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Chromium won't, but the steel will.
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Jun 5, 2016 20:13
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So I find out today that my GW 'ardcoat from 10 years ago has solidified into gelatinous cubes. They worked fine 6 months ago, oh well. Is there another company that makes similar gloss brush-on varnish but cheaper (lol)? If not, I don't mind buying GW again, assuming they still have the same quality as they did 10 years ago. The stuff lasts for ages - approximately 9.5 years at that. I know that the OP lists liquitex as selling varnishes as well but I've never tried them nor have I tried any other company. I want something that acts just like 'Ardcoat but cheaper if I can get it. If not, I'll buy GW. Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 23:36
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I'd just go with Liquitex if I were you. I haven't used 'ardcoat, but I'm sure it's almost identical to gloss varnish for artists.
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Jun 5, 2016 23:44
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Avenging Dentist posted:I'd just go with Liquitex if I were you. I haven't used 'ardcoat, but I'm sure it's almost identical to gloss varnish for artists. OK. I already use Liquitex medium for my blending mixes so I trust them. I just wanted recommendations based on how viscous it is, but I wouldn't be surprised to learn it's all the same thing.
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Jun 5, 2016 23:47
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Chill la Chill posted:OK. I already use Liquitex medium for my blending mixes so I trust them. I just wanted recommendations based on how viscous it is, but I wouldn't be surprised to learn it's all the same thing. Liquitex's gloss medium is "gloss medium & varnish", so I'd assume using it is like using matte medium. However, they also have a line that's just varnish, which I think is sturdier; it specifically says it's "non-removable".
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Jun 5, 2016 23:52
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The Liquitex gloss isn't that thick. The matte on the other hand is almost the consistency of sour cream and tends to gunk up my brush something fierce.
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Jun 5, 2016 23:56
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The blending fluid I use is Slow-Dri blending medium - never knew they made an all-in-one. I'll look around for just the varnish.
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Jun 5, 2016 23:56
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Chill la Chill posted:So I find out today that my GW 'ardcoat from 10 years ago has solidified into gelatinous cubes. They worked fine 6 months ago, oh well. Is there another company that makes similar gloss brush-on varnish but cheaper (lol)? If not, I don't mind buying GW again, assuming they still have the same quality as they did 10 years ago. The stuff lasts for ages - approximately 9.5 years at that. Vallejo do good brush-on varnishes, both gloss and matte.
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Jun 6, 2016 00:32
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If this isn't the right place to ask, I apologize. I have tired googling, but apparently haven't got the wording right to get an answer. How do you do the stringy spit effect from 'Aliens' on a model? I have seen it done on Tyrranids, but can't seem to find a tutorial on it.
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Jun 6, 2016 02:25
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People generally use UHU, a brand of glue: http://elementgames.co.uk/forums/how-to-paint-stringy-gore-t243.html
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Jun 6, 2016 02:28
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So I'm gonna actually write on a Leman Russ, which I'm excited about. I'm using an ultra fine-point sharpie, and I'm planning on going over it with a dullcoate laquer. How should I go about that?
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Jun 6, 2016 03:52
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First, give the mini plenty of time that the surface is actually dry - preferably a day, at least, since you last applied paint to the area. If the paint is even slightly moist it tends to gunk up your marker. Second, if you gently caress up the actual writing, remember that you can use something like a wet towel to clean it off and try again (after it's dried). Be careful to not touch the area with your fingers or it'll smudge. As for the dullcote, brush-on varnish/lacquer will probably smudge it, so I'd hit it with a spray coat - just like spray-lacquering any other mini. Once it sets the lacquer will protect the writing.
Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 11:43 on Jun 6, 2016 |
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Jun 6, 2016 05:59
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Shoot, I already bought the non-spray lacquer. Should I wait for it to dry, and THEN do it? Or am I hosed no matter what?
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Jun 6, 2016 15:33
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GoodBee posted:I want someone to start a "Miniature Sell/Trade Agreation Station" thread here on SA and link to it in this thread and all the OPs of other mini games threads. I want that thread to contain links to SA Mart threads for selling lots or allow us to post contact info for small swaps, or bits trades or something. Basically no discussion in the main thread, just info on how to arrange a trade. Let people bump once a month. SA had a Sale/Trade thread, but I don't think it got too much traffic. It's unfortunate, and I'd like to see it return as well, as long as people use it.
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Jun 6, 2016 16:21
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Finished the last of the Masons I have on hand for my Guild Ball team. Now I just need the stupid monkey (drat distributor issues) and I can actually play!  Faces are hard to do. While painting I feel like it contrasts too much but at a distance it looks better, so I guess I should be happy with tabletop distance as that is basically my goal. Group shot of the 8-man (sans Monkey) Team and Goal Token (Harmony not pictured and on the bench because she is crap, both as a mini and a player). Turned out a bit blurry. Need to figure out how to photograph groups better.  Still need to finish the blue around their bases, but I was interrupted last night.
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Jun 6, 2016 17:28
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Brewsuke posted:Shoot, I already bought the non-spray lacquer. Should I wait for it to dry, and THEN do it? Or am I hosed no matter what? Give it a day, it'll be fine Try it on a test piece of you're super worried
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Jun 6, 2016 20:15
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Brewsuke posted:Shoot, I already bought the non-spray lacquer. Should I wait for it to dry, and THEN do it? Or am I hosed no matter what? It probably dependds on the specific marker. Give it plenty of time to dry before you try the brush-on lacquer, and use a very wet brush with very little force.
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Jun 6, 2016 21:11
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I like painting pigs 
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Jun 6, 2016 21:14
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Jun 6, 2016 21:17
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I like painting pigs I like you painting pigs too.
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Jun 6, 2016 21:38
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I like painting pigs Wanna pet that pig.
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Jun 6, 2016 21:45
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I like painting pigs drat. This is good on so many levels. Top notch dude. I really like the green arm.
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Jun 6, 2016 21:52
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That pig model made me realize, since I've been painting regularly again and with similar colors, that I color coordinate paint jobs much better by not trying to plan it all out beforehand. I find that I end up freezing and not painting if I try to figure out what colors should be where, but if I just paint I'll figure it out as I go along as elements need to stand out or blend in with other colors. Do you find that true for your painting, or do you plan it beforehand? Like the arm, I would figure it should stand out (assuming I started with a red body) and go with blue or green depending on if I used that color for a major part yet.
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Jun 6, 2016 21:57
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I like painting pigs That's a good looking angry pig. I feel like the green gauntlet is screaming for some freehand on it or something but it's a great paintjob all around.
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Jun 6, 2016 22:07
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Depends. Usually I like to plan things out. I make color swatches on my desk. Like I literally just paint blocks of color on my desk. This guy was less planned since I wasn't sure where I was going with the skin. I have actual color swatches on pieces of heavy paper for all my paints, so for this guy after the skin and metals were done I was holding up the model in front of the swatches. RGB is generally something I'd like to avoid, but since it's an odd red shade pulling in browns, purples, oranges, and yellows I was pretty limited. To make up for that I desaturated the green and blue. Thanks everbody for the compliments.
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Jun 6, 2016 22:12
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More WIP on this plague monster. I'm not really sure how to make it any more interesting. Maybe some brighter reds in some deep crevices? Right now the bone color gets the point across but I'm not sure about the sinew.
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Jun 7, 2016 07:06
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signalnoise posted:More WIP on this plague monster. I'm not really sure how to make it any more interesting. Maybe some brighter reds in some deep crevices? Right now the bone color gets the point across but I'm not sure about the sinew. My first thought is to make some of the muscles stand out with a different colour of red. And/or highlight once or twice more, just lighten up your lightest pink with some bleached bone or white and hit a few of the highest peaks. You could also darken some of the crevasses with a dark wash.
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Jun 7, 2016 08:08
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I think it'll pop a lot more after you get him on a neutral or subdued base.
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Jun 7, 2016 13:29
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I just came across these: http://www.migjimenez.com/en/content/10-ammo-step-by-step They refer specifically to using mig products but I'm still finding them useful or interesting to flip through. I've been thinking about buying the pdf versions of the weathering magazines he produces with some other painters.
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Jun 7, 2016 14:21
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Lethemonster posted:I just came across these: They're pretty awesome magazines. Really inspirational photos and nice tutorials. Just be aware that it's military vehicles for the most part, so you'll get a lot of rust and weathering info.
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Jun 7, 2016 14:52
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The magazines are really helpful, and mostly concentrate on the one type of weathering that is the theme of each issue, whether it's dust, rust, grease, water, etc., but by no means are the model builds in each issue limited to just the theme of each issue. The PDFs are about 1/3 to 1/2 the length of a single model build that's featured in the Weathering Magazine, and there are 4-6 model builds in each issue of Weathering Magazine, with I think 4 issues per year. They're about 8 euro each, roughly, so about 10 GBP each with postage or if you get them from a model shop online. I have a subscription, I like them a lot. There's also an aircraft-specific weathering magazine. If you're in the UK or around scale model shops regularly there's also Tamiya Model Magazine, which I get, that covers a lot of bases from race cars to tanks and planes, but the same publisher puts out Military Model Magazine which is all tanks, and I think they do a military aircraft magazine as well.
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Jun 7, 2016 15:06
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Did some work on my oath last night, and managed to get my Summoner complete for my frostgrave warband. I'm really pleased with how the stone turned out, and fairly happy with the model itself.     The wash was still drying on the green side of the cthulu rock, which is why it's glossy. it's since dulled.
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Jun 7, 2016 15:51
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Oath is coming along nicely. Since it's a one-off model, I wanted to have a crack at some blending as well as the usual edge highlights. Happy with the progress so far!
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Jun 7, 2016 18:33
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Recently I got to paint the KS exclusive version of the Hannah model from Malifaux.  
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Jun 8, 2016 01:34
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Mango Polo posted:Fishing weights. Fishing weights to weigh down the base? I never thought of that, that makes sense. I bought some today... darnon posted:Privateer Press also sells pewter bases. ...and promptly dropped the finished miniature while I was popping it off my double-sided paintpot stand and allowed it to hit the floor, which caused the plastic base to shatter, while also chipping the flag and making it come lose from it's pin. Looks like I'll be trying pewter bases after all.  The flag was the only thing that got damaged in the fall aside from the base, and it looks like it will be easy to fix, so it could have been worse at least. imperialparadox fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 03:25
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Does anyone have experience with ultrasonic cleaners? I was thinking of picking one up to help strip models and as a way to unfuck an airbrush if it comes to that (hopefully it won't).
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Jun 8, 2016 04:26
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KPC_Mammon posted:Does anyone have experience with ultrasonic cleaners? I was thinking of picking one up to help strip models and as a way to unfuck an airbrush if it comes to that (hopefully it won't). I grabbed a mid tier one at a yard sale. They are ok, but I could live without it.
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Jun 8, 2016 04:30
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KPC_Mammon posted:Does anyone have experience with ultrasonic cleaners? I was thinking of picking one up to help strip models and as a way to unfuck an airbrush if it comes to that (hopefully it won't). Indolent Bastard posted:They are ok, but I could live without it. Same thoughts here. When I get a really bad clog with an airbrush I just soak the parts in cellulose thinner and use a stiff boar brush and an old needle to get at the clog. Since the clog is usually in the nozzle, I have a very small glass jar I use to drop that into, and if the paint cup needs attention I have a Doritos salsa jar for soaking larger bits. Cellulose thinner is the 'gently caress you, paint' option of cleaning, it strips everything away.
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Jun 8, 2016 09:24
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Started painting Infinity: Operation Icestorm. An excuse to try out & practice wet blending, interested in c&c. more angles in album here: http://imgur.com/a/GuV9B  
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Jun 8, 2016 09:28
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Fast_Food_Knight posted:Started painting Infinity: Operation Icestorm. An excuse to try out & practice wet blending, interested in c&c. Aren't they chilly?
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Jun 8, 2016 09:32
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