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Karl Barks posted:I think I may have mixed my D-76 developer wrong. I poured the mix into 3 liters of heated water and stirred, and then put those into mason jars. At the time I think I figured you would add the water to get it to 3.8 liters when you do the actual developing. Thinking about it now, that doesn't make sense. Is this batch ruined? If you haven't taken from that stock yet, just go ahead and pour from the jars back into your mixing bucket, then add the remaining 0.8 L of cold water. It's important you pour it all back into a single mixing container, to avoid problems of adding different proportions of water to each storage container. The packet is supposed to make 1 gallon of stock, i.e. you end up with those 3.8 L after the initial mixing. That is then the "stock" solution, which you can then either use as-is, or dilute further before each use. If you use it diluted, you take just the amount of stock you need for that development and dilute it. Diluted developer keeps much worse. If you don't add the remaining 0.8 L of water to your stock, you'll just have an excessively strong developer, which may be hard to predict the working of.
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Jun 14, 2016 22:24
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I got my first two rolls of Ektar 100 developed and holy poo poo I love this film so much. I won't be able to post scans until I get home though, my computer doesn't have a CD drive so I have to steal my mom's to put them on a USB key. Also I have one picture that I can't tell if I hosed something up completely or if it's a double exposure but it looks cool as hell either way.
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Jun 14, 2016 22:30
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nielsm posted:If you haven't taken from that stock yet, just go ahead and pour from the jars back into your mixing bucket, then add the remaining 0.8 L of cold water. Okay thank you, this is very helpful. Karl Barks fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Jun 14, 2016 |
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Jun 14, 2016 22:33
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 Puppy by Matt Philpott, on Flickr  Butts by Matt Philpott, on Flickr Huxley fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Jun 20, 2016 |
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Jun 17, 2016 06:04
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Paperhouse posted:So I got some Tri-X with the idea of pushing it to 1600 - if I do this, am I still going to be able to get decent pictures in daylight at all? Or should I not really try You should be able to, you will just have to stop down more. Pushing 400 to 1600 is only two stops, so pretty doable unless you are in direct bright sun. Not sure what that grain will look like. It's surprisingly difficult to completely gently caress up a film shot. These were hp5 pushed to either 1600 or 3200.  Untitled-7.jpg by Devin Connor, on Flickr Untitled-10.jpg by Devin Connor, on Flickr
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Jun 17, 2016 16:21
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It's been a long time since I toyed with developing film. When you're pushing stops during development do you just double the time in the developing agent to = another stop?
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Jun 17, 2016 16:22
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No, you look on the massive dev chart for the new dev time. Eg tri X is about 9:45 at iso 400, and about 13:15 at iso1600
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Jun 17, 2016 17:02
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Paperhouse posted:So I got some Tri-X with the idea of pushing it to 1600 - if I do this, am I still going to be able to get decent pictures in daylight at all? Or should I not really try If you have a fast shutter and a lens that closes up nicely you will be fine. My camera is good for 1/2000 and the lens stops down to f22 and I have never had an issue of note. I usually shoot tri-x 400 pushed to 1600, if I'm shooting at night (which is most of the time) I usually meter at 800 to overexpose but still push to 1600 because otherwise everything is too black and not recoverable. Tri-X will deal with all kinds of poo poo. Your metering can be a several (2-4) stops off in any direction and if you're using a decent film scanner you will recover a perfectly salvageable image, with more or less contrast depending on how close you are. Tri-X 400 at 1600 has reasonably good shadow detail but blows out easily for me, so err to underexposed if in doubt in the sun. This is why Kodak says you can shoot Tri-X 400 at 800 without changing film dev times.
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Jun 17, 2016 20:57
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I have a Minolta SR-T102 and a SR-T201. I bought an essentially mint condition Minolta 100 mm macro lens (labeled as auto bellows). It is my understanding that I need to get bellows and rails for it (as it has no focusing ability of its own). I see these two things listed on keh; can anyone confirm these are what I need? https://www.keh.com/shop/minolta-manual-focus-blws-iii-sr-665550.html https://www.keh.com/shop/minolta-manual-focus-focus-rail-auto-bellows-i-bellows-iii-693725.html
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Jun 19, 2016 07:36
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Choicecut posted:I'm either a dumbass (most likely) or the Nikon FM craigslist find I posted a few pages back is a bust. I shot a roll of film while I was out in Phoenix for work and it came out blank. I haven't got the negatives back yet, but thedarkroom.com site just says "the roll of film submitted is blank or did not produce any images". I swear I had the film placed correctly and it was advancing. I checked the shutter and can see it opening up on bulb to 1/250, but beyond that I can't tell. I was shooting 1/500 most of the time cause it was super bright out there. Any other things I can check? I wasted another roll this morning on stupid poo poo and will send it in. Again, it seems to be working ok as far as I can tell. I left the back open for 5 advances just to see the film moving, which it was. I was finally about to shot some film through that SR7 I picked up a while back and had the exact same problem as you. Wasn't sure if it was advancing either, or I didnt advance it enough before shooting. I'm running that cheap fuji color stuff from Walmart because I could make it to the local camera shop. I also got one of those battery adapters for the light meter, but When I flick the switch on the bottom the dial doesn't move, has anyone had this? I read something about a contact that might be shorting in the housing.
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Jun 20, 2016 03:21
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Comrade Red posted:Stuff My FM is actually a shutter issue. If I work the upper shutter curtain a bit I can get it to work properly on fast shutter speeds, but the issue comes back quickly. A friend gave me a good deal on his FA, so I gave up on the FM. I'm guessing it's due to gunk or something and a CLA would probably fix it, but it's not worth the time or money to me. Choicecut fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Jun 20, 2016 |
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Jun 20, 2016 03:45
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Edit: Found this up next on youtube after the instructional video I watched. 20x24 polaroid camera. Insane. Speaking of the 20x24 Studio, they have announced that they are closing by the end of next year. Book it if you want it.
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Jun 21, 2016 01:02
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Demon_Corsair posted:
yo I like this a lot 
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Jun 21, 2016 15:37
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Any idea what the black wispy things are on the left? Did a stand development with Rodinal.  Emily by roy.richeson, on Flickr
strong coffee fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jun 22, 2016 |
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Jun 22, 2016 22:18
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 Untitled by Drew Davis, on Flickr
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Jun 22, 2016 23:05
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Giving the vintage Nikon another go. Friend sold me an extra FA he had with 50mm F2 for 75 bucks.  Nikon FA - New Addition by Eli J, on Flickr What do you guys think I can get out of the chrome Nikon FM I've given up on. Shutter is intermittent on 1/500 and 1/1000. I was thinking maybe 40 bucks with a 50mm 1.8 E series that has a sticky focus ring? Choicecut fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 00:30
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It's funny. I sent my FE2 off for repair (it's in basically mint condition except for a single crinkled shutter blade) and it's costing me as much to get it fixed as I paid to buy it. Not exactly cheap. In the meantime, I bought a perfect N2000 / F301 for $25. It's amazing what a plastic top plate and the necessity of AAA batteries will do to the valuation of a perfectly capable manual focus camera. Grey Knight posted:Any idea what the black wispy things are on the left? Did a stand development with Rodinal. Uh, those were obviously in the latent exposure. Your subject is looking at them. Probably just ghostly apparitions.
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Jun 23, 2016 02:22
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Ive been getting back into shooting film lately. I used to be able to pick up 10 rolls of Chinese emulsions like Shantou ERA 100 and Lucky SHD off eBay for like a buck a roll but I can't seem to find them anymore. Whatever happened to them? Are there any other cheap emulsions floating around?
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Jun 23, 2016 05:39
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Uh, those were obviously in the latent exposure. Your subject is looking at them. Damnit, I always knew my house was haunted. Its also expired film so I may just chalk it up to that.
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Jun 24, 2016 18:12
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Moving my questions over here so I'm not making GBS threads up the Landscape thread.Choicecut posted:Right on. I was about to dive right in with color development, so glad I asked. Do you think those developer starter kits are a good way to go or do you guys recommend something different?
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Jun 25, 2016 00:39
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You can get cheaper b&w film from freestyle photo under the arista name. I think the 400 speed one is just rebranded tri-x. As far as developing goes, if you made it through high school chemistry you should be fine. Color is about the same difficulty but you need to keep track of the temperature and how many rolls have been thrugh the chemicals.
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Jun 25, 2016 00:50
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Everybody says B&W is easier, but only because it's more forgiving, more accessible, and cheaper. But in addition to every type of film having its own characteristics, you can also mix up different kinds of developers and development techniques that will give you different amounts of contrast, grain structure, grain size, etc. Not to mention that development times are different for every combination of film and developer. There's a million places to start so you just have to pick one and stick with it for a while, but then you'll have lots of room to experiment. Color development is more sensitive to time, temperature, and the chemicals are more expensive, have shorter shelf life, and may be impossible to acquire depending where you live. But the process is identical between all film types and brands of chemicals. Scanning and color correcting is also a huge pain in the rear end.
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Jun 25, 2016 00:56
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Sounds like B&W is where I should start for sure and move to the color stuff later. Surprisingly, I did pass chemistry in high school and even made it through college with a successful career so far. My momma so proud! That being said, I'll probably gently caress this up. hahah. Looking at what I need to buy, I would guess something like this for the equipment: AP PHOTO GROUP Darkroom Labokit with Classic Developing Tank http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...2C&Q=&A=details Developer: Ilford Ilfosol-3 Film Developer for Black and White Film (500ml) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/568019-REG/Ilford_1131778_Ilfosol_3_Film_Developer_for.html Stop Bath: Ilford Ilfostop Stop Bath (500ml) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/169348-REG/Ilford_1893870_Ilfostop_Stop_Bath_500ml.htmlKBID=1439&BI=1136 And Fixer? Ilford Rapid Fixer (Liquid,1 Liter) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/253199-REG/Ilford_1984262_Rapid_Fixer_Liquid_1_Liter.htmlKBID=1439&BI=1136 Am I on the right track? I have a subscription to Safari Books Online, are there any books I should read? Wish I would have taken a photography class in high school!
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Jun 25, 2016 01:21
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You don't need anything in that darkroom kit except for the tank. If you don't have a completely light tight room in your house, you'll need a film changing bag to use when putting your film into the tank. Once the film is in the tank, you can do everything else in daylight. You'll also need some chemical storage bottles, funnels, clips to hang your film, and a thermometer
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Jun 25, 2016 01:26
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BANME.sh posted:You don't need anything in that darkroom kit except for the tank. If you don't have a completely light tight room in your house, you'll need a film changing bag to use when putting your film into the tank. Once the film is in the tank, you can do everything else in daylight. You'll also need some chemical storage bottles, funnels, clips to hang your film, and a thermometer Oh yeah, that kit looks like it's more for developing and making prints. I hosed up and I haven't even bought the poo poo yet. haha. Tank, bag, bottles, funnels, clips and thermometer. What are you guys using to convert the negatives into a digital image?
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Jun 25, 2016 01:31
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Choicecut posted:Oh yeah, that kit looks like it's more for developing and making prints. I hosed up and I haven't even bought the poo poo yet. haha. Tank, bag, bottles, funnels, clips and thermometer. Film scanner.
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Jun 25, 2016 01:35
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HC-110, Ilford rapidfix is probably all you need for chemicals. HC-110 is the easiest and cheapest film dev you can use.
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Jun 25, 2016 01:40
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Like an Epson Perfection V600? haha this is adding up quick. I might have to hold off for a week or two cause I'm about to buy another mirror-less this weekend.
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Jun 25, 2016 01:42
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ansel autisms posted:HC-110, Ilford rapidfix is probably all you need for chemicals. HC-110 is the easiest and cheapest film dev you can use. Rodinal is pretty cheap and easy too. As for fixer I bought Freestyle's generic fixer and it worked fine for both film and paper.
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Jun 25, 2016 01:43
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Check Craigslist for older generations of Epsons. I got my 3200 for scanning 4x5 and 120 for $75 a few years ago.
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Jun 25, 2016 01:57
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Pham Nuwen posted:Rodinal is pretty cheap and easy too. Rodinal has definitely caused me more issues than HC-110. For example, developing Fuji HR-U sheets (X-ray, a dumb idea already, I know) gives bizarre circular spots, even with rotary development. HC-110 has never let me down. You can always do stand with it at super low dilutions.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:01
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ansel autisms posted:Rodinal has definitely caused me more issues than HC-110. For example, developing Fuji HR-U sheets (X-ray, a dumb idea already, I know) gives bizarre circular spots, even with rotary development. HC-110 has never let me down. You can always do stand with it at super low dilutions. I just watched a video on youtube and the guy used a patterson tank, changing bag, HC-110 for the developer, water for the stop bath, and something called tf4 for the fixer. It surprisingly looks much easier than I thought. The hardest part is going to be getting the film on the spool while in the bag.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:19
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Choicecut posted:I just watched a video on youtube and the guy used a patterson tank, changing bag, HC-110 for the developer, water for the stop bath, and something called tf4 for the fixer. It surprisingly looks much easier than I thought. The hardest part is going to be getting the film on the spool while in the bag. Sacrifice a roll and practice it in daylight and then with the lights off and check your work.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:27
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ape posted:You can get cheaper b&w film from freestyle photo under the arista name. I think the 400 speed one is just rebranded tri-x. Arista Premium 400 used to be Tri-X, but it's no longer available. I believe the Arista EDU 400 is Fomapan.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:50
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GrAviTy84 posted:Sacrifice a roll and practice it in daylight and then with the lights off and check your work. Yeah this, I spent a while just spooling and unspooling my sacrificial roll of film while watching TV. You'll want to do the actual loading of the film onto the reel in a cool and dry place if possible, assuming you're using a darkbag. My hands start to sweat very quickly in there, and the humidity makes it extremely hard to load the film on the reel. So don't get nervous, don't get frustrated, just remember you can stuff it all into the dev tank and come back to it later if you have to.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:53
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I had the hardest time with getting all the chemicals to the same temperature and staying there, but I've also only done it twice. I'm using D-76 which I think is pretty standard for tri-x.
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Jun 25, 2016 04:16
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Choicecut posted:I just watched a video on youtube and the guy used a patterson tank, changing bag, HC-110 for the developer, water for the stop bath, and something called tf4 for the fixer. It surprisingly looks much easier than I thought. The hardest part is going to be getting the film on the spool while in the bag. I had problems with this the first couple of times. Now I use the tool to pull the leader back out of the exposed roll, cut the leader, begin to thread one roll on to each reel, turn the lights off, and pull the strip through the reel about 1/2 - 3/4 revolution so it doesn't jam then spin the remainder on. Once I reach the end of the roll I rip it off by hand. gently caress opening the canister and pulling the whole roll out at once, it's a loving nightmare. I enjoy film but the color correction and scanning make me not want to touch it anymore. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Jun 25, 2016 |
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Jun 25, 2016 07:23
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Do any of you guys use an immersion circulator meant for sous vide cooking to maintain temperature? Or do they not go low enough? Seems like a good solution to the problem of maintaining temp.
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Jun 25, 2016 07:40
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The one people use are aquarium heaters I think, I've alway just used a sink of hot water
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Jun 25, 2016 07:46
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BlackMK4 posted:gently caress opening the canister and pulling the whole roll out at once, it's a loving nightmare. I just carefully rewind when all the film is exposed until I hear/feel the leader leave the take up spool, then I stop. The first few times I opened the back in the dark to check but now I don't need to. It doesn't take any tool and works pretty well, at least on my MEs, you just have to be careful not mixing it with fresh film.
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Jun 25, 2016 07:47
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