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I always strip minis before repainting them, but you don't have to strip down to bare plastic (or resin/pewter, as the case may be). Even if you just get the model mostly stripped, it's probably good enough to take a fresh coat of primer and some paints. I just use Simple Green, since it's less caustic and I know it won't gently caress up the material. Aside from hot water, I don't trust anything that temporarily softens the material, and even with hot water, I tend to be cautious. I'd rather not risk harming the structural integrity of the material. About the only exception is if I'm specifically trying to strip superglue from pewter, and then I use acetone. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Jun 10, 2016 |
# ? Jun 10, 2016 20:25 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 08:36 |
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SRM those ultramarine mans are very cool and good.
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# ? Jun 10, 2016 20:29 |
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http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/310-miniature-leaf-punch-punches.html This is game-changing.
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# ? Jun 11, 2016 16:35 |
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Slimnoid posted:http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/310-miniature-leaf-punch-punches.html You need to try out their texture rollers. Those are equally game changing for doing bases. You've got everything from Infinity-style hexes to wooden planks to crazy Chaos runes.
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# ? Jun 11, 2016 17:57 |
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I have their first leaf punch, it is truly awesome to use with real leaves. I picked up one of their texture rollers as well, but they've got version 2 of the leaf punch out now, so I'll have to get one of those and another roller or two. ...and I have bags of birch seed pods I haven't even opened yet. I am a model hoarder.
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# ? Jun 11, 2016 18:23 |
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I finally made a wet palette after procrastinating for a year. Turns out I'm an idiot and should have made one long ago. It's just so drat nice to work with.
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# ? Jun 11, 2016 21:10 |
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Any good tutorials for that? Thanks to a still limited selection of colors I own I've been doing a decent amount of mixing and I bet one wiuld be handy.
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# ? Jun 11, 2016 21:29 |
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I've never been able to get a wet palette to work. My paints just go all runny. I don't understand
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# ? Jun 11, 2016 21:33 |
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Does ayone know what the link is for subscribers to access the miniature mentor page where you input your session code to download the videos? Im away from home and didnt note it down anywhere. I figured it would be a link on their site or on any of the emails you get when you download their vdeos but apparently not. The only time Ive seen it is the screen right after the paypal payment has been made.
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# ? Jun 11, 2016 22:58 |
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Slimnoid posted:http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/310-miniature-leaf-punch-punches.html I have one of these, only it was four dollars. They are mini sized paper punches for scrapbooking.
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# ? Jun 11, 2016 22:59 |
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I'll definitely keep those in mind if I ever do an autumnal forest theme. This time I went the opposite route and I'm doing a tropical rainforest using etched brass foliage.
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# ? Jun 11, 2016 23:05 |
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I have one of these, only it was four dollars. They are mini sized paper punches for scrapbooking. Can you list the name of the brand/provide a link? At $13 it isn't a bad price, but not if I can get the same thing for $4.
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# ? Jun 11, 2016 23:37 |
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Slimnoid posted:Can you list the name of the brand/provide a link? At $13 it isn't a bad price, but not if I can get the same thing for $4. I haven't seen one in a shop but check out a local hobby supply shop that has a scrapbooking section. If they have one, you won't have to pay shipping and can probably find a coupon. The scrapbooking section is where I got a 1" round hole punch to turn old MTG Commons into D&D tokens.
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# ? Jun 11, 2016 23:43 |
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Found this one on Michael's website. http://www.michaels.com/M10358853.html#q=Leaf+punch&start=1
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 00:12 |
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That seems a tad large
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 00:52 |
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GoodBee posted:I haven't seen one in a shop but check out a local hobby supply shop that has a scrapbooking section. If they have one, you won't have to pay shipping and can probably find a coupon. Holy poo poo that's a great idea.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 01:27 |
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Holy poo poo that's a great idea. My Google-fu is leading me to believe greenstuffworld might have custom ordered their punches because I'm not finding anything in a good size. If you're talking about using the 1" circle punches on MTG cards, then yes, it works great.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 01:35 |
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Yeah the dnd tokens. Totally in on that. The scrapbooking section is a good place to check out when you go to the hobby store. They get a lot of sweet toys.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 01:37 |
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Yeah the dnd tokens. Totally in on that. I'm pretty sure magnetic tape isn't for what I want to do, but it seems like an awesome thing.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 01:45 |
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Today I monkeyed around:SRM posted:I painted up a Guildball team real quick for a friend of mine. Whole team took 2-3 days. I like the planking bases, where'd you get them/how'd you make them?
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 03:11 |
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Slimnoid posted:Can you list the name of the brand/provide a link? At $13 it isn't a bad price, but not if I can get the same thing for $4. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-LEAF-Shape-Paper-Punches-Many-Styles-2-Choose-From-Quilling-Scrapbook-Card-/380362972185 http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Styles-Handmade-Scrapbook-DIY-Paper-Cut-Card-Craft-Printing-Shaper-Punch-Mini-/262447328172 Are just some random samples. If you just google Mini Paper Punch you'll get a lot more as well.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 04:14 |
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I found those but I think they are bigger. I think those are 1/4 inch and the one linked above look smaller. I could be wrong.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 04:43 |
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Slimnoid posted:http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/310-miniature-leaf-punch-punches.html How many leaves do you need, that you don't just buy their scatter leaves? http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/model-leaves/277-leaf-scatter-litter-natural-leaves.html 5.25 pounds rather than 12. You'd need gigantic needs for leaves to actually have the punch make sense.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 05:28 |
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Being able to choose the material has pretty substantial advantages. I think the punch would work best with aluminum foil, since it's more durable and you don't need to worry about discoloration in a year or two.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 07:39 |
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Galaga Galaxian posted:I like the planking bases, where'd you get them/how'd you make them?
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 13:15 |
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A friend gave me a relic knights model that looks like Overwatch's D.Va. http://sodapopminiatures.com/relic-knights/cerci-speed-circuit/princess-malya Now to just find a model that looks like MEI. I don't know what I'll ever use the models for - probably stand-ins for some infinity models? IDK why I'd want to find and paint up a bunch of Overwatch inspired models only to have them finished way after anyone still cares about Overwatch lol.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 13:43 |
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Chill la Chill posted:A friend gave me a relic knights model that looks like Overwatch's D.Va. http://www.beastsofwar.com/featured/overwatch-tabletop/ I haven't played overwatch so I've got no idea how good the article is, just remember seeing it.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 14:21 |
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MrFlibble posted:http://www.beastsofwar.com/featured/overwatch-tabletop/ thanks!
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 16:06 |
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Is there a go-to method for protecting minis that you expect to be knocked around a lot? I want to paint some board game miniatures but I don't have room in the box for foam and gently caress getting battlefoam or whatever. Like is there a sealer that's stronger than the rest?
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 18:53 |
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signalnoise posted:Is there a go-to method for protecting minis that you expect to be knocked around a lot? I want to paint some board game miniatures but I don't have room in the box for foam and gently caress getting battlefoam or whatever. Like is there a sealer that's stronger than the rest? Most boardgame plastics are so soft and light that they cant hurt each other's paintjob at all. I had the figures in my Battlelore 2. edition stuffed into bags and nothing happened at all. I'm a little more careful with the harder stuff from CMoN and such, but the figures aren't the real problem, the giant stack of cards and cardboard that smashes around the box is. Just make sure that can't happen and you'll be fine. That said, I'm going for individual boxes line with foam washcloths for each clan with my Blood Rage. I'm a terrible hypocrite.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 19:12 |
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Two coats of Pledge Future floor polish and Krylon flat clear works for me. Testor's Dullcote is also popular for a rattlecan clear matte, but it's a little pricey for a dinky can. Future will turn milky if you layer it aggressively, but I've always had it eventually clear fully dried. Also can tend to re-activate the Army Painter washes I use a little.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 19:26 |
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signalnoise posted:Is there a go-to method for protecting minis that you expect to be knocked around a lot? I want to paint some board game miniatures but I don't have room in the box for foam and gently caress getting battlefoam or whatever. Like is there a sealer that's stronger than the rest? A cheap storage unit for a small number of minis is a "plastic bead box". I've used these with paper towels or cut up foam from blister packs to carry around metal minis. They're also good for tokens and cards and you might even find one that fits in the game box. It's probably not necessary for board game plastics though.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 19:32 |
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GW released a video showing off their new gem paints - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUBtItceuec The effect actually looks pretty good. Anyone any idea whether it's a unique formula or if they've just re-branded something else and jacked up the price (like many of their other hobby tools)? I'm tempted to pick some up and repaint a bunch of gems I'm not happy with.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 21:24 |
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I honestly can't think of anything exactly like it, they're almost like clear paints but they're gloopier, like their Blood effect paint. They make gems a million times easier to do. I've been experimenting around with them recently, tried painting some Spirit Hosts and a Alpha Legionaire using the paints thinned down with medium, I'll post some results when they're done.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 21:42 |
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They look the same as the Tamiya clear line.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 22:03 |
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Is there a modelling thread? Pinning clinic over here. There's 8 in Mr cartwheel, only should have been six, but I snapped the ball joint off the torso like an rear end trying to adjust his angle. Two between the hand and the base, two to straighten each arm, and two between the ball joint and the torso. Just one in each knee for Cam Kneely.
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# ? Jun 12, 2016 23:11 |
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Crosspost from the Oath Thread. Not entirely happy with him. The armor was a pain (moreso than some of the other masons) and I'm not sure I made the different layers of shading on his skin distinct enough, especially on his head. I'm also unaccustomed to painting bald heads.
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# ? Jun 13, 2016 01:14 |
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I got a reaper metal figure. I've never painted the metal figures before, anything I should know/do differently from the plastic figures, or do they just paint exactly the same?
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# ? Jun 13, 2016 03:09 |
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Has anyone here worked on dioramas before? I feel like this is a better thread to ask than the DIY scale model thread since that one deals with more static models. I'm looking for resources on how to make a diorama or two that is to be used for tournaments. Specifically, X-wing tournaments. Ideally I'd like to fit bases with pegs built into the board so I can make the models interchangeable. I'll hide the bases as part of the diorama. I imagine it would be better to leave cutouts for interchangeable bases as that would be easier, but then it would require me to have multiple painted bases as part of the scheme (there are a couple diameters of x-wing pegs available, the manufacturing process has been inconsistent throughout waves). I'd like to have some 2-3 walls as part of the diorama to make it look like a hangar bay. What are the best materials to use for such a purpose? I honestly don't know what to look for, thanks for any help.
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# ? Jun 13, 2016 05:37 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 08:36 |
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Foolster41 posted:I got a reaper metal figure. I've never painted the metal figures before, anything I should know/do differently from the plastic figures, or do they just paint exactly the same? Once you've primed it is the same. I feel like priming is more important but I am not sure if that is real or confirmation bias. The biggest difference is in assembly
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# ? Jun 13, 2016 05:45 |