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Also how loving weird is it when the 72 Beetle with a front main seal leak is the reliable rescue backup?!
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Jun 14, 2016 10:07
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Geirskogul posted:Well, after cleaning the IAC valve and lubing it up, it is an issue. But even after doing that (which allowed the truck to idle) it still had no power, and was dumping fuel. I cleared the codes with the battery, and gave it some time to start up again. Pinged the Check Engine light (with flashes for the first bit, code in progress) when I tried to give it throttle. poo poo dude... that sucks. My dad went through exactly the same thing on their 02 but got as far as pulling the engine and partially disassembling it then leaving it out in the rain before throwing in the towel and selling it to a junkyard. You've got way more skill as a mechanic than he does, though. It's a really loving stupid design and the worst part is they did it to save head casting SKUs as far as I know, since it allows the same head (or one machined from the same casting at least) to be rotated 180 and installed on the other side. E: as far as foresters, don't they all blow HGs? Mine was on its third or fourth set of HGs from the PPO when Ozmiander bought it needing them done again (they kept doing a bad job is my guess.) Also, LOL rod bearings.
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Jun 14, 2016 12:51
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All the single-slammer Foresters up to a certain age also have the same faulty head gaskets, but at least with an SOHC the leak is external rather than internal so you'll just top up coolant once every few months like I do while I wait for divine motivation to pull the engine and replace them (along with Delta torque grind cams and a head decking). A lot of them get bad raps because some dipshit back-country mechanic just farts a new parts-store head gasket onto it without even cleaning the mating surface. Get the Forester.
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Jun 14, 2016 16:00
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I can't recall if my outback was DOHC or SOHC, but I did head gaskets the hard way by unbolting the transmission mount and jacking the engine up and swinging it side to side. I do remember having to remove the cams, so probably DOHC. The cam carriers got in the way of the head bolts. It's failure mode was combustion gases into the coolant, which made the coolant disappear in short order. Didn't touch the oil. What were the year ranges? 97-2005, right? I'm okay with older, too. It's just convenient to have a truck/SUV, and I can't think of anything else that's pretty cheap and otherwise uncomplicated. Every, and I mean EVERY, 97-2004 explorer I see for less than $1500 has a grenaded transmission.
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Jun 14, 2016 19:09
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Yeah, if you had a '97 Outback it was almost certainly an EJ25D. 98 Foresters (first year) are DOHC, 99+ SOHC.
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Jun 14, 2016 20:10
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Geirskogul posted:Every, and I mean EVERY, 97-2004 explorer I see for less than $1500 has a grenaded transmission. Well, if you've got one with a (slowly becoming) busted motor...
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Jun 15, 2016 10:19
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Trust me , the motor's already dickered. Unfortunately we've been fighting the dreaded "O/D On/Off" light flashing for nigh on five years now. The truck was nearly undriveable two or three years ago and I slapped in a "new" ebay valve body and solenoids in there, and that abated total disaster, but every now and again it flashes and makes very hard 2->1 shifts.
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Jun 15, 2016 10:36
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General maintenance time! VW shops sell aftermarket bearing/rollers for between $35-120 for the sliding door. My roller shattered one day, but I'm also poor. So, I took some measurements, and headed to McMaster's website. $15 with shipping ($5 each x2, plus shipping) and I have stainless rollers designed for rope pulleys, 450lb load rating. Good enough.   (the hair stuck to my fingers is from Type 3 Prime Seal sealant) Busted roller:  Looks like a good enough fit:  The bearing is a press fit / retainer nut assembly, so first step is to pry off the old broken bearing  After cleanup, I put the new bearing in the toaster oven (  ) and the roller assembly in the freezer.  Let it be known that this DID NOT WORK, and I just ended up hammering on the bearing using a socket as a spacer. No further photos of the door, but it's good enough for me and it works. Right now I'm dealing with setting up a fuel pressure regulator and maybe 3D printing a mount for the fuel cutoff solenoid. I've had the fuel pump (a Carter 5psi pump with integrated filter) and shutoff solenoid dangling by zip ties since I picked up the bus. I also haven't had a fuel pressure regulator at all, instead relying on the max pump pressure to not blow out the carb needle valve. Thought I should finally fix that up.  Also, the cheap air filter I picked up off of Amazon (cotton/paper fiber) is literally disintegrating due to the presence of the blowby oil vapors. It's full of holes, and not actually filtering. So, I picked up a K&N to put in its place. 
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Jun 19, 2016 02:09
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Welp, got offered $250 for a scrapper to pick up the explorer. I've asked them if that price is with me keeping the passenger seat, because I want it for the bus  Besides the stock radio, is there anything that I should keep from it? I can't really think of any high-dollar items in a 98 Explorer.
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Jun 19, 2016 22:42
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This print lifted a bit, but will be fine Also, yesterday I took  my finacee out to try to teach her stick. With the Explorer out of commission, she only has the motorcycle, and sometimes you need to get groceries. (really need to re-wax) It went worse than expected. But she did get it into 3rd gear a few times. She's still too afraid to drive it on the main roads, and panicked a few times when a car was behind us in the residential areas. I have a new clutch and pressure plate sitting in a box, waiting to be installed on the Beetle. Also the front main seal by the clutch has started to leak a little faster, so I need to replace that. Right now is the perfect time for somebody to learn driving stick on it. Anybody in the Phoenix area have a sibling/nephew they want to teach, with practically zero risk to your own car? Send 'em over.
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Jun 19, 2016 22:50
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Geirskogul posted:Welp, got offered $250 for a scrapper to pick up the explorer. I've asked them if that price is with me keeping the passenger seat, because I want it for the bus dont know if you still have it. BUt if the center arm rest/console part works and is in decent shape take it out. those things are rare as hens teeth and go bad all the time. I have had customers come to my shop with a smashed window and they take the radio and center console.
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Jun 20, 2016 00:09
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Which parts exactly? The center bit that has the cupholder, vents, volume buttons, and ashtray in the rear that also has the flip-up driver's armrest/cubby; the forward bit with the front center cupholders and two small felted cubbies (goes down from under the radio), or the radio trim? The first part with the armrest/cubby works mostly okay, but has some sun damage.
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Jun 20, 2016 00:12
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The rear axle is good for jeeps, if you know anyone who has one. They're also ~$150 in most junkyards, so I don't know that it's worth messing with, plus I think they'd complain if it only had front wheels still attached.
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Jun 20, 2016 03:07
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Good to know. Also, I hate it when the day ends in disappointment. While trying to install my first prototype, I realized I needed some extra space under the bolts that attach it to the ceiling of the engine compartment. So, I made another:   (The divots give it strength in the 3D printing world, and when you print it face-down, it helps to break up long sections with ABS. ABS shrinks 1-3% when cooling and long straight sections tend to peel up, like the first picture I did earlier) This is how I designed the fuel shutoff solenoid and the fuel pressure regulator to mount:   Unfortunately, this Holley regulator is a piece of poo poo. First, the holes to mount the mounting bracket aren't tapped. They actually instruct you to tap the holes yourself! Piece of garbage. After that, the second time I powered up the fuel pump to test it, the housing cracked, but not anywhere near those big NPT fittings, but instead in the center somewhere. So, as I was getting ready to drive the bus on a test, it sprayed fuel all over the engine very quickly. Piece of loving garbage. At least right now I have the fuel pump re-mounted to prevent vapor lock and depriming before the fuel pump, and I have the fuel lines and pump/solenoid secured with something other than zip ties. Now to find out if Amazon can take returns of things dealing with gasoline.
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Jun 20, 2016 05:37
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Geirskogul posted:Welp, got offered $250 for a scrapper to pick up the explorer. I've asked them if that price is with me keeping the passenger seat, because I want it for the bus Definitely the center console. Ford couldn't make an arm rest for poo poo, if the arm rest and console lid are in decent shape you can easily sell it. Can't see a reason to keep the stock radio though.
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Jun 20, 2016 07:07
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Only keeping the stock radio because it has rear AUX inputs and at work we just got a dedicated 2006 Ford E350-style ambulance with a busted-rear end double-DIN radio.
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Jun 20, 2016 07:20
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Got a quote of $300 from a place that doesn't care about the console or passenger seat (I told them it was an old mail truck, explaining the missing stuff). Sounds good to me. 
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Jun 20, 2016 23:00
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The only things I know of that are worth money are the engine (because they all loving blow up like yours did), transmission (because they all loving blow up like yours did), and rear axle (because jeep people love them like Krakkles said.) Can't think of anything else, maybe body panels if they are in good shape? ECU because backyard mechanics always seem to blame it first?
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Jun 20, 2016 23:07
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Yeah, they're just so...ubiquitous (?) that parts don't go for a lot. They're not as plentiful as Civics of the same era, but not as rare as things like the Bronco before it, so they sit in that low-value dip between "rare enough" and "plentiful enough" to be valuable.
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Jun 20, 2016 23:11
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I think the 8.8s are reasonably valuable to anyone looking for a stronger rear-end, not just Jeep guys. I think they're a good bit lighter (and definitely cheaper) than a Ford 9" but they're way stronger than a Dana 35 or a GM 10-bolt.
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Jun 20, 2016 23:15
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Yeah, definitely has an 8.8, according to RCR's video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uemr8hJYfr0 If I had a garage to store it in and part it out before calling the wrecker to take it away for $75, I'd definitely tear it down. As it is, the pickup is scheduled for the 29th, so the game until then is moving it every few days to prevent the dreaded orange sticker.
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Jun 20, 2016 23:25
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If you can get a lovely blown up axle that still rolls and ratchet strap it to the leafs it might be worth it, but I don't know how much you value your time. It's a SUA suspension which makes it somewhat more miserable to get the axle out from under the car since you have to unbolt at least one end of each leaf.
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Jun 20, 2016 23:39
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Geirskogul posted:(The divots give it strength in the 3D printing world, and when you print it face-down, it helps to break up long sections with ABS. ABS shrinks 1-3% when cooling and long straight sections tend to peel up, like the first picture I did earlier) Is there a difference in shrinkage between the divot pattern/style and a using raft on the entire face-down side? Same results with different methods? I had a custom phone + accessory case printed in ABS recently that the guy said he used a raft across the whole thing to prevent it lifting or moving; that part shrank only 0.25mm over 72mm and 0.5mm over 140mm (~0.4% shrinkage). This was basically a 72mm x 170mm box with open top, 3mm wall thickness all around.
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Jun 22, 2016 01:35
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There's less material at the ground plane, so there's less shrinkage. But also there are more perimeter shells, which usually has good adhesion. As the layers progress, shrinkage has already begun, so the layers are printed on already-shrunk layers, so there's no lever effect from shrinking higher up.
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Jun 22, 2016 02:26
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So you're printing just perimeter shells for the first layer(s?) and then gradually closing the divots with whatever overhang/angle allowable. What wall thickness or number of shells are you using on the very first layer? I have been using 3mm wall thickness on most parts which means 6 shells plus 1.8mm of infill with 200micron & 3 shell settings (per the guy on 3DHubs I print through). (Let me know if you want me to take this to PM's or if this is all discussed in great detail somewhere else; I'm having trouble finding anything relevant via Google.)
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Jun 22, 2016 03:23
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No, it's okay here. And I don't mess with infill settings or anything special, no. When I print in that inverted pyramid shape, the first layer is either a series of islands, or a grid. I usually offset the divots for most designs, too, so there's no straight line longer than a few centimeters, but not always. So, imagine you printed just the first 10 or 20 layers, then stopped the print. If you then took that sheet and sliced it into a random strip (took a random cross section), you'd end up with a bunch of small pieces (unless you got it right on the gridline, but I digress). This means that there are no pulling forces from shrinkage in most of the axis, minimizing peeling and failed prints. Especially on the first few layers. The pulling force is like a big spring, but I'm essentially cutting up that big spring into a bunch of shorter ones that, when added together, are shorter than the long spring would be. Slicers also nearly universally print the outer shell at a slower speed, giving a lot more "squish" and adhesion time to the PEI bed due to the ABS being hotter, for longer, than if it were all internal mid-face material. This also reduces peel, because the ABS is much more firmly adhered at all of those perimeter shells touching the bed. Now, this drastically slows down the first few layers, but that's why I only do it for 2-4mm. And, of course, when finish doesn't matter. It also gives strength to parts that are thin with not enough layers to really get a good hex infill going, especially if I offset the pyramids so they're arranged like diamondplate.
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Jun 22, 2016 04:21
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It uses more filament due to the higher length of total shell distance, but only for a bit. Less than I'd waste on a big, failed print. I generally do 3 solid bottom, 5 solid top, and 2-4 outer shells depending on design and intended use. I wanted some flexibility with this, so only 2 shells at a manual .48mm extrusion thickness, .40 nozzle.
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Jun 22, 2016 04:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:It does to a limited extent because your sweat actually evaporates eventually, but... yeah it's loving hot. Made sure to hammer out my yard work so it was all done by 10AM. Yeah, up until you stop sweating and start heatstroking and don't notice because you're evaporating it so fast anyway.
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Jun 22, 2016 11:31
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Replacement fuel regulator in: Seems to work so far. On to some minor things. First, the ground for the main engine battery is just a bolt going through a hole in the fan shroud:  Pretty lovely, and a dozen times or so I've gotten a "click" when turning the key and have had to go back to wiggle the ground point. Not cool, but I've just been too lazy to fix it. So, I pulled out Ye Olde Harbor Freight metric tap set.  Found another unused hole in the shroud that was the perfect size   And fixed the battery ground (pictured not tightened, test-fitting)  For shits and giggles (and because I had the tap set out already), I also scrounged up a braided ground cable from the Box O' Stuff, and threw on an engine <-> frame ground, as well.  Then I started cleaning out the bus, because I am a terrible person with filthy cars. First up on the block was a fairly recent ebay purchase, a "rebuilt" 1700 Type 4 head. It was one of those auctions where I bid the minimum ($35 plus calculated shipping) and forgot about it until two weeks later when ebay started nagging me to pay the guy, because I had won.       I say "rebuilt" because it looks like they did a valve replacement and maybe lapping, but nothing else. At least, it looks like they hot tanked the aluminum head, which would explain that weird finish. Also, there's no "lip" left in the head area for the cylinder to seal to. Seller had potato quality pictures so it was a gamble. Super bad and a drunken waste of $80. Lesson learned. Then, in preparation for putting in the recovered Explorer seat, I took out the bench seat, and just plain threw it away. I had done repairs to the vinyl using vinyl repair and black RTV, but if you even put your elbows on the seat it tore a new hole. Also, the springs were rusty and missing hog clips in a lot of places, and the floor attachment method was jury-rigged by the PO before I ever got a hold of the bus. Also the frames of the seats were broken in three places and repaired with hose clamps, so no big loss. With the bench out of the way, I made the bed  And gathered up all of the tools that were scattered around the bus, and put them in one spot.  I found all of my screwdrivers 
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Jun 26, 2016 23:43
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 Excellent movie, holy poo poo. Why have I not seen this before.
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Jun 27, 2016 05:41
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The car junkers people didn't show up today, so I posted this ad: quote:WOULD THIS CAR B GUD FOR DRIVING TO SCHOL? quote:Hi, I'm an impoverished minority mother, and I was wondering if you'd be willing to donate... It's been 29 goddamned minutes.
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Jun 29, 2016 21:24
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Give it an hour, someone will offer you a dog.
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Jun 29, 2016 21:31
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First phone call, but he started by saying he can't figure out texts, and he sounded like an old dude. Still, though.
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Jun 29, 2016 21:37
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how's the kitty doing?
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Jun 30, 2016 00:14
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Destroying everything https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sk88Xlix91k https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_GapyMIXZ0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHxsfSAemgY Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Jun 30, 2016 |
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Jun 30, 2016 00:23
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loving CRAIGSLIST
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Jul 2, 2016 05:31
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This sounds like the exact poo poo I went through trying to unload my barely-passed-emissions Volvo, or my sister's slipping transmission Saturn. Below $500 people get loving stupid in new and amazingly (painful) ways.
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Jul 2, 2016 06:49
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Jul 2, 2016 07:08
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Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Jul 2, 2016 |
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Jul 2, 2016 07:12
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| # ? May 14, 2024 00:17 |
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In retrospect, selling it to a junkyard might have been the better choice.
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Jul 2, 2016 08:04
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