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Painting with acetone? That might smooth out some features.
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Jun 15, 2016 23:23
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Hoping someone could help me with a gloss problem I seem to have developed. I've used Les Burley's method for painting Khadoran reds (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waUqGovvO_4) The main part of the recipe is airbrushing Vallejo Red Ink over a highlighted Grey on a Black primer. On the right is a Man-O-War I painted a few years ago using the same method, and I got a great highlighted matt effect. However I've tried to replicate the scheme using the exact same paints and everything is coming out all horrible glossy. Anyone know what could have gone wrong? Does Vallejo ink go off? Did I not shake it enough? 
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Jun 16, 2016 00:06
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I can't answer your question but I recently replaced my GW red wash (which had gone off and turned pink) with Vallejo red wash and my Vallejo red is noticeably more matte than the GW red I was using before. It's weird. I liked the effect that the glossier GW gave after I hit it with a matte varnish. I think I have to highlight my reds more now.
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Jun 16, 2016 00:19
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So I'm considering getting some Vallejo liquid metals because I heard they were really smooth and I might try some of that nice European style metallic painting over NMM for once. What are the tips and tricks for working with them and can I still paint with normal acrylics over the alcohol based paint?
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Jun 16, 2016 05:37
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Lucky you. I was revisiting how I paint some of my colors and a big part are my metallics. I use liquid gold a lot: These all start with an tin colored acrylic base and are worked up from there with the various liquid gold colors. I used oil washes on them and then put more liquid gold over the top. Goes on without issue. I also use them for my highlights:  Both of these are acrylic bases with acrylic washes, and then two kinds of liquid gold highlights. Works great. Here's a side by side of doing iron 2 different ways:  The right is an acrylic base, acrylic wash, and then acrylic highlight followed up with some liquid gold silver on the top. The left is only liquid gold with oil washes. The difference looks marginal in the pic, but that's only because I put the alcohol silver of the top of both to match them. These are really shiny reflective paints and it's hard to take pictures that do them justice. The left model has more depth if you look closely. BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jun 16, 2016 |
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Jun 16, 2016 07:14
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New painter here putting together an "Orruk" for Silver Tower. I slapped an Evil Sunz emblem bit from a buggy in his midsection and I'd love it if anybody was familiar on what the old color scheme was for that orangey-yellow effect.
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Jun 16, 2016 08:07
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Skarsnik posted:That usually means you're nor thinning ur paints enough Annoyingly I paint with very thin layers and tried doing less watery ones to combat it. Ive also been told elsewhere its a result of two many very thin layers. Seems I need to find some magical middle ground through trial and error. :S
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Jun 16, 2016 09:36
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Lethemonster posted:Annoyingly I paint with very thin layers and tried doing less watery ones to combat it. Ive also been told elsewhere its a result of two many very thin layers. I've had some trouble with that before and in my case I think it was due to pigment clumping. Try adding some matte medium to your diluent mix and see if it helps. The matte medium will help provide some tooth to the surface afterwards anyway.
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Jun 16, 2016 09:53
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Dettol doesn't seem too bad for finecast. One model just did about an hour and a half in the jar and I thought maybe the long, thin spear had softened a bit but that might be because there's less paint keeping it rigid now. The rest of the model is fine. Will be slow going removing all the paint at this speed. Probably should have bought new from GW for the extra time it's costing me.
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Jun 16, 2016 12:45
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the main problem with dettol is the smell your whole life will smell of it
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Jun 16, 2016 13:45
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A couple of guys in my group and I did an order for magnet receptive rolled steel for movement trays. When I place a model with a magnetized base on it, I might as well be using cardboard, because it doesn't hold poo poo. gently caress. 
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Jun 16, 2016 13:53
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Z the IVth posted:I've had some trouble with that before and in my case I think it was due to pigment clumping. Try adding some matte medium to your diluent mix and see if it helps. The matte medium will help provide some tooth to the surface afterwards anyway. This. I finally bought some of the (incredibly overpriced) lahmian medium, and layers including it definitely leave a finish that takes more paint v well. Can't speak to other mediums but as is well documented here, they're probably all identical and less exorbitantly priced.
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Jun 16, 2016 16:08
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Chill la Chill posted:So I'm considering getting some Vallejo liquid metals because I heard they were really smooth and I might try some of that nice European style metallic painting over NMM for once. What are the tips and tricks for working with them and can I still paint with normal acrylics over the alcohol based paint? Any paint that gets in the wrong place can easily be removed with a bit of alcohol, but the alcohol will strip your acrylics, so varnish before you paint. There's no alcohol left when the paint is completely dry, so you can varnish or paint over them. But varnish will kill the lustre, so you might want to do a final highlight after any varnish. At this point I honestly prefer Scale 75's metals for the convienience and great result they give. Bit Vallejo's are great, they just take a bit getting used to.
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Jun 16, 2016 16:41
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Electric Hobo posted:At this point I honestly prefer Scale 75's metals for the convienience and great result they give. Bit Vallejo's are great, they just take a bit getting used to. I wish there was something like Old Gold in another range. I've mixed tons of paints and really couldn't get anything close to it.
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Jun 16, 2016 16:52
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Thanks for the advice and comparison pictures. Considering what I'll likely use them for, I'll look for a different product instead. I don't want to go through the trouble just to make small portions metallic. I probably don't want the extra luster they provide anyway.
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Jun 16, 2016 17:15
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Skarsnik posted:the main problem with dettol is the smell Mum used to use it around the house so it's never bothered me tbh. Getting some in my eye has, though.
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Jun 16, 2016 18:42
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I went on a super model scrubbing spree where I cleaned off some tanks, dreadnoughts, necron scythes and special unit minis in one go. Apparently I burned out the bit of my brain that detects dettol as I cant smell it anymore, even if I put it up to my nose and sniff. Family complain when they come over and Ive been using it and I didnt even realise it had left a smell. As far as my paint lyers problem goes - I was using a medium mix and still having the same problem. It finally occured to me to mix up my paint as though I was going to run it through an airbrush and just paint with it instead and voila, my problems have gone. Also, to fix the areas that had gone plasticky/waxy I gave them a citadel wash with a bit of medium mixed in so it would stay on all the surfaces like a glaze. I chose the washes so they wouldn't change the colour too much and now have a surface I can continue painting on rather than having to strip and start again.
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Jun 16, 2016 19:59
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 Maybe he doesn't need stripping. Blends in perfectly.
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Jun 16, 2016 19:59
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It's really not very hard to work with OG paints. Just use 90% alcohol instead of water and use a separate synthetic brush. Highlight after you varnish.
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Jun 16, 2016 20:12
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So are the recommendations on the first post for airbrushing accoutrements still good? Specifically, a compressor. I'm getting into 40K, but I've never painted or airbrushed before. I know it's likely more prudent to play around with just brushes and paint first, but I get the impression that airbrushing really takes the look of the painting to a higher level. I have the disposable income to get into the hobby, and I don't expect that my first attempts will win a painting award, I just want my minis to look pretty. A true concern I have is workspace. I live in a row house with shared walls. The areas I think I'd be airbrushing in are my unfinished (and dusty) basement or a spare bedroom. Besides the dust, I think the basement would work, but ventilation in both spaces has me questioning where to do the work and if I should even pursue airbrushing. Can you do it if you don't have a garage?
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Jun 16, 2016 20:22
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I live in an apartment with birds (can't have horrible fumes or they die) and a fiancee who likes to watch TV with me while I paint. I actually didn't get into airbrushing until recently because I thought that I didn't have room, but I was wrong. The compressor I got is a Iwata Ninja. It is a really nice compressor and it is about as loud as my air conditioner so noise isn't a problem. I also use Vallejo game air paints, which are really good airbrush paints that are water based, so not toxic fumes. My airbrush rig consists of the compressor, a moisture trap, and my Badger Sotar 20/20. I paint on my computer desk, and when I do airbrushing, all I do is take an old dark eldar raider box, put the lid on so that the top and bottom of the box form a right angle, and just spray my stuff in that. No over spray at all. It's really nice. I do wear a dust mask though, because while the fumes aren't toxic, I don't think breathing in atomized paint would be good for my lungs.
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Jun 16, 2016 20:41
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jadebullet posted:I live in an apartment with birds (can't have horrible fumes or they die) and a fiancee who likes to watch TV with me while I paint. I actually didn't get into airbrushing until recently because I thought that I didn't have room, but I was wrong. The ninja and 20/20 is a lovely setup. I can recommend those cheap (£40 for me I don't know what that is in moon dollars) folding airbrush booths that are on eBay. Even if you don't run the extraction they're good for catch paint and having a turntable. I've modded mine with daylight LED strips that run off the same psu. I should probably write that up and put it online somewhere.
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Jun 16, 2016 20:46
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jadebullet posted:I live in an apartment with birds (can't have horrible fumes or they die) and a fiancee who likes to watch TV with me while I paint. I actually didn't get into airbrushing until recently because I thought that I didn't have room, but I was wrong. This is great. Your setup is exactly what I'm shooting for (Sotor 20/20, Ninja). I'm relieved that it can be done in a relatively small office, and I'll check out the Vallejo paint line. Thanks a lot.
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Jun 16, 2016 20:48
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It's the aerosol rattle cans you don't want to use indoors because of the propellants. Airbrushes just use air as the propellant.
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Jun 16, 2016 20:48
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Goons, I could use some advice. I am one of the very bad play with grey miniatures people but I want to break out of that slump. I have loads of paints, a good airbrush and compressor, etc, so the only excuse I have is laziness and lack of talent. Anyhow, I want to paint up a Night Stalker army for Kings of War and several of the units are 'shadowy' like spectres and phantoms. The easy route seems to be to prime white and wash with the Oxide stuff from GW but that wouldn't be suitably 'dark'. I could just go black through grey highlights but that isn't going to look painted as much as primed. So I'm wondering if anyone has a recipe for spectral figures that is more in the dark blue/dark purple range? The first couple of models I'll be painting are this DnD Fire Elemental to proxy as a Shadow Hulk:  And this unit of GW Spirit Hosts and unit filler to use as Spectres: 
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Jun 16, 2016 20:50
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TKIY posted:So I'm wondering if anyone has a recipe for spectral figures that is more in the dark blue/dark purple range? I'm going to use three models I painted somewhat recently as an example of the kind of purple spectral I do.  Some of the ghosts/wights from Dungeon Saga. I painted these in about 4 hours, and used a simple base coat/wash/drybrush/highlight combo, which is quick and easy and gets good tabletop results. I started by priming the models black, followed by a base coat of Reaper Master Series Nightshade Purple. This was followed by a 50/50 mix of Nightshade and RMS Monach Purple, then straight Monarch Purple. As I went along I made sure to leave some of the previous color in the deepest recesses, going progressively more towards the edges. Once dry, I hit it with Army Painter Purple Tone to blend the layers together and help darken it a bit. Once dry, I went with a drybrush of Monarch Purple, followed by a 50/50 mix of Monarch Purple and RMS Royal Purple, then straight RMS Royal Purple. This was followed by line-highlights of 50/50 Royal Purple and RMS Amethyst Purple, concentrating on the higher points of the cloth--this was mostly the cowl and upper parts of the torso. Finally, a highlight of Amethyst Purple over the previous highlight, with a final 50/50 mix of Amethyst and RMS Pure White sparingly, trying to focus on where light would fall on these models. With the models you linked, I'd do the following using this recipe: leave mostly dark purple/black near the bottom portions and torsos, while going progressively lighter along the arms and heads. With the spirit hosts especially, use a bit more white with the teeth, eye sockets, and knuckles--just little dabs of white will do, and it'll make them pop quite nicely as a result. You could make their weapons metallic with a purple wash, or just purple like the rest of them--I don't think you could go wrong with either choice. If you're more partial to blue, you can just replace the colors I listed with dark blues--the technique doesn't change, just the color choice.
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Jun 16, 2016 21:42
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im gaye posted:I'd love it if anybody was familiar on what the old color scheme was for that orangey-yellow effect. Not sure what you mean by orange-yellow effect. Are you talking about a glow? A specific color? Got any pictures of what you want to replicate?
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Jun 17, 2016 00:59
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So I really love airbrushing. In half an hour, I just managed to get the main brown color on all 21 of my cultists along with low lights and high lights(thanks to Zenithal) when it would normally take me about 45 minutes of meticulous brush painting. The only issue I have with my ninja is that it rattles at times. I spend about 2 minutes every time moving it around on the floor to stop it from doing that. I don't know what is causing it either, as I made sure all of the screws were tight, and the rattling goes away if I pick it up.
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Jun 17, 2016 01:31
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Galaga Galaxian posted:Not sure what you mean by orange-yellow effect. Are you talking about a glow? A specific color? Got any pictures of what you want to replicate?  Sort of a rich luster like this instead of a flat red effect. I'm still learning.
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Jun 17, 2016 01:38
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im gaye posted:
Please make a bunch of pizza party orcs
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Jun 17, 2016 05:23
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im gaye posted:
The effect is called getting a paintbrush really wet and painting in a criss-cross. Paint the yellow on top of the red and layer. It's no different from acryllic or oil painting on canvas or wood panel.
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Jun 17, 2016 07:29
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Slimnoid posted:I'm going to use three models I painted somewhat recently as an example of the kind of purple spectral I do. Cool, this is the sort of thing I was looking for. I had originally thought of going with zenithal highlighting and washing but I wasn't sure how that would go...
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Jun 17, 2016 14:07
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TTerrible posted:I've modded mine with daylight LED strips that run off the same psu. I should probably write that up and put it online somewhere. jadebullet posted:The only issue I have with my ninja is that it rattles at times. I spend about 2 minutes every time moving it around on the floor to stop it from doing that. I don't know what is causing it either, as I made sure all of the screws were tight, and the rattling goes away if I pick it up.
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Jun 17, 2016 14:42
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TKIY posted:Cool, this is the sort of thing I was looking for. That could work, although I would follow the wash with a purple glaze to help blend it together better. It'd certainly be quicker if you do it like that, especially in batches.
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Jun 17, 2016 17:26
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The Heresy train ain't got no brakes      
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Jun 17, 2016 20:15
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Your photography is getting really good Also rad mans
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Jun 17, 2016 20:17
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SRM posted:The Heresy train ain't got no brakes TOOT!TOOT! Finished 5 veterans as well as putting the final details on the rest of the 10 man squad! All they need now are some transfers and they're ready for the tabletop!  
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Jun 17, 2016 20:21
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I was using this Rustoleum primer for my minis. It was super easy to use, the primer was really smooth, turned out perfect. But it took multiple, multiple day long soaks in acetone followed by scrubbing with a bronze bristle brush to clean the primer off for when I hosed up and needed to repaint. I'm new at this, so I've needed to do that a lot. I switched to this hobby primer to give it a try. I dropped the mini in acetone and the primer dissolved within 10 seconds. Hnnngh
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Jun 18, 2016 02:56
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sugar free jazz posted:I was using this Rustoleum primer for my minis. It was super easy to use, the primer was really smooth, turned out perfect. But it took multiple, multiple day long soaks in acetone followed by scrubbing with a bronze bristle brush to clean the primer off for when I hosed up and needed to repaint. I'm new at this, so I've needed to do that a lot. I switched to this hobby primer to give it a try. I dropped the mini in acetone and the primer dissolved within 10 seconds. Hnnngh Vallejo Surface Primer or Stynylrez. Get an airbrush or use a regular brush, either way works.
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Jun 18, 2016 03:05
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| # ? May 9, 2024 11:44 |
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Just got some Vallejo liquid gold. Amazing paint. Unfortunately my old habit of licking my brushes came back to haunt me. They taste like vodka and death.
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Jun 18, 2016 09:34
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