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As I mentioned in s previous post, I bought a 05 Kia Spectra for my daughter. Replaced the downstream O2 sensor so it would pass emissions (eff you state of Washington). Now it's throwing a P0507 code, which is high idle RPM. I did some research and as most of you probably know that can be be caused by a variety of things. Any suggestions/tips/ best practices on troubleshooting this would be much appreciated.
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Jun 15, 2016 01:21
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| # ? May 15, 2024 08:01 |
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Take your IAC and spray with carb cleaner. Might be gunked up over time. Also, pull the plugs. Kia/Hyundai like to burn off spark plug gaps fast it seems from experience, regap or replace as you feel.
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Jun 15, 2016 01:48
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Hi thread. 89 cougar as always. A couple years ago the left third of my dash cluster went dark. It was still usable, just dim, and tearing into the dash isn't included in the haynes manual I have, so I left it alone until today. Let the bad decisions begin! Got to the instrument cluster, and there's a long light board with six bulbs on it. I swap the leftmost pair with the rightmost pair to see if the dead spot moves with the bulbs or not - put it back and none of them light up. gently caress. At this point I do what I probably should've to begin with and get the multimeter out to check the bulbs. All six (including the four that had been working up until I went and hosed with it) are dead. I also realize the key is on and the plugs into the back of the cluster have had power the entire time I've been plugging and unplugging. gently caress. I went and got six bulbs and replaced the entire set - with the key off this time - and everything lights up beautifully. Is it likely I toasted the first set by working on them with the car on? Would it be worth the time and money to find LED versions of these bulbs to eliminate burnouts - and the resulting dashboard surgery - entirely? As far as I know these are the factory bulbs from 89 so it's not a HUGE problem so far - but still.
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Jun 16, 2016 03:02
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Eh, it's difficult to find LED bulbs that have the same throw pattern. The only reason most dash lighting solutions work is because bulbs have a 360 point source throwing light out everywhere. Get ready for an uneven, dim, flickering or non-dimming dashboard if you switch. Now, a custom solution with LED tape and a PWM dimmer converter could work, but is it worth it?
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Jun 16, 2016 03:19
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Anything beyond a direct fit replacement is  , I only even consider it due to the butt-pain involved with getting in there to replace them.
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Jun 16, 2016 03:25
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It is highly unlikely you damaged anything by plugging and unplugging the dash with the car keyed on. The new bulbs should last a long time, so I'd call it good.
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Jun 16, 2016 03:31
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The old bulbs were very likely hanging on to life by a very thin thread; moving them broke what little was left of the filaments. The original bulbs lasted for, what, 27 years? There's a pretty good chance (read: almost 100%) that the new bulbs will outlive the car, if you used decent ones. For future reference, you really shouldn't plug stuff in/unplug stuff with the key on, but on an 89 Ford, it's highly unlikely that anything will be hurt. Stuff new enough to use some kind of data bus could be damaged.
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Jun 16, 2016 04:01
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I posted earlier about buying a used 1999 Subaru Legacy Sedan from my aunt and I did that and it's pretty cool. It's got some wonky bits to it and I had a few questions about it (please bear in mind I have first car paranoia/anxiety so these probably are/might be really dumb): #1 The fuel gauge seems a bit slow. I'm not sure if this is going to be a problem yet or not but when I bought the car it had 1/4 tank of gas. I refilled it and it took the gauge a while to go to full and it stayed there for a while. It's down to about 3/4 of a tank after driving ~135 miles. The gas mileage is ~22mpg or so from what I've read (I assume it's probably less than that) so I think it's probably lower than it indicates. I'm going to wait until I have to refill it to make a judgment on whether this is an issue or not but I was wondering if there's anything I can do or should look out for in the mean time. Is it a bad idea to keep a small gas can filled up in my trunk as a backup in case it's actually a problem? I'm talking a real small one full of gas sitting in my trunk in 90-100+ Fahrenheit temperatures. #2 The stereo is really old and I was wondering how difficult it would be to replace it. It works just fine and I'm not really one of those guys who needs a badass sound system in his car but what is annoying is that I can't connect my phone to it without one of those cassette adapters. I have an old one that I'm using but the other problem is that my phone is a piece of poo poo and can't hold that much music and I don't have a mp3 player that I can use instead. It's not like I desperately need to replace it or anything, I'm just curious about the difficulty of doing so. I've got a wireless card reader that I can use, however it would be nice to just plug in a SD card with my music or something like that and not have to worry about it. Is there a thread on this stuff and would it cost me a lot to replace it? If it's a pain in the rear end or really complicated/expensive then I won't worry about it, just thought I'd ask since I'm asking dumb questions anyways. #3 I'm 25 and this is my first car so I don't want to get screwed over on insurance. I got hosed on my first smartphone plan because I was ignorant and thought things were good when they weren't and I don't want that to happen again. I haven't been in a wreck for a long time. I got in one when I think I was 16 or 17, maybe 18 I don't really remember as it was a while ago and it was the only one I've been in. I've also only gotten one speeding ticket that was a year or two ago. A few parking tickets from my college but I don't think those count against my license. Is there an insurance thread and how do I make sure I'm not getting hosed over for my general naivety and ignorance? #4 Is there a general car maintenance thread? I don't know anything about cars but my friend who is big into fixing up cars told me to ask about various parts and belts and I looked them up and the parts seemed to be pretty cheap while the labor estimates ran a couple hundred dollars. I took a look at the engine and it seemed like it probably was pretty easy to access but the extent of my experience is playing Car Mechanic Simulator 2015 and 2014 a bunch and the most I've gleaned from that is what the parts maybe look like and the names of some of them. In other words, I'm completely inexperienced. I want to learn how to fix problems should I come across them so having some learning material would be useful and good. #5 When should I replace my tires? I've lived a spoiled driving life where I haven't really had to pay attention to my tires since my parents would handle it. Since I've finally grown up and graduated college and done what my friends and peers did a decade ago and bought my first car, I need to know what to look out for and when I should replace them as well as where to get the tires. I luckily can change a tire as I've had to do that in the past and it really isn't difficult. Please assume (if you haven't already) that I'm a complete loving moron and can't tell the difference between a new tire and a destroyed tire. #6 How the gently caress do I clean the headlights? I figure that's enough questions for now and I'll start lurking AI more since I know for sure all of my questions are answered in some thread somewhere in here. I just thought I'd ask in here since I asked about buying the car earlier in the thread. I really like the car and aside from a few weird issues and super minor issues like the only cupholder being broken (I've gotta figure something out for that), I genuinely think it's a fine car. I took a few pics earlier today of it if anyone wants to look at the body (I haven't gotten a new license plate for it yet)
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Jun 16, 2016 04:36
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Cowman posted:I posted earlier about buying a used 1999 Subaru Legacy Sedan from my aunt and I did that and it's pretty cool. It's got some wonky bits to it and I had a few questions about it (please bear in mind I have first car paranoia/anxiety so these probably are/might be really dumb): 1. Totally normal, fuel gauges are laughably slow and inaccurate on cars that old and the little marks have little to no relation to how full the tank actually is. 2. Yes. 3. Pass, I'm not in your country. 4. This forum and this thread in particular are goddamned gold for learning car stuff. My advice is to start off super basic and learn to change the oil yourself and maybe the brakes. People here will happily spoon feed you the appropriate instructions, you just need a more specific question. 5. When they're down to the wear bars, when they're around five years old (less if you live in a snowy/desert hellhole) or when you've destroyed them via burnouts, kerb crashing etc. 6. Go to your local auto store, ask the man for headlight polish, follow the instructions on the bottle.
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Jun 16, 2016 05:14
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I certainly can't answer everything, but... #1 - how much do you like migraines and reeking of gas? No. Fill it (the car) up until the pump shuts off once. Reset the trip odometer. Drive 150-200 miles. Fill up again. Divide the miles you drove by the gallons that went in. Then use Google to figure out how large your fuel tank is. #2 - replacing the stereo should be dead easy on that car. Head over to crutchfield.com - plug in your car's info. If you drop $100+ on a head unit, they usually throw in mounting kits and wiring harnesses for free. You usually need basic hand tools and some crimpers. #5 - look between the tread of the tires. Look enough and you'll find a bar that sticks up a bit (if you can't see it, run your finger between the treads about halfway around the tire). Once the tread is even with that, the tires are considered to be done. Also, if you have visible cracking between the tread, it's time for new tires (some cracking on the sidewall is acceptable). Since you're driving an AWD car, you really need to replace all 4 tires at the same time. You can also find the date of manufacture somewhere on the sidewall - you don't want to be driving on anything more than 7 years old as a general rule. edit: damnit, beaten.
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Jun 16, 2016 05:18
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My car needs its rear windshield replaced(old one shattered in an accident). I'm in the UK, and am shopping around. The local shops don't do glass- the only place I can find is called Autoglass, and a few similar ones; they drive around in a truck? and come to you to replace the glass. They get medicore reviews; what's the best option?
Dominoes fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Jun 16, 2016 |
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Jun 16, 2016 05:47
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I hosed up a spark plug change by not clipping in the last ignition coil fully. The engine started up, then stopped after a few seconds (it's a hybrid) with lots of warning lights. Threw a code for that cylinder. Fixed it, cleared the code, test drove normally. Any permanent damage done?
Carabus fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jun 16, 2016 |
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Jun 16, 2016 06:26
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You might have shortened the catalytic converter's life by a mile or two, nothing serious.
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Jun 16, 2016 06:34
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Carabus posted:I hosed up a spark plug change by not clipping in the last ignition coil fully. The engine started up, then stopped after a few seconds (it's a hybrid) with lots of warning lights. Threw a code for that cylinder. Fixed it, cleared the code, test drove normally. Any permanent damage done? No, a little bit of gas in your catalytic converter; nothing to write home about.
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Jun 16, 2016 06:34
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Gorilla Salad posted:Smoke coming out of vents Quoting myself because I was able to find the cause - pine needles  I park a fair distance away from any trees, but we've been having crazy winds for the past couple of weeks and it seems that every single pine tree has managed to precision hit the air intakes at the top of my bonnet and jam them full of needles. So, after some considerable work with a vacuum and a leaf blower and taking half the dashboard apart, things will hopefully be fine. However, now I'll have to work out a way to stop more needles from clogging my vents. I'm thinking mosquito netting glued onto strips of magnets. Ugly, but it should hold.
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Jun 16, 2016 14:36
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Dominoes posted:My car needs its rear windshield replaced(old one shattered in an accident). I'm in the UK, and am shopping around. The local shops don't do glass- the only place I can find is called Autoglass, and a few similar ones; they drive around in a truck? and come to you to replace the glass. They get medicore reviews; what's the best option? These places make up the bulk of windshield replacement companies in the US too. There's nothing inherently bad about them, and in a lot of places they're the only option. I've used them before and they're ok. There are different qualities of glass though...OE is better but often more expensive. I've only replaced one rear windshield...expect it to be pricey, especially if you have defrost/defog/whatever. IIRC I paid about twice the cost of a front windshield.
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Jun 16, 2016 16:22
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I've got a 2015 Honda Fit (standard model, 5" radio screen), and while I'm pretty satisfied with the car itself the radio, specifically the USB interface, is dogshit. 1) It doesn't respect directory structure, it just takes every folder it finds that contains music files and puts it in a big list. 2) It lists these folders in a seemingly random order. Not alphabetical, not chronological, it's like it re-reads the memory stick every time I plug it in, but in a random order or something. 3) Just noticed today it's also apparently an 8-bit system because it can't read more than 255 files in a single folder... 4) It doesn't even scroll the song titles when they're too long, just displays the first X characters and that's all you get. So I'm looking around for a replacement I can install to fix all that, but I've never replaced a car radio before so I had a few questions: Any general recommendations for 5" screens that can read MP3 tags/album art and display it while a file plays? Is there a good resource online to search by make/model for compatible radios? So far everything I'm seeing on crutchfield.com is text-only displays. What are the chances I'll be able to keep my steering wheel controls? Not a deal-breaker but would be convenient. If I do end up getting a replacement I'd probably take it somewhere to have it professionally installed, worth it?
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Jun 16, 2016 18:22
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Takes No Damage posted:I've got a 2015 Honda Fit (standard model, 5" radio screen), and while I'm pretty satisfied with the car itself the radio, specifically the USB interface, is dogshit. 1) Pretty common. What happens if you make playlists? Humor me. 2) Is it random or deterministic based on FS DENTRY order on the stick? As in, every time you plug it in without having made any changes to the stick it shows up in the same order, but if you do anything to the stick it picks a new, potentially different order? You're almost certainly going to be taking a step backwards replacing that head unit without a considerable monetary investment, if something even exists on the market.
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Jun 16, 2016 19:28
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Takes No Damage posted:I've got a 2015 Honda Fit (standard model, 5" radio screen), and while I'm pretty satisfied with the car itself the radio, specifically the USB interface, is dogshit. This is the thread you are looking for: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3520908
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Jun 16, 2016 19:39
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Godholio posted:These places make up the bulk of windshield replacement companies in the US too. There's nothing inherently bad about them, and in a lot of places they're the only option. I've used them before and they're ok. There are different qualities of glass though...OE is better but often more expensive. I've only replaced one rear windshield...expect it to be pricey, especially if you have defrost/defog/whatever. IIRC I paid about twice the cost of a front windshield.
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Jun 16, 2016 22:21
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H110Hawk posted:1) Pretty common. What happens if you make playlists? Humor me. I don't think I can create a separate playlist based on the files, never saw anything like that in the manual at least. I *think* it does remain the same if I just unplug and plug the stick back in, I remember once it was able to continue playing a song after I removed it but then ended up not making any changes. What you describe with DENTRY sounds like a possibility at least. Uthor posted:This is the thread you are looking for: Ah thanks, I remember that thread but thought it was just for speakers and stuff, but it makes sense that new headunits would be a part of that 
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Jun 16, 2016 23:05
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Takes No Damage posted:I've got a 2015 Honda Fit (standard model, 5" radio screen), and while I'm pretty satisfied with the car itself the radio, specifically the USB interface, is dogshit. H110Hawk posted:1) Pretty common. What happens if you make playlists? Humor me. Coming in late but im gonna wager a real good guess that a lot of poo poo goes through that head unit you dont wanna gently caress with including security immobilizers and quite possibly poo poo that will void your warranty real fast. Much cheaper to just Aux in or bluetooth (if you can) with an iphone or something. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jun 17, 2016 |
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Jun 17, 2016 01:05
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Honda immobilizers are part of the engine computer. OP will lose the factory backup camera with an aftermarket stereo, according to Crutchfield. The worst Honda could do is void the warranty for the infotainment system, they can't void the warranty for the entire car because the stereo was replaced. Though I do agree that it would make more sense to just use aux in or bluetooth.
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Jun 17, 2016 07:04
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My Honda is part of that damned Takata airbag recall and it's been months since I got an airbag ordered at the dealership.  If I go to another dealer, will I be able to trade in that Honda even for a reduced price and buy a different car, or are three cars with bad airbags absolutely worthless until the airbags are replaced? (The Honda dealer will happily take my car as a trade in for another Honda, screw that.) Worrying about my car now having greatly reduced or zero retail value is making me sick to my stomach.
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Jun 17, 2016 11:28
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Shouldn't reduce the value at all, they'll probably fix it with honda when they resell it or when it goes to auction once it makes its way to a private party they will get a note. It's a recall which means it really won't change the value at all. The dealer gets paid from honda to fix it and it costs a private party buyer nothing to fix it. Edit: Are you trading the honda in because of the recall, and are you all the sudden turned off of honda due to the recall? News flash it is more than just honda many many manufacturers used Takata and are having similar recalls. So you still have a chance of getting a takata recalled or yet to be recalled car by going to a different used brand. "The largest automotive recall in history centers around the defective Takata Corp. air bags that are found in millions of vehicles that are manufactured by BMW, Chrysler, Daimler Trucks, Ford, General Motors, Honda, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Subaru and Toyota." So you are pretty limited in choice f you want to avoid anything from a takata brand enjoy your mini, fiat, hundai or kia. It'd be like if bosch alternators were found to start Fire in a garage, there'd be a ton of brands thst you'd have to watch out for. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Jun 17, 2016 |
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Jun 17, 2016 12:26
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Cowman posted:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361353056050?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I got one of these for my 95 hooptie a month ago, it's pretty cool-no more loving with a tape adapter at least. They go on sale for $16 every few hours it seems. Takes SD cards, mp3 players through the USB, bluetooth, has an EQ and a remote.
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Jun 17, 2016 13:15
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My 2000 Honda civic (2 door) was rear-ended yesterday. The other driver's insurance company has already accepted liability. I left my car in the auto-shop's lot overnight. When I talked to the mechanic today he said he took one look at it and figured it would probably cost more to repair than the car is worth. I've never filed an insurance claim before. I don't see any reasonable way the book value of a 16 year old car (even with having put a new engine in a few years ago) isn't going to leave me paying out of pocket for a replacement vehicle. Assuming the car is declared totaled, what can I do to minimize my likely financial loss? This is in Kansas and the other driver's insurance is State Farm. I only had liability insurance on my car; in part because it was old, but I expected to continue driving it for several more years.
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Jun 18, 2016 19:18
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I mean, the value of your car is the value of your car. It should be adequate to buy a 2000 Honda Civic based on what comparable vehicles are selling for. Probably not a huge market out there for them, so it may be hard to find a comparable car.
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Jun 18, 2016 19:26
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you can also argue with them and say.. Thees are the 2000 hondas' that are for sale and are comparable to my vehicle, you need to give me X more so I can purchase one to replace mine.
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Jun 18, 2016 22:36
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Yeah, you don't have to take their first offer (and probably shouldn't, unless they offer you significantly more than a clean example would go for). Check Craigslist and eBay, have some example cars that are at least as nice as yours was pre-accident, and be prepared to argue your case. The matter is not settled until you have come to a mutual agreement on the value of the car.
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Jun 19, 2016 00:24
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Long story short; don't have AC in my car and can't get it. What's the best way to keep the cabin cool when stuck in traffic?
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Jun 19, 2016 16:58
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https://www.google.com/search?site=...056.qDfYu5T7LHs
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Jun 19, 2016 21:04
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In traffic....uh... When you're moving, those evaporative coolers work pretty okay. But it gets muggy when stopped. There are aftermarket AC solutions for nearly every car, though most of them are just the factory option that your car would have had, but in kit form. Unless you have a large vehicle that you can add a condenser to, like an RV or minibus/minivan, then you're hard up for options without going to a custom/speed shop.
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Jun 19, 2016 21:14
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Evaporative coolers also do not work, period, if you're in a humid region like the southern US. Comedy option: mini split home AC unit, with the condenser mounted on the trunk and an inverter to run everything. Hope you've got a beefy alternator! (Don't do this) It might help if you give us the short story long and explain why you can't get it.
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Jun 19, 2016 23:02
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indoflaven posted:Long story short; don't have AC in my car and can't get it. What's the best way to keep the cabin cool when stuck in traffic? Nudity and a fan.
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Jun 19, 2016 23:22
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Drinking hot tea and eating spicy food is also an alternative.
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Jun 19, 2016 23:24
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Portable a/c in backseat vented out the window would be boss
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Jun 20, 2016 02:10
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I'm going to do A/C using an LG 5000btu unit (3.5 running amps, cost a bit more than the Haier but amperage counts) along with my 2KW inverter. It will be mostly for pre-cooling the bus with it plugged into shore power, but could be used on freeway driving in full sun with the 200w panel on the roof and the alternator going full tilt. Doing the math (with DC line losses) means that if I turn my headlights on (like at night) and don't have that average 150w of extra solar means I'm running at a loss until the A/C cools the bus and starts cycling. So, pre-cool plugged in, and maybe not be AS hot during the day. Depending on how long it takes to cool, starting up mid-day will also be a no-no without shore power. I'm going to install it under the bed in my bus, on the driver's side where that cabinet door is by the valvoline bottle. I will make a crude ducting (probably using some nylon sheet I have plus butyl tape) to make sure the A/C can pull in cooling air from the top/bottom, and exhaust it out the rear into the rear driver's side wheel well, without any mixing until it's outside.  That said, without solar power or a shore line to pre-cool your car, you're going to have a bad time.
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Jun 20, 2016 02:50
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I'm looking at getting a 96 oddyssey van. It need the valve stem seals replaced. Is this possible with the head on? Or am I better off swapping its motor with the one in my accord??
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Jun 20, 2016 02:58
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| # ? May 15, 2024 08:01 |
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I think you can do the rope trick (feed rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to keep the valve in place) but you're playing a dangerous game. Also compressing the valve without access to the face is a pain in the dick on most designs.
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Jun 20, 2016 03:05
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