that comes with it to activate my old install on the new machine? Or would I be better off just doing a clean install and then transferring my files over manually and just skipping the cloning altogether?
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Jun 4, 2016 00:34
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AegisP posted:This link seems to provide what you're probably looking for. I was able to follow the steps and produced at least one image, but basically: Cool, thanks. I seriously doubt anyone else with this question is ever going to see my reply, but if you want to change all of them to .jpgs, put them in their own folder, open a command line in that folder, and type ren * *.jpg. That renames all of the files in the folder to the same name but with a .jpg extension.
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Jun 4, 2016 00:34
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fishmech posted:If you don't want to install Windows 10, you will have to buy a Windows 10 upgrade license as you would have bought an upgrade license for any other Windows release (or just regular Windows 10). Does imaging the drive, upgrading, and restoring the image work, then?
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Jun 4, 2016 04:48
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ToxicFrog posted:As in, you did a hardware upgrade, W10 deactivated, and you got it to prompt you for a key, entered your W7 key, and it started working again? Without needing to reinstall or contact support? Because everything I've read says that can't be done, and if that's wrong, I would love to know it.
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Jun 4, 2016 12:14
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PerrineClostermann posted:Does imaging the drive, upgrading, and restoring the image work, then? Yes, the license will remain valid for that hardware configuration.
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Jun 4, 2016 15:28
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I finally decided to upgrade to Windows 10 from 7, but when I tell it to download, the pop-up just gets stuck on a "starting download" screen and doesn't go anywhere from there. Help? Edit: Nevermind, downloading this looks like it fixed it. I'll update this post again if it doesn't work. surf rock fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Jun 4, 2016 |
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Jun 4, 2016 16:16
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PerrineClostermann posted:Does imaging the drive, upgrading, and restoring the image work, then? You can also disconnect your current drive[s], attach a spare, install 10 using your 7 key (with a November or newer image only), and then swap back to the original drive[s] if that's easier. The hardware signature that determines if your previous activations remain valid isn't tied to which drive you use at all. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Jun 4, 2016 |
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Jun 4, 2016 16:48
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surf rock posted:I finally decided to upgrade to Windows 10 from 7, but when I tell it to download, the pop-up just gets stuck on a "starting download" screen and doesn't go anywhere from there. Help? That link downloads the original July 2015 build 10240 image of Windows 10 so far as I know. Windows 10 https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10/ This one grabs the latest image.
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Jun 4, 2016 17:04
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WattsvilleBlues posted:That link downloads the original July 2015 build 10240 image of Windows 10 so far as I know.
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Jun 4, 2016 17:50
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Flipperwaldt posted:It's the exact same link, but for Australians. I think you misread or something. The original Media Creation Tool that came in 32- and 64-bit variants still downloads the 10240 build. The Media Creation Tool that I linked, that is a single tool for 32- and 64-bit, should download the 1511 version with updates up to May 2016.
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Jun 4, 2016 19:32
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WattsvilleBlues posted:The original Media Creation Tool that came in 32- and 64-bit variants still downloads the 10240 build. The Media Creation Tool that I linked, that is a single tool for 32- and 64-bit, should download the 1511 version with updates up to May 2016. Both his and your sites have the same download link http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=691209
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Jun 4, 2016 20:27
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Alright, this is such a headache and I guess I was overconfident earlier due to the initial apparent success of the Media Creation Tool. I'm entering hour six of trying to do this drat Windows 10 update. Here's my situation: - I have Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit on a Lenovo Thinkpad T530 with 12 GB of RAM and an Intel Core i5-3230M processor on a good wi-fi connection. - Besides Chrome running two tabs of SomethingAwful, I'm not doing anything else with the computer that might be drawing resources. - When I use the Windows 10 pop-up, it hangs on "Starting download" but doesn't start. - When I use Windows Update, it hangs on "Checking for updates" but doesn't start. - When I use the Media Creation Tool (both the old one and the new one that got linked after my last post), it lets me accept some licensing agreements and even download it, but then it starts "Getting updates" but doesn't start. - My computer and internet seem to be working entirely fine otherwise. I've tried streaming HD video without encountering any issues. In all three cases, they don't even seem to start. They either don't begin or they show 0% progress. Here's what I've tried so far: - Rebooting my computer. - As admin, opening cmd and typing "net stop wuauserv" and then "net start wuauserv" to reboot Windows Update. - Deleting file C:\Windows\SoftwareDistribution\DataStore\DataStore.edb and rebooting. - Running the Windows Update troubleshooter before and during the upgrade process. It also just "checks for problems" forever. - Uninstalling my antivirus program (Avast). - Using multiple pathways (pop-up, Update, Media Creation Tool) to upgrade. - The last step I tried was using this tool to reset Windows Update. It said it fixed everything except for this: "Windows Update error 0x80070057 (2016-06-04-T-02_35_18P)." The only fix I saw for that was downloading Windows6.1-KB3102810-x64 directly from Microsoft's website onto a USB, shutting off wi-fi, rebooting the computer, and installing it. That didn't work either, though. I just don't know what to do anymore, this is so frustrating. I have no idea what I'm doing at this point. Edit: I ended up using a system backup from a couple of weeks ago and tried running the installation. It didn't work from the pop-up, but the Media Creation Tool worked this time. I have no idea why, but whatever, the drat update is finished and Windows 10 seems fine. surf rock fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 4, 2016 20:59
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fishmech posted:Yes, the license will remain valid for that hardware configuration. Eletriarnation posted:You can also disconnect your current drive[s], attach a spare, install 10 using your 7 key (with a November or newer image only), and then swap back to the original drive[s] if that's easier. The hardware signature that determines if your previous activations remain valid isn't tied to which drive you use at all. So it's tied to the hardware, nontransferable? drat, that means I need to actually build this computer soon...
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Jun 4, 2016 21:28
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PerrineClostermann posted:So it's tied to the hardware, nontransferable? drat, that means I need to actually build this computer soon... Yes. Do you remember back in like, the transition from 7 to 8, or Vista to 7 or XP to Vista, where you could buy certain desktops/laptops a few months before the new OS would come out but still get a free upgrade to the new OS? It's the same sort of idea, the same hardware-tied license. It's just now it applies to any computer with 7 or 8 on it that can run 10, instead of just a few select ones. Anyway you still have like a month and a half to upgrade.
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Jun 4, 2016 21:41
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Thanks for the low disk space upgrade advice. I was able to free up enough disk space using some of the tips, but ended up having to use the Media Creation Tool anyway because upgrading through Windows Update kept failing.
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Jun 4, 2016 21:45
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Rusty! posted:Exactly right, except my key was for Windows 8 (which I'm sure has no bearing on things). Awesome! How did you get it to prompt you for the key? Did it just do it automatically on boot after the hardware change?
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Jun 4, 2016 22:14
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ToxicFrog posted:Awesome! How did you get it to prompt you for the key? Did it just do it automatically on boot after the hardware change? You should always have the option to Change Product Key in the System control panel, under the Activation heading. If nothing else you get the option to enter a new during activation.
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Jun 4, 2016 22:22
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Last Chance posted:Do the gods take the sacrifice of a lamb of any age for Win 10 to update correctly? Or is there a specific range I should shoot for? Updated my FIL's Win7 desktop (fully generic, not OEM, so there's that) to Win10 on Sunday. Took me about 30 min of other setup (creating a new 'guest' account, etc) and everything was a-ok. About 10 minutes of showing him around with a few pointers on what's different and what's the same and done. The difficulties with updating to Win10 have been greatly overestimated (and are probably more linked with people using OEM desktops stuffed with shitware than anything else).
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Jun 6, 2016 18:39
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AlexDeGruven posted:The difficulties with updating to Win10 have been greatly overestimated (and are probably more linked with people using OEM desktops stuffed with shitware than anything else). Remember when XP SP2 came out right around the time that malware injecting itself in to the network stack was becoming a thing? The changes to SP2's network stack caused a lot of those things to break when updated, leaving those users without working networking until they reinstalled. Somehow that was Microsoft's fault too. The moral of the story seems to be that if you ever have a situation where a user or their application does something wrong but it still works, they expect to be able to do that forever and it's your fault if you ever fix the bug that allowed it to work in the first place, or if they just depended on internal behaviors that aren't documented and are subject to change.
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Jun 6, 2016 19:30
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wolrah posted:Remember when XP SP2 came out right around the time that malware injecting itself in to the network stack was becoming a thing? The changes to SP2's network stack caused a lot of those things to break when updated, leaving those users without working networking until they reinstalled. Same thing with Vista and bad RAM. Since Vista did pre-caching where XP didn't, RAM never got used in XP until it was actually used. Suddenly "OMG VISTA BROKED MY RAMZ!".
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Jun 6, 2016 19:47
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AlexDeGruven posted:Same thing with Vista and bad RAM. Since Vista did pre-caching where XP didn't, RAM never got used in XP until it was actually used. Suddenly "OMG VISTA BROKED MY RAMZ!". Granted, as far as that goes I do think it's the right call to do what they did in Vista SP1 and Windows 7 where they didn't actually change the behavior, they just hid the cache usage from the graph. Showing the user that their RAM is nearly entirely used at all times doesn't really help them if they're trying to diagnose performance issues.
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Jun 6, 2016 20:59
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wolrah posted:Granted, as far as that goes I do think it's the right call to do what they did in Vista SP1 and Windows 7 where they didn't actually change the behavior, they just hid the cache usage from the graph. Showing the user that their RAM is nearly entirely used at all times doesn't really help them if they're trying to diagnose performance issues. Oh for sure. I was talking more about people with actually bad RAM who were fine until superfetch started actually using it.
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Jun 7, 2016 00:12
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Is there a fix for the DPI scaling in Windows 10? It's driving me crazy. Running at 100% is just to small for my resolution/eyes, 125% makes certain things blurry, which was never a problem in Windows 7.
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Jun 8, 2016 17:43
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Im_Special posted:Is there a fix for the DPI scaling in Windows 10? It's driving me crazy. Running at 100% is just to small for my resolution/eyes, 125% makes certain things blurry, which was never a problem in Windows 7. I run at 150% and disable display scaling selectively for bad/old apps. Works pretty well.
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Jun 8, 2016 18:08
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Factor Mystic posted:I run at 150% and disable display scaling selectively for bad/old apps. Works pretty well. How do you adjust it per app?
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Jun 9, 2016 02:00
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Im_Special posted:Is there a fix for the DPI scaling in Windows 10? It's driving me crazy. Running at 100% is just to small for my resolution/eyes, 125% makes certain things blurry, which was never a problem in Windows 7. There are instructions here for disabling DPI scaling on a per-application basis https://support.microsoft.com/en-ca/kb/2900023
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Jun 9, 2016 02:04
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Col.Kiwi posted:I have run both 125% and 150% in windows 10 on my HTPC and it's mostly been a really good experience. Windows itself (everywhere I've looked) and well-written programs have no problem with scaling. Some poorly-written/poorly-behaved programs have issues with it but I personally have only had issues on one program I actually use. If I could get to work on Outlook :/
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Jun 9, 2016 04:50
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Col.Kiwi posted:Windows itself (everywhere I've looked) and well-written programs have no problem with scaling. Most Windows management tools (Event viewer, Device Manager, Performance Monitor, Firewall for example)look like poop on any scaling that's not 100%
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Jun 9, 2016 10:51
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SinineSiil posted:Most Windows management tools (Event viewer, Device Manager, Performance Monitor, Firewall for example)look like poop on any scaling that's not 100%
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Jun 11, 2016 02:35
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A quick google for "Windows 10 DPI blurry" shows this is a well known issue, apparently MS decided to use a different scaling method for Windows 10 instead of the one they've been using since Vista and later to better accommodate for tablets and phones, there is a registry tweak one can do to fix this bringing back the old Vista/7/8.1 scaling, but Windows 10 resets this change ever two reboots, thus a program is needed at startup to keep up with the change. There is this (google "windows 10 dpi fix" to get some xpexplorer.com site (linking the url for some reason doesn't parse here /shrug)), but I have not tired it yet.
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Jun 11, 2016 05:26
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Hey guys I just did a clean install of Windows 10 after doing an upgrade from Windows 8.1 but now it's telling me that my copy can't be activated because there's no digital entitlement or product key. I haven't changed any hardware so I don't understand why I'm getting this message. I tried entering my Windows 8.1 key but it wouldn't accept it.
keevo fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Jun 11, 2016 |
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Jun 11, 2016 05:28
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keevo posted:Hey guys I just did a clean install of Windows 10 after doing an upgrade from Windows 8.1 but now it's telling me that my copy can't be activated because there's no digital entitlement or product key. I haven't changed any hardware so I don't understand why I'm getting this message. I tried entering my Windows 8.1 key but it wouldn't accept it. Do you have the correct version installed that matches the key? E.g. do you have Windows 10 Home installed if you have a Windows 8.1 Home key and not Windows 10 Pro?
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Jun 11, 2016 05:43
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gently caress. Looks like I'll have to re-install this then. Can I just re-install Windows 10 Home or do I need to do the upgrade from 8.1?
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Jun 11, 2016 05:45
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keevo posted:gently caress. Looks like I'll have to re-install this then. Can I just re-install Windows 10 Home or do I need to do the upgrade from 8.1? No, if you install Windows 10 from scratch (the version that matches your key!) then you can just plug in the 8.1 key during or after installation, it will activate.
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Jun 11, 2016 05:47
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Arsten posted:No, if you install Windows 10 from scratch (the version that matches your key!) then you can just plug in the 8.1 key during or after installation, it will activate. Re-installing and choosing Windows 10 Home did the trick. Thanks.
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Jun 11, 2016 09:51
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dud root posted:How do you adjust it per app? Right click the app, properties, compatibility tab, "disable display scaling on high dpi settings"
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Jun 12, 2016 17:45
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Is there a way to change display scaling for modern apps? Facebook messenger is not usable when it's activated. I thought modern apps were meant to natively support it?
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Jun 12, 2016 18:17
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