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Ola posted:Flashers are pretty easy to diagnose. You may have to check the wiring diagram, but normally the + side has 12 volt all the time while the relay switches the ground. So you should get 12 volt between the + connector on the bulb and the ground side on the battery. Since all signals are out, it might be the switch itself. A spray of WD40 might sort it. But you can check it by measuring continuity between the ground connector on the bulb and the relevant relay connector. I will attempt these things tomorrow. And see what's up.
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Jun 13, 2016 01:42
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Zipperelli. posted:Would a scrap yard pay anything worthwhile, or should I just let it rot on CL until someone with plenty of time and money comes along to snatch it up?
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Jun 13, 2016 03:16
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What type of bike? I've ridden a few carbed bikes where under very hard braking the fuel sloshes to the front of the bowls, and the mixture goes lean and it stalls.
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Jun 13, 2016 04:46
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Z3n posted:What type of bike? I've ridden a few carbed bikes where under very hard braking the fuel sloshes to the front of the bowls, and the mixture goes lean and it stalls. If you're referring to my posts it is a ZRX1200R, so it is carbed. I'd considered that possibility, but I assumed that for a sporty-ish bike Kawasaki would have corrected for that kind of behavior under strain.  I also assumed I wouldn't be capable of braking hard enough for that to be possible.
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Jun 13, 2016 04:51
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It's sort of a design flaw with common carb designs - if you meter fuel via float level, you're sensitive to extreme G forces.
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Jun 13, 2016 05:10
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Z3n posted:It's sort of a design flaw with common carb designs - if you meter fuel via float level, you're sensitive to extreme G forces. Oh cool. I guess that means I'm now beyond the limits of my zrx. Just need to scrape 20k together so you can build me that R1 naked.
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Jun 13, 2016 05:53
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Chichevache posted:I'd considered that possibility, but I assumed that for a sporty-ish bike Kawasaki would have corrected for that kind of behavior under strain. Hahahahaha. You mean after they finished raiding the tractor plant for parts right? That bike is many glorious things but clever it ain't. Chichevache posted:Oh cool. I guess that means I'm now beyond the limits of my zrx. Just need to scrape 20k together so you can build me that R1 naked. Rubbish that's what flatslides are for. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiXHLPz-tro Bikes have been braking a lot harder than the rex can for a good while longer than efi has been mainstream. 
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Jun 13, 2016 07:47
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Slavvy posted:Hahahahaha. You mean after they finished raiding the tractor plant for parts right? That bike is many glorious things but clever it ain't. I was joking about being beyond the bike, but I am interested in the flatslides. Thanks.
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Jun 13, 2016 08:04
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Zipperelli. posted:I'm looking into getting rid of my Hyosung GT650R, and am curious what my options are if I can't get it taken off my hands via CL or Cycle Trader (priced it super low because it needs a fair bit of TLC)? I have some of the parts it needs (new regulator, plugs, brake pads), but just no time to get it back to where it was a year ago, my daily workhorse. Tip 1: Do the TLCs Tip 2: Find the Hyosung GT650 enthusiasts forum, advertise it there. Might need to go deep web on this one.
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Jun 13, 2016 08:04
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Chichevache posted:I was joking about being beyond the bike, but I am interested in the FTFY
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Jun 13, 2016 16:51
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But the sound.
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Jun 13, 2016 17:33
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BlackMK4 posted:But the sound. Sorry, but even with flatslides that ZRX sounds lame.
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Jun 13, 2016 18:52
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Sorry, but even with flatslides that ZRX sounds lame. 
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Jun 13, 2016 22:04
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7iaPrv1P9U https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWYyDfxlGxo
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Jun 13, 2016 22:24
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duc bros holla front, where do you guys order parts typically?
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Jun 13, 2016 22:54
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All this fuss and it was a blown fuse that I thought I'd checked. I feel rather silly.
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Jun 13, 2016 22:55
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If your flatslides are light switches you done hosed up. Good flatslides offer a throttle to engine connection that is only now being achieved by FI.
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Jun 14, 2016 00:09
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On the topic of flatslides https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqUb0k7bkmI Well, that's interesting. I want to know what it was built for.
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Jun 14, 2016 02:09
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7iaPrv1P9U Oh so by 'lame' you mean 'not like a firebreathing gixxer race bike' in which case I agree. Z3n posted:If your flatslides are light switches you done hosed up. Good flatslides offer a throttle to engine connection that is only now being achieved by FI. Pretty much, they are absolutely loving wonderful. I don't know how they compare to retrofitting efi but that seems somehow wrong on older bikes. BlackMK4 posted:On the topic of flatslides Fun and/or pain would be my guess.
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Jun 14, 2016 02:13
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I was hoping it was for some weird class that would lead me to finding other cool poo poo like it on Google 
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Jun 14, 2016 02:16
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My '02 Bonneville makes a strange 'air escaping quickly' sound from the front of the bike when hitting medium/large size bumps. It sounds like it's coming from the front suspension, but I always wear a helmet so who knows how accurate that sound location is. The sound is best described as air being pushed out of something through a smaller sized hole. Think of when you sit on a couch or chair that has a plasticy cover, and the air has to escape out somewhere. It only happens when I'm moving. I thought it might be my seat (there is a small 1" tear there), but it won't make the sound if I"m jumping on my bike and compressing the seat while at a stand still. Lastly, the noise existed before and after I installed cartridge emulators in the front forks, which required changing the fork oil out. Not sure if that would be relevant. Is it just my goonass hitting the seat hard enough at speed? Is this something I should be concerned about?
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Jun 14, 2016 17:20
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Fishvilla posted:
It's probably from the front suspension and probably not something to worry about. Does it make the sound if you compress the front suspension with the brake?
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Jun 14, 2016 17:39
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Ola posted:It's probably from the front suspension and probably not something to worry about. Does it make the sound if you compress the front suspension with the brake? I've tried compressing the front suspension pretty rapidly & intensely with the front wheel locked at a stop, but I can't get the noise to appear unless I'm riding.
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Jun 14, 2016 17:42
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That's just your cat. It hisses when it suspects warranty-voiding behavior.
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Jun 15, 2016 22:34
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Fishvilla posted:My '02 Bonneville makes a strange 'air escaping quickly' sound from the front of the bike when hitting medium/large size bumps. It sounds like it's coming from the front suspension, but I always wear a helmet so who knows how accurate that sound location is. The sound is best described as air being pushed out of something through a smaller sized hole. Think of when you sit on a couch or chair that has a plasticy cover, and the air has to escape out somewhere. Hmm. Tire bead not holding and letting air out? Tire pressures look ok?
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Jun 15, 2016 23:11
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Geirskogul posted:That's just your cat. It hisses when it suspects warranty-voiding behavior. Hate That Cat. Gorson posted:Hmm. Tire bead not holding and letting air out? Tire pressures look ok? Interesting idea, but I haven't had any drastic changes in tire pressure (over 2 or 3 PSI) in between any rides. It's a tubed tire, and it is pretty darn consistent. I'm thinking it must be the seat. Google has turned up nothing, and I feel like air leaking out from anywhere else in the bike in this consistent manner would manifest itself in some major problem.
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Jun 15, 2016 23:23
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Fishvilla posted:I'm thinking it must be the seat. Google has turned up nothing, and I feel like air leaking out from anywhere else in the bike in this consistent manner would manifest itself in some major problem. I would think so. I don't see how it could be anything in the front forks, they're totally sealed and if the seal is failing you'd have oil on the fork tubes.
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Jun 15, 2016 23:28
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Forks can make a hissing noise even if air isn't escaping - I doubt it's blowing through the seal, but maybe it is. I don't know why, maybe some cavitation sorcery in the fork valves.
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Jun 16, 2016 00:00
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Fishvilla posted:My '02 Bonneville makes a strange 'air escaping quickly' sound from the front of the bike when hitting medium/large size bumps. It sounds like it's coming from the front suspension, but I always wear a helmet so who knows how accurate that sound location is. The sound is best described as air being pushed out of something through a smaller sized hole. Think of when you sit on a couch or chair that has a plasticy cover, and the air has to escape out somewhere. Similar thing just happened to me with my Ninja 250, changing out the fork oil. I didn't properly seat the rings that hold the fork caps in place, causing an air whoosh noise when I compressed the forks. That was at a standstill, didn't ride the bike like that. So maybe go back and check your work?
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Jun 16, 2016 01:39
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Also are you sure it's not just the noise your front brake makes? Have you tried cleaning the disk? It's unlikely but probably worth checking before you start tearing your suspension apart.
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Jun 16, 2016 07:32
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TheNothingNew posted:Similar thing just happened to me with my Ninja 250, changing out the fork oil. I didn't properly seat the rings that hold the fork caps in place, causing an air whoosh noise when I compressed the forks. That was at a standstill, didn't ride the bike like that. So maybe go back and check your work? This sounds super similar to my issue. Do you mind expanding on 'seat the rings that hold the fork caps in place'? I'm a  novice and don't quite understand that. Does it just mean having the triple trees & fork caps tightened properly? goddamnedtwisto posted:Also are you sure it's not just the noise your front brake makes? Have you tried cleaning the disk? It's unlikely but probably worth checking before you start tearing your suspension apart. I never thought about the front brake. I'm not sure how it would make that noise, but a cleaning wouldn't hurt either way. Thanks for the idea.
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Jun 16, 2016 16:29
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EX250 keeps sending the rear wheel out of alignment when I use the rear brake. I just did the chain and sprockets, put it all back together, adjusted everything, tightened the axle bolts and the bolt on that arm that the brake calliper sits on. Then, when I brake, the right side of the rear axle shifts back about 1/2 a notch, which of course also makes the chain too tight. Fixed it, tightened everything really well, and happened again right away. I've never seen anything like this before, and am not sure where the problem lies. Research turns up nothing. Any ideas?
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Jun 16, 2016 16:53
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Coydog posted:EX250 keeps sending the rear wheel out of alignment when I use the rear brake. I just did the chain and sprockets, put it all back together, adjusted everything, tightened the axle bolts and the bolt on that arm that the brake calliper sits on. Then, when I brake, the right side of the rear axle shifts back about 1/2 a notch, which of course also makes the chain too tight. Fixed it, tightened everything really well, and happened again right away. Do you have a torque wrench?
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Jun 16, 2016 18:20
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Do you have a torque wrench? Yes, but I've never used it on any axle nuts before. Just tighten everything really tight, and it's good to go. I have to be doing it more than spec.
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Jun 16, 2016 19:06
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You should use it on things that keep your bike from falling apart while riding.
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Jun 16, 2016 19:11
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I literally just got the torque wrench the other day, because I understand the importance. But, really, I have always just used the supplied toolkit to do stuff like this. There is a cotter pin to stop it from falling apart, and threadlocker blue for the rest. Again, I cannot figure out why the rear is shifting, if everything is set tighter than spec.
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Jun 16, 2016 19:14
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If you haven't used the torque wrench on it, how do you know it's tighter than spec?  Your arm isn't a calibrated torque measuring device.
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Jun 16, 2016 19:29
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The first time I used a torque wrench to spec (on a bicycle) I was afraid I was going to break either the bike, or the wrench. Would have never torqued all the way to spec without the wrench
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Jun 16, 2016 19:37
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I ask because torque specs on rear axle nuts are typically really loving tight. Like 90 ft-lbs or so, depending on the machine. Edit: Looks like ~80 ft-lbs for an EX250. Which would be painfully tight with the stock tool kit, unless it's got a 12" cheater pipe included. Rule it out before you speculate much more. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Jun 16, 2016 |
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Jun 16, 2016 20:11
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HotCanadianChick posted:If you haven't used the torque wrench on it, how do you know it's tighter than spec? Mine is. Also doubles as an impact wrench.
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Jun 16, 2016 20:12
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