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kimbo305 posted:I would not buy that car if I couldn't drive it with the top off 90% of the time. I'd offer 43. Residency Evil posted:I offered 40k (which is a bit low). He countered with 47k. I have to keep reminding myself that 55k is a lot of miles for one of these, and that I'd ideally be buying next spring as opposed to right now. We're at 43k. Should I do it, pending PPI, or is 55k miles really a shitton for a car like this? The Spyder really hits me in the right places. The alternative is waiting (like I probably should) and getting a recent Cayman S/GTS next spring, which would probably be better as a daily driver. Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Jun 10, 2016 |
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Jun 10, 2016 16:36
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I wouldn't say 55k is a lot for a Porsche reliability wise. Depreciation wise may be a different story. The Spyder is so niche it's hard to say.
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Jun 10, 2016 18:38
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I would buy it if it looked in very good shape. Some cars have a lot of interior wear by 50k, and that's all I'd be concerned about. 50k on the motor doesn't bother me.
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Jun 10, 2016 19:01
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 Sad to be leaving her in this spot for 6 months. Anyone else go through Porsche withdrawal?
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Jun 10, 2016 22:46
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The Sicilian posted:
However this year my S2 is getting a full respray starting october. The paint shop will keep it as a project, and work on it for a few months. Admittedly, the paint isn't too bad, but there's enough stone chips and rust problem areas as well as the paint fading a bit on the roof and bonnet that I feel it's worth starting from scratch. 
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Jun 11, 2016 13:07
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Just done did 1500 miles with a buddy in his 911 and thinking again of Caymaning (because the two cars are  http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/5577441024.html  http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/5568878999.html I'm looking at both this weekend. Any thoughts here besides get the IMS checked in a PPI? The S would be the obvious choice but I don't dig on the silver grille, intakes and wheels that come with the appearance package, they seem gaudy as hell, and I'm not sold on the beige interior. Which would you choose? What do you think the two cars are worth?
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Jun 17, 2016 06:10
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blk posted:Just done did 1500 miles with a buddy in his 911 and thinking again of Caymaning (because the two cars are I prefer the grey one myself; as nice as blue is, the beige interior is going to be a bitch to keep clean. Can you actually have the IMS looked at at any time? I mean, it's way the gently caress down inside the engine. I'm curious because I'm kind of in the same boat as you are in that I am seriously considering buying a 987C as a daily driver to replace my E46.
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Jun 18, 2016 03:52
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blk posted:Just done did 1500 miles with a buddy in his 911 and thinking again of Caymaning (because the two cars are All things being equal I'd go with the S because other than being a better car it's a better color since Porsche owners seem completely retarded for silvers and grays. Also that appearance package is excellent and even if you don't love it I bet it'd help resale quite a bit.
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Jun 18, 2016 04:18
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Check that silver one out carefully, if you do go look. I'd wager it was hit in the front.
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Jun 18, 2016 05:06
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Picked up this 944 a few days ago. A few pictures from the ad:   As soon as I got it home things started breaking and making sounds it didn't make when I went to look at it. Looks good sitting in my driveway though! I have a feeling this is going to be a very painful ownership experience.
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Jun 18, 2016 09:13
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Ansith posted:As soon as I got it home things started breaking and making sounds it didn't make when I went to look at it. Looks good sitting in my driveway though! I just bought a Holden Rodeo that's doing exactly the same thing. Porsche would definitely look better in the driveway though... Love the embossed Alcantara inserts in the seats.
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Jun 18, 2016 13:55
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How did I not see that one of those Caymans was an S and the other wasn't!  It's a no-brainer in that case, go S or don't bother.
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Jun 18, 2016 15:45
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BlackMK4 posted:Check that silver one out carefully, if you do go look. I'd wager it was hit in the front. What makes you say this? I'm viewing on mobile granted.
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Jun 18, 2016 15:46
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howling_mad posted:What makes you say this? I'm viewing on mobile granted. The front fender there doesn't exactly match the door, in my opinion. It's slightly darker. I know it could be the lighting but it's still off.
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Jun 18, 2016 18:36
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Ansith posted:As soon as I got it home things started breaking and making sounds it didn't make when I went to look at it. Looks good sitting in my driveway though! I daily drive one and recently resurrected another that has been sitting for several years. These cars will punish you for sitting. They need to be driven. Yours has probably sat for a while. Take it slow, lots of small trips to shake it out. Don't ignore noises. If you're reasonably handy you should have it reliable in a couple of months. Feel free to ask questions. I and others here know these cars and will be happy to help.
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Jun 18, 2016 23:28
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Motronic posted:I daily drive one and recently resurrected another that has been sitting for several years. From what I can tell in the service history it was a daily driver for most of it's life up until 07. Then it was a weekender for a few years, then it sat for 4 years. The PO had it for 6 months and drove it to work for a while, so it has had some use. I'll keep it to short trips for now, I've got another car to drive until I'm happy enough with the 944 to daily it. I plan do do any work that isn't major 10 hour jobs myself, apart from the timing belt. I'll leave that for someone experienced to do. It's had the water pump and belts done just before I bought it, for the most part it runs well. It's a bit hard to start, I put new plugs in and have ordered dizzy, rotor, and leads. Hopefully that will help. It's got a bit of an exhaust leak too so I think I'll just get it replaced, that should quieten it down a bit. The noise I noticed once I got it home is a rattle in the rear when the clutch is engaged in neutral. It goes away if I rev it or if I disengage the clutch. I knocked the simplest job out of the way and changed the transaxle fluid which looked pretty clean with no metal shavings or anything in it but it made no difference. Reading up on it it sounds like it could be the torque tube bearings or the clutch itself. edit: The day after I got it home it developed a lazy eye too. No idea what's going on there: 
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Jun 19, 2016 04:58
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Ansith posted:have ordered dizzy, rotor, and leads. You're doing a good job already. Make sure you get the actual overpriced Bosch cap and rotor. Most of the aftermarkets I've seen are poo poo. Does it idle okay once started? Also, does it restart immediately after you've gotten it to start once? (I'm thinking fuel pressure bleeding off here - at some point you may want to dig up a fuel pressure tester to see if it's going away overnight) You can't do the "turn the ignition on and wait for the fuel pump to get pressure back up" thing on these cars because the pump only runs when the speed sensor sees the motor turning fast enough (engages the DME relay). Which bring to mind......you need a spare DME relay in the globe box. Just go get one. Some day you'll be happy you did. Also, you'll need a special tool to get the bottom screw of the cap released (push in + 90 degree turn to the right) or this will be a very unfun job. So go find yourself a crappy flat head screwdriver and a torch.  You want to make the pointy bit long enough to clear the cap with the wires on and still have enough left over to push in the bottom cap screw, but not enough so you're touching all the poo poo that's in the way in front of the cap. Ansith posted:The noise I noticed once I got it home is a rattle in the rear when the clutch is engaged in neutral. It goes away if I rev it or if I disengage the clutch. I knocked the simplest job out of the way and changed the transaxle fluid which looked pretty clean with no metal shavings or anything in it but it made no difference. Reading up on it it sounds like it could be the torque tube bearings or the clutch itself. Yeah, that sounds like torque tube bearings to me. Ansith posted:edit: The day after I got it home it developed a lazy eye too. No idea what's going on there: The flip up lights are amazingly robust on these cars. They are powered, but spring a bit on the downside to prevent destroying the motor/gears in these situations. So if one isn't going down all the way something is interfering with it or you just need to lubricate all of the pivots (white lithium spray works well for this). I've had that look because I left a rag or something in there, or once because the pickup from the air box to the fender came off and was just sitting down there in the way. Motronic fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Jun 19, 2016 |
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Jun 19, 2016 15:09
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Motronic posted:The flip up lights are amazingly robust on these cars. I was amazed at the size of the rod that actuates the popping. At first it seems a bit classic German overengineering, but thinking about how FCA would use the cheapest plastic in the same situation, I can appreciate how well it's held up.
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Jun 19, 2016 16:45
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kimbo305 posted:I was amazed at the size of the rod that actuates the popping. At first it seems a bit classic German overengineering, but thinking about how FCA would use the cheapest plastic in the same situation, I can appreciate how well it's held up. And think about basically every other 80s car with popup headlights that have been left permanently up because "gently caress this poo poo, I'm not fixing it" (lol GM). This may be the single instance where German overengineering actually worked out.
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Jun 19, 2016 19:26
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So the 24 hours of Le Mans just proved that your Porsche is more reliable than a Toyota. Please keep that in mind with your next purchase.
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Jun 20, 2016 03:58
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Ansith posted:Picked up this 944 a few days ago. A few pictures from the ad: I'm in love with that color it's fantastic.
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Jun 20, 2016 11:54
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Motronic posted:You're doing a good job already. Make sure you get the actual overpriced Bosch cap and rotor. Most of the aftermarkets I've seen are poo poo. I think I ordered a Fuelmiser cap, I haven't had trouble with the brand before on other cars. If it doesn't work out I'll know why! Idle feels rough but I think one of my engine mounts is stuffed. I'm still getting used to the car, so every time I start it I find something else. Doesn't seem like it's a fuel pressure issue, even restarting warm it is a bit of trouble at times. It does have a charging issue, I replaced the old battery but it didn't help. I ordered a new voltage regulator, pretty cheap so it's worth a shot. Even with the low battery charge the motor should fire up a bit quicker than it is. I'll make sure to grab the DME relay, knowing about things before they get me stuck on the side of the road for hours is a good thing! Thanks for the heads up on that screwdriver too, I figured there would be a few bits and pieces on the car where I'd need a modified tool. Motronic posted:Yeah, that sounds like torque tube bearings to me. I did a little bit of reading on it but it's a bit 50/50 on if this is an urgent problem or not. Should I just wait until I destroy the clutch and do both at the same time? Motronic posted:The flip up lights are amazingly robust on these cars. They are powered, but spring a bit on the downside to prevent destroying the motor/gears in these situations. So if one isn't going down all the way something is interfering with it or you just need to lubricate all of the pivots (white lithium spray works well for this). I've had that look because I left a rag or something in there, or once because the pickup from the air box to the fender came off and was just sitting down there in the way. Got myself some white lithium spray and sprayed it on the joints, didn't make a difference but straight away I noticed what I think is the pump for the windshield washer bottle had fallen off the bottle and was sitting in the way. You're definitely right about these headlights being well built, I'm sure if it was any other car the headlight would have just mashed into the pump and I'd have a broken something on my hands. Shrapnig posted:I'm in love with that color it's fantastic. I actually wanted a car with a sunroof but I loved this colour so I went for it. I think I might have paid too much now that I'm finding all these mechanical issues, still really happy with it though.
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Jun 20, 2016 14:18
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Motronic posted:Which bring to mind......you need a spare DME relay in the globe box. Just go get one. Some day you'll be happy you did. My 944 doesn't even have the original relays anymore (track car) and I still have a DME in my truck. Kind of a keepsake I guess.
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Jun 20, 2016 14:34
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Ansith posted:I did a little bit of reading on it but it's a bit 50/50 on if this is an urgent problem or not. Should I just wait until I destroy the clutch and do both at the same time? Yes. I mean......unless it's really loud and annoying and stats to give you problems. But if you do either you should just do both because you're basically at the clutch once the TT is out. EDIT: Just noticed this. Ansith posted:It does have a charging issue, I replaced the old battery but it didn't help. I ordered a new voltage regulator, pretty cheap so it's worth a shot. Even with the low battery charge the motor should fire up a bit quicker than it is. Well, that depends on how fast it's turning over. Things don't happen until it spins fast enough, so an old battery absolutely can cause this. Also.....what kind of charging problem? Does your voltage gauge work? If not grab a multimeter. Start the car, let it idle. 12.<something too low> volts? Okay, not charging. Now rev it to 3k RPMs. 13.something volts? It's charging now. If that's the case, someone did a bad job of bypassing the alarm and your field wire isn't working (the blue one). You can fix it.......or just remember to rev things up like a teenager every time to start it. Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Jun 20, 2016 |
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Jun 20, 2016 20:24
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Motronic posted:Yes. I mean......unless it's really loud and annoying and stats to give you problems. But if you do either you should just do both because you're basically at the clutch once the TT is out. It isn't too loud, so I'll leave it. I think trying to fix that now would either send me bankrupt or create a few too many stressful weekends of working under the car. Motronic posted:Also.....what kind of charging problem? Does your voltage gauge work? If not grab a multimeter. Start the car, let it idle. 12.<something too low> volts? Okay, not charging. Now rev it to 3k RPMs. 13.something volts? It's charging now. Volt gauge seems to be working (I think the only thing inside the car that doesn't work is the clock), it shows between a flat 12 to 12.7. No change when holding up the revs. It's charging, just not enough.
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Jun 20, 2016 23:14
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As a non-Porsche guy, how much of a disaster would this be? I would prefer a coupe but.. http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/medicine-hat/porsche-911-carrera/1154013383?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true quote:Super car in great shape. Has rebuilt transmission new rear window in soft top new battery and alternator, brakes really all of the service items have been done. Have hard and soft tops. Never winter driven On tablet will paste ad photo later
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Jun 21, 2016 04:29
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So I am very seriously considering this car. Just took it for a drive and it pulls really well and feels tight. Interior has a bit of wear, nothing serious. Exterior looks better than I would expect a car with 130K on it. I am not a fan of the color, but it does look better in person. It was originally a Southern US car and it shows, the underside of it is spotless. No leaks and doesn't burn oil. Front bumper needed to be painted because he took out a bird which spidered the paint or something. A very good but not perfect match. All dealer serviced. Brakes were just done, transmission was rebuilt a couple years ago due to a bad 2nd synchro or something, but the 6 speed shifts well and no concerns with that. Dealer redid the cooling system (reservoir, pump) recently too. Only thing that is giving me pause is I don't know the status of the intermediate shaft bearing. I am trying to see what the owner knows about it. If he doesn't think it's done that is probably going to be a deal breaker. Thoughts?
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Jun 22, 2016 23:16
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If there's no receipt for the work, I'd never consider it done. Discount the asking price by the cost of the IMS replacement and get dat porch  That's the best deal I've seen on a 911 in AB for awhile now, so if he'll deal on the IMS issue I'd do it for sure
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Jun 23, 2016 01:41
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The guy knows for a fact it's not done which is a real pity because he just had the transmission redone a while back. Why on earth they wouldn't do it then I don't know but dude says that Porsche told him "it's overblown and all because of some viral stuff on the internet" which, the guy believed but I'm sure Porsche won't be paying for it if he kills his engine. I even have Mrs. Slidebite tepidly on side because I genuinely think that they're really not going to depreciate much, and likely appreciate in the coming years. If he drops his price $3K I'd consider it, BUT I just saw this http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/calgary/1999-manual-911-c2/1174587266?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true Which, being a black coupe is more what I would want anyhow.
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Jun 23, 2016 03:01
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Too bad. I can't remember the numbers on the IMS failure, but it was high enough that I'd definitely be concerned, and if they were already doing the trans I'd be choked that they didn't do the IMS as well. That coupe is a pretty solid looking 996. I'd agree with you that coupe > cab.
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Jun 23, 2016 03:31
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I got a hold of the dude with the black 996 and he took a photo of the Porsche inspection report so dude is honest which is nice. Nothing huge, but lots of little things. Biggest is probably all 4 shocks/struts, possible rod ends, alternator not putting out full amps, something about the headlight being "burnt" or something and the steering wheel not centered. Sounds like it was owned by someone who couldn't afford upkeep Don't. Know. e: Hood struts, not suspension struts so not as big of a deal. Biggest mechanical issues are some play in rod ends, needs a battery and alternator not doing full amps. I'm a little scared but the prospect of 911 ownership is pretty appealing. slidebite fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 04:59
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I suggest you hunt down the March 2015 issue of GT Porsche (a little googling should net you a pdf) as it has one of the best detailed run downs of the issues the M96 and M97 engines can face. This article shows the magazine cover. These engines are a little counter-intuitive as you want the owners to be those who actually used them for their intended purposes (re: drive the poo poo out of it) and not those who drove it .5 miles to work round trip on weekdays. He likely didn't have an IMS retro fix done because A) they're expensive and B) if it hasn't happened after 17 years and 113km, it's very unlikely to happen.
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Jun 24, 2016 22:46
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Thanks very much, found a legit online source for that mag and read the article you mention. Fairly interesting. Seems the worst issue is scoring and that the early 996s are pretty much immune. I'd still be likely to do the IMS preventatively on a clutch job, but it's good to know. In other news, saw that black 996. And it looks really good. It has an honest 112K on it, but aged very well and the interior is almost spotless. The upgraded "sport" seats are much nicer than the standards and the car seemed really tight. Pretty minimaist with factory upgrades other than the seats and high end OEM stereo (yay for late 90s CD head units). But everything it does have all works, climate control, cruise, original stereo, everything. The Porsche PPI which he got on his own ($450) highlighted only a few problems. Most serious of which include the alternator which is not pushing out full amps, and some chuckle-gently caress installed some aftermarket HIDZ or something and burn the inside headlight lens, new battery needed and a couple of genuinely not huge things (hood support struts) but the rest of the car is very clean. Not as clean on the underside as that ex-southern US cabriolet but nothing a good clean up couldn't fix. No oil leaks I could see and not burning anything. I might be making an offer on this car. It's pretty much exactly what I want.  
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Jun 25, 2016 01:24
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Yeah. e: What do you think a realistic knock-off for asking price for the alternator and headlight lenses (inside part of lens, not the outside) would be? I'd also want to do the water pump/flush as he said he hasn't done it himself. $2-3K?
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Jun 25, 2016 01:34
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slidebite posted:Yeah. The headlight lenses in those cars are not replaceable; it's all one unit and they're $$$$$$$, even used. Brand new they're $2-3k Canadian each from Porsche, and used probably at least $5-600 each (after shipping, duty and exchange rate) off of eBay or elsewhere.
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Jun 25, 2016 01:49
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Good to know. I see a set of left/right on ebay for $350 so that might be something to consider. I've got my US box and it's less than 1 hr away so that's good.. but a good $$ point if nothing else.
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Jun 25, 2016 01:56
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MrChips posted:The headlight lenses in those cars are not replaceable; it's all one unit and they're $$$$$$$, even used. Brand new they're $2-3k Canadian each from Porsche, and used probably at least $5-600 each (after shipping, duty and exchange rate) off of eBay or elsewhere. 
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Jun 25, 2016 02:04
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slidebite posted:Yeah. Actually they can, you have to find the right guy to do it though. Dealers don't want to do it, but do some research for headlight restoration in your area.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:19
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Just to be clear, it's not the outside part that flows with the body, it's the vertical "lens" underneath it immediately next to the bulb. I haven't been able to find that "lens" with my short amount of searching either. An ebay used assembly might be the best way to go.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:21
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slidebite posted:Just to be clear, it's not the outside part that flows with the body, it's the vertical "lens" underneath it immediately next to the bulb. I haven't been able to find that "lens" with my short amount of searching either. An ebay used assembly might be the best way to go. It's one assembly that is sealed and actually glued in some parts that pops out containing the bulbs and lenses with socketed connectors on both side, think quick change lights for Le Mans racing.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:25
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