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Cage posted:Yeah you'll need a puller. Autozone/Advance auto will rent them out for free with $20 deposit. Mine was the same. Two hex bolts, disconnect airbag, few allen screws for the horn switches and 4 screws for the cruise control buttons. My bolt holding the wheel on was torx security, and then I want to say when I put it back together it called for 27lbs/ft. Got you, I have a torque wrench
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Jun 23, 2016 21:17
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Geoj posted:$530/month isn't going to be the result of a few speeding tickets, that's a few DUIs/wreckless operation or a string of at fault accidents territory. Or else you're getting screwed by a perfect storm of bad actuarial statistics for your car (combination of high accident/theft/ticket rates and/or disproportionate number of owners under 25), same for your garage address with your own driving record, credit, age and marital status contributing as well. $3200/yr is like $267/mo though? My insurance before I let it lapse was $275/mo. The only issue now is that they want it all upfront at once since I hosed up last time.
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Jun 23, 2016 21:17
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^ Oh, that's why it seemed so high. Usually if you're not paying month to month auto insurance is quoted in 6 month blocks. I thought they wanted $3200 for half a year, not a full year. $270/month is still high but not terrible.
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Jun 23, 2016 21:20
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Generally if your car gets repoed here's how you are super turbo hosed.. It will be sold at auction so your finance company are getting less than a dealer trade in pricing back for it, and depending on state you are still on the hook for thr balance so now your 4k under water is probably 6-10k. So now you have no car, a repo, and an open collection for 6k.. Once you pay that poo poo off you better have really nice credit habits because you will have about 2-3 years of crawling up and out of your hole. Why did you take a job for 50% when you knew you couldnt live on it?.. I guess that's an e/n question. Exhaust all options other than repo ask parents, grandparents, owe them later.. empty a 401k.. take out a personal loan and sell it for a loss..
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Jun 23, 2016 21:35
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I was sick of the toxic environment that the union I worked in created. Unpredictable lay-offs, people backstabbing and lying about everyone so they aren't the one to get laid off, corrupt union politics I won't bore you with. Add that to my opiate addicted foreman who treated me like poo poo after I refused to score him Oxycontin and it is a horrible environment to work in. I took a related job that I have always wanted to do instead but required.me to start over as an apprentice, hence the paycut. It was overall the right move for me but it will take a while to get back to where I was regarding my income.
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Jun 23, 2016 21:46
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I'm having an "I told you so" feeling, but I'm P sure it wasn't about you at all.  Wasn't there some guy that bought a new car right after getting gainful employment after a long dry streak that jumped in over his head? It's not UF (though that was a fun thread). Kind of a goon in a well situation. Maybe it was in GBS.
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Jun 23, 2016 21:52
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I don't think it was me. I got laid off like two days after I bought my new car. Those fucks knew about my plans for 2 weeks and didn't give me a heads up after being there for a year and a half.
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Jun 23, 2016 21:58
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When buying a used car, why is buying a rental car a bad idea? Everyone recommends getting a used car inspected by an independent mechanic first. My local Firestone says they can do pre-purchase inspections and charges $56 and take a little over an hour. Can I trust them to do a good job or do I need to find some sort of specialist? I know they don't have anyone who can do frame or body repairs.
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Jun 23, 2016 23:30
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Rental cars tend to be driven and treated incredibly poorly by those who rent them and accrue several years' worth of mileage in a very short amount of time. Also any maintenance done on them is questionable because the rental companies know they're getting dumped within a year or so of acquiring them. You might luck out and get one that will never have any problems, but personally I'd rather not roll the dice.
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Jun 23, 2016 23:38
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Prepurchase inspections aren't a bad idea, but there's a LOT of stuff that they can't check. Expensive stuff. Engine internals (ie was it run super low on oil) or is the transmission's lifespan cut in half because of neutral drops, etc.
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Jun 23, 2016 23:53
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I ran over what looked to be something like a steel 4x4 (like the size of the wood, it was like a foot long) on the way to pick up a bike. This was on the highway and I was waiting for the tire to give out but it didn't and I figured everything was fine as I went another 25 miles or so. As I was leaving I mentioned I better be real careful on the way home and told the guy I bought the bike from the story. He showed me my front passenger tire and the outside of the rim is bent outwards. He said I could hammer it back in, and he could be right, but this seems p dangerous to drive on. Anyway, could I just hammer it back in? Or, what will it cost to dismount my tire (assuming I can't do that myself, which I doubt) and then get it mounted again? It is a lovely 98 Malibu, but low miles, when I call I junk yard(s) do I just ask if they have a rim for my ride? Thanks guys.
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Jun 24, 2016 02:08
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Usually a severe impact like that results in the sidewall plies delaminating followed shortly thereafter by a bulge or blister forming in the sidewall. Any tire like this is terminal and needs to be replaced ASAP - it's just a matter of time before the thin outer layer of rubber pops and you experience a blowout. It's possible you got lucky, but I'm surprised you were able to hit a square piece of steel at highway speed without significant damage to the drive train and suspension.
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Jun 24, 2016 02:44
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Geoj posted:Usually a severe impact like that results in the sidewall plies delaminating followed shortly thereafter by a bulge or blister forming in the sidewall. Any tire like this is terminal and needs to be replaced ASAP - it's just a matter of time before the thin outer layer of rubber pops and you experience a blowout. Ya, I guess I was lucky for once. Gonna check the rear tomorrow, hopefully the front impact pushed whatever out of the way, then call a junk yard and get the rim and get a new tire. Thanks.
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Jun 24, 2016 03:01
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Geoj posted:Usually a severe impact like that results in the sidewall plies delaminating followed shortly thereafter by a bulge or blister forming in the sidewall. Any tire like this is terminal and needs to be replaced ASAP - it's just a matter of time before the thin outer layer of rubber pops and you experience a blowout. This. I nailed some broken wood in the highway a few weeks ago. Two flat tires, one damaged beyond repair, the other was apparently knocked off the bead - and promptly got sidewall bulges once I got air in it again. Pretty sure I bent a wheel slightly too, as I have a vibration at highway speeds that I didn't have before. If wood can do that, steel will really gently caress your poo poo up. Corleone, if you have plain steel wheels on your car, and not alloys, you can hammer the lip back easily, though ask the guys mounting a new tire to it to make sure the wheel is straight - they'll be able to tell when they balance it. If it's not straight, you'll get funky tire wear, and your car will feel like it's going side to side at low speeds (plus a vibration at highway speeds). If you have an alloy wheel, I would replace it, or at least get the wheel professionally repaired (replacement will probably be cheaper). If it's a base or LS, you'll probably have steel wheels with hubcaps; I think other trims had alloys. If you have alloys and want them to match, check Rockauto - they have reconditioned and replica wheels for ~$120. Junkyard would be cheaper.
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Jun 24, 2016 06:36
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Okay so I am officially screwed. The cheapest car insurance option we found was $3300/yr and they want it all up front. There is a zero percent chance of that happening any time soon. So instead I am just going to park the car and keep paying the loans. In the meantime I am gonna chip away at some other debts (my taxes are hosed from doing sub-contracting work) and then save up money for the insurance down payment. I am also gonna look at ways to reduce some other expenses, like switching from T-Mobile to Straight Talk which will save me $45/mo as well as the $40/mo car wash pass I won't need anytime soon.
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Jun 24, 2016 14:54
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Call your lender tell them that you are having financial troubled and see what they can do for you,they don't want the car back. They may be able to refinance it or something. Comedy option part it out to have enough for a car and insurance then let them repo it.
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Jun 24, 2016 15:16
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Okay so I am officially screwed. The cheapest car insurance option we found was $3300/yr and they want it all up front. There is a zero percent chance of that happening any time soon. So instead I am just going to park the car and keep paying the loans. In the meantime I am gonna chip away at some other debts (my taxes are hosed from doing sub-contracting work) and then save up money for the insurance down payment. I am also gonna look at ways to reduce some other expenses, like switching from T-Mobile to Straight Talk which will save me $45/mo as well as the $40/mo car wash pass I won't need anytime soon. Sell the loving thing and buy a bus pass.
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Jun 24, 2016 15:21
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Okay so I am officially screwed. The cheapest car insurance option we found was $3300/yr and they want it all up front. There is a zero percent chance of that happening any time soon. So instead I am just going to park the car and keep paying the loans. In the meantime I am gonna chip away at some other debts (my taxes are hosed from doing sub-contracting work) and then save up money for the insurance down payment. I am also gonna look at ways to reduce some other expenses, like switching from T-Mobile to Straight Talk which will save me $45/mo as well as the $40/mo car wash pass I won't need anytime soon. spog posted:Sell the loving thing and buy a bus pass. Seriously. Go to your lender, tell them your situation, tell them your intent. They would rather qualify you for a personal loan for the $4k+ that you're underwater, on a three year term at 10%APR than deal with the default process. Then you sell the car, the lender will help transfer the title, and you move on with your life paying for a loan that you have no goods to show for. I did a similar situation for different reasons after I was given a company car. Sold the car for less than I owed, but what else was I going to do? Pay insurance for a car I wasn't going to drive, and pay a loan on a depreciating car until I catch up? I figured I could lose the least money by getting rid of it quick. I owed more than you, potentially but it significantly reduced my payments and I knuckled down to get it paid off since I really didn't like having that loan. Went from about $400 in car payment to $260 in personal loan payment I think, I never made a scheduled payment since I was paying it ahead every week. edit: windows calculator tells me that $5k at 15%APR for 3 years is $173 a month.
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Jun 24, 2016 15:37
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I tried to refinance and it only would have saved me $20/mo and with a higher interest rate so that is a no go. I got a work truck so a buss pass isn't needed, I just can't do mich on the weekends. My parents have an old mountain bike I am gonna use though.
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Jun 24, 2016 16:00
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Super Aggro Crag posted:I tried to refinance and it only would have saved me $20/mo and with a higher interest rate so that is a no go. You tried through the same bank? Shop around. Find a credit union. Refi it for another 60 month term...it sucks to stretch it out, but it should noticeably lower your payments unless this is a new loan.
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Jun 24, 2016 16:21
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Super Aggro Crag posted:I tried to refinance and it only would have saved me $20/mo and with a higher interest rate so that is a no go. That's not what I said though. Get rid of the car, get a loan on the difference. Save the most money, and start over. Edit: or stay in the well. Keep in mind when you sign up for insurance one of the questions is if you have gone without insurance so it's definitely a factor in the cost.
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Jun 24, 2016 19:23
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This is a fun one. My car is a 2003 Nissan Sentra Spec-V, the one with the six speed transmission. It's got 160k miles on it. I decided to give my car a little love and overhauled the whole suspension. KYB GR2 shocks, j2 racing 1" lowering springs, new strut bearings, strut mounts, nuts, bolts, all new bushings in the control arms, new sway bar end links, new tie rod ends, and new ball joints, and I got an alignment. So basically replaced every suspension part except for the sway bar and sway bar bushings. At this point I discovered my driver's side CV axle was bad, so I replaced that too. The problem is I've still got a little clunk in the front driver's side suspension. You can notice it the most when moving slowly and turning and going over small bumps. Just sitting still and turning the wheel won't reliably cause it, nor will going over a bump every time, but if you're turning and going over a speed bump or a curb or something, you'll hear it almost every time. Turning hard enough especially to the right will usually cause it every time too. So, granted any of those things I put on could be defective. Possibly they could have been installed incorrectly, tho this isn't my first rodeo. So far the best ideas I've heard are just to check torque on everything and check the driver's side motor mount. But do any of you have any suggestions as to what else to check?
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Jun 24, 2016 20:56
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Sway bar bushings can cause that, so can sway bar end links. That's where I'd start.
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Jun 24, 2016 22:36
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some texas redneck posted:This. I nailed some broken wood in the highway a few weeks ago. Two flat tires, one damaged beyond repair, the other was apparently knocked off the bead - and promptly got sidewall bulges once I got air in it again. Pretty sure I bent a wheel slightly too, as I have a vibration at highway speeds that I didn't have before. Eh, I ran over a full loving pallet at night at 70mph. Thing exploded and all it did was cut the rear o2 sensor which probably needed replacing anyways as original with 160k miles. Also had one piece of wood to pull off the axle. TRUCK SUPERIORITY!
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Jun 24, 2016 22:55
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Are you missing a wrench that's now clunking inside your suspension? Id look at your sway bar parts and accessories.
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Jun 25, 2016 00:08
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Update to my story: The tire is bulging and the wheel is hosed. The upside is I am going to Pull A Part tomorrow and they have steel for $9.50 and alloy for 22.50, with the tire on it, they are probably garbage tires but could get lucky. If not, gonna be getting a used tire for 20 bux. And the back tire/wheel look fine so I am happy about that. All in all, much cheaper then I thought. They have 2 98's and a bunch of other Malibus so I have a good chance of finding a match! Mine is an LS, it doesn't have hubcaps, so I am guessing those are the alloys?
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Jun 25, 2016 00:29
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Almost certainly. But you should probably find the version that looks like yours rather than just placing a telephone order.
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Jun 25, 2016 00:42
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I am going tomorrow, you take the stuff off the car yourself. Maybe I will find other cool stuff while I am there!
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Jun 25, 2016 00:47
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I have a question, and I'm at my wits end here. 2002 Lexus IS300. I just bought a dash cam and a hard wire kit and an "add a circut' fuse thingy from auto zone, like this. I crimp connected the red wire to the add-a-fuse, I connected the other wire to a bolt on the car, and I took out a 10A fuse and put it in the space for it in the add-a-fuse connector, put the connector in the spot - nothing. I try this on all the 10A and 7.5A selections, nothing. I take my multimeter to the fuse areas to circuits I know work, like 'TV' or "AC', etc, and get nothing on the multimeter. I know these circuits work. So I don't know what I'm doing wrong with the wiring here. Any ideas?
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Jun 25, 2016 03:03
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Are you sure the bolt you used is actually grounded?
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Jun 25, 2016 03:23
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Godholio posted:Are you sure the bolt you used is actually grounded? Pretty sure. I know what you mean, some bolts don't actually connect to the chassis. But I did, and even tried different spots of the car in case it wasn't.
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Jun 25, 2016 03:39
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Some of your circuits aren't going to work unless they key is on, too. Finding one in a newer Chrysler can be a downright bitch because the fusebox is run directly off the loving computer.
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Jun 25, 2016 03:58
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I tried them all with the engine running.
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Jun 25, 2016 04:34
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Get a real long section of wire, use it to hook your multimeter to the battery negative, and test for continuity to your bolt. If that's good, check for voltage to the chassis side of the fuse holder. E: That add-a-fuse thing works different from how I thought. Do the things on the circuit you're plugging it into still work? Check for voltage on the wire going to your camera. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Jun 25, 2016 |
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Jun 25, 2016 05:13
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I need to bend a section of 20mm o/d round mild steel (landrover gear linkage rod). I gather that heat is the key to this and I need to heat it till it glows red. I have just tried to heat it with my butane/propane plumbers torch and can only get it to around 400C (where my IR temperature gun maxes out). I assume I need to get it to 550C to make it hot enough to glow red and be bendable? Do I have any chance of getting to this temp without an oxy/acetylene torch? how hot will I be able to get a fire to? should I buy a bag of charcoal and get it into that for 30 mins?
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Jun 25, 2016 15:00
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I think a tiger torch could do it if you got a propane tank
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Jun 25, 2016 15:05
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Hot Karl Marx posted:I think a tiger torch could do it if you got a propane tank Is that like one of these? - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/fc108-gas-torch-with-nozzles/ Ive got big bottles of both butane and propane
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Jun 25, 2016 15:09
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ya, its just a bigger propane torch, if you get one of the more closed nozzles you could probably reach 550+. I use one of the open nozzles ones at work to get a drive chuck to 400C to break down the epoxy holding the thread on. See if you can rent one at construction rental place though
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Jun 25, 2016 15:17
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Passenger side power window on my daughter's car doesn't work, whether using the switch on the passenger side or the driver door switch. So I assume that is the motor. However the power lock on the passenger door doesn't work using the passenger door switch but will work using the driver's switch or the fob. So is that either the relay or the switch?
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Jun 25, 2016 22:01
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Michael Corleone posted:Update to my story: The tire is bulging and the wheel is hosed. The upside is I am going to Pull A Part tomorrow and they have steel for $9.50 and alloy for 22.50, with the tire on it, they are probably garbage tires but could get lucky. If not, gonna be getting a used tire for 20 bux. And the back tire/wheel look fine so I am happy about that. All in all, much cheaper then I thought. They have 2 98's and a bunch of other Malibus so I have a good chance of finding a match! Mine is an LS, it doesn't have hubcaps, so I am guessing those are the alloys? I went to the Yard and took an alloy wheel but it didn't fit No returns so I am out 22.50 plus tax, I am going to take it back for the core charge though. Went to a place and they got me a used alloy and tire for 55 out the door. I read all 98's were the same size, should have written down that size. I took it right off the car, weird. Is it standard practice to charge an admission fee to junk yards? I had to pay 2 bux lol.
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Jun 25, 2016 22:51
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