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Paint on metal minis tends to chip more easily, but that's the only real difference, and good primer helps.
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Jun 13, 2016 05:51
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Chill la Chill posted:Has anyone here worked on dioramas before? I feel like this is a better thread to ask than the DIY scale model thread since that one deals with more static models. I'm looking for resources on how to make a diorama or two that is to be used for tournaments. Specifically, X-wing tournaments. Ideally I'd like to fit bases with pegs built into the board so I can make the models interchangeable. I'll hide the bases as part of the diorama. I imagine it would be better to leave cutouts for interchangeable bases as that would be easier, but then it would require me to have multiple painted bases as part of the scheme (there are a couple diameters of x-wing pegs available, the manufacturing process has been inconsistent throughout waves). I'd like to have some 2-3 walls as part of the diorama to make it look like a hangar bay. What are the best materials to use for such a purpose? I honestly don't know what to look for, thanks for any help. Google "X-Wing tournament tray". A couple places make mdf board trays for x-wing that you could easily customize or get ideas to build your own out of mdf board or acrylic.
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Jun 13, 2016 06:17
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GoodBee posted:Google "X-Wing tournament tray". A couple places make mdf board trays for x-wing that you could easily customize or get ideas to build your own out of mdf board or acrylic. I already have a customized wooden tournament tray that I won from a tournament. I'm thinking of one of those fancy dioramas that people use for warhammer tournaments, but adding another wall or two to really sell it as a hangar. Though I guess the easy solution would just be to buy a plain wooden tray and start putting stuff on it. In any case, MDF board is what I'm looking for, thanks. I could use that and pink foam.
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Jun 13, 2016 06:26
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Chill la Chill posted:I already have a customized wooden tournament tray that I won from a tournament. I'm thinking of one of those fancy dioramas that people use for warhammer tournaments, but adding another wall or two to really sell it as a hangar. Though I guess the easy solution would just be to buy a plain wooden tray and start putting stuff on it. In any case, MDF board is what I'm looking for, thanks. I could use that and pink foam. I just think of those as fancy tournament trays. The really awesome ones I've seen are pretty much made only for the one set of figures. I tried sketching out a board for WarMachine once. It was going to be pretty simple, just cobblestone on the board and bases with a large board sized design. Then I changed my list and my sketch didn't work anymore.
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Jun 13, 2016 06:54
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Been working on this guy. Still haven't decided what to paint the hatch. The white horizontal highlight on the glass support looks too strong so I'll dial it back. I looked at reference photos for NMM for rings and I probably should've gone with a simple yellow with some white highlights.  But, I feel like I should challenge myself when I can. Idk how any of that cockpit gold should look so I've just been trying what looks good. Should I just paint all the metal parts of the glass as if it was one giant shield instead of trying to make light sources for each portion? I don't know how the funny brown splotch to the right of the cockpit got there lol. Unfortunately, the clamps to the sides of the glass looks too indistinct if it's all brown so I'll prob have to make them gold as well.   
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Jun 13, 2016 14:33
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Galaga Galaxian posted:Today I monkeyed around:
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Jun 13, 2016 15:25
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GoodBee posted:I just think of those as fancy tournament trays. The really awesome ones I've seen are pretty much made only for the one set of figures. Well the plan was to make it as generic as possible. A hangar "adventure set", like those little dioramas that came with 3-5 Star Wars figures. I figure that as long as I kept any nearby people figures low and I make the space wide enough, I could use whatever ships I wanted.
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Jun 13, 2016 15:31
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Chill la Chill posted:Well the plan was to make it as generic as possible. A hangar "adventure set", like those little dioramas that came with 3-5 Star Wars figures. I figure that as long as I kept any nearby people figures low and I make the space wide enough, I could use whatever ships I wanted. I'm a little fuzzy on exactly what bases go with each space ship game so I may be way off base with this. A lot of flying stands I've seen for space games are clear and I'm picturing a flat mdf board painted like a hangar with a piece of clear acrylic over it with the slots to hold clear flying bases. You could even switch out the clear acrylic with different cut outs if you've got wildly different base types.
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Jun 13, 2016 15:53
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Right. For X wing, there are only 2 base types and barring some of the more recent OMFGhuge models, they are around the same size for the large bases and smaller than a millennium falcon. Using an acrylic block for different lists sounds pretty good but I was hoping to put little accessories like fueling stations, droids, and workers on it. I think I can make cutouts for large bases with small, raised inserts for smaller bases (X wing bases are all raised so you can fit small washers under them) so you can put either 1 large or a couple small on each space. What would be the best way to install a back and/or side wall on such a thing? I can probably find and print out matte paintings from the movies for this purpose.
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Jun 13, 2016 16:10
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Chill la Chill posted:What would be the best way to install a back and/or side wall on such a thing? I'm guessing you would want to be able to collapse it for transport. Maybe slot the base and have the walls slide in? quote:I can probably find and print out matte paintings from the movies for this purpose. That sounds like an amazing idea.
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Jun 13, 2016 16:23
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Pigs for the pig god. I was gonna do some fancy bubble texturing on the tank before I decided that would take a long time and be completely insane.
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Jun 13, 2016 19:31
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This is amazing and I hate having to follow it. I love how sharp your metals look. Crosspostin' from the Oath Thread. Progress shot on my Reaper Storm Giant (to be used as a Frost Giant in Frostgrave). i've completed the base coat on everything except the sword. At this point, the skin is the only thing that's complete. Up next i'll probably complete another go at the NMM Gold technique by finishing up the armor. That'll include completing another pass over all the leather bits (and touching up the end points where the green wash went over.)    [/quote] Any tips past this point? I'm going to drybrush white in his hair, and was thinking of doing gold on the bits of his skirt. I'll also be touching up his nails with an off white color.
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Jun 13, 2016 20:51
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I'd consider making his hair a nearly-white icy blue. You've got a lot of good, effective contrast elsewhere on the model but then the head and face get sort-of lost in the blue shades.
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Jun 13, 2016 20:58
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I'm painting this thing's head on the side of a Salamanders land raider tonight. Wish me luck. EDIT: on second thought, nevermind. There's just too much crap in the way for me to even pencil the lines. Star Man fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jun 13, 2016 |
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Jun 13, 2016 21:16
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Avenging Dentist posted:Paint on metal minis tends to chip more easily, but that's the only real difference, and good primer helps. Cthulhu Dreams posted:Once you've primed it is the same. I feel like priming is more important but I am not sure if that is real or confirmation bias. The figure is already one piece. Normally plastic reaper figures don't need primer (or so I heard), but is the same true for their metal figures? E: Also, I haven't been doing this long. Is primer a specific kind of paint, or do I just my regular white or black paint? Foolster41 fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Jun 13, 2016 |
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Jun 13, 2016 22:49
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You really want to use primer on metal miniatures. Bonesium is some kind of special vinyl(?) that doesn't need primer, and in fact, many primers will gently caress up Bonesium. Primer is also a different product from paint (unless you're GW; their primers really are just paint). Primers are designed to adhere really well to the material and also provide a surface that other paints can stick to easily.
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Jun 13, 2016 22:59
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Foolster41 posted:The figure is already one piece. Normally plastic reaper figures don't need primer (or so I heard), but is the same true for their metal figures? Skim the Cleaning models under the Assembly section and then the Priming section on the first page. You can either go with a rattle can of primer (white, black or grey) or get a brush on primer. If you're doing a bunch of minis at once and have a place to spray, you might want a rattle can. If you need to do all your work indoors or don't mind it being slower you might prefer a brush on primer. Feel free to ask more questions if you don't find your answer. If you're going to be playing with your metal mini or handling it a bunch after it's painted, I'd recommend sealing it to keep the paint from chipping or wearing off. I didn't see sealing on the first page but I may have just missed it.
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Jun 13, 2016 23:17
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Thanks! I'll probibly go with brush-on. I'll take a look at what they have at my game store tonight.
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Jun 13, 2016 23:31
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Latest WIP is the plastic Kingdom Death Slenderman I have the resin version painted in purples, but I have gone for inky blues, and the base has been sculpted to look like he has emerged from a pool. 
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Jun 14, 2016 00:32
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Finished my second Contemptor today:    I even magnetized the big lug!   While waiting for the varnish on the above to dry, painted this Vindicare that TheSisko gave me a while back:    
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Jun 14, 2016 04:09
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I need some help. A while ago, in this very thread, I realized my bases were one of the first color schemes I ever created. Since I painted them back when I was doing individual models, when my army is actually together it all blends together into a blur. Granted, looks really awesome on tables with a similar color palette, but that's almost never. I'd like something newer that makes my models pop more, removes some of the noise, and transitions me to 32mm. Here's my original basing job:  And here are the new candidates:  Classic Reloaded (Brown, Brown + Rocks)    Arid (Red, Yellow)    Badlands (Brown, Red + Rocks)    Which of the new ones do you dudes like? There's two that I have in mind, but I'd appreciate your suggestions and feedback.
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Jun 14, 2016 11:26
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I like badlands rocks as the one that goes best. Arid yellow is my favorite but does not compliment as well.
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Jun 14, 2016 11:47
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Badlands is a pretty solid choice. The rocks stand out enough where if you put maybe half of the members of the squad on bases like that and the other half on non rock ones, it'll really look good. I also really like the Arid Red.
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Jun 14, 2016 14:08
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Has anyone tried the new glossy Citadel washes? Are they any better at their specific job of working on metals?
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Jun 14, 2016 14:57
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Badlands without a doubt. I like the red of arid but badlands gives them some more visual interest to go with the color.
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Jun 14, 2016 15:11
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Badlands looks pretty good I think, the reddish earth is a nice contrast to the cool metal of the armor. Pops a bit better than the original brown color.
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Jun 14, 2016 17:08
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crossposted from x-wing thread. Hopefully as I get my skills back, I'll take much less time on future models. Didn't realize how much I had already spent on this one. Chill la Chill posted:Almost done with this guy. I think I've listened to most if not all of Asimov's Foundation and Empire on audiobook throughout this model so there's a solid 7-8 hours into it lol. I really should've played this guy at the games and stuff regional last weekend, oh well. Whether or not a TIE v1 is still good by next year, who knows, but I'll play with it anyway. I don't want to get a whole lightbox and camera setup prepped until I get the whole squad done, and I think the phone's sense of light/white balance might be thrown off by the painted reflections. The only other note is that the horizon line for the wing struts is too extreme at 45deg and prob should be 30deg but I wanted something that could be obviously seen to not be horizontal when viewed from afar. The jade green might be the wrong choice - idk if it should be a different tone of green or if it should be a blue instead. I might try OSL out the back.
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Jun 14, 2016 17:26
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I really like the arid yellow, but I worry I'm just going to make my models blend in again with it  My second choice was the red badlands color. Seems a lot of you dudes like that one. Thanks for your help.Chill la Chill posted:crossposted from x-wing thread. Hopefully as I get my skills back, I'll take much less time on future models. Didn't realize how much I had already spent on this one. Love what you did with this little guy (especially your $100 sisters of battle transfers). I agree about the jade engine color. It's the one thing I don't like about it. I'd either try to highlight it up to an off-white or switch it for something like a deep purple.
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Jun 14, 2016 22:38
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I really like the Arid Yellow because the color of the base ties in with the accent color of all of the caution striping. Both of the Badlands ones are nice too, though I think the one with the rocks would look nicer if the rocks were darker.
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Jun 15, 2016 04:27
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Still got a few details to rap up but by and large these guy are done. As always feedback and criticism are welcome.      
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Jun 15, 2016 10:09
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I've had to replace my Devlan mud and I just realised how glossy the new GW inks are. Makes them really annoying to glaze with as the shininess makes further highlighting a pain. Devlan mud was slightly glossy, but this new stuff feels like it's got Future mixed into it. Anyone have a good solution or decent alternative brand? How do the vallejo inks stack up? I suppose I could just dilute it with my solvent. As an aside, I've started using a mix of additives to dilute my paint and I've been finding it much better to both wet blend and glaze than just the usual water + flow improver. I've added some matte medium, glaze medium and retarder and it really makes the paint much easier to handle.
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Jun 15, 2016 10:59
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Army Painter strong tone is a decent enough colour match to mud and not glossy (that I've noticed).
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Jun 15, 2016 11:43
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So I saw a cool video that was using tree bark painted as rocks for a basing material, but I have to ask, does that stuff eventually rot or is it fine for long-term use if it's sealed? I want to try it but if my base is rotting away a year later I'll be annoyed.
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Jun 15, 2016 15:14
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BULBASAUR posted:Love what you did with this little guy (especially your $100 sisters of battle transfers). I agree about the jade engine color. It's the one thing I don't like about it. I'd either try to highlight it up to an off-white or switch it for something like a deep purple.
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Jun 15, 2016 15:25
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So another airbrushing question. Can you run an ink wash through an airbrush, or is it best to just brush it on.
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Jun 15, 2016 15:35
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jadebullet posted:So another airbrushing question. Can you run an ink wash through an airbrush, or is it best to just brush it on. It has a different effect in my experience. Inks and other super thin materials dry very quickly, so whenever I run one through my airbrush it shades nicely but doesn't have time to get into recesses. Not necessarily a drawback if that's what you want but you should test at your chosen PSI and in your airbrush etc to see how it behaves. So I guess the answer is yes but check to see how it works in your setup.
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Jun 15, 2016 15:37
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imperialparadox posted:So I saw a cool video that was using tree bark painted as rocks for a basing material, but I have to ask, does that stuff eventually rot or is it fine for long-term use if it's sealed? I want to try it but if my base is rotting away a year later I'll be annoyed. They're fine. No special treatment required. Even my unsealed bark container is perfectly fine after a few years in humid KY weather.
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Jun 15, 2016 15:49
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I keep coming across a problem in my painting that after a while the surface Im working on becomes super smooth and plasticky. It makes it hard to continue painting over and get smooth blends. Anyone else encountered this? Model Im working on at the moment now feels like Im trying to paint on a plastic oy of of the packaging rather than over layers of other paint. If I airbrush I get a surface that is fine for painting over and sometimes my brushwork gives me it to so I know theres something I can do about it. Just no idea what. This ork's bum is so smooth I cant shade it properly damnit.
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Jun 15, 2016 23:02
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Lethemonster posted:I keep coming across a problem in my painting that after a while the surface Im working on becomes super smooth and plasticky. It makes it hard to continue painting over and get smooth blends. Anyone else encountered this? Model Im working on at the moment now feels like Im trying to paint on a plastic oy of of the packaging rather than over layers of other paint. If I airbrush I get a surface that is fine for painting over and sometimes my brushwork gives me it to so I know theres something I can do about it. Just no idea what. That usually means you're nor thinning ur paints enough
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Jun 15, 2016 23:06
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Skarsnik posted:That usually means you're nor thinning ur paints enough Or are painting with too much on the brush.
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Jun 15, 2016 23:19
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